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This isn't a lawn mower, but I was hoping someone would have some general knowledge regarding small engine carbs. When I start the engine, the engine runs at high rpms and gas dumps out of the overflow. I'm thinking the float needle isn't seating properly. I tried to clean the assembly by spraying carb cleaner into the float and letting it soak overnight. Unfortunately, I can not disassemble the float without the use of an ez out extractor. There are no heads on the bolts.

I'm debating on whether I should purchase a new carb or try removing the bolts and replacing them. Do you think a float stuck in the open position is causing my issues? What else could it be?

I also have a couple more questions regarding carburetor operation. There is a solenoid on one side of the carb that has a needle. It appears that it is energized when the ignition is in the on position. Is this a fuel shutoff valve? Is this used to shut off the engine (stops fuel going through the idle orifice).

On the other side of the carb, there is small assembly with spring and hose. What is the purpose of this assembly?

Here is a link that shows the carb:

http://www.atv4usa.com/UTV150 Parts Catalogue-Small.pdf

Let me repeat a post from another thread that might just get you the help you need. Please follow it.


Since this is a help forum, it is only fair that the people trying to answer questions have some information to work with, so they can give an accurate answer. This helps them if they need to research parts or service information on your engine or equipment. In the first part of your post please include your engine numbers from the ID tag or stamping and the equipment type and model numbers that are on it. Failure to do this may result in you not receiving any accurate help with your problem.

Many of the tech's that hang out here work in or have there own shops and the first thing they do when they make up a work order on a unit is include the engine and equipment numbers on the work order. Since this technical forum is offered free to the public, it's the least we can ask you to do, so please help all of us out. *So please post the numbers in the new topic before you start to ask your question. It should be the first thing you write before beginning your question.

Can't offer help without.

Just looked at your website. Don't know of many on the forum work on ATV's. Hope some can help when you post numbers.

After looking at the carburetor diagram it appears similar to a motorcycle carburetor with the long needle/slide. I would research the price of a new carburetor if the manufacturer makes it so difficult to disassemble.

To answer your question, yes a stuck float could cause the condition you are experiencing. Also, is the a rebuild kit available? Sometimes all you can get are complete assemblies.

Lawnranger said:

After looking at the carburetor diagram it appears similar to a motorcycle carburetor with the long needle/slide. I would research the price of a new carburetor if the manufacturer makes it so difficult to disassemble.

To answer your question, yes a stuck float could cause the condition you are experiencing. Also, is the a rebuild kit available? Sometimes all you can get are complete assemblies.

Click to expand...

No, a rebuild kit is not available. I was going to disassemble it and try to clean it. Do you think I can fix it without replacing the needle? I'm not sure if there is a seat or o-ring.

What is they carb on. To me the diagrams look like those of a small 4-wheeler. Are there any numbers or a name on the carb.

bluefitness said:

No, a rebuild kit is not available. I was going to disassemble it and try to clean it. Do you think I can fix it without replacing the needle? I'm not sure if there is a seat or o-ring.

Click to expand...

If no kit is available and you open the carburetor up only to find you need parts such as a sunk float (is that an oxymoron?) or a bad needle/seat then you have only one option. You can certainly try though.

Rivets, I have worked on some of these Chinese made 4 wheelers and it's like most things from China - some good and some bad. Kazuma is the brand that shows up most around here and most of them are average but as bluefitness is finding out, parts are difficult to find locally and have to be purchased online most of the time. I try to stay away from them as much as possible but when friends who bought them for their kids ask me to help them I find it difficult to say no.

Rivets said:

What is they carb on. To me the diagrams look like those of a small 4-wheeler. Are there any numbers or a name on the carb.

Click to expand...

It is on a small utility vehicle. There are some numbers, but they are specific to this particular vehicle. It does not cross reference to anything else.

That's why I asked about carb name and numbers. We are a Polaris dealer and the wheeler mechanic has had some (not a lot) of luck using parts from different units as substitutes. May get lucky.

Lawnranger said:

If no kit is available and you open the carburetor up only to find you need parts such as a sunk float (is that an oxymoron?) or a bad needle/seat then you have only one option. You can certainly try though.

Rivets, I have worked on some of these Chinese made 4 wheelers and it's like most things from China - some good and some bad. Kazuma is the brand that shows up most around here and most of them are average but as bluefitness is finding out, parts are difficult to find locally and have to be purchased online most of the time. I try to stay away from them as much as possible but when friends who bought them for their kids ask me to help them I find it difficult to say no.

Click to expand...

I'll try removing the bolts and seeing what I find. If I can't clean it, I will likely just buy a new one. I could try to find a similar needle, but it will likely be more trouble than it's worth.

Do you know what those parts are that I was referring to in my second post? I'm guessing one is for engine shut down, but I don't know what the other one is.

bluefitness said:

I also have a couple more questions regarding carburetor operation. There is a solenoid on one side of the carb that has a needle. It appears that it is energized when the ignition is in the on position. Is this a fuel shutoff valve? Is this used to shut off the engine (stops fuel going through the idle orifice).

On the other side of the carb, there is small assembly with spring and hose. What is the purpose of this assembly?

Here is a link that shows the carb:

http://www.atv4usa.com/UTV150 Parts Catalogue-Small.pdf

Click to expand...

The part on the top right of the diagram looks like an anti-backfire/afterfire solenoid similar to what is used on riding lawnmowers to prevent fuel flowing in the main jet when the ignition is turned off. By preventing fuel flow with the ignition off, backfiring upon shut down can be eliminated.

The other part with the spring & hose could be, depending where the other end of the hose goes, some sort of crankcase vent but I'm just guessing.

Thanks for the help

bluefitness said:

This isn't a lawn mower, but I was hoping someone would have some general knowledge regarding small engine carbs. When I start the engine, the engine runs at high rpms and gas dumps out of the overflow. I'm thinking the float needle isn't seating properly. I tried to clean the assembly by spraying carb cleaner into the float and letting it soak overnight. Unfortunately, I can not disassemble the float without the use of an ez out extractor. There are no heads on the bolts.

I'm debating on whether I should purchase a new carb or try removing the bolts and replacing them. Do you think a float stuck in the open position is causing my issues? What else could it be?

Click to expand...

Man, that float bowl (only) looks just like the bowl in my Honda 550. When I had to clean that carb, the "X" in the 4 phillips head float bowl screws was rounded, but I was fortunate to be able to use a small vice grip on the outer edge of the screws, to break them free.

So, I ended up replacing the carb. It would flood after startup. It would shoot fuel out of the overflow. I figured it is either a sticking float or the electronic choke is letting too much fuel into the carb. The new carb came with a new choke. It ran great for a little while and now it is not starting again.

Would valves needing adjustment cause starting problems? How can I check the ignition system to see if it is getting spark? I haven't opened it up yet, so I'm just trying to think ahead.