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Sharpening Blades on Husqvarna Garden Tractor
#1
J
Jaylyn
J
Jaylyn
Hey everyone. I need your help.
It's time to sharpen the blades on my GTH2448T 24HP, 48" mowing deck that I bought in 2006. I had it serviced every year until last year when I did everything myself except for sharpening the blades.
I've watched a few videos and they all say you have to remove the mower deck. I seem to remember my husband would drive the old craftsman mower onto ramps so it was at an angle. He would then lay underneath it and sharpen the blades. Of course I never paid attention figuring I would never have to do it.
When the tractor dealership for my New Holland tractor sent a guy out to sharpen the blades on the mower, he had me lift the mower and he laid underneath it and sharpened the blades with a file.
My concern is if I take off the mower deck to do this how to I put it back on so it will be tight enough that it won't come loose? The air compressor is broken so I can't use it.
What do I use for a tool to sharpen the blades, just a large file? My husband had tools for everything, so I know I must have what is needed, but am not sure of what to use.
None of the videos show how to actually sharpen the blades, do you go back and forth or just one way?
Are there any tips to pass along that the manual doesn't mention?
For everyone reading this, my one piece of advice is to make sure your spouse or partner can do everything you can do or vise versa; otherwise you'll be learning like I am. Learning is fun! Thanx, Jaylyn
It's time to sharpen the blades on my GTH2448T 24HP, 48" mowing deck that I bought in 2006. I had it serviced every year until last year when I did everything myself except for sharpening the blades.
I've watched a few videos and they all say you have to remove the mower deck. I seem to remember my husband would drive the old craftsman mower onto ramps so it was at an angle. He would then lay underneath it and sharpen the blades. Of course I never paid attention figuring I would never have to do it.
When the tractor dealership for my New Holland tractor sent a guy out to sharpen the blades on the mower, he had me lift the mower and he laid underneath it and sharpened the blades with a file.
My concern is if I take off the mower deck to do this how to I put it back on so it will be tight enough that it won't come loose? The air compressor is broken so I can't use it.
What do I use for a tool to sharpen the blades, just a large file? My husband had tools for everything, so I know I must have what is needed, but am not sure of what to use.
None of the videos show how to actually sharpen the blades, do you go back and forth or just one way?
Are there any tips to pass along that the manual doesn't mention?
For everyone reading this, my one piece of advice is to make sure your spouse or partner can do everything you can do or vise versa; otherwise you'll be learning like I am. Learning is fun! Thanx, Jaylyn
#2
F
fastback
F
fastback
Jaylyn, don't you hav someone nearby that you can ask for help. I guess it would be nice if you could do it yourself but a little help would be good. My wife would probably try to sharpen herself as well.
I normally remove the blades and grind them. Then I check them for balance. The whole job should not take much more than a half hour.
Regards
Paul
I normally remove the blades and grind them. Then I check them for balance. The whole job should not take much more than a half hour.
Regards
Paul
#3
RobertBrown
RobertBrown
Most of us here remove the blade to sharpen, and at least half of us agree that the blade should be balanced during the sharpening process. The blade on your mower is held on by a bolt and relaltively easy to remove, albeit hard to access.
If you can gain access and get a look underneath it should be apparent to you how to remove the blade. If it is not perfectly clear how things work afetr looking at the blade, call for help. If you can get the blade off and it doesn't have any big nicks in the edge you can sharpen it with a bastard file or an angle grinder. The key here is not to remove any more of the blade than necessary and not to get the blade to hot (angle grinder).
Balancing: Big debates over how important this is. The importance is relative to the amount of blade removed. If you don't have a balance tool or you don't know what one looks like, you may want to take the blade to the lawn mower shop and let them do it. Should only cost a couple of dollars.
If the blade doesn't have any big nicks in it and you sharpen it with a file (put the blade in a vise for this procedure) don't worry too much about balancing this trip, get it next time.
hope this helps
If you can gain access and get a look underneath it should be apparent to you how to remove the blade. If it is not perfectly clear how things work afetr looking at the blade, call for help. If you can get the blade off and it doesn't have any big nicks in the edge you can sharpen it with a bastard file or an angle grinder. The key here is not to remove any more of the blade than necessary and not to get the blade to hot (angle grinder).
Balancing: Big debates over how important this is. The importance is relative to the amount of blade removed. If you don't have a balance tool or you don't know what one looks like, you may want to take the blade to the lawn mower shop and let them do it. Should only cost a couple of dollars.
