this same or similar solenoid has been in use for almost 100 years now, making it simple to diagnose when it fails. find the cheapest generic that mounts the same for a fix. good job.
SOLVED - TORO ZS5000 - nothing happening when turning ignition key...no problems the day before. (FAULTY SOLENOID)
- Thread starter I.Q.
- Start date
outdoorpowermike
Well-Known Member
A click sound is telling you that you have low voltage. Check battery voltage, under load with battery tester you should have at least 9 volts. If load test is good next test voltage with volt meter at blue wire at solenoid for at least 8-9 volts when turning key to start. If good voltage is seen on voltmeter, test for good voltage at starter. If good hit starter with hammer or rotate crankshaft to disengage starter drive. But always check for good ground connections.
I am a bit old fashion, so I would start by cleaning the battery post connections, check for good battery spark, and try it again. If that doesn't work get a screwdriver or whatever and jump the battery terminals across the solenoid to see if the starter turns. If it does, the solenoid is the problem unless the power to the solenoid from the ignition is inadequate. Using a voltmeter check the power at the solenoid when turning the key. If you get 12 volts you got 12 volts. But remember 12 volts doesn't mean anything if there are no amps. To find out get a 12 ga wire (more or less) jumper and jump the small wire terminal on the solenoid to the battery. That will by-pass the whole ignition system and charge the solenoid directly from the battery. If that doesn't work, the solenoid is bad. If that does work, there are wiring problems, bad connection somewhere allowing voltage but low amps. The hunt is on!
Thanks for all replies and suggestions.
@Gord Baker - I don't have a fresh battery, but made sure it was fully loaded by hooking it up to a battery charger and checking that it was 12+ Volts after charging. Plus, when shorting the two big poles of the solenoid, it did start and I could use the Toro without a problem (until it needed starting, again).
@bentrim - Both. So, when turned to ON, I hear the solenoid in the carburetor, and when turned to START I hear a click in the solenoid between battery and starter. But no voltage on the starter pole of the solenoid. All safety brakes and stuff work fine. Thanks for the documentation.
@Shady oak - I do not have a booster charger. Battery tested fine with voltage meter, though. (It is not that old, either. About a year or so? Two at most).
@outdoorpowermike - I have not tested the battery with the motor running, but when shorting the solenoid, I can start it. Shouldn't that mean that the battery is good? It certainly means that the starter is good, I'm happy to say.
@mcspeed - I don't know if that is what you should take away from this thread, really. I have use this particular model for some 7 years on a big, rather rough terrain without a problem. Sure, I had to replace two of the spindles and of course the cutting blades (twice), but to me that is normal wear and tear. Nothing wrong with the engine and electrical system, up until now. And I suspect changing the solenoid will solve that problem. It takes a bit of time finding out what and how to trouble shoot, which is why I am very grateful for this particular forum and the videos that are out there on youtube.
@dpscott - The safety switch on the seat should not have any influence on getting the motor to run. It serves as a safety measure for the PTO only. (And it is still working properly).
Thanks again, folks! I'll keep you posted.
@Gord Baker - I don't have a fresh battery, but made sure it was fully loaded by hooking it up to a battery charger and checking that it was 12+ Volts after charging. Plus, when shorting the two big poles of the solenoid, it did start and I could use the Toro without a problem (until it needed starting, again).
@bentrim - Both. So, when turned to ON, I hear the solenoid in the carburetor, and when turned to START I hear a click in the solenoid between battery and starter. But no voltage on the starter pole of the solenoid. All safety brakes and stuff work fine. Thanks for the documentation.
@Shady oak - I do not have a booster charger. Battery tested fine with voltage meter, though. (It is not that old, either. About a year or so? Two at most).
@outdoorpowermike - I have not tested the battery with the motor running, but when shorting the solenoid, I can start it. Shouldn't that mean that the battery is good? It certainly means that the starter is good, I'm happy to say.
@mcspeed - I don't know if that is what you should take away from this thread, really. I have use this particular model for some 7 years on a big, rather rough terrain without a problem. Sure, I had to replace two of the spindles and of course the cutting blades (twice), but to me that is normal wear and tear. Nothing wrong with the engine and electrical system, up until now. And I suspect changing the solenoid will solve that problem. It takes a bit of time finding out what and how to trouble shoot, which is why I am very grateful for this particular forum and the videos that are out there on youtube.
@dpscott - The safety switch on the seat should not have any influence on getting the motor to run. It serves as a safety measure for the PTO only. (And it is still working properly).
Thanks again, folks! I'll keep you posted.
sgkent
Lawn Addict
you can't test a battery by just reading its voltage. You have to test it under load. That means either use a load tester, or test the voltage while it is cranking. I've seen batteries that read 13+ volts drop to 7 or 8 when they are cranked. It is the capacity of the battery that cranks the engine. Voltage is just the electrical pressure. Think of it like a garden hose. You can open it to a dribble where the water won't go six inches, put your thumb over the end of the hose to build pressure, and squirt the water 10 feet for a brief second before all the pressure is gone. Battery can have fine electrical pressure until it is used.
Thanks sgkent, That is good to know!
(Does the fact that the Toro will start when shorting the two big poles of the solenoid not kind of rule out that the problem originates from the battery, though? In that way, it is used, and if the electric "pressure" were not right, it would not start when shorting the solenoid, right?)
(Does the fact that the Toro will start when shorting the two big poles of the solenoid not kind of rule out that the problem originates from the battery, though? In that way, it is used, and if the electric "pressure" were not right, it would not start when shorting the solenoid, right?)
By what you have said 'when turned to START I hear a click in the solenoid' and when 'the Toro will start when shorting the two big poles'
this would indicate the solenoid is bad and not making the high current connection when activated. Often a solenoid failure is caused by someone trying to get by on a bad battery or bad connections. Every time the solenoid is activated a metal (usually copper) contacts the two big posts, if the battery is low the solenoid will chatter making and breaking the connection, causing the disc and contact to burn and get carboned up. eventually the carbon will not allow the disc and contacts to connect. Even normal use can cause this but it takes much longer.
this would indicate the solenoid is bad and not making the high current connection when activated. Often a solenoid failure is caused by someone trying to get by on a bad battery or bad connections. Every time the solenoid is activated a metal (usually copper) contacts the two big posts, if the battery is low the solenoid will chatter making and breaking the connection, causing the disc and contact to burn and get carboned up. eventually the carbon will not allow the disc and contacts to connect. Even normal use can cause this but it takes much longer.