Snapper rear rider 281016BE

[Jaison]

I bought this mower recently, and it ran great until I got the blades spinning and ran over some leaves. It stalled, died and wouldn’t start back up. What I’ve done since then:
Replaced spark plug
Replaced battery
Replaced blade safety switch
Replaced fuel filter
Replacing seat safety switch soon
Replacing solenoid soon.
Is there anything else I should look at to get this up and running? I pulled the cord in the back to try that out today and I got a little spark and a small backfire, didn’t get it fired up though. When I turn the key there is just a single knock/click and that’s it.

 

[mechanic mark]

Flywheel key may be sheared.

how to inspect flywheel key - Google Search

www.google.com

 

[Jaison]

Flywheel key may be sheared.

how to inspect flywheel key - Google Search

www.google.com

Thank you. I’ll take a look at that tomorrow then and I’ll post a picture because I’m not 100% sure what a sheared flywheel key looks like.

 

[StarTech]

Sounds like an electrical issue of a bad connection. According to wiring diagrams nothing prevent the starter from turning safety switch wise.

Remove the blue small wire at the starter solenoid and apply 12v to see if the starter will turn. If not them you got either the positive or negative cable with a bad connection.

If the starter turns then work back toward the ignition switch and fuse checking for bad connections as you go.

 

[Jaison]

Sounds like an electrical issue of a bad connection. According to wiring diagrams nothing prevent the starter from turning safety switch wise.

Remove the blue small wire at the starter solenoid and apply 12v to see if the starter will turn. If not them you got either the positive or negative cable with a bad connection.
View attachment 68011
If the starter turns then work back toward the ignition switch and fuse checking for bad connections as you go.

Do I apply 12 volts with the positive clamp from my small battery pack?

 

[StarTech]

As long the negative clamp is clamped to the frame ground. it should work. Or simply use a length of wire and apply from the battery positive post.

Also what small battery pack are you using? Hopefully it is not one you using solely instead of a regular to start the engine as the starter usually needs 80+ amps to operate.

 

[Jaison]

As long the negative clamp is clamped to the frame ground. it should work. Or simply use a length of wire and apply from the battery positive post.

Also what small battery pack are you using? Hopefully it is not one you using solely instead of a regular to start the engine as the starter usually needs 80+ amps to operate.

Maybe a length of wire is a better idea since the battery and solenoid are right next to each other. The battery pack is a 3amp charger. I have a larger jumper too as well that’s 800amps.

 

[Jaison]

Just a quick update:
Before I did any electrical testing I decided to pull the cord one more time and it fired right up, but the engine seized. I had to free it with a wrench, I’m gonna work on piling it with mystery oil today.

Using the key gets me a single click from the solenoid, but at least I know she can run.

 

[StarTech]

If it seized and you broke free then you pulled the engine and go inside to at least clean the piston to crankshaft journal. As once these are ran without oil the aluminum rod journal starts transfering to the crankshaft journal and this only gets worst until the rod breaks and when that happens that usually destroys the crankcase.

 

[Jaison]

If it seized and you broke free then you pulled the engine and go inside to at least clean the piston to crankshaft journal. As once these are ran without oil the aluminum rod journal starts transfering to the crankshaft journal and this only gets worst until the rod breaks and when that happens that usually destroys the crankcase.

Appreciate it, I’ll check this out as soon as I can