You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Export thread
Snapper SX825- Solenoid Issues
#1
J
jimcahoe
J
jimcahoe
I can't get my mower to start. I get a click under my seat when I turn the ignition. Is there anything I should check before actually replacing the solenoid? Is this a generic part I can get anywhere?
#2
M
mechanic mark
M
mechanic mark
Post model number please, should be 7 numbers.
Also post model, type, trim, from engine. Model number will be 6 numbers and or letters, type will be 4, trim will be 2.
model xxxxxx, type xxxx, trim xx.Engine
Is battery charged up? Inspect and clean all electrical connections, wear safety glasses, and make sure all connections are tight.
Results
Also post model, type, trim, from engine. Model number will be 6 numbers and or letters, type will be 4, trim will be 2.
model xxxxxx, type xxxx, trim xx.Engine
Is battery charged up? Inspect and clean all electrical connections, wear safety glasses, and make sure all connections are tight.
Results
#4
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Give this a try, will tell you where the problem is.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
#5
J
jimcahoe
1) 13 volts
2) 13 volts
3) 0
4) 0
5) 0
6) ok
Hopefully I answered everything.
J
jimcahoe
Give this a try, will tell you where the problem is.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
1) 13 volts
2) 13 volts
3) 0
4) 0
5) 0
6) ok
Hopefully I answered everything.
#7
Carscw
Carscw
Put some jumper cables on it from the car battery to the mower battery.
You hear a click so your getting power so maybe the battery is week.
You hear a click so your getting power so maybe the battery is week.
#8
M
Mikel1
M
Mikel1
You said 0 Volts on #3, that's the problem. Read Rivets last sentence in his "Third" paragraph and that is your answer. If you don't have 12V on the small wire while trying to start then it can't bridge the voltage over to the other solenoid post leading to starter.
#9
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
As Mike said the answer is at the end of step 3. 0 volts means you either have a bad switch, bad safety switch or problem with the wiring. You are now going to trace the wiring from the S terminal on the key switch to the solenoid. When you loose 12 volts, you will have located the problem
#10
J
jimcahoe
J
jimcahoe
I did forget to mention it does start with the rope pull when the ignition is in the on position. Does this narrow down anything else?
#11
J
jimcahoe
There is a white 2 outlet plug by the starter. One side has a white wire only. It has 13 volts. The other side has 2 black wires. The one directly across from the white has pulled out of its spot. The other wire is black and is across from nothing.
I can still manually start the mower. Does any of this make sense?
J
jimcahoe
Give this a try, will tell you where the problem is.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
There is a white 2 outlet plug by the starter. One side has a white wire only. It has 13 volts. The other side has 2 black wires. The one directly across from the white has pulled out of its spot. The other wire is black and is across from nothing.
I can still manually start the mower. Does any of this make sense?
#12
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
As I said in post #9, you are going to have to do some electrical troubleshooting. Start at the key switch and trace the wiring to the starter. At each connection you will be testing for 12V. Make sure that each connection is clean and tight. If you can pull start the unit, that normally means the safety switches are good, but when electrical troubleshooting you must NEVER ASSUME ANYTHING, DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING.
#13
J
jimcahoe
My solenoid has two attachments that are equal size that have nuts on them. There is a third push on wire in
the middle which is blue. When I pull this off the wire shows 13 volts with the starter switch turned to the right.
Does this help?
J
jimcahoe
You said 0 Volts on #3, that's the problem. Read Rivets last sentence in his "Third" paragraph and that is your answer. If you don't have 12V on the small wire while trying to start then it can't bridge the voltage over to the other solenoid post leading to starter.
My solenoid has two attachments that are equal size that have nuts on them. There is a third push on wire in
the middle which is blue. When I pull this off the wire shows 13 volts with the starter switch turned to the right.
Does this help?
#14
M
Mikel1
M
Mikel1
What hp is your engine, need for wiring diagram? I do see a blue wire on the diagram I am looking at, should go to S terminal on ignition switch from solenoid. Is that correct?
#15
Carscw
That good it should show 13 volts.
On the two others post one should be 12 volts all the time the other should be 12 volts with the key on start.
If you use a wrench to bridge the two together will the starter work?
Carscw
My solenoid has two attachments that are equal size that have nuts on them. There is a third push on wire in the middle which is blue. When I pull this off the wire shows 13 volts with the starter switch turned to the right. Does this help?
That good it should show 13 volts.
On the two others post one should be 12 volts all the time the other should be 12 volts with the key on start.
If you use a wrench to bridge the two together will the starter work?
#16
J
jimcahoe
J
jimcahoe
1) 13 volts
2) 13 volts
3) 0
4) 0
5) 0
6) ok
Hopefully I answered everything.
I was wrong about #3. I have a 3 connection solenoid. When I pull the wire in the middle and test the wire(not the terminal) i show 13 volts.
#17
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
If you have 12 volts at the small wire in step 3, this indicates one of two things. Either the solenoid has lost it's ground to the frame (remove the solenoid and clean the base where it attaches to the chassis) or the solenoid is bad (replace)
#18
J
jimcahoe
When I removed the solenoid to clean there was a clear piece of plastic about 4" x 4" underneath it. Is this correct? If so what am I cleaning?
