**SOLVED ** ...Rider YTH21K46 won't start, won't shut down, even with new switch and new solenoid..READ
- Thread starter kingofammo
- Start date
First prove it's the switch then either get a replacement or re wire if necessary , apply 12 volts to the selonoid terminal where the ignition switch hooks up , if it kicks in , you have a bad switch or wire then go from there
Any starter switch will probably work , all you need is 12 volts supply then 12 volts in the start position , you'll need to have a kill wire as well but get there one at a time .
Any starter switch will probably work , all you need is 12 volts supply then 12 volts in the start position , you'll need to have a kill wire as well but get there one at a time .
kingofammo
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Problem SOLVED..this should be a Sticky on how to persistently follow the symptomatic clues to solve an obscure problem when all parts check good, and your readings, specs and schematics don't help....
SOLUTION : follow and investigate the observations that don't make sense , in my case : 1). that the solenoid didn't kick in when hot wired and 2). the 3 wire cable to headlights that needs only 2 wires ...
First I found the primary + wire to solenoid was hot, and the negative side was not grounded in any key position and read hot when read back to switch ..why the solenoid when hot wired wouldn't kick in...so I needed to find a ground fix for the solenoid negative ..which curiously enough I had an extra ground wire in that head light cable to solve...so following the clues I connected each of the wires to ground and BINGO the spare black wire to the headlights is actually the ground for the solenoid and the problem was solved and now everything works again.
OBSERVATION..> you can't always blindly follow the factory specs and diagrams, e.g. why would you physically wire a ground six feet away when the needed connection is only 6 inches away ??
SOLUTION : follow and investigate the observations that don't make sense , in my case : 1). that the solenoid didn't kick in when hot wired and 2). the 3 wire cable to headlights that needs only 2 wires ...
First I found the primary + wire to solenoid was hot, and the negative side was not grounded in any key position and read hot when read back to switch ..why the solenoid when hot wired wouldn't kick in...so I needed to find a ground fix for the solenoid negative ..which curiously enough I had an extra ground wire in that head light cable to solve...so following the clues I connected each of the wires to ground and BINGO the spare black wire to the headlights is actually the ground for the solenoid and the problem was solved and now everything works again.
OBSERVATION..> you can't always blindly follow the factory specs and diagrams, e.g. why would you physically wire a ground six feet away when the needed connection is only 6 inches away ??
kingofammo
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To check the connectors, slide the plug off the ign sw enough so you can see the terminals. Check the continuity between the wire side of the plug and the terminal it connects to. Should be 0 ohms. On inline connectors. push your probes into the connections from each side and verify 0 ohms. If you find a bad connection, try pushing the wire into the connector and see if it changes. Not only do the connections slide out if the tab is broke, but also become corroded. Clean with a small wire brush and carb cleaner.
So, why didn't you fix the harness damage first? Seems like an obvious starting point, and it being cut concurrent to this problem seems like it would be screaming at you . . . (or did I miss something?)
doug9694
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Perhaps the new switch is defective or the wiring is bad. The kill from the reverse is working so tie into that wire with another toggle or push button switch back to ground. Or get a wiring diagram for your model # and track and test each wire and component.