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Hello, I have a 2012 silver eagle 2750 with a Generac 27 hp engine. I am having an issue with it running well. I am not sure where to post the question as to how to try and figure things out while it is winter here in Michigan. I will tell what the issue is, if there is a better place to post this, please let me know and I will post it there. My reason for posting is that my local dealer cannot seem to figure it out, so I thought since I do not need it for about 4 months, I will try to fix myself.
Issue= When cold, starts fine, but has to warm up for about 5 minutes before trying to mow. If I try to engage blades and hit grass, it will bog and die. Once it is warm, I can mow ok, if I stop, and try to lower throttle, it will slowly spit and sputter and die. Once it dies, it takes a lot to start again, meaning feathering throttle and cranking a lot and sometimes will start again. During the process of starting, it will blow smoke out of exhaust and will take some serious feathering to get it started. Once started it will run ok as long as the throttle is nearly set to max. Sometimes I have to leave it sit and let it cool down before I can start it again. But if I idle it down again, it will die. When this started happening, I replaced the fuel filter and also the fuel pump. Nothing changed. I also noticed that the fuel filter did not seem to be flowing very well (it is clear so I can see), also the filter never sees much fuel, maybe a quarter full of fuel at any time. I thought I figured it out, and the caps were not venting, but even running with caps loose, it did not seem to help. At one point previously, my floats were sticking, and it kind of ran this way. I fixed that, finding there was some crud that got in there. It does not seem like the floats are sticking now, just acting similar. Now I have some time before mowing season is here, and would appreciate any tips that you all may have to resolve the issue.

where you posted is fine, everybody on the forum that checks the recent section will see you and your thread

Would you please post the model and serial numbers for both the unit and engine. With them we will be able to see exactly what unit and engine you are talking about. To me you either have a lean running condition or may be in need of a valve adjustment. Can give you a better idea of how to proceed when we have numbers.

Read through operators manual, then start with tune-up.

yes, valves should be adjusted every 100 hrs. with engine cold.

Some of your symptoms kind of sound lean, but the hard to restart and the smoking sounds like running rich and flooding maybe due to not sealing float valve. And starting in 2012 the fuel caps went non venting due to emissions. Should be a secondary vent line from the tank going either to a canister or so the low vacuum side of the intake.

Rivets said:

Would you please post the model and serial numbers for both the unit and engine. With them we will be able to see exactly what unit and engine you are talking about. To me you either have a lean running condition or may be in need of a valve adjustment. Can give you a better idea of how to proceed when we have numbers.

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The mower is a 2012 2750 Silver Eagle, I did not get the serial number. The engine is a Generac, model 0050584, serial number 853991311125.

I was so frustrated with it at the end of the season, I thought about just buying a new carb and trying that. But now that I have time, I would like to be more confident in what is wrong, rather than just spending money and chasing the problem. Valves were adjusted at about 375 hours, now it has around 475 hours. Should I start with adjusting them again? Would that help with fuel issues? I am no expert with these engines, but everything so far has led me to believe that it is an issue of not getting enough fuel, for one reason or another.

From what you have posted the first thing I would check is the float. Is it set properly (level when carb is tipped upside down) and operating properly (moving freely and not sticking). Next would check the choke linkage, making sure it is opening and closing properly. FYI, many small engine fuel filters do not completely fill, but are working properly. This is after I have checked the vent line as IL suggested.

I finally got a spot in the garage open and started trying to figure this thing out. First thing I did is remove the hose from the carb to the expansion tank. i cannot blow thru it. There is a anti backfire valve in line. I cannot blow thru it in any direction, is this normal? Or could the valve be faulty? I assume this is a one way valve, but would think blowing thru in the direction of the arrow would work. Maybe I am nuts, and it needs more pressure than what my big mouth can give it.

Put it back together and try the simple spark plug test. Pull off one of the spark plug wires and try to start the engine.
Then replace it, and pull the wire off on the other side. See if it starts on both sides, on either, or none.

Fish said:

Put it back together and try the simple spark plug test. Pull off one of the spark plug wires and try to start the engine.
Then replace it, and pull the wire off on the other side. See if it starts on both sides, on either, or none.

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I am confused now. What will that tell me? Not questioning your knowledge, just don't understand.

That thing has a crazy fuel system on it. Dual fuel tanks with one valve check valve type fuel caps. Vapor lines from the two tanks to a expansion tank, On the tank is a rollover valve, and then there is a anti backfire valve in the line between the tank and the carb inlet. if any of that system gets clogged it will cause either fuel tank pressure issues, or vacuum issues with the tanks. The rollover valve and the anti backfire valve may be one way valves since the fuel caps may be the anti vacuum valves for the tanks. You may not be able to blow through the valves you may have to put a vacuum on then to check operation.

I would also do the check that Fish mentioned because it could be a ignition module issue also.

And the reason for Fishes post is each plug is an independent system.
So one side can be working & one side not working
But when together the non function side can prevent them both from working.
I like to pull the kill wires of each coil because they can cause interfearance .
Some had a diode in the loom to stop this & others latter put the diode inside the coil.

The mower will run on 1 cylinder, but like real crap. And will run real bad or die when the blades are engaged. It will tell you a bunch, before you start spending money, and the test costs nothing.

Also could be a valve train problem too.

As said can be coil or spark plug. The last Generac on a Dixie Chopper that I repaired is was simply a coil's plug terminal that had rusted. causing lost of spark under load. The engine ran fairly good except couldn't achieve full rpms.

That all makes sense to me now. Hopefully I will be able to do some testing tonight. Thanks to all for the replies.

Fish said:

Put it back together and try the simple spark plug test. Pull off one of the spark plug wires and try to start the engine.
Then replace it, and pull the wire off on the other side. See if it starts on both sides, on either, or none.

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I did what you told me. Started on both sides. Both ran similar, one side was not stronger or smoother than the other.
Would that change possibly once it was warmed up good? if not, what would you suggest next? Check float as Rivets stated?