If the blade doesn't have any big nicks in it and you sharpen it with a file (put the blade in a vise for this procedure) don't worry too much about balancing this trip, get it next time.
hope this helps
#4
F
fastback
F
fastback
BTW, you can get a balancer at Home Depot. It's made out of plastic and comes with a grinding wheel. I think it goes on a hand drill. Never used one. The cost of the kit is around $7.00. The balance is a cone and is simple to use. When you set the blade on the appropreate hole it will look like a regular balance. If one side is lower than the other you need to remove some steel from the low side.
#5
J
Jaylyn
Hi Paul,
Thank you for your reply. I must say when I first read it I thought it was a bit sexist, but then I simmered down and realized you know nothing about me. Women should also be able to do these things. My husband passed away, then my uncle, then my Dad and then my son all within a short time of one another. I had a 70 yo neighbor who used to guide me until he passed away. As far as the rest of my friends they are IT and don't know a thing about yard or farm equipment, only setting up networks.
After my son passed away I learned how to use my tractor, backhoe, etc and put a manufactured house on my land for my Mom. I did everything myself - the foundation, put in the road, the power, etc, except for delivering and setting up the home, Mom and I did it all. I have also learned how to do all the maintenance on the farm equipment, the rigs, and my Mustang. What I'm saying is I'm highly capable of doing whatever I have to but ask questions prior to starting something new, just to be on the safe side. I also am in the country, and the animals just don't have the answers.
Regards,
Jaylyn
J
Jaylyn
Jaylyn, don't you hav someone nearby that you can ask for help. I guess it would be nice if you could do it yourself but a little help would be good. My wife would probably try to sharpen herself as well.
Regards
Paul
Hi Paul,
Thank you for your reply. I must say when I first read it I thought it was a bit sexist, but then I simmered down and realized you know nothing about me. Women should also be able to do these things. My husband passed away, then my uncle, then my Dad and then my son all within a short time of one another. I had a 70 yo neighbor who used to guide me until he passed away. As far as the rest of my friends they are IT and don't know a thing about yard or farm equipment, only setting up networks.
After my son passed away I learned how to use my tractor, backhoe, etc and put a manufactured house on my land for my Mom. I did everything myself - the foundation, put in the road, the power, etc, except for delivering and setting up the home, Mom and I did it all. I have also learned how to do all the maintenance on the farm equipment, the rigs, and my Mustang. What I'm saying is I'm highly capable of doing whatever I have to but ask questions prior to starting something new, just to be on the safe side. I also am in the country, and the animals just don't have the answers.
Regards,
Jaylyn
#6
J
Jaylyn
Hi Robert and Thank you so much for your reply! This is exactly the kind of help I was looking for.
I think I will go with the bastard file and the vise. The Grizzly milling machine has a nice vise that holds everything really steady. There are several different grinders and I haven't mastered them yet. The barn has a machine shop in it so I do have all the 'toys' but haven't learned everything.
So to get the best access, I'm going to drive it up on the ramps, put the brake on, block the wheels, and then get access from underneath.
Again, thank you so much for your assistance Robert, it is most helpful!
Jaylyn
J
Jaylyn
Most of us here remove the blade to sharpen, and at least half of us agree that the blade should be balanced during the sharpening process. The blade on your mower is held on by a bolt and relaltively easy to remove, albeit hard to access.
Hi Robert and Thank you so much for your reply! This is exactly the kind of help I was looking for.
I think I will go with the bastard file and the vise. The Grizzly milling machine has a nice vise that holds everything really steady. There are several different grinders and I haven't mastered them yet. The barn has a machine shop in it so I do have all the 'toys' but haven't learned everything.
So to get the best access, I'm going to drive it up on the ramps, put the brake on, block the wheels, and then get access from underneath.
Excellent point, I hadn't contemplated that.Balancing: Big debates over how important this is. The importance is relative to the amount of blade removed.
Again, thank you so much for your assistance Robert, it is most helpful!
Jaylyn
#7
J
Jaylyn
Thank you for this info Paul, its appreciated!
Jaylyn
J
Jaylyn
BTW, you can get a balancer at Home Depot. It's made out of plastic and comes with a grinding wheel. I think it goes on a hand drill. Never used one. The cost of the kit is around $7.00. The balance is a cone and is simple to use. When you set the blade on the appropreate hole it will look like a regular balance. If one side is lower than the other you need to remove some steel from the low side.
Thank you for this info Paul, its appreciated!
Jaylyn
#8
F
fastback
F
fastback
Sorry Jaylyn, I was not trying to insult you. We all need help at times. If you remove the blades just remember that they are directional. The lifter always goes up. If you not sure remove one at a time. The other will help identify direction. Oh, again if you remove the blades put some anti-seize on the threads it will make it a little easier to remove the next time. Also wear gloves when you hold the blade to loosen the bolt. Good luck.
