Hi folks, I have been gifted an old Snapper LT125 - 23hp - 42" cut.
IT's been maintained well for the last ~20 years - however I believe it may be time to change the drive belt. The mower just won't move at any real speed - unless I'm on absolutely flat ground. If any slope or an ant mound + thick grass - the mower just acts like the transmission is slipping - and won't turn the wheels to move up the hill. I'm betting (and hoping) it's the drive belt.
The manual simply states "See Dealer for Service" to change the drive belt. Really? I would much rather do it myself...and I see from a YT video that it may be a real pain in the rear to change... found this video for a similar Snapper model:
I've got the belt on order already. Was just seeing if there were any official procedures for it's replacement, that may be easier than this guy's video shows.
Groovy. Amazon shipped the wrong belt (because I didn't pay attention to what was returned on the part number search - and clicked on a "suggested" item - it's the mwer/deck belt - so wasn't a total waste - except of my time) My fault.. Got the right one ordered this time.
I was successful in getting the old belt off this afternoon. Yes - It was a pain in the rear. Removed mower deck. Removed the blade engage clutch, steering gears under the mower, the 2 drive tensioner pulleys under the mower, steering wheel - and steering shaft (since the shaft goes through the belt) ... then bent the guide tab on the front pulley away from the pulley so the belt could be pulled off.
The replacement belt ( 1728008SM ) is spec'ed out as being 88.25" inches. Given that - how much would a belt have to stretch to make the mower slip when going up slight inclines? I measured the old belt. 3x. It measured right at 88.75 - so according to spec - has stretched 1/2" (if measured as OD of the belt). Is 1/2" stretch enough to make it feel lijke the transmission is slipping when on slight inclines, yet almost seem fine on flat surfaces? Or should I be looking elsewhere?
#5
StarTech
The v of the belt wears too effectively making the belt longer then measured OD. What you measured is the belt stretched length.
#6
StarTech
Now I do need the 7 digit model from the serial tag to be sure but it looks to a rather simple belt path. One thing I saw on the IPL I pulled up was there is a plastic v-idler pulley used. If so it needs to changed at the same time the drive belt gets changed.
Now I do need the 7 digit model from the serial tag to be sure but it looks to a rather simple belt path. One thing I saw on the IPL I pulled up was there is a plastic v-idler pulley used. If so it needs to changed at the same time the drive belt gets changed.
Yes - I have pulled off the V-pulley as well as the flat pulley. From what I see on my .pdf parts list - looks like those are 1728001SM (V pulley) and 1728000SM (flat pulley). Let me know if I'm incorrect.
Thanks!
Rex
#8
StarTech
Ahhh That is the one that I look-up. Those are the right ones.
As changing the drive belt the electric PTO would need to be removed but the rest is fairly simple to do. Just remember to torque the PTO retaining bolt (screw) to 55 ft lbs when when reinstalling and it would hurt to use some anti-seize on the crankshaft.
Ahhh That is the one that I look-up. Those are the right ones.
As changing the drive belt the electric PTO would need to be removed but the rest is fairly simple to do. Just remember to torque the PTO retaining bolt (screw) to 55 ft lbs when when reinstalling and it would hurt to use some anti-seize on the crankshaft.
Your mower has a Tufftorq K46 hydro transmission. These are known for early failures. Sure hope I'm wrong but I suspect the drive belt is not the problem unless it's totally shot.
Your mower has a Tufftorq K46 hydro transmission. These are known for early failures. Sure hope I'm wrong but I suspect the drive belt is not the problem unless it's totally shot.
I should find out in the next 48 hours. the pulleys and belt shoud be here tomorrow... Crossing my fingers that it's these maintenance items and not the transmission.
I've found several resources on these transmissions - from tutorials on DIY rebuilds - to folks that will do a rebuild and ship it back.. so there's options... Just - none of them look fun.
(edit - later this evening after some more googling. Yeah - looks like my experienced symptoms are typical for a K46 that's worn out. I'm okay with doing a rebuild if I have to... - just not looking forward to it. )
Getting things put back together - and ready to torque down the bolt holding the electric clutch (55 ft lbs). How do you hold the flywheel to keep it from turning the engine while trying to torque that bolt? I'm not seeing a convenient (or any) place to jam a screwdriver or wrench - where I'm not going to risk breaking a flywheel tooth or something.
Maybe a few ugga-duggas with my air-impact and call it good? (I'd rather make sure it's torqued correctly)
EDIT - I found an old crescent wrench that I fed through the fan fins to hold the top bolt while torquing underneath.
The new belt & pulleys help. They'll buy me time to see about a rebuild kit later for the TuffTorq. About to put the deck back on - and clear up the space on my driveway before the city sends me a love letter about projects being left on the driveway. lol
