I have a Snapper RER 33114520BVE with 14.5 hp Briggs and Stratton engine and I’m having trouble with ignition switch —mower won’t turn off with ignition switch in off position so I have to throttle it down to shut it down
I got a new switch but starting working on it when it wasn’t summer so it was alot cooler out and basically gave up!
Now its hot summer in Florida
All the other safety switches were working
Now I went start the mower to do the lawn and it would not start I wasn’t getting a spark
So I replaced the spark plug and it started right up
Then I realized I was not on the seat and didn’t have the brake/clutch pushed in so apparently the brake/clutch and seat safety switches were not working
I get my best bet would be put in the new switch- trace the wire through the tube with a new wire and make all the connections
The wire that goes to the ignition switch obviously has the insulation rubbed off causing a short
Then I hope for the best
once the ignition switch is changed
Any suggestions or short cuts would be helpful Thanks Mike
First, would you double check the model number you posted? Could it be 3314520? If it is was the ignition switch you should have used is 7026343SM. Could you have gotten the wrong switch? A lot of switches look the same, but you must check the back of the switch and make sure all terminals are labeled in the same spot. Let us know and we’ll go from there, but we would only be guessing until you reply.
Ok I have a Snapper 7026343SM switch to put in to replace the factory OEM switch which is failing to shut off the engine
Not I don’t know if the wire is bad —insulation got rubbed off and causing a short or switch is just bad?
Now as far as the Snapper I have yet to find model/serial number plate it supposed to be on back frame according to Snapper but I looked and its not there
I will dig out the paperwork I have on the unit to see what the model number is—the guy I bought it from kept all records meticulously for this unit
Alright I have the numbers
Snapper 3314520BVE
Serial # 11348333
——————————
14.5 hp Briggs and Stratton
287707-1235E1
Serial # 009182E
thats info on what I have
—-Mike
#7
StarTech
Just note that ignition coils kill terminals do go bad. I would check the kill terminal is grounding as it should. If you don't have a meter then temporary connect a long wire to the kill terminal of the coil and ground it while the engine is running if the coil's kill terminal is good the engine will die and you have a wiring problem. If it don't die then the coil is bad.
Yes I tested the kill wire and it killed the engine when I touched it to ground
So I think I have a wiring problem
I was waiting on Revits to tell me how put in a new switch
Thats why I posted model/serial on mower- engine-switch
Unless you can help me
Simple, remove the bad switch, check the back of the switches making sure they are labeled exactly the same, install new switch. Test unit and report back.
But should I check the wires going through tube for continuity
Thats I believe where the problem lies not only is switch bad but the wire(s) or ground wire is shorting out
Thanks
I have that diagram and I been tracing the wires with it for about 45 minutes now
I think I may just hook up the new switch and see what happens I may wrong about bad wiring—its all the original oem wiring
Could the switch just be the problem the old one would turn not off the engine could ground terminal be bad on the old switch?
Could be only the switch or wires or both. Only you can decide whether you need to check the wires in the harness loom. No one here is standing next to you to see what you have and tell you how in-depth you need to go.
What I do is use some patch cords ( fancy name for short jumpers ) to make the connections you see in the little box on the right side of the drawing at the plug .
As your problem was not turning off then all you need to do is check there is ground on the ground wire then jump the ground to the magneto and check for ground at the magneto kill wire which on the diagram Star posted would be green to red at the switch plug
However I would double check the wires myself because those colours go against conventional wiring colours
Using black for unswitched power and red for a switched ground is a recipie for disasters.
