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Snapper mower won't start

#1

G

gml76

I recently acquired a Snapper model SR1030 riding mower (10 HP Briggs & Stratton motor). The first time I tried to start it, I moved the engine speed lever to choke 3 times and it started right up. It ran for about 20 minutes and then just died. I tried to start it, but it wouldn't even turn over. Absolutely nothing. I found that I had forgot to unscrew the fuel vent before beginning to cut my lawn. I opening it up. Still, nothing. After a good while of troubleshooting using the electrical schematic, I discovered an open fuse (in the line from ignition to the starter solenoid). Replaced this fuse. Still nothing at all. I decided to rule out a faulty battery (which is about 4 years old) by connecting my car battery to the mower's battery. Now, I finally got 12 Volts to the starter, but the motor still won't start/run. I noticed that the pedal/clutch switch was not being pressed in when the clutch pedal was depressed. I re-positioned this switch so that it is being depressed with the clutch pedal. I exercised the choke the exact same way that I did when it did start for me. Still won't start/run. I check all of the safety switches which are good. I pulled the safety interlock module. There was a lot of dust & dirt, which I cleaned off. I plugged it back in and tried it, but there was no change. I pulled the safety interlock module again and checked it with my Ohmmeter. Two of the four terminals are shorted together. I don't think that this is normal, unless the module contains a relay. Does it sound like the safety interlock module may be faulty or would I not get voltage to the starter at all if that was the case? If so, do you know of a good online source for them? Thanks for your help!


#2

I

ILENGINE

If you are getting 12 V to the starter sounds like a starter problem. And yes the interlock is a relay, so you will have continuity between two of the prongs. when 12 V are applied to those prongs, then you should have continuity on the other two prongs.


#3

G

gml76

How can I test/verify that it is a starter issue? Any chance that it could be a carb/fuel problem? Thanks again!


#4

Carscw

Carscw

How can I test/verify that it is a starter issue? Any chance that it could be a carb/fuel problem? Thanks again!

Well we know the starter is good because the engine turns over just won't start.

Pull the spark plug and ground it to the engine and see if you have spark

(( racing is the only sport that you need two balls ))


#5

G

gml76

Assuming I have spark (can't check at the moment), what would the next most likely culprit be?


#6

Carscw

Carscw

Assuming I have spark (can't check at the moment), what would the next most likely culprit be?

If you have spark put a tablespoon has in the carb.
Make sure the choke will close and open.

Take gas line off of carb make sure your getting gas out the end of the line.

(( racing is the only sport that you need two balls ))


#7

Carscw

Carscw

If no spark unhook the wire going to the coil and try again. If spark now then will be a switch or a bad wire.

(( racing is the only sport that you need two balls ))


#8

G

gml76

Thank you very much for the information! I will let you know what I find out.


#9

G

gml76

I replaced the plug (needed new anyways). Tried it, no spark. Disconnected wire going to the coil. Still, no spark. Any suggestions? Thank you!


#10

G

gml76

I wanted to post an update on my issue. Turns out, the reason my mower wasn't starting was because there wasn't any spark being produced. The reason for the "no spark" condition was a faulty ignition coil. It's funny though. I checked the coil with an Ohmmeter and it didn't read a short or an open, as I would have expected. It measured at about 4.7K Ohms. Obviously, you can't rely on an Ohmmeter test to tell you if an ignition coil is good or bad. I learned that you have to check for a spark. I replaced the coil with an OEM part I purchased from a local mower repair/parts shop. I also went ahead and replaced the battery (which was over 4 years old with corrosion on the positive post) as well. It starts up quite easily now and runs very nicely. Thank you guys again for your posts! They were very helpful and I would have been lost otherwise.


#11

Carscw

Carscw

Good job getting it running.

(( racing is the only sport that you need two balls ))


#12

P

porkchop

Glad your mower is working again!! If I am correct that your mower is a snapper Rear Engine Rider, I think you have got one of the best mowers ever made. Snapper rear engine riders have been around forever. With proper care they just go on and on and on. I love my series 23 rear engine Rider by snapper. Great machine. Take care.


#13

Carscw

Carscw

Glad your mower is working again!! If I am correct that your mower is a snapper Rear Engine Rider, I think you have got one of the best mowers ever made. Snapper rear engine riders have been around forever. With proper care they just go on and on and on. I love my series 23 rear engine Rider by snapper. Great machine. Take care.

I agree the snapper rer are the best mowers ever made. Very easy to work on. Very dependable

(( racing is the only sport that you need two balls ))


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