Buckshot 1
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:thumbsup: glad to hear that you are making progress and have it running. Keep us posted on any further progress. What part of the Buckeye state are you from?
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Snapper 3008 carb linkage
- Thread starter slumlord
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Export threadBuckshot 1
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:smile: Must be around the Greenville area. Do you ever go to the Portland steam show? I live in Ft. Wayne. But I am a diehard Buckeye. Born and raised in Jackson, OH. Have a good one.
About 15 miles from Greenville, actually.
So,the update on the mower is that I did add a manual choke. It does have the advantage that the choke can be used at any throttle setting. At least now it will start. Sorry I could not do it the correct way,but maybe later it could be corrected.
I found that one of the muffler bolts had sheared off in the block. I ground it off straight and drilled it out ,rethreaded the hole,and all is well.
Then the "oh Crap" moment hit. The blade did not maintain the same depth around the deck. After finally getting the adjuster screws loose, it seemed like it wiggled even more. Then I discovered that the blade bar threads and the spindle shaft threads were toast . [on this model,the blade bar just threads onto the spindle shaft with no center bolt required] A bit of wiggling and the last threads let loose. The fact that the PO had let the blade repeatedly crash into the deck is probably what did it in.
Back to the mower shop at the hardware store--- I will see if the used decks for 50 bucks are a better deal than ordering an entire new spindle, and I suspect that it will be the case.
Next steps are pressure wash the loosened oil/grease gunk, remove blade spindle, replace spindle and engine.
So,the update on the mower is that I did add a manual choke. It does have the advantage that the choke can be used at any throttle setting. At least now it will start. Sorry I could not do it the correct way,but maybe later it could be corrected.
I found that one of the muffler bolts had sheared off in the block. I ground it off straight and drilled it out ,rethreaded the hole,and all is well.
Then the "oh Crap" moment hit. The blade did not maintain the same depth around the deck. After finally getting the adjuster screws loose, it seemed like it wiggled even more. Then I discovered that the blade bar threads and the spindle shaft threads were toast . [on this model,the blade bar just threads onto the spindle shaft with no center bolt required] A bit of wiggling and the last threads let loose. The fact that the PO had let the blade repeatedly crash into the deck is probably what did it in.
Back to the mower shop at the hardware store--- I will see if the used decks for 50 bucks are a better deal than ordering an entire new spindle, and I suspect that it will be the case.
Next steps are pressure wash the loosened oil/grease gunk, remove blade spindle, replace spindle and engine.
Buckshot 1
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:smile: I would not worry about being political correct on the choke issue, If you are satisfied with the way the choke is setup now, that is all the matters. On the deck issue, I would determine what kind of shape the orignal deck shell is in and then go from there. I am not sure what type of spindle is on your deck, wether it be a one piece (welded togehter) or one that can taken apart and repaired. I been going to ask you, how did the coffee taste after the carb. soak? Good luck on your endevers.
I got the 'junk" deck today. $25.00 and it is complete with all the mounts,ect. The deck is cosmetically rusty,as if the mower sat outside for quite some time. The good news is it had a newer top pulley,and the spindle tower appears to be quite solid.
I got the frame/body of the original mower completely de-greased also. After trying squirt cans of engine cleaner,I finally took the nuclear option of a gas/diesel mix sprayed on with a garden sprayer. the diesel in the mix lets it sit longer and soften the crud. Air wand blows the loosened crap off on to a big cardboard sheet, and a gasoline rinse from the sprayer rinses it all off on to the cardboard. I burned the cardboard and the clean-up is complete.
So now I have the option of using either deck on the mower. I could trade the spindles out,or rebuild the original deck with new bearings and weld the blade mounting bar to the original threaded shaft. With new bearings installed before the weld,it would probably last for years. Once I remove the damaged spindle,the correct solution will present itself...
It is actually tempting to sand it down a little and paint it up nicely. Project creep is in full bloom.
I got the frame/body of the original mower completely de-greased also. After trying squirt cans of engine cleaner,I finally took the nuclear option of a gas/diesel mix sprayed on with a garden sprayer. the diesel in the mix lets it sit longer and soften the crud. Air wand blows the loosened crap off on to a big cardboard sheet, and a gasoline rinse from the sprayer rinses it all off on to the cardboard. I burned the cardboard and the clean-up is complete.
So now I have the option of using either deck on the mower. I could trade the spindles out,or rebuild the original deck with new bearings and weld the blade mounting bar to the original threaded shaft. With new bearings installed before the weld,it would probably last for years. Once I remove the damaged spindle,the correct solution will present itself...
It is actually tempting to sand it down a little and paint it up nicely. Project creep is in full bloom.
Buckshot 1
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:smile: Well your making progress. You mention spindles, is that a one/two blade deck? All the old snappers rer that I have worked on, the decks where one blade.
One blade 30 inches long. The blade mount holder and the spindle are toast,but the bearings are fine. I have to decide whether or not to trade spindles to the best deck or just run the way it is.
I am thinking about just welding the blade holder bar to the spindle for a spare,since the lower bearing is still OK. I will have to put the lower bearing in a heat sink while welding so the seals stay in good shape. If the bearings in the unit later fail, I would not be out any money--just simply remove the top snap ring, tap out the spindle shaft, and replace the whole thing.
When it is all said and done,I hope to have one nicer deck and a spare deck ready to go. It only takes 5 minutes to change these decks out. We still have plenty of time--gonna be 4 degrees F in a couple of days.
I am still amazed at the simple and practical engineering of the RER Snapper
I am thinking about just welding the blade holder bar to the spindle for a spare,since the lower bearing is still OK. I will have to put the lower bearing in a heat sink while welding so the seals stay in good shape. If the bearings in the unit later fail, I would not be out any money--just simply remove the top snap ring, tap out the spindle shaft, and replace the whole thing.
When it is all said and done,I hope to have one nicer deck and a spare deck ready to go. It only takes 5 minutes to change these decks out. We still have plenty of time--gonna be 4 degrees F in a couple of days.
I am still amazed at the simple and practical engineering of the RER Snapper
Buckshot 1
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:smile: I do not know if welding the blade to the holder is a good idea. How are you going to put the balance back in. If your going to weld, remove the shaft from the spindle and remove the bottom bearing if it stays on thespindle and then weld, no heat sink needed. You might have to make a jig, to keep the blade 90 degress to the holder. Yes those Snapper RER, are very simple and practical. But sometimes the electrical system can drive you up a tree. The only thing I could not get use to, where those tri-cycle hand bars. Up here in the Fort. temps not above 15 for a few days. Being retired, I do not have to go anywhere. So I am going in to the hibernating mode.