J
jimcahoe
If you have 12 volts at the small wire in step 3, this indicates one of two things. Either the solenoid has lost it's ground to the frame (remove the solenoid and clean the base where it attaches to the chassis) or the solenoid is bad (replace)
When I removed the solenoid to clean there was a clear piece of plastic about 4" x 4" underneath it. Is this correct? If so what am I cleaning?
#19
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
If the solenoid is mounted to plastic without something metal to ground it, it won't work. You may need to make a wire to go between the solenoid mounting screw, and something metal on the frame.
#20
J
jimcahoe
I replaced my solenoid and the mower now started but only runs about half throttle and rough. I think it may have something to do with the wires by the starter. The colors I listed above are wrong. The two wires coming down from the top around the top of the starter are red and black. The other side of the plug had white only. The red wire was pulled out and the plug was damaged. I am the one who connected the red and white wire. I need help in figuring out how these wires should be connected.
It is 8 hp and the model# is 250816BE.
J
jimcahoe
There is a white 2 outlet plug by the starter. One side has a white wire only. It has 13 volts. The other side has 2 black wires. The one directly across from the white has pulled out of its spot. The other wire is black and is across from nothing.
I can still manually start the mower. Does any of this make sense?
I replaced my solenoid and the mower now started but only runs about half throttle and rough. I think it may have something to do with the wires by the starter. The colors I listed above are wrong. The two wires coming down from the top around the top of the starter are red and black. The other side of the plug had white only. The red wire was pulled out and the plug was damaged. I am the one who connected the red and white wire. I need help in figuring out how these wires should be connected.
It is 8 hp and the model# is 250816BE.
#21
M
Mikel1
M
Mikel1
Scroll down to wiring schematic(bottom) of this link
Snapper 250816BE 25" 8 HP Rear Engine Rider Series 16 Exploded Parts Lookup by Model
Snapper 250816BE 25" 8 HP Rear Engine Rider Series 16 Exploded Parts Lookup by Model
#22
J
jimcahoe
Thanks for the schematic. I am still confused. I have a photo of my wiring. If I send a picture can you tell me how to correct the wiring?
J
jimcahoe
Scroll down to wiring schematic(bottom) of this link
Snapper 250816BE 25" 8 HP Rear Engine Rider Series 16 Exploded Parts Lookup by Model
Thanks for the schematic. I am still confused. I have a photo of my wiring. If I send a picture can you tell me how to correct the wiring?
#23
J
jimcahoe
The mower is running now but maybe a third of it's power. Running rough. I pulled the plug and it is totally black and was cleaned recently. I took the top oil plug off to make sure I had enough oil and it came out and over flowed. I had to put the plug back in fast to stop it.
Does any of this tell you anything?
J
jimcahoe
Scroll down to wiring schematic(bottom) of this link
Snapper 250816BE 25" 8 HP Rear Engine Rider Series 16 Exploded Parts Lookup by Model
The mower is running now but maybe a third of it's power. Running rough. I pulled the plug and it is totally black and was cleaned recently. I took the top oil plug off to make sure I had enough oil and it came out and over flowed. I had to put the plug back in fast to stop it.
Does any of this tell you anything?
#24
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
That tells me that the float needle is not seating, allowing fuel to flow throughout the carb into the crankcase. Time to clean and rebuild the carb, replacing the float needle and seat.
#25
M
Mikel1
M
Mikel1
Like Rivets said your carb is flooding. You probably know this but make sure you change your oil.
#26
J
jimcahoe
Would any kind of carb cleaner possibly fix this?
J
jimcahoe
That tells me that the float needle is not seating, allowing fuel to flow throughout the carb into the crankcase. Time to clean and rebuild the carb, replacing the float needle and seat.
Would any kind of carb cleaner possibly fix this?
#27
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
In my opinion, I would either clean the carb in a dip tank style carb cleaner or ultrasonic cleaner. The fix though is to properly replace the float needle and seat after cleaning.
#28
J
jimcahoe
I replaced the needle valve under the float and the mower starts right up. I would say it could probably run at full ideal if it wasn't idling up and down continuously. What should I look for now? I seem to be making progress.
J
jimcahoe
Would any kind of carb cleaner possibly fix this?
I replaced the needle valve under the float and the mower starts right up. I would say it could probably run at full ideal if it wasn't idling up and down continuously. What should I look for now? I seem to be making progress.
#29
J
jimcahoe
I replaced the needle valve under the float and the mower starts right up. I would say it could probably run at full idle if it wasn't idling up and down continuously. What should I look for now? I seem to be making progress.
J
jimcahoe
Like Rivets said your carb is flooding. You probably know this but make sure you change your oil.
I replaced the needle valve under the float and the mower starts right up. I would say it could probably run at full idle if it wasn't idling up and down continuously. What should I look for now? I seem to be making progress.
#30
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Did you replace the seat? Did you give it a bath or just spray with carb cleaner? Did you reset the float level after replacing the seat? What are your engine numbers? What was the needle part number?