Sorry if this post is not exactly on topic, but I ran into this issue while working on a lawnmower engine. I pulled out my Sears Craftsman micradjusting torque wrench (makes a click when you hit the right torque) and it was totally jammed - would not click and the adjusting handle would not turn. The last time it was used was decades ago when I lent it to someone. That'll teach me to do that! This would have been an issue years ago when all Craftsman tools had a lifetime warranty. Do they still honor that?
#2
7394
The "Clicker" type torque wrenches require re calibration from time to time.. If that is not none, they are not accurate.. Throw it away.
I have clickers & beam style that never require re calibration..
But FWIW: Craftsman still has lifetime warranty, Ace hardware, Walmart & Lowes now carry the tools & the warranty..
Watch out, 1- only basic tools have lifetime, this tool currently does NOT have lifetime from its moving parts. You might have to argue if yours was sold with lifetime but you don't have the original package showing such. 2- Lowes told me if they don't sell it, they will not replace it.
#4
7394
Interesting, my local Lowes has replaced some vintage broken craftsman sockets for me, no questions asked..
And on the subject of tension wrenches.
Deflecting bar type remain in calibration for a very long time.
Micrometer adjustment spring loaded types suffer from wear and settlement of the spring.
What most forget to do is this type MUST BE BACKED OFF TO 0 when you have finished using them, EVERY TIME.
#6
cpurvis
Sears quit doing the lifetime warranty on the torque wrenches years ago. I had to take mine back and the new one came with a 60 day warranty.
I have a Snap-on which I use all the time. Never had a problem. This is a comparable model, as mine is able 12 years old. Remember you get what you pay for, but I’m working in a shop. https://shop.snapon.com/product/TECH2FR100
Yes, it is digital. As stated in the website I posted LED READINGS plus vibration. Going digital is over, over kill unless you are using it at least once a week. You can get a very reliable click type at 1/3 the cost, which will last your lifetime if maintained properly and in the hand of nonprofessional mechanics they are more accurate.
#12
7394
Rivets- What is your opinion of beam style torque wrenches ?
Beam style work very well and are accurate in the hands of a steady mechanic. That’s all we had to use for a long time. Problem I have seen with them is if you stop before you get to your specific torque you “should” loosen and start over. They wavering beam is tough to keep steady, which means starting over many times in untrained hands. It would take my students dozens of try’s to get proper torque. Clicks and digital allow you to concentrate on using steady pressure, without having to watch a moving beam.
Ok thanks. Any way you could send a link to a decent one? The 2 I have are a dial type which I hate lol and a click type from autozone and I never set it to 0 after I finished. Wasn't thinking about leaving tension on it. Seems like with the click type, i have a hard time feeling that give under light ft lb applications.
#15
7394
Thank You Rivets, I have 2 beam (3/8" & 1/2") & a 1/2" drive clicker.
They are quite old & have been serving me well. The clicker I had checked about 5 yrs ago. As I always wind it down after use.
Sorry, the only one I have had experience with is my Snap-on. Won’t recommend any tools I have not tried, would be a disservice to everyone. Remember you get what you pay for. Don’t know if you need a Ft. Lb. or In. Lb wrench, but unless you are working on large equipment In Lb wrenches go up to about 22 Ft Lb if you know how to convert.
Oh ok thanks. Basically what I'm wanting is a torque wrench in the 5 - 80 ft lb range. I found one 2.2 - 65 but I need one up to at least 80. I could get one that does in lbs for smaller stuff.
It also seems to be getting where there are a lot of torque specs on lawnmower engines that are in in/lb that are outside the range that most in/lb torque wrenches can adjust. Of course you can convert to ft/lb but for every 1 ft/lb that your torque wrench is off is 12 in/lb of inaccurate torque applied. Very common to see in/lb torque specs of 325-375 or in some cases that I work on is 450-700 in/lb.
The newest thing coming on lawnmower engines is angular torque specs. Example like 250 in/lb + 30 degrees.
I have noticed that. Alot of specs seem to be in in lbs. My clicker does 150 I think but when I'm doing low ft lbs I barely even notice it give. Think I need a smaller one. I was interested in digital but idk what ones are good. I've saw them on amazon and ebay.
I have noticed that. Alot of specs seem to be in in lbs. My clicker does 150 I think but when I'm doing low ft lbs I barely even notice it give. Think I need a smaller one. I was interested in digital but idk what ones are good. I've saw them on amazon and ebay.
The new sump gasket for the V twin intek style engines have a 375 in/lb torque. Was working on a Kohler not too long ago with a head torque of 325 in/lb, and the Hydrogear transaxle I rebuilt for a customer back in January was a 480 in/lb torque. Briggs announced at their last dealer update that some of their fasteners would be using an angular torque rating.
It is like doing standard torque like you do now, but after reaching the designed torque then you turn the bolt an additional amount of angle. So what is now 250 in/lb may become 135 in/lb then turn an additional 30 degrees.
FWIW I have 5 tension wrenches
The small ones 4', 6" & 10" are all Warren & Browns
These are deflecting bar type with a spring loaded clicker.
Best of both worlds.
The square drive comes out so you flip it over for doing LH threads.
Every now & then the tool shops down here run a tension wrench checking day
I am sure they would do the same over there as well.
Generally in conjunction with a promo for an overpriced "avaition grade" wrench so take advantage of them to get yours checked.
All of mine are +/- 5% for accuracy & 100% for repeatibility which is fine because published tension numbers are nearly always for brand new dry bolts in virgin holes, a situation which we never ever see in practice.
A small ward of warning here for those who do not do this daily.
Always double check the conditions because some times the torques are for "Lightly oiled threads in clean holes" and occasionally for "bolts with locktite "
For bigger jobs there is a standard 18" two way defecting bar that you have to watch the pointer but when you are doing 80 to 160 ft lbs, watching the needle is not so much of a problem
After that there is the 24" one which is micrometer adjustment spring loaded one.
Can't remember the last time I used it, not much gets done up better than 150 ft/lbs.
What I was always taught was to use the correct size tools and this applies double for tension wrenches. the upper & lower 10 % should never be used as they are not accurate enough at either end of their scales.
Also +/- 10% is not a problem as what is usually most important for the jobs most do most often, is that all of the fasteners are done up to the SAME torque this is vital for heads & cases if you want a leak free engine.
#27
7394
To the OP- Local Auto Parts stores have tool loaner programs.. You leave a deposit, borrow tool you need, then return for your money back..
