Simple question; answer, maybe not so much

[Roll]

Regarding service, oil and filters change. I do it once a year, my preference is to do it in the Spring at the start of the new season. Wondering what others do. Change it in the fall when it gets put away for the winter?
The mower is one year old with one season on the books, no more than 20 hours of use.


Roll
2022 eXmark Zero Turn Radius S Series; with 52 in deck; Kawwasaki FX 691V.

 

[7394]

Once a year as well. But I do my fluids in fall, after last mow. Just to get the grunge out & let it sleep with a belly full of clean fresh fluids.

I am also servicing my Hydros this fall, I'm at 50 hours, Book says @ 100 hours, But I want all the break-in crud out & get off to good start. Plus after service & clean up the mower gets a good coat of Paste wax.

I have Scag Liberty (Black out edition) 48" bought new in May 20 of 2021.

 

[Rivets]

It is a personal preference. I recommend spring tuneup, but do have customers who want it done in the fall. More importantly is to do it every year, not when to do it.

 

[bodean]

Regarding service, oil and filters change. I do it once a year, my preference is to do it in the Spring at the start of the new season. Wondering what others do. Change it in the fall when it gets put away for the winter?
The mower is one year old with one season on the books, no more than 20 hours of use.


Roll
2022 eXmark Zero Turn Radius S Series; with 52 in deck; Kawwasaki FX 691V.

I change oil and do a full service and lube every spring. We get 4 full seasons here and the equipment is stored in an unheated building with a full tank of gas. I’m sure that with the extreme temperature swings, that there is an increased likelihood that moisture condenses inside the engine. Therefore I make sure to run engine for 2-3 minutes before draining and replacing the oil. I like to crank and run all the engines for at least 5 minutes every month during the winter to keep everything charged up and dried out. Same with my motorcycles, old cars, and tractors.

 

[Roll]

I change oil and do a full service and lube every spring. We get 4 full seasons here and the equipment is stored in an unheated building with a full tank of gas. I’m sure that with the extreme temperature swings, that there is an increased likelihood that moisture condenses inside the engine. Therefore I make sure to run engine for 2-3 minutes before draining and replacing the oil. I like to crank and run all the engines for at least 5 minutes every month during the winter to keep everything charged up and dried out. Same with my motorcycles, old cars, and tractors.

Bodean, there are mixed opinions about running internal combustion engines in the winter. The argument is that starting it after the oil has drained actually does more damage (incrementally) than letting it sit all winter and just starting it once in the spring when the season starts. I am not advocating either action, just sharing something someone told me years ago. That said, I stopped running hobby cars in the winter and let them sit until spring. Your comment about heating the engine and the oil up to operating temperature before changing is (in my opinion), an excellent idea and I will do the same for my mower. Also I agree with an earlier change of oil and filters on a new engine. I followed this early change schedule on my cars and often found metal in the oil filter when I cut it apart after the first oil and filter change.

Another question. It sounds like you may have a mowing operation/business? If so, by using your methods have you watched the engine life of your equipment? And if so how many hours do you typically get out of an engine, (lawn mower size).

Thanks,

Roll

 

[Born2Mow]

On my long term personal mower, not a commercial mower that's regularly traded in...

► Once a year (time of the year is personal preference) I do this...
• Change the engine oil (and filter) to rid the engine of water... not because the oil is worn out.
• Sharpen (or replace) the blade
• Check the battery over.
• Inspect inflatable tires for cuts, thorns, etc.
• Inject grease into every grease fitting.

► The only things I do consistently in the Fall are...
• Drain ALL the gasoline (tank & carb) before storage.
• Disconnect the Negative terminal of the battery. (Or remove the battery if the location has long term freezing conditions.)

► I consider ALL recommended times indicated in the owner's manual for engine oil or hydro oil changes to be the ABSOLUTE MAXIMUM number of hours. I usually reduce that time by at least 1/3. Oil changes are the cheapest insurance you can get.

 

[7394]

Change the engine oil (and filter) to rid the engine of water... not because the oil is worn out.

True, oil doesn't wear out, but the additives do.....