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Snapper mower Briggs engine

#1

S

Stoney55

I have a snapper mower that has no fire at this time. I recently replace the flywheel key and it worked fine a couple times. This morning I went out to mow and nothing. I checked the ohms of the spark plug and it seemed to be fine. Still no spark, so I replace the spark plug with a new one, no change. I watched a couple videos and it told me to check the coil ohms with a multi-meter I did and it was around 6500ohms. I was reading that that was too high a resistance. I also call one of the local repair shops and he told me to disconnect the kill wire off of the coil and see if it would start, it didn't. I am at a loss at this time. I am pretty sure the fuel is good, but not 100% positive. I am just wanting some opinions on what to do next.


#2

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

If you unplugged the wire from the coil itself that means you had to take the air shroud off..... Right ??

If you didn't have spark after that it means the coil is bad.......

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!


#3

sgkent

sgkent

also the spark plug wires can arc thru to the cover. Just replace the coil - that is the easiest solution. Check to be sure that the kill wire isn't grounded but it sounds like you have no spark even with it removed.


#4

R

Rivets

If you removed the kill wire and still had no spark, replace the coil. Doing resistance readings on today’s coils doesn’t tell you much, as they have CDI pickups which can’t be tested.


#5

B

bertsmobile1

I have a snapper mower that has no fire at this time. I recently replace the flywheel key and it worked fine a couple times. This morning I went out to mow and nothing. I checked the ohms of the spark plug and it seemed to be fine. Still no spark, so I replace the spark plug with a new one, no change. I watched a couple videos and it told me to check the coil ohms with a multi-meter I did and it was around 6500ohms. I was reading that that was too high a resistance. I also call one of the local repair shops and he told me to disconnect the kill wire off of the coil and see if it would start, it didn't. I am at a loss at this time. I am pretty sure the fuel is good, but not 100% positive. I am just wanting some opinions on what to do next.

monkeys can read . They have no understanding of what they read and apparently monkeys can now post videos on U tube also with no understanding of what they are videoing about.
A coil has 2 sets of windings + a hall effect trigger chip.
You can measure the resistance of the secondary windings ; laminations ( ground ) to the high tension spark plug terminal.
However you can not make any meaningful measurements of the primary windings or the trigger chip without a $ 30,000 piece of test equipment.
As this is a big for the pockets of the feeble minded who post on U-Tube you will not see any proper coil testing on there.
As coils like this have been standard fitment since around 1985 which was before most of the feeble minded ego maniacs who post drivel on U-tube were born one can only assume, like a 2 year old child they are facinated by numbers that move on a screen.
\For all but a few systems which are no longer used there are only 2 tests an intellignet person who understands how the coil works would do.
1) remove the kill wire , crank the engine and test the outside of the wire to ground , especially the push mower ones with a metal encased spark plug cap.
2) with the kill wire removed check for a spark from the conductor to ground.
For the first one you can replace the end cap is it is shorting and with the second you replace the coil.


#6

S

Stoney55

monkeys can read . They have no understanding of what they read and apparently monkeys can now post videos on U tube also with no understanding of what they are videoing about.
A coil has 2 sets of windings + a hall effect trigger chip.
You can measure the resistance of the secondary windings ; laminations ( ground ) to the high tension spark plug terminal.
However you can not make any meaningful measurements of the primary windings or the trigger chip without a $ 30,000 piece of test equipment.
As this is a big for the pockets of the feeble minded who post on U-Tube you will not see any proper coil testing on there.
As coils like this have been standard fitment since around 1985 which was before most of the feeble minded ego maniacs who post drivel on U-tube were born one can only assume, like a 2 year old child they are facinated by numbers that move on a screen.
\For all but a few systems which are no longer used there are only 2 tests an intellignet person who understands how the coil works would do.
1) remove the kill wire , crank the engine and test the outside of the wire to ground , especially the push mower ones with a metal encased spark plug cap.
2) with the kill wire removed check for a spark from the conductor to ground.
For the first one you can replace the end cap is it is shorting and with the second you replace the coil.

At this point I have replaced the coil and the spark plug still nothing. I squirted a little carb cleaner into the spark plug housing to see if I got any spark then. Nothing.


#7

S

Stoney55

At this point I have replaced the coil and the spark plug still nothing. I squirted a little carb cleaner into the spark plug housing to see if I got any spark then. Nothing.


#8

S

Stoney55

also the spark plug wires can arc thru to the cover. Just replace the coil - that is the easiest solution. Check to be sure that the kill wire isn't grounded but it sounds like you have no spark even with it removed.

At this point I have replaced the coil and the spark plug still nothing. I squirted a little carb cleaner into the spark plug housing to see if I got any spark then. Nothing.


#9

S

Stoney55

If you unplugged the wire from the coil itself that means you had to take the air shroud off..... Right ??

If you didn't have spark after that it means the coil is bad.......

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!

At this point I have replaced the coil and the spark plug still nothing. I squirted a little carb cleaner into the spark plug housing to see if I got any spark then. Nothing.


#10

Boobala

Boobala

Did you reset the "air-gap" on the new coil to specs ..??


#11

tom3

tom3

Strong magnet on the flywheel? New coil, new plug. Not much else to go wrong. Flywheel loose and key sheared again? Should still see spark I think. Sunspots?


#12

M

MyEngineGuy

KISS method... Remove the rubber boot from the spark plug wire. Check that the metal connector is well crimped and piercing the insulator, into the wire. Correct as needed with needle n0se pliers, reinstall the insulator boot. The coil should have an air gap, and contact points should be free of rust and damage- look at both flywheel magnets and coil, and hit with a steel brush to clean if needed. Loosely secure the coil so it can be moved by hand. Turn the flywheel until the magnets are facing the coil, it should magnetize and pull it flush, that's 0 inch gap. Without knowing your exact model, a good rule of thumb is about 0.015 in gap. A business card works well if you don't have a feeler gauge, set the business card between the coil and flywheel. Tighten the coil bolts. This should get you spark. If no spark, I would try a known good coil. Yes you can test primary and secondary coil windings by an ohmmeter. Yes, sometimes the coil can breakdown the internal windings or laminates under heat, but since you are testing in no start, cold condition, the static resistance test across the windings should answer your question.


#13

S

Stoney55

Did you reset the "air-gap" on the new coil to specs ..??



Yes


#14

W

Walt 2002

" key sheared again? "

Given what you said, that'd be my guess, improper torque.

Walt Conner


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