Snapper Mower dying after 2-3 minutes of run time?

[slomo]

What type meter did you use? Model number please. Is it an auto ranging meter or do you have to manually range it with the knob?

A coil with 1500 Ohms on the primary side wouldn't generate enough spark to do anything. Surely not enough to spark jump the plug gap with the engine under load. Something is up. Think you would be pulling your arm out trying to get that little guy started.

slomo

 

[sprovencio]

I'll have to take a look at the meter again, its a radioshack "auto ranging" meter. It certainly takes 2-5 pulls before the engine turns over. Also, I had the ignition coil straight off the mower, but will test again after removing the control unit too. If these don't fix it, then perhaps its just too old to get going perfectly again. I'll reply with the model number of the meter here shortly.

 

[sprovencio]

The multimeter I'm using is a "RadioShack 35-range Auto Ranging Digital Multimeter". Model/product number might be 22-801. But like I mentioned, I'll pull the control unit off the mower tomorrow and test the resistance. I've already put in an order for a new ignition coil.

 

[slomo]

Auto ranging should of given you accurate measurements. I was wondering if you had the meter on the wrong scale setting. You should be golden.

How much was the coil? And if you do, let me know the price on the control box. I have one of these Kawasaki FC150V's. Has the torque of a larger Honda GXV160 Commercial engine.

slomo

 

[sprovencio]

Coil was about $70 with shipping. Just pulled the control unit off the motor and re-tested the ohms. Still sitting at a 7.89K, regardless of the polarity of the meter. Seems like some odd results compared to the what the shop manual shows as normal range. Might try throwing the new coil on to see if it will run with the control unit as is, since the control unit was ~$90 or so.

 

[slomo]

Coil was about $70 with shipping. Just pulled the control unit off the motor and re-tested the ohms. Still sitting at a 7.89K, regardless of the polarity of the meter. Seems like some odd results compared to the what the shop manual shows as normal range. Might try throwing the new coil on to see if it will run with the control unit as is, since the control unit was ~$90 or so.

Forgot to ask. You do have a fresh battery in your meter? If you have a weak battery it can show low or high readings.

slomo

 

[sprovencio]

Not sure if anyone is still monitoring, but just replaced the new ignition coil today. Lawn Mower fired up and ran for a solid 5 or 6 minutes, but then reverted back to the same thing. I tried again multiple times after it cooled down and now we are back to only running for 2-3 minutes. Battery in the multimeter was fresh, yes. The only other electrical problem that we've mentioned is the control unit but quite frankly, I'm not sure its worth any more repairs for this engine. Not sure if there's a way to adjust the valves you were talking about, and how much that would make a difference, but seems like we've tried the main components.

 

[slomo]

Valve clearance out of spec would make it a hard starting engine. Unless they were way off, might not start at all.

Still sounds like you have either a fuel or spark issue. Get one of those lighted inline spark tester deals. Start it and let it run. See if the spark fades out.

Here's a link to one.

OEMTOOLS 25227 Inline Ignition Spark Tester

OEMTOOLS 25227 Inline Ignition Spark Tester

www.greatnecksaw.com

 

[sprovencio]

Just ordered a spark tester, should be here Friday. What am I looking for though, shouldn’t I see the spark stop as the engine stops anyways? Or would I notice the spark ceasing and then the engine stopping? Is the order of those events the important factor?

Also just looking into buying a used engine to swap onto the lawn mower but doesn’t appear like they make the FC series of Kawasaki’s anymore. Is the newer model The FJ180’s? Or any other Kawasaki models that would fit with similar specs?

 

[slomo]

The spark tester should light when the coil fires the plug. You will see a pulsing of light when it is running. If you see no light, coil is bad or kill wire needs looked at.

The FJ180V is the king of all push mower engines. Only the Briggs 8.50 and 8.75 ft lbs of torque can give it a run for it's money.

slomo