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I have a Toro CCR3650 Snow Thrower that will not start. I have cleaned the Carb, good spark plug, good gas. I did a tune up this summer and it fired up. I drained the fuel at that time. I attempt to use it this winter and it will not start. I have attempted to pull start as well as electric start.

When utilizing electric start, the unit sounds like it's going to start for a few seconds and then stops that sound and continuing a "whirling" sound. Out of the exhaust, there are puffs of smoke that continually come out .

Any suggestions on what to check now?

Being a 2-cycle engine I’m betting that while it was sitting the gas evaporated, leaving only oil in the carb and crankcase. You are trying to start the unit by igniting oil only, which will not work. To remedy this problem I spray some carb cleaner into the carb and then try to start with no choke. It may take a couple f trys, but once it starts let it run for about five minutes before shutting down. Had three with that same problem after the first snow fall this year. Solved the problem each time.

Rivets said:

Being a 2-cycle engine I’m betting that while it was sitting the gas evaporated, leaving only oil in the carb and crankcase. You are trying to start the unit by igniting oil only, which will not work. To remedy this problem I spray some carb cleaner into the carb and then try to start with no choke. It may take a couple f trys, but once it starts let it run for about five minutes before shutting down. Had three with that same problem after the first snow fall this year. Solved the problem each time.

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I did as mentioned and the thrower started on the second pull. I let the unit sit and run for about 5 minutes with the choke slide all the way to the right. I then slide the choke to the middle for a short time and then moved the lever all the way to the left. Within seconds of moving the choke to the left, the engine seized up and stopped. Small puffs of smoke could be seen coming out of the carb. area. I could barely pull the rope out and when I tried to do the electric start, the unit just gave me a whirling sound. I noticed around the carb., there was a what appeared to be a broken rubber band looking item around it.

What could of happened? The engine shot?

I hate to ask this question, but could you have put in straight fuel, instead of a mixed fuel. This would have caused the engine tp seize.

Rivets said:

I hate to ask this question, but could you have put in straight fuel, instead of a mixed fuel. This would have caused the engine tp seize.

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I did not. If the engine seizes, it it done?

Might be. I would pull the belt cover and using a big pipe wrench try to break it loose by turning it backwards. What’s the units model and serial numbers?

Rivets said:

Might be. I would pull the belt cover and using a big pipe wrench try to break it loose by turning it backwards. What’s the units model and serial numbers?

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With that said, I did "acquire" the unit over the summer and did a tune up on it. Could of been "bad gas" put in it before and left in the lines? I don't know for sure. Model # 38518, serial # 240017416. Are there "how to" videos showing how to attempt this? I'm sure that it is self explanatory but helps to see it first. I appreciate your suggestions.

The unit is sixteen years old, so remember that when deciding on how you want to proceed.

Kennykenny said:

I noticed around the carb., there was a what appeared to be a broken rubber band looking item around it.

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I just pulled my Toro 2450 apart and found the same 'rubber band' has been disintegrated. It just fell off when I was working around it. I've got no idea why there for and I'm surprised it's not listed (or I just don't see it) in the exploded parts diagrams.

Have seen that rubber band a few times and I can honestly say I have no idea why it shows up on some units. Seizures on two cycle engines are 99.9% of the time caused by failure to mix oil with the fuel or using the wrong type of oil. I have seen failures due to running outboard oil in trimmers which run twice as hot. The other cause may be something like a needle bearing breaking loose due to age and abuse over time.

Rivets said:

Might be. I would pull the belt cover and using a big pipe wrench try to break it loose by turning it backwards. What’s the units model and serial numbers?

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Rivets, just last ditch attempts to "save" the snow thrower. I sprayed PB Blaster in the spark plug opening and let it sit for a few days. The pull cord will now pull for short distances. I pull the cord out and then retract and pull again and it will pull out a bit farther and so forth until it eventually does pull all of the way out. Is this a good sign or is this the best that I can hope for?

You mentioned, " I would pull the belt cover." When you say belt cover, I'm assuming that you are referring to the drive belt cover? If so, when the cover is removed, "using a big pipe wrench try to break it loose by turning it backwards." how/where do I do this? Am I attempting to turn backwards the engine pulley wheel, idler puller wheel or rotor pulley wheel or something else? Thank you for your assistance.