Export thread

the number on my filter that came on the mower (fastrak 60 kawasaki ft-730) is

49065-0721​

I do have more room for a much taller filter which I'd like to move to. There are so many confusing part numbers that "replace" other part numbers. Can anyone tell me a good "longer" oil filter to use for this Kawasaki ft-730 engine.

Briggs 491056 / Kohler 52 050 02 / Fram PH3614 / Stens 120-345 are four possibles. 3" OD 3" - 3-1/4" Height

a Wix 51348 or a Napa 1348 may work too

I saw something a few years ago on this subject and at that time someone recommended Fram PH3600 filters. I have been using them for the past 3 years and so far it has been good. Seems to be about double the capacity. This is on a Kawasaki FR691.

This is the replacement for the 49065-0721, it is almost 3 inches long. But is narrower on the O.D. But is said to hold same volume of oil. Anyhow, since mine is still under warranty, I will stick to Kaw filters.. (for now)..

GENUINE OEM KAWASAKI OIL FILTER PART # 49065-0724
REPLACES 49065-7010
REPLACES 49065-2078
CAN BE USED ON MOST ALL KAWASAKI ENGINES
CAN ALSO REPLACE 49065-7007

Yes I have also added a longer and larger capacity filter. Here is what I found for my Kawasaki FR691V engine.
Factory called for #49065-7007

Wix 57035 2.3" long-This is the same length as the stock filter.
Wix 51056 2.7" long
Wix 51348 3.4" long
Wix 51516 4.8" long

Here is a picture of the #51516 installed. You can see it just touches the plastic fender but has caused no problems.
I also added a factory oil cooler.


.
.
.

Well that's your opinion. Just wait until the fender mounting points break sooner than they normally do.

Actually they don't! Sometimes real life experience helps in situations like this!
.
.
.

clubairth said:

Actually they don't! Sometimes real life experience helps in situations like this!
.
.
.

Click to expand...

All I know if that mower came into my shop I would immediately inform the customer that I not responsiable for parts breakage related to changing oil or and other service work in that area.. I not paying for someone else's caused problems.

I'm all down for larger filters, when sensible, but when filters contact other parts, nah........

Those steel cans are not very thick to risk a sub 2 grand engine plus labor. Common sense should prevail here.

I went with the shorter filter on my Gravely 0-T. Short or long filter- I figure this small engine does not pump as much oil as a 4IL so it shouldn't make any difference. I would be nervous of 2 parts rubbing up agains each other. my ₵₵.

Remember that most of these engines worked fine for 30 years with no oil filter at all I feel all of this fuss about filters is 99% engineering ignorance .
It is very rare for a mower filter to be dirty enough to trip the bypass even if it has never ever been changed
I have had some cubs come in with the dirtiest oil I have ever seen, burn't to treacle yet the filters happily passed the oil and still did not create enough back pressure to trip the bypass.
As for oil coolers, well they were all the rage when I was young on motorcycles because RACE bikes had them .
Most of them actually cause damage to the engines by preventing the engine oil from getting to full operating temperature .
Small engines are fitted with coolers if they are going to be used in equipment that operates for very long times continiously like in skid steers , generators & compressors
Unless you are a commercial mower and mow 25 acres in a single session then again the oil coolers are potentially doing more harm than good unless you fit a very expensive one with a thermal bypass valve .
When I was a spotty faced teenager thus automatically knew better than the engineers at BSA I fitted a big oil cooler to my A10
I took it back because I was sure it was defective because it never got hot & was bypassing all of the oil
After the 2nd replacement, the distributor asked me to bring the bike in
He fitted a temperature gauge to my oil tank and asked me to record the temperatures .
In 3 months , it never got above 72 deg C
Full oil temperature is 80 C which is what the bypass valve is set to .
I learned a lot that month and where possible have always fitted some sort of thermometer to my oil tanks and yes the oil rarely ever gets above 85 C no matter what the air temperature is or how much I am abusing the motorcycle

Always like it when folks agonize over the "best" oil filter for their mower and "bigger is better". Millions of engines on OPE have run millions of hours without an oil pump or filter with no oil related failures. Thousands of Continental and Lycoming aircraft engines and VW car engines don't have oil filters. Use whatever helps you sleep at night.

