Spark plug gets gas fouled every cold start

I plan to do some more sanding in next couple of days need to pickup some 400 an 600. would like to get the head back on. got a link to the walboro carb.? thanks slomo
 
steves snapper said:
I plan to do some more sanding in next couple of days need to pickup some 400 an 600. would like to get the head back on. got a link to the walboro carb.? thanks slomo
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Like I mentioned, search this site for my post. If you can't find it let me know.

Get a mix grit pack of wet/dry paper at the hardware store.
 
The is the exact listing I bought. I had a 28 inch Snapper RER with the Briggs single on her. Had the Nikki Six carb stock. Click on the link below. Briggs part number is 594593.

www.ebay.com

For Carburetor 594593 591731 794572 796109 Replacement Carb | eBay

For Briggs & Stratton Replace Parts Carburetor 594593 591731 794572 796109 Carb. Replace Part#: 594593 591731 794572 796109. Fits for Briggs & Stratton Replace Parts Carburetor 594593 591731 794572 796109 Carb.
www.ebay.com


This is a video from Taryl where he did the same.



Another great one from Raley's Small Engines.

 
steves snapper said:
here's the carb I thought I needed P#593432 from my other thread
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That POS is a Nikki Six carb. Not my favorite. Buy if you like.

I had basically the same mower you got. Yours is a 30 inch deck. I had a 28" with the Walbro carb swap. Again Briggs or Chinese equivalent of 594593.
 
I'm done sanding both head an block want to reassemble the head.
what is the torque sequence on each of the 3 pass's
?forgot to take image of cleaned sanded block thanksfinished sanding head.jpgfinished sanding head I beam anvil.jpgblock before sanding.jpgcylinder head glued gasket cleaned off.jpgcylinder head glued gasket cleaned off.jpgcylinder head glued gasket.jpg
 
1.Don't lose the valve stem caps. You have the rocker arm then the valve caps on each valve stem end.
2.Block area where the head gasket sits needs cleaned better.
3.Instead of using that plate steel, use your garage door window. Talking about the single walk-in side door on most garages. If you don't have one of those use another small window at the house. Or a bathroom mirror.
4.Did you lap the valves in? Little valve grinding compound? Can you rotate the valve face with your thumb pressing hard? Now is the time to lap the valves in good.
5.Valve cover is filthy as well as all the other parts.
6.Toss the steel razor in the trash. They make better tools for cleaning soft aluminum parts.
7.Remove the air shroud pan of steel that goes around the block. It directs the air from the cooling fan. Your picture of the piston, this shroud is below the block and goes around it. Think there are two small screws holding it on. CLEAN the fins up like a new engine once this shroud is off.
 
Keep an old piece of 3/8 to 1/2 glass around to sand on. If you don't have any, have a glass shop near you cut one from a scrap piece. Will make an excellent inexpensive flat plate. You can also roll pushrods on it to make sure they are not bent.
 
slomo said:
1.Don't lose the valve stem caps. You have the rocker arm then the valve caps on each valve stem end.are talking about the 2 keepers each valve stem has that lock the retainer? I haven't removed the springs.
2.Block area where the head gasket sits needs cleaned better.
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I did clean the block of the old gasket just didn't take n image.
slomo said:
3.Instead of using that plate steel, use your garage door window. Talking about the single walk-in side door on most garages. If you don't have one of those use another small window at the house. Or a bathroom mirror.
4.Did you lap the valves in? Little valve grinding compound? Can you rotate the valve face with your thumb pressing hard? Now is the time to lap the valves in good.
Click to expand...
4. no I didn't do anything to the valves, not sure how to lap valves? I can press in on valve an attempt to rotate.
slomo said:
5.Valve cover is filthy as well as all the other parts.
6.Toss the steel razor in the trash. They make better tools for cleaning soft aluminum parts.
Click to expand...
I was very carefull an not forcefull w/ the razor blade, I believe the glue was grey prematex used for GM rear end covers. I scraped then used gasoline.
slomo said:
7.Remove the air shroud pan of steel that goes around the block. It directs the air from the cooling fan. Your picture of the piston, this shroud is below the block and goes around it. Think there are two small screws holding it on. CLEAN the fins up like a new engine once this shroud is off.
Click to expand...
would you happen to know the torque amount an sequence of the head bolts? I was planning to reuse the orginal bolts. thanks slomo
 
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