#9
J
Jaylyn
Hi Paul, Thank you & no insult taken, as I said once I thought about it I realized you had no way of knowing what I can or can't do.
Thank you so much for this information!! I'm planning on tackling the blades this afternoon. I've printed out everything Robert and you have said and am taking it to the barn with me. If you hear a long scream across the country, you'll know I am having problems. If a short scream it was successful and project is done.:smile:
Thank you again for your help!
Jaylyn
J
Jaylyn
Sorry Jaylyn, I was not trying to insult you. We all need help at times. If you remove the blades just remember that they are directional. The lifter always goes up. If you not sure remove one at a time. The other will help identify direction. Oh, again if you remove the blades put some anti-seize on the threads it will make it a little easier to remove the next time. Also wear gloves when you hold the blade to loosen the bolt. Good luck.
Hi Paul, Thank you & no insult taken, as I said once I thought about it I realized you had no way of knowing what I can or can't do.
Thank you so much for this information!! I'm planning on tackling the blades this afternoon. I've printed out everything Robert and you have said and am taking it to the barn with me. If you hear a long scream across the country, you'll know I am having problems. If a short scream it was successful and project is done.:smile:
Thank you again for your help!
Jaylyn
#10
I
ingigo
I
ingigo
remove blade one at a time to keep the balance. look up the grind angle and how much should be left untouched at the edge. Use a sharpie marker and draw a line on sharp side of the blade. gring or file till the marker is gone. use a ruler to mark the next line from the inside to the outside, leaving some metal beyond the line. grind or file that off. Keep about .033 inches, a thick fingernail, on the edge to prevent dings. put a smooth cone or a cylinder in the hex hole, use a lot of lube to help it balance. file or grind to finish balance...I assume you know which side to remove the metal. IT DOES NOT HAVE TO BE PERFECT! a rock or something will always mess up your blades. It is all good, it is just cutting grass in an immaculate fashion. But only if you want it to be. Have fun!
#11
BlazNT
BlazNT
5 years old.
#12
I
ingigo
I
ingigo
Snag a torque wrench if your manual for the deck dictates the desired torque needed to attach the blade to the "star looking puzzle piece". It sounds like you have a nice array of tools, but other wise just smack a breaker bar with a hammer to tighten it. I love being in middle of nature, those animals do not mind when I swear like a sailor and talk to myself.
#13
reynoldston
You might want to invest into a air compressor. Very handy to have like just blowing the old cut grass off the mower, installing air into the tires, etc. You can buy a cheep air compressor from Harbor Freight for around 100 dollars.
reynoldston
Hey everyone. I need your help.
.
My concern is if I take off the mower deck to do this how to I put it back on so it will be tight enough that it won't come loose? The air compressor is broken so I can't use use.
?
You might want to invest into a air compressor. Very handy to have like just blowing the old cut grass off the mower, installing air into the tires, etc. You can buy a cheep air compressor from Harbor Freight for around 100 dollars.
#14
M
motoman
M
motoman
There are volumes in this site on sharpening and many opinions. Balance is important as these air cooled (Vs especially) need all the smoothness they can get. I am using the original blades on my 2004 Craftsman. Always sharpened by hand. The blades are quite thick (around .200") so as you progress with sharpening you must keep thinning the cutting edge. Know as "backing off," or "secondary clearance" or "bevel." I guess smaller rigs have thinner blades, but same technique. The lift blades have a twist to them so they cannot be sharpened on a flat bed grinding table and must therefore either be hand sharpened or done with a special jig which has a "finger" to follow the twist. Try the search function.
#15
I
ingigo
I
ingigo
try putting a creeper or cardboard to slide the deck into position. Use a long wrench, torque wrench, or extend the wrench length with a pipe, or just hit the end of the wrench with a hammer, you are good. usually about 50 foot/lbs. of torque.
:confused2:
:confused2:
#16
Kenneth
Kenneth
After reading this old thread, I just felt compelled to say to the op that YOU are AWESOME! I love how you just get in there and get your hands on this stuff! With a learn as you go attitude. Doing what's gotta get done. Wow!
But to the fellas that have responded to this, I have to say that I'm a bit disappointed. The responses were all over the road. You guys need to think about how this information ( or mis-information) is used. It lives on the internet, forever.
It's likely too late to help this brave woman, who has had to pick up the slack, that's left behind when a significant other passes. She's likely worked it out by now.
But I'll say this for all the other folks out there, that may not know this.
I didn't know that sharpening a mower blade on these things were that complicated, until you guys explained it.
