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18 HP Koehler command on a husqvarna YTH 18. All of a sudden it just stopped dead in its tracks, no noise, no smoke, no nothing.? Couldn’t turn the engine over at all. It’s like it seized up, took the spark plugs out and still could not get that crank to move. had a guy come out and look at it and he said it might be the electric clutch?? He said take the nut off at the bottom of the pulley and see if you can turn the engine that way if you can then it’s probably the electric clutch..when it goes bad it locks up the engine. Any thoughts??

Don't you just love those just guess at things.

Really need to whole model number of the mower.

As for electric clutches, yes the bearing can go bad and lock-up an engine. But just removing the retaining screw won't help if the bearing is bad the clutch is keyed to crankshaft. It has to be completely removed; although, a good mower tech can test things just check simple things like temporary removing the PTO anti rotation bracket. No cranking as if the wires are still attached they can be ripped out. You also can actually have an engine seizure.

Get a real lawnmower mechanic to look at it if you are not capable of the troubleshooting.

DJames said:

18 HP Koehler command on a husqvarna YTH 18. All of a sudden it just stopped dead in its tracks, no noise, no smoke, no nothing.? Couldn’t turn the engine over at all. It’s like it seized up, took the spark plugs out and still could not get that crank to move. had a guy come out and look at it and he said it might be the electric clutch?? He said take the nut off at the bottom of the pulley and see if you can turn the engine that way if you can then it’s probably the electric clutch..when it goes bad it locks up the engine. Any thoughts??

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What site can I go to to get an explosion view of my husqvarna YTH 18 kohler command 18hp engine?? Can anyone suggest one?

Ever thought about answering Star’s request for engine numbers? He’s a hell of a lot smarter than you if you are asking how to find websites.

There are some of the mowers that has YTH 18 as part of their model number.

And the Jonsered YTH 18 IPL doesn't even list the model/spec of the engine.

And according to the Kohler dealer site there are 52 CV18 specs and that is just the older Command engines.

Rivets said:

Ever thought about answering Star’s request for engine numbers? He’s a hell of a lot smarter than you if you are asking how to find websites.

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Rivets said:

Ever thought about answering Star’s request for engine numbers? He’s a hell of a lot smarter than you if you are asking how to find websites.

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Rivets said:

Ever thought about answering Star’s request for engine numbers? He’s a hell of a lot smarter than you if you are asking how to find websites.

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Family-SKH 62441G2 RB
SER #-2825916331
Mod-YTH 180
Ser # 092198A001428
Mfg ID# 954140010G
Prod # 954-14-00-10

Thanks everyone for ur help & suggestions

I just want to be able to find an explosion view of the entire engine W/ parts list & im just not finding ANYTHING adequate, not even close. Why is something so simple yet so hard to find, I’ll fix the damn thing myself if I can just find what I’m looking for

OK the 2825916331 serial number comes back to a CV18S-61533

DJames said:

I just want to be able to find an explosion view of the entire engine W/ parts list & im just not finding ANYTHING adequate, not even close. Why is something so simple yet so hard to find, I’ll fix the damn thing myself if I can just find what I’m looking for

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Please you got to be patient with us as some of us like myself run our own shops so we not just sitting by computer 24/7. IL like myself is probably snow bound at the moment. At least the roads here have cleared but I got watch out for the black ice in the morning as I go out for food and it will below 20F so I don't want get into a wreck.

You just got know where to look once you have the correct info. It like I have a Chevy but without the model and year. Even then in the glovebox is a detail options list of code numbers for 2000 model. Many of us have spent years looking up parts but even we need the basic info to work from.

And most online parts lookup you drop the "S" from CV18S-61533 so you look up CV18-61533.

StarTech said:

Please you got to be patient with us as some of us like myself run our own shops so we not just sitting by computer 24/7. IL like myself is probably snow bound at the moment. At least the roads here have cleared but I got watch out for the black ice in the morning as I go out for food and it will below 20F so I don't want get into a wreck.

You just got know where to look once you have the correct info. It like I have a Chevy but without the model and year. Even then in the glovebox is a detail options list of code numbers for 2000 model. Many of us have spent years looking up parts but even we need the basic info to work from.

And most online parts lookup you drop the "S" from CV18S-61533 so you look up CV18-61533.

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I’m sorry u took that personal, wasn’t aimed at all you fine folks who deal in these matters, I was referring to trying to find some online site thru my browser, you never get what your looking for, it drives you crazy. Thank you for getting back to me & im sure I’ll find something to work with sooner or later. Hope you get thru all this weather mess, my problems are minimal compared to everyone else. It’ll get better

ILENGINE said:

OK the 2825916331 serial number comes back to a CV18S-61533

https://www.partstree.com/models/cv...-made-for-american-yard-products-,18hp-13-4kw

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Thank you ILENGINE, I’ll give the site a look see. TYVM

The inconvenience of some and ice is nothing compared to those that lost everything in the hurricane and now the LA fires.
I got a fellow that is in the middle the fires. 7 miles West of one but the bigger one and it moving East. Sure hope it misses him or at least get out safely.

StarTech said:

The inconvenience of some and ice is nothing compared to those that lost everything in the hurricane and now the LA fires.
I got a fellow that is in the middle the fires. 7 miles West of one but the bigger one and it moving East. Sure hope it misses him or at least get out safely.

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All these fires were set deliberately, the pacific palisades were destined to be 15 min cities so the deep state could imprison us with the approval of the present administration..You’ll find out soon enough.

This thread is going into too much politics and should be closed. The Grinch.

Like it or not it involves you, us, everyone. Do what you feel is necessary

remove the clutch, or at least the bracket that holds it from rotating and see if it moves a little bit, like mentioned, watch out for the wires attached to the clutch coil. This will tell you if it is the motor or the clutch. sometimes when the clutch locks up and the motor stops fast, it can damage the flywheel and destroy the key/keyway which will keep it from starting once you get it free'd up.

DJames said:

All these fires were set deliberately, the pacific palisades were destined to be 15 min cities so the deep state could imprison us with the approval of the present administration..You’ll find out soon enough.

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Stop trying to make this political. Polities has no business being involved during things like this. What if your home was destroyed by a tornado or hurricane would you still be saying someone intentionally did it?

BTW if you know these were set deliberately, you must be the one that deliberately set them. So maybe they need to be tracking your butt down.

Look fires do not have to be set intentionally. 50+ mph winds can and do create problems from a single spark sometimes. During extreme dry windy conditions all it takes is someone tossing a light cigarette, an arc from power lines slapping each other, a glass bottle acting like a magnifying glass, someone cutting a field where the equipment blade strikes a rock, etc. All unintentional but just a bad as if someone was intentional starting a fire. In this case so far you can rule out lightning strikes as no storms were in the area, just the strong wind event.

Even in North Alabama we had road side fires started by cigarettes fanned by passing vehicles during the dry fall weather. And yes sometimes we have fire bugs setting them too. I personally got a couple caught by taking down the license plate number and describing how they were setting the fires. A forester on patrol finally caught them red handed per say a week later.

I also seen power lines slapping each in high winds in my area. This was the source of many of my power outages. Once I discover the area I called my electric company engineering person and with my help we got the problem resolved by adding an pole in the high wind area of the lines.

We have to let the investigators do their job before saying it was intentional started. They have pinpoint the area of the initial fire now it is on hands and knees searching the area. These guys are good at their job but it still takes time.

They also got to make some changes to the building codes that will make the homes and businesses more fire resistant. Can't have open attics that invite embers in. It is using real wire screens over these openings.

jimvw57 said:

remove the clutch, or at least the bracket that holds it from rotating and see if it moves a little bit, like mentioned, watch out for the wires attached to the clutch coil. This will tell you if it is the motor or the clutch. sometimes when the clutch locks up and the motor stops fast, it can damage the flywheel and destroy the key/keyway which will keep it from starting once you get it free'd up.

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Thank you Jim, I’ll do just that.. I appreciate it very much

Here's the service manual for that series engine....https://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/tp_2339_d.pdf

Freddie21 said:

Here's the service manual for that series engine....https://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/tp_2339_d.pdf

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Thanks Fred

If the clutch is locked up, couldnt you just take the belts off it and see if the motor will turn to know if its the clutch or not?

callwill said:

If the clutch is locked up, couldn't you just take the belts off it and see if the motor will turn to know if its the clutch or not?

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No.

I have a John Deer that just stopped running. I thought the engine was locked up but I was wrong. It was the clutch that was locked up. Replaced clutch and it’s still running today.

The clutch has two bearings. One is in the pulley so it can stop what every it is driving. The other is in the stationary housing This bearing centers the clutch and allows the crank to turn without turning the housing and tearing off the electric feed to the clutch coil.
If the second bearing locks up it will either stop the engine or tear the antirotation device off the tractor which also tears the wires up.
You have a few areas that can lock up an engine,
External.
1. electric clutch
2 magnets came loose inside the flywheel wedging between the flywheel and the stator coil.
3 Ignition magnet came off the flywheel and locked against the ignition coil
Internal
1 a main bearing seized
2 a rod bearing seized -- usually the rod will break and open an inspection hole in the block
3 a piston seized in the bore
4 a valve dropped and the piston hit it breaking and expanding the piston.

There may be other things that would lock an engine but these are the most often causes.

You said there was no noise or other sign of a fault. Allow me to tell a story of my time as a service person.
A tractor with a twin cylinder engine came in for a tune up. The customer said it has been running ok but lately seems to be low power. So we began the tune up and noticed one plug was wet and firing. Stuck a screw driver in the plug hole turned the flywheel and the piston did not move. Asked the customer if he had heard any noise or felt any different vibration and he replied "No, it just doesn't seem to have the power it used to". With his ok I tore the engine down and found one broken connecting rod and an inspection hole in the block.

I think you're jumping the gun with an engine diagram. First, determine what's is obvious as being wrong and go from there. Once you see damage, then you'll figure wither you want to tear the whole engine apart, or not.

Remove the spark plug, try rocking the flywheel back and forth and watch the whole PTO clutch to see if only the top is rocking, or top, bottom and deck belt. If everything is rocking, the clutch may be frozen. Unplug the clutch cable and remove the anti-rotation bracket, or pin. If you can rotate it now, going slow, then you should remove the clutch and the upper pulleys. At his point you could install the plug and try with the starter. Maybe even starting.

If the clutch is not frozen, remove the valve cover and inspect the push rods for being in place and check the looseness of the rockers. You may have a rod out and\or bent. If all this looks good, you should remove the head, but you won't see much. At this point, it's probable internal, like a broken piston push rod or even more.

Now is when you will decide wither to continue, or not. If you continue, you'll need to have the parts breakdown and figure out what's needed and it's price. If may be more feasible to find a replacement used motor. That engine type is readily found for a descent price.

Has anyone checked the oil level in the sump? Remove the filler neck cap, wipe clean, place cap on the filler. Remove cap and inspect oil level. If no oil showing, odds are not in your favor of a pleasant surprise outcome.
Removing the cooling shrouds will make access to the flywheel easier so you can manually attempt to rotate the crankshaft while poking around with the electric clutch. I think I would also remove the spark plug wire, and maybe the spark plug, too.
Just because.
tom

andrewslarge said:

I have a John Deer that just stopped running. I thought the engine was locked up but I was wrong. It was the clutch that was locked up. Replaced clutch and it’s still running today.

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Good helpful info, thanks Andrew

bentrim said:

The clutch has two bearings. One is in the pulley so it can stop what every it is driving. The other is in the stationary housing This bearing centers the clutch and allows the crank to turn without turning the housing and tearing off the electric feed to the clutch coil.
If the second bearing locks up it will either stop the engine or tear the antirotation device off the tractor which also tears the wires up.
You have a few areas that can lock up an engine,
External.
1. electric clutch
2 magnets came loose inside the flywheel wedging between the flywheel and the stator coil.
3 Ignition magnet came off the flywheel and locked against the ignition coil
Internal
1 a main bearing seized
2 a rod bearing seized -- usually the rod will break and open an inspection hole in the block
3 a piston seized in the bore
4 a valve dropped and the piston hit it breaking and expanding the piston.

There may be other things that would lock an engine but these are the most often causes.

You said there was no noise or other sign of a fault. Allow me to tell a story of my time as a service person.
A tractor with a twin cylinder engine came in for a tune up. The customer said it has been running ok but lately seems to be low power. So we began the tune up and noticed one plug was wet and firing. Stuck a screw driver in the plug hole turned the flywheel and the piston did not move. Asked the customer if he had heard any noise or felt any different vibration and he replied "No, it just doesn't seem to have the power it used to". With his ok I tore the engine down and found one broken connecting rod and an inspection hole in the block.

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Also great info, very helpful, thank you Bentrim

I know nothing about the engine, but do want to say that I am incredibly impressed by the shop owners who take the time to read about people's plights and offer great suggestions and information.

DinosaurMike said:

I know nothing about the engine, but do want to say that I am incredibly impressed by the shop owners who take the time to read about people's plights and offer great suggestions and information.

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I agree 100% Mike