Snapper "rider" not going into gear

[mattm55]

Yeah, I just rebuilt mine completely as all the parts were available. I watched videos for help. Im not sure if kits or complete trans is available. A google search would tell. Not cheap though.

Matt

 

[1vannn]

So after tearing into the gear box today I discovered a worn gear, the bigger one, and I have reason to suspect that this is causing my problem. Problem is that it's $70, and for one part I don't want to pay that. So I am now looking for a parts mower with a good axle setup. If anyone knows of any somewhere near Hamilton, OH for cheap (less than $75) let me know.

Thank you to all that have helped me through this and hopefully I'll be updating you guys soon with a conclusion to fixing this thing

 

[1vannn]

Good news - Found a parts Snapper for $80 on Craigslist. Hoping to do a partial trade for maybe a push mower for $45 to $50.. Head gasket is blown but I'm considering an engine swap rather than a rear end swap.... Stay tuned.

 

[mattm55]

Great to hear.

I had an old 62 tooth gear that was in pretty decent shape I replaced but had just threw it out. There is usually more wrong than the big gear as you investigate. The bearings (bushings actually) as well as the hubs and other transmission stuff. It can get quite expensive as you replace. A donor machine is a great option. Make 1 good one out of 2.

Keep us informed.
Matt

 

[1vannn]

Great to hear.

I had an old 62 tooth gear that was in pretty decent shape I replaced but had just threw it out. There is usually more wrong than the big gear as you investigate. The bearings (bushings actually) as well as the hubs and other transmission stuff. It can get quite expensive as you replace. A donor machine is a great option. Make 1 good one out of 2.

Keep us informed.
Matt

So I bought the mower, rolls well, I'm going to replace the blades. But that is a separate issue. Anyway, I used the engine off my SRM140 which is a Briggs 286707 and it replaced the Briggs (I think) 28T707. trouble is that during this changeover process, I figured out the wiring is a smidge bit different. It seems to be it's not getting any spark due to some wiring issue. I'm half tempted to just use all the wiring from my SRM140 to the new mower, but I'm sure there is a simple way of fixing this. The mower I bought is a SR1028.. Thanks to all in advise.!

 

[mattm55]

So I bought the mower, rolls well, I'm going to replace the blades. But that is a separate issue. Anyway, I used the engine off my SRM140 which is a Briggs 286707 and it replaced the Briggs (I think) 28T707. trouble is that during this changeover process, I figured out the wiring is a smidge bit different. It seems to be it's not getting any spark due to some wiring issue. I'm half tempted to just use all the wiring from my SRM140 to the new mower, but I'm sure there is a simple way of fixing this. The mower I bought is a SR1028.. Thanks to all in advise.!

Yes, so without looking at model numbers, just think about what the circuit is. A Briggs should get spark if no wires are connected and the magneto ground wire is not touching anything. So the magneto wire is the "kill switch". Grounding that will stop the engine.

If you have a simple continuity tester (HF cheapy would work) and test any, all the switches to make sure they still work. Can you also provide a simple basic drawn on paper diagram of wiring and colors perhaps. Here is a link to mine which adds complexity in the key switch start mode but you get the general idea even though its a Honda. Same principle idea

http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/attachments/snapper-forum/31689d1492775292-snapper-rer-28085s-restore-electricaldiagramsimple1-jpg

Electrical Diagram: https://www.partstree.com/parts/snapper/mowers-rear-engine-riding-lawn-mower/281016be-snapper-28-rear-engine-rider-10-hp-series-16/electrical-systems-for-8-10-12-13-hp-briggs/

 

[1vannn]

Yes, so without looking at model numbers, just think about what the circuit is. A Briggs should get spark if no wires are connected and the magneto ground wire is not touching anything. So the magneto wire is the "kill switch". Grounding that will stop the engine.

If you have a simple continuity tester (HF cheapy would work) and test any, all the switches to make sure they still work. Can you also provide a simple basic drawn on paper diagram of wiring and colors perhaps. Here is a link to mine which adds complexity in the key switch start mode but you get the general idea even though its a Honda. Same principle idea

http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/attachments/snapper-forum/31689d1492775292-snapper-rer-28085s-restore-electricaldiagramsimple1-jpg

I'll take a look after class and I'll get back to you guys. Thanks for your drawing, I didn't even think about doing that. ?

 

[cashman]

Thanks for the neat wiring diagram! That needs to be put on a sticky somewhere on this site as there has been several members in the past requesting that info.

 

[mattm55]

Thanks for the neat wiring diagram! That needs to be put on a sticky somewhere on this site as there has been several members in the past requesting that info.

Yes, I had a hard time finding any clear references to wiring even for the Briggs and especially not the Honda. Probably why I didn't realize the Honda already had a solenoid that I had to omit as I already had a generic one.

I did take liberties to not include any of the "switches" (i.e. blade, gear) and also omitted my 10 A inline fuse from Solenoid B <=> to starter switch B terminals. I could redraw to include those but it might get messy. Maybe just a redraw with references to them. I'll see what I can do on the drawing.

Updated Drawing for Electrical:

http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=31938&d=1493824701


Matt