See, all this time, I've just been using a cheap dremel tool. There's a Dremel blade sharpening kit. It's very inexpensive, although I can't link the info, I got mine at Lowe's. This tool takes off a minimum of material, and sharpens quite nicely. There are many other ways of sharpening, but for me this is the best for diy. The local mower shop will also do it for very little money, if you take off the blades, and take them to the shop. As far as balance goes, this is mostly for the single blade, direct drive, push mowers. Our mowers are belt driven, and not as sensitive to blade balance. Common sense applies here. Blades don't have to be knife sharp, but evenly sharp is good. Take the blades off the mower, for sharpening. Car ramps, or a jack can be very helpful, and highly recommended. I use a mower lift. Harbor freight is a good source for a cheap lift. I use a vise to hold the blade, while sharpening. Take the blades off one at a time, if you're concerned about correctly replacing them. Torque specs, aren't critical, but a long handle wrench, or ratchet, should provide plenty of tightening ability, with normal strength.
Penetrating lubricant, applied hours beforehand will help loosen the bolts. And greasing the spindles is definitely recommended. Put it back together, and you're ready to go!
Just please remember, that this size of mower is heavy. If it falls, it can hurt you. So be careful, and take your time, be safe, those you love are counting on you! Happy Mowing!
But to the fellas that have responded to this, I have to say that I'm a bit disappointed. The responses were all over the road. You guys need to think about how this information ( or mis-information) is used. It lives on the internet, forever.
It's likely too late to help this brave woman, who has had to pick up the slack, that's left behind when a significant other passes. She's likely worked it out by now.
But I'll say this for all the other folks out there, that may not know this.
I didn't know that sharpening a mower blade on these things were that complicated, until you guys explained it.
See, all this time, I've just been using a cheap dremel tool. There's a Dremel blade sharpening kit. It's very inexpensive, although I can't link the info, I got mine at Lowe's. This tool takes off a minimum of material, and sharpens quite nicely. There are many other ways of sharpening, but for me this is the best for diy. The local mower shop will also do it for very little money, if you take off the blades, and take them to the shop. As far as balance goes, this is mostly for the single blade, direct drive, push mowers. Our mowers are belt driven, and not as sensitive to blade balance. Common sense applies here. Blades don't have to be knife sharp, but evenly sharp is good. Take the blades off the mower, for sharpening. Car ramps, or a jack can be very helpful, and highly recommended. I use a mower lift. Harbor freight is a good source for a cheap lift. I use a vise to hold the blade, while sharpening. Take the blades off one at a time, if you're concerned about correctly replacing them. Torque specs, aren't critical, but a long handle wrench, or ratchet, should provide plenty of tightening ability, with normal strength.
Penetrating lubricant, applied hours beforehand will help loosen the bolts. And greasing the spindles is definitely recommended. Put it back together, and you're ready to go!
Just please remember, that this size of mower is heavy. If it falls, it can hurt you. So be careful, and take your time, be safe, those you love are counting on you! Happy Mowing!
#17
M
motoman
M
motoman
Due respect. Hammer blows can apply over or under torque. Use a torque wrench . Another frequent discussion is lubrication of the blade retaining bolts. I can only speak of the experience with the Craftsman DYT 4000 , ? about grade 6 alloy bolts, but I clean the threads and sometimes spray them with WD 40 and WIPE THEM DRY.
To put grease or aniti seize on such a fastener you should know to reduce the apparent torque (measured on torque wrench, unknown by hand or hammer) or risk over stretching the fastener beyond yield strength and necking/breaking it. Think of your car wheel studs. Lubricating them is no-no unless you want to see your wheel accelerate by your car on the road.
The only mystery I have encountered on this site and was never really answered (for me) is the torque required and applied to some commercial rigs where owner/mechanics use high powered air hammers to remove (somewhat understood), AND to tighten (not understood if it is just judgement). But the people who discussed this technique are professionals and so deserve respect which I have. BLAZ..can't we renew an old and favorite topic? :laughing:
To put grease or aniti seize on such a fastener you should know to reduce the apparent torque (measured on torque wrench, unknown by hand or hammer) or risk over stretching the fastener beyond yield strength and necking/breaking it. Think of your car wheel studs. Lubricating them is no-no unless you want to see your wheel accelerate by your car on the road.
The only mystery I have encountered on this site and was never really answered (for me) is the torque required and applied to some commercial rigs where owner/mechanics use high powered air hammers to remove (somewhat understood), AND to tighten (not understood if it is just judgement). But the people who discussed this technique are professionals and so deserve respect which I have. BLAZ..can't we renew an old and favorite topic? :laughing:
#18
BlazNT
BlazNT
Old topics don't die they just wait to be spoken of again.:laughing: