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Have Lawn mowers, Zero turn mower, JD Gator and all at one time or another have had seat cushion come unglued from shell. Tried to glue back and have had none keep glued very long. This seems a problem with ALL BRANDS and EQUIPMENT. Is it built in to every manufacturer game plan to sell more replacement seats? Or a problem they can't or won't fix? Seems no one on this forum will talk about it. As did a search and nothing came up. If you have solved this problem or have found a glue that will hold, please let to know. I have what may be a solution, but am reluctant to do it. That is put holes thru the cushion, drill holes in the shell and use zip ties to secure cushion to shell. Those zip ties rank right up there with duct tape in holding things together.

You say:
Seems no one on this forum will talk about it.

Not a fun project but
I'm not too ashamed to talk about trying to save $200-300 on a wimpy good for nothing REPALCEMENT seat.
I've done the following to my own tractor seats, varies with type of seat but if it's someone else's I do not bother. they can take care of their own.

If the plastic cover is still ok and just the foam unglued from the bottom and hangs out when the seat is tilted forward and the back of the seat has the drain hole at the rear portion right where it curves I just use a 1 inch wide nylon strap and go front to rear on the bottom and secure.

If it's the foam backing coming loose all around the seat and the foam cover is still good (useable) I get couple tubes of SHOE GOO from Amazon in black or clear and apply heavy coat around the edges squirting it back between as far as I can then use furniture clamps with wood backing blocks to just hole the foam seat in place for 24 hours. I do not distort the foam cushion when clamping just enough clamp to hold the seat cushion in place.
SHOE GOO pack of 2 $14.96 at Amazon Prime
Tough stuff and will hold if you do your part.

When all is bad I remove all down to metal and clean the metal then I take some foam padding, contact cement, and Indoor/outdoor carpet and re-cover all of the seat cutting the carpet large enough to cover all the seat including the back. I've got some of these seats that are 5 years old and stay outside year round and still A-ok.
Contact cement has got pricy in last couple years but price is starting to slowly come down. It will take at least a 1/2 quart usually. Put the carpet on while the glue is still wet, have trim scissors handy and the carpet glues good to itself at the overlaps, no clamping required just keep working out the wrinkles before the glue grabs permanently. Let dry 24 hours.

Some of the seats that I'm doing cost around $200-300 for replacement.

Lowes sells some nice looking JD Yellow seat covers that will fit over some lawn tractor seats and help to save plus can also be used to cover a glued seat, BUT you have to be careful and get the correct size cover. (one size does not fit all) I've got a Case 448 that I did not want the JD seat cover yeller on my case so I found a Grey cover (lo back type) on-line, but I keep the case covered out of the weather.

When I take in salvage mowers if the seat is good I remove the seat and store inside. Some of the Cub Cadet replacement seats are pricy.

Yes. new replacement lawn tractor seats are pricy and not built to last very very long especially if left exposed to the weather.

Gil said:

Have Lawn mowers, Zero turn mower, JD Gator and all at one time or another have had seat cushion come unglued from shell

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Typical JD problem.

Gil said:

Tried to glue back and have had none keep glued very long.

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What glue was used? There are better ways than simple glue. As in Loctite I think it is has a foam safe caulking. Works wonders on anything with foam. Look for something that won't burn the foam away. Clean the pan with foaming glass cleaner. Slather on the caulk with a putty knife. Apply duct tape to hold the foam to the pan while curing. Never worry about it again.

Also most people store the mowers outside in the rain, sleet, snow, sun, tornadoes and so on. Hard to keep a seat looking good like that.

So we got Loctite brand adhesive, and Shoe Goo so far. This is both a good, and legitimate question and concern that I have yet to successfully tackle and solve the problem myself. The foam is porous and the plastic seat is plastic so you adhering two completely different types of materials.

If a person will do the SHOE GOO and go all around the edge of the seat with a good bead BEFORE the plastic and foam completely breaks off and gets really bad.
The seats FOAM/PLASTIC Cub Cadet/craftsman plastic over foam I've seen when they first start is the bottom sides and front of the seat at bottom foam starts coming loose and the plastic cover still good at first, but if ignored they just get worse and when the seat is tilted forward the bottom of the seat just flops forward the back still attached somewhat.
I've removed the seat from the tractor and taken the shoe goo and place a good bead all around the edge of the plastic and foam and clamp the seat until the bead dries. I leave a small opening in the front as a drain hole in case the seat gets rained on while tilted forward.

Some seats are just too bad (been ignored too long) for the bead around the edge only method.

Repairs vary by the territory.

I use a silicon based construction glue as well
However I have found that it works best if you remove the seat, do the base first then do the back

Tiger Small Engine said:

So we got Loctite brand adhesive, and Shoe Goo so far. This is both a good, and legitimate question and concern that I have yet to successfully tackle and solve the problem myself. The foam is porous and the plastic seat is plastic so you adhering two completely different types of materials.

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Show Goo will or might burn the foam, I don't know for sure, never used it on this fix.

I know that Loctite foam safe caulk is the cats meow for installing foam acoustical tiles. Guys here used to use that 3m spray adhesive. Lasted about 2 months till the tiles fell down. The Loctite is still holding after 7+ years. Now on to the next issue.

Plastic seat pan was mentioned. Whole 'nother can of juice. Some or most plastics are very slick and most adhesives will not stick to said plastics. As in HDPE for one to watch out for.

Now on to silicone caulks. Most have vinegar as a curing agent. That funky smell...... Vinegar being acidic, don't know if this is the best tool for the job, myself. ???? Never used it due to the possible foam burning issue.

Then we have the fabulous idea Bert had, use a boat seat. Reasonably priced and UV protection galore.

The plastic I was referring to was the plastic seat cover, not the seat pan.
The seat pans that I have tackled are metal.

The shoe goo does not burn the foam. It's tough stuff and will adhere to most anything and remains little bit pliable.

It appears that the locktite PL300 would be good on a completely loose seat foam and then after it's set up do the shoe goo around the outer edges. (the shoe goo will help keep water fron getting under the edge of the foam where the aged plastic cover has left a gap at the edge pf the metal seat pan.
At least the locktite is reasonably priced, for now.
I do see in reviews that it's recommended to store the PL300 tube upside down to prevent a liquid from squirting out first and to keep a heads up on new tubes due to no good out of the tube sometimes. (probably old stuff)

If I have any shoe goo left over in a tube I just store the remaining in the fridge and it's stays ok for several months. It's main purpose is for gluing on shoe/boot soles, so it's flexible and tough stuff.

But if you are into commercial mowing and using your mower everyday and riding her hard and putting it away wet, just whip and the plastic and go buy a new seat that is designed for everyday rough use, like a backhoe seat and get arm rests or just wait awhile and get a lawn mower that is self driving and does not require a seat or a operator.
(a drone type lawn mower)