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I have a Simplicity Courier ZTR with a 36” deck. If I make even the slightest mistake in turning or slowing down, it creates a hideous rut. I’ve seen ads for slick rear tires. My lawn is mostly level. Would these slick tires help?

You will get stuck, from no traction. Either avoid wet mows, or use a 3 point turn easily.

Like Lawn Addict said three point turns are the way to go. The mistake people make is when the try to make a zero turn is they stop the inside tire and use the outside tire to turn and this screws the inside tire right into the ground and tearing up the yard. Remember three point turns are the best.

Like the others said about the 3 point turns. Also, slow down at the end of the row, before making the 3 point turn.

swschult said:

I have a Simplicity Courier ZTR with a 36” deck. If I make even the slightest mistake in turning or slowing down, it creates a hideous rut. I’ve seen ads for slick rear tires. My lawn is mostly level. Would these slick tires help?

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Enter the turn slower, one side in Forward motion, the other side slightly rearward.

Gord Baker said:

Enter the turn slower, one side in Forward motion, the other side slightly rearward.

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AMEN!

I try to make wide turns if lawn space allows it. Other types of turns take more careful handling of the levers, I have to be careful not to pull the reversing side lever too far back, as the mower will spin that tire backward. My Turf Care CZ42175 is repowered with a 19hp B&S which is a tiny bit up in hp but I doubt that makes much difference. I'd bet I would be spinning tires all the time with slicks. I talked to a lawn care pro just a few weeks ago about one of his green paint ztr mowers that have the tweels on it. He said it would really tear a chunk out of a lawn if the turns were not executed just right. He said he put up with the extra care/attention to turns because of the no 'flat tire' downtime.

SamB said:

tweels on it. He said it would really tear a chunk out of a lawn if the turns were not executed just right. He said he put up with the extra care/attention to turns because of the no 'flat tire' downtime.

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Reading a few ppl using Tweels are having issues with the spokes breaking over time. Mostly after warranty.. They sure ain't cheep either.

7394 said:

Reading a few ppl using Tweels are having issues with the spokes breaking over time. Mostly after warranty.. They sure ain't cheep either.

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I toyed with the idea of replacing my drive wheels on my ztr, but the cons vs the pros was way toward the cons, plus the $$$$ of them told me they were not a good idea. As for the lawn care pro, my thoughts were he'd be better off simply having conventional spare tires rather than having the tweels to avoid flat tire downtime. To each his own,though.

7394 said:

You will get stuck, from no traction. Either avoid wet mows, or use a 3 point turn easily.

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On the sloped part of my backyard, if it's been raining recently and the ground is somewhat wet, if I get too aggressive with the levers, I'll be spinning my drive wheels that are shod with turf tread tires like crazy. I can only imagine how the smooth tires would work for me, even though the tire people say the smooth tire is designed for zero turn mowers.

While I was looking for tire tread designs,I ran across this information on mower tires,from "gardentoolexpert.com".
This looks like very good information and I simply can't wait to try it! LOL! (yeah,right!)
This is a direct Copy and Paste from their website:

"Did you know you can retread tires of your lawnmower to improve their quality of grip? Yes, tire retreading is and should be
part and parcel of care and maintenance. It may not be an easy task, especially for those who think it is a tedious process,
but it’s worth giving a try. Retreading tires will make them look as good as new, and that means easy mowing all the way.

For those reading about retreading mower tires for the first time, it is not rocket science. You need a few tools and items
to do it right. A string, 0.5-inch screws, screwdriver, string, and scissors/snips are all you need to get started
retreading. The process of retreading involves the following:

Measure the circumference: Use the string to measure the tire circumference. You should do it first with rear tires off
the ground.
Cut off to the right size: Now, using scissors, cut off bicycle tires the size of your lawnmower’s tires. In the same way,
cut treads on the bicycle tires so that they are a perfect fit as those on the mower’s tires.
Drive the screws: Get the screws and drive them through the end of the treads you removed from the bike. Screw them tightly
all around. You can use two or three screws to make the treads tighter.

Repeat: Repeat the above process for the other tires. You are now free to start using your lawnmower with an assurance that
the treads will have a firmer grip on the lawn, giving you more control and convenience."

Are we both talking about Zero Turn mower tires ?

SamB said:

I try to make wide turns if lawn space allows it. Other types of turns take more careful handling of the levers, I have to be careful not to pull the reversing side lever too far back, as the mower will spin that tire backward. My Turf Care CZ42175 is repowered with a 19hp B&S which is a tiny bit up in hp but I doubt that makes much difference. I'd bet I would be spinning tires all the time with slicks. I talked to a lawn care pro just a few weeks ago about one of his green paint ztr mowers that have the tweels on it. He said it would really tear a chunk out of a lawn if the turns were not executed just right. He said he put up with the extra care/attention to turns because of the no 'flat tire' downtime.

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My first zero turn mower was a CZ4817 and it was a great little mower for the money and for a small arear. It has small tires on it and has a propensity to spin in turns and turns on slopes. I still have one of them and plan on putting it back it service and sell it when I do. You might try larger rear tires. I did that for a customer with a Z3 (Blue Iron Eagle) Dixie Chopper and he said it made all the difference in the world. They later came out with the Magnum which was on the Iron Eagle frame and had the larger tires on it. Much better handling mower.

hlw49 said:

My first zero turn mower was a CZ4817 and it was a great little mower for the money and for a small arear. It has small tires on it and has a propensity to spin in turns and turns on slopes. I still have one of them and plan on putting it back it service and sell it when I do. You might try larger rear tires. I did that for a customer with a Z3 (Blue Iron Eagle) Dixie Chopper and he said it made all the difference in the world. They later came out with the Magnum which was on the Iron Eagle frame and had the larger tires on it. Much better handling mower.

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Good idea there,hlw49. The CZ421 has 4 lugbolt hubs that are the same pattern as my HF trailer I use to haul it. Going to a larger tire/wheel shouldn't be much of a problem. Shoot,I could even use my trailer spare tires on the mower just to try this out. Releveling the deck would the work/issue with changing tire size.

SamB said:

Good idea there,hlw49. The CZ421 has 4 lugbolt hubs that are the same pattern as my HF trailer I use to haul it. Going to a larger tire/wheel shouldn't be much of a problem. Shoot,I could even use my trailer spare tires on the mower just to try this out. Releveling the deck would the work/issue with changing tire size.

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Tires off your trailer may not be wide enough to hold good.

I'd consider wider, before taller & narrower..

7394 said:

Id consider wider, before taller & narrower

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hlw49 said:

Tires off your trailer may not be wide enough to hold good.

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Oh,I agree. I just meant it's a common pattern for a bit wider wheel,not a taller one,but wider may result in taller,too. Just being a bit careful in the turns will work for now.