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My 115 series riding mower doesn't want to start. The battery was bad so I replaced it thinking that was the problem.It wasn't.
I can take a screwdriver and jump the starter solenoid it starts ok. I checked the fuse and it was ok also. Not sure what I need to start checking or testing to see what may be wrong. Any ideas? Testing procedures,etc. I'm thinking it''s the solenoid.

Kev7274 said:

My 115 series riding mower doesn't want to start. The battery was bad so I replaced it thinking that was the problem.It wasn't.
I can take a screwdriver and jump the starter solenoid it starts ok. I checked the fuse and it was ok also. Not sure what I need to start checking or testing to see what may be wrong. Any ideas? Testing procedures,etc. I'm thinking it''s the solenoid.

Click to expand...

Chec your ignition switch that all the wires are connected

After checking the ignition switch, this procedure may help you go farther if that is not the problem.



Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
All looks ok. 13.06 volts

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Ok,13.06 volts

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Ok,13.06 volts on terminal.

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?
0 volts with key in start position.

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?
0 volts at starter.

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
All is ok.

That tells me you have a bad solenoid, which needs to be replaced.

Rivets said:

That tells me you have a bad solenoid, which needs to be replaced.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the help.

Solenoid didnt make a difference,still wont start.Whats next?

chance123 said:

Chec your ignition switch that all the wires are connected

Click to expand...

Any way to check it? Wires all look good.

Do you have the two big terminals, and two small terminals or just one small terminal. If one small terminal that it could be a bad ground at the solenoid. if two small terminals could be a safety switch. the four terminal solenoids normally have the safety swithes on the other small terminal, and you will still have power to the other small terminal in the start position.

ILENGINE said:

Do you have the two big terminals, and two small terminals or just one small terminal. If one small terminal that it could be a bad ground at the solenoid. if two small terminals could be a safety switch. the four terminal solenoids normally have the safety swithes on the other small terminal, and you will still have power to the other small terminal in the start position.

Click to expand...

I have two big terminals and two small terminals. I don't hear anything clicking,there is a relay also near the solenoid.

I would bet that either the pto safety switch or the clutch switch is the problem. could be a corroded terminal in one of the connectors, or the switch itself. The small terminal that doesn't have voltage will be wired through the safety switches to complete the start circuit.

Take a ohm meter on connect the red lead to the wire without power, make sure you don't have power first, and the other lead to ground. If you don't have continuity that is were the problem is someplace in the wire circuit.

You got it,it was the clutch safety switch.
I had to pry the clutch switch off the harness plug due to it being so corroded. The terminals on the switch and the connections on the harness was full of corrosion. One of the wires broke off and I really wasn't really putting any tension on it. I took a closer look at the wire and it had corrosion on it as well underneath the covering.

Since I wasn't getting power to any of the small terminals,I applied 12v to the small ignition terminal,the engine started. I traced the purple wire due to it not having any power to it. It lead me to the clutch switch and then I found all the corrosion.

Just have to order a new switch and a new harness and all should be good. Thanks for the help.

Update: Can't seem to just find that connector. Looks like you have to buy the whole harness.which I'm not. Maybe I can find one made for something else that may work.
It looks like they are just spade connectors inside the harness connector. I may be able to make my own harness.

Any Briggs dealer with the engine repower kit will have all the connectors you need to make a new harness. I change about 50 connectors a year due to corrosion and other problems. Built a complete harness for a skid steer back in January when going from a Kohler Magnum 18 to a Kohler Command ch20.