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Spindle Assembly

#1

J

jeruss

Hi, Guys. I had a spindle come apart last summer. The bearings came apart. I have attached a couple of photos. I was planning on buying another spindle assembly, but I am not sure if I will be able to fit the spindle into the assembly. Is this correct? Do I need another spindle as well? Thank you for the advice.

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#2

Carscw

Carscw

jeruss said:
Hi, Guys. I had a spindle come apart last summer. The bearings came apart. I have attached a couple of photos. I was planning on buying another spindle assembly, but I am not sure if I will be able to fit the spindle into the assembly. Is this correct? Do I need another spindle as well? Thank you for the advice.
Click to expand...

If it was me I would buy the whole assembly.
Should run around $50 for this one and make sure they give you the nut that goes on the spindle some dealers like to keep the nut.

Now someone will tell you just get the bearings I say no. When the bearings start going bad they wobble and the new bearings will not fit tight in the housing.

(( racing is the only sport that you need two balls ))


#3

J

jeruss

Thank you for responding. I appreciate your advice. I could only find this assembly
SPINDLE ASSEMBLY FOR MURRAY REPL MURRAY 92574 - Lawn Mower Parts Snow Blower Parts and Small Engine Parts at WNY Small Engines

I was wondering if it looks like the spindle shaft will fit because I thought that the spindle shaft should be smooth and mine is not.


#4

S

SeniorCitizen

jeruss said:
Thank you for responding. I appreciate your advice. I could only find this assembly
SPINDLE ASSEMBLY FOR MURRAY REPL MURRAY 92574 - Lawn Mower Parts Snow Blower Parts and Small Engine Parts at WNY Small Engines

I was wondering if it looks like the spindle shaft will fit because I thought that the spindle shaft should be smooth and mine is not.
Click to expand...
The blurry pic looks as if the inner races of the bearings are stuck to the shaft . If that is true, the last time it was assembled the mechanic failed to install a spacer and that's why the bearings failed . If you can get the pulley off it can be salvaged but the remainder is scrap iron for the general non mechanics people .

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#5

Carscw

Carscw

SandburRanch said:
The blurry pic looks as if the inner races of the bearings are stuck to the shaft . If that is true, the last time it was assembled the mechanic failed to install a spacer and that's why the bearings failed . If you can get the pulley off it can be salvaged but the remainder is scrap iron for the general non mechanics people .
Click to expand...

Was my thinking when I told him to replace the whole thing would just be easier for him.

Easy way to get pulley off is put the blade on the shaft so you can remove the nut that holds the pulley on.

(( racing is the only sport that you need two balls ))


#6

J

jeruss

I had thought that the races were stuck to the spindle but wanted to make sure. I have removed the pulley. How would I get the races off of the spindle so that I can reuse the spindle. The only spindle assembly that I can find does not come with the spindle? It only comes with the housing, bearings, and spacer illustrated in the link. If I can remove the races from the spindle, I am assuming that I can just tap the spindle into the new housing. Thanks.


#7

J

jeruss

I will attach a better picture tonight of the spindle so that it is clear.


#8

Carscw

Carscw

You should be able to just tap them off.

What I do and I am sure someone will not to is I put the shaft in a vice just tight enough so the bearing can't pop threw put the nut or bolt on the shaft and hit it with a RUBBER hammer.

Or you could just look on ebay and get a new one.

(( racing is the only sport that you need two balls ))


#9

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

From the picture of the shaft. Starting at the end that the blade goes on, is the inner race of the bottom bearing, the bearings spacer, then the inner race of the top bearing. Remove those three items, and the shaft will slid into the new housing which will include both bearings and the spacer between them.

I see there is at least one broken bolt in the mandrel housing, and those can be a pain to get out, and if the drill is slightly off center when you drill it, the drill will wander into the aluminum housing and you then have a bigger problem.


#10

S

SeniorCitizen

jeruss said:
How would I get the races off of the spindle so that I can reuse the spindle. Thanks.
Click to expand...
There are a few ways depending on equipment you have. These races are a slip fit. I'd begin by placing the ( blade end of shaft ) race on an anvil ( shaft horizontal ) and popping it with a hammer while being rotated. 3 lb. hammer preferred. Avoid the spacer tubing if possible. That will often distort the race enough to come off.

If that fails then my grinder would come into play and grind a flat on the race until the wall thickness of the race was 0.010" thick and repeat step one if necessary. One of those methods will get 99 % off. A torch would be 3rd choice but usually not necessary on equipment that size.

0°F


#11

J

jeruss

Hi, Guys. I got the races off. The bottom race was somewhat rusted. Thanks so much for your help. Now I just have to order another assembly and slide in the spindle.

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#12

S

SeniorCitizen

jeruss said:
Hi, Guys. I got the races off. The bottom race was somewhat rusted. Thanks so much for your help. Now I just have to order another assembly and slide in the spindle.
Click to expand...
My local farmer's CO-OP has those bearings for $1.78 each the last I checked. The same quality you get in an assembly.

When I assemble my own I know where I stand on axial thrust that can be damaging during high speed Asian assembly methods.

To understand all this mumbo jumbo you have to understand what takes place with that internal spacer, its function and why it is just a few thousandts longer that the distance between the 2 outer race shoulder seats. There is a simple way to be sure there is no, none ( zero ) axial thrust at assembly time and also when the blade nut is torqued and I take that extra 3 minute step. Ball bearings of this caliber don't survive a natural life time with axial thrust.

All mower shaft designs don't have this spacer ( some craftsman ) but I've never seen a Murray without the spacer.

0ｰF


#13

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

SandburRanch said:
My local farmer's CO-OP has those bearings for $1.78 each the last I checked. The same quality you get in an assembly.

When I assemble my own I know where I stand on axial thrust that can be damaging during high speed Asian assembly methods.

To understand all this mumbo jumbo you have to understand what takes place with that internal spacer, its function and why it is just a few thousandts longer that the distance between the 2 outer race shoulder seats. There is a simple way to be sure there is no, none ( zero ) axial thrust at assembly time and also when the blade nut is torqued and I take that extra 3 minute step. Ball bearings of this caliber don't survive a natural life time with axial thrust.

All mower shaft designs don't have this spacer ( some craftsman ) but I've never seen a Murray without the spacer.

0ｰF
Click to expand...

But the shaft is stepped on the craftsman.


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