If you are really worried about dirty oil get a centrifuge filter. With that there is a limit on effectively a spin on filter works. What matters more is the microns that they filter down to. Some the Macks I change oil the regular filter were just normally dirty but the centrifuge filter were like bricks weight wise and these filter are after the standard filter.

Any way this thread is like which oil is better threads everyone has an opinion and most are just BS.

It does matter how good of a oil filter you once the oil starts to break down it just catches most of the metal filings from that point on. It like the HG EZT I tore down yesterday the filter screen and magnet complete covered in metal filings. So the oil failed to do its job. If the oil did it job there would been very little in metal filings. Now it is a complete time.

Hammermechanicman said:

Always like it when folks agonize over the "best" oil filter for their mower and "bigger is better". Millions of engines on OPE have run millions of hours without an oil pump or filter with no oil related failures. Thousands of Continental and Lycoming aircraft engines and VW car engines don't have oil filters. Use whatever helps you sleep at night.

Click to expand...

I had a Lycoming aircraft engine on an air boat years ago. I believe it was a 160.

Ain't that the truth...

Dunrollin said:

I saw something a few years ago on this subject and at that time someone recommended Fram PH3600 filters. I have been using them for the past 3 years and so far it has been good. Seems to be about double the capacity. This is on a Kawasaki FR691.

View attachment 62703

Click to expand...

this is what i have used for the last 10 years.

Fram ? Seriously, yeoww.. Not for mine.

I prefer to use WIX which is also the same as NAPA Gold filters.
.
.
.

Wix is good.

fieldhand1 said:

this is what i have used for the last 10 years.

Click to expand...

hi, Sorry this post is longer than i had thought. i have finished the yard and blown off the deck and engine of clippings. ok, this is good. parked the mower and checked the oil and the air pre-filter. all good. the next day was moving mower to another house and when i checked the oil, i was overfull! ok,this is not normal. anyway i loaded and moved. to Toms house. before unloading i checked and the oil was ok? my little brother thinks the check valve in the oil filter has failed and oil is draining into the sump?

fieldhand1 said:

hi, Sorry this post is longer than i had thought. i have finished the yard and blown off the deck and engine of clippings. ok, this is good. parked the mower and checked the oil and the air pre-filter. all good. the next day was moving mower to another house and when i checked the oil, i was overfull! ok,this is not normal. anyway i loaded and moved. to Toms house. before unloading i checked and the oil was ok? my little brother thinks the check valve in the oil filter has failed and oil is draining into the sump?

Click to expand...

#1: Check the oil when the engine is stone cold.
#2: Does the oil have a gasoline smell?
I doubt that the Anti Drain Back Valve has failed.

If you have room for the filter to clear the engine shroud and any hydraulic hoses 49065-0721 and 49065-0724 will work. I use the 49065-0724 on most all the Kawasaki engine besause it is easier to get off and put on.

MParr said:

#1: Check the oil when the engine is stone cold.
#2: Does the oil have a gasoline smell?
I doubt that the Anti Drain Back Valve has failed.

Click to expand...

ok, thanks for the reply. cold-cold, as with the kaw. you do not turn dipstick on threads. I have a line on the dipstick top that is horizontal with the engine. it is at the top of the threads. if i turn a 1/4 turn to the left, ccw the stick will drop down a small amount, then remove and check, its overfull, then start and run wot. then slow and shutdown. check it 3 minutes later oil is good. i change every 40 hours and every other change put on a new filter. i will check in the am. then mow Toms place, 1.75 hours and dump old oil and add a new 3600 filter that has been filled with mobile 1 oil, after refilling will see how it goes. any way, thanks for your time. harry

STP S-4967
FRAM TG4967
Super Tech MP 4967
WIX 51394
NAPA Gold 1394
If WIX and NAPA Gold still have the convex shaped base plate, this could cause problems with leaking.