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Hi everyone. I bought a used scag wildcat zero turn. I changed all the fluids and replaced the battery and everything was running good. Then the last time I mowed when I shut the key off something kept running. The motor shutoff but something else was running maybe starter or pump of some sort. I switched the key back and forth a couple times and it stopped. Then the next time I went to start it the engine didn't crank and the thing that was running before started running and when I turned the key off it kept running again. I switched the key back and forth a couple times and it stopped. I replaced the ignition switch today and it still keeps happening. Sometimes it will start the engine but most of the time just something electrical starts running and doesn't stop until I switch the key back and forth a couple times. I'm lost. Any help would be great. Thanks

Hello & WELCOME to these Forums...
Do it again and follow the sound... it Should lead you to something, either take a picture of it OR describe what it looks like... we Should be able to tell you what it is and why it is making any sound. Post back with what you find...
you should not replace parts Unless something is actually wrong with a part, there is a Great chance of getting the Wrong part OR a part that is defective... :smile:KennyV

The only thing that could "run" would be the starter motor. The start circuit relay which is near the keyswitch and the starter solenoid are the major players in the starting circuit and could possibly cause the starter motor to keep running. There is no electric fuel pump unless someone installed one and/or the engine has been replaced with an engine with electronic fuel injection.
The serial number of the machine and the engine model number would be helpful for any of us to assist you in troubleshooting your machine.
Mad Mackie in CT

The model number to the mower is STWC61A-27CV. I'll
Get the one to the engine when I get home. I looked at the wiring diagram from the owners manual and my wiring has been "modified" by someone. Where the 20 amp fuse should be and where the relay should be the wires are cut off and electrical taped. Maybe I'll take that tape off and see what's going on. Thanks for
The help guys.

Well if I tap on the solenoid I can get it to crank. Then I'll
Mow for a minute and hit a bump and it'll **** off. I'm gonna take the starter off and see if there's a bad connection. I can't find the model number on the motor anywhere. It's a 27hp kohler command

Who knows what has been done to the electrical system, but you need to find out or you will be chasing problems all over your machine!!!

The ground wire between the solenoid and the started wasn't connected very well so I messed with that and it started right up and I mowed almost the whole yard then it shut off. I got my charger and the battery was completely dead. So what charges the battery? I think that may be the problem.

There were 4 wires taped together coming out of the motor before the wire plug to the harness. I separated them. the red wire that comes out of the same spot as the blue wire that goes to the solenoid is going to the dsai modules. The other red wire that comes out of the same spot as the purple is going to the carb. Now it starts in start but when the key kicks back to run it dies immediately. So maybe a picture of the plug and the wires coming off of it would be of help. I think I read a post by mad mackie about something like this. What part of the engine needs constant juice to run? Could this be a problem with the ignition module?

I know this is an older post so I hope someone is still following. I have a scag wildcat 52" (prior 2011 model, I will get a VIN asap) with a similar issue. Same thing where someone previous did play with some wiring. My issue is that I have intermittent power to the blade pull switch and NO power at all with the key in any position. When I say no "power" I mean that it is dead and does NOTHING...I replaced the ignition and clean all connections, replaced both fuzes, checked all safety switches for continuity (all came back good), I haven't found any wires so far grounding out or that are severed. There is a ballast resistor I believe that it on the side of the engine next to the starter, checked it for continuity and it has it. There is something similar (some type of resistor or module?) on the left side if you are sitting on the mower that has about 8-10 wires going into it and it is sealed with a gel/tar. I believe it is number 17 on page 66 of this manual. Is there a way to test it? What problems could that part produce?

http://www.scag.com/OPManuals/STWC/2011STWCOPMAN/STWC_Book_03273 Rev2.pdf

Also, number 9 in the same picture is a relay. Might be having issues with it, maybe not. I made jumper wires and wired around it in efforts to get off a job site with intermittent success so it leads me to think it might not be an issue... I have to admit that I am totally lost here... Has anyone had similar issues? Thanks in advance!

Mad Mackie said:

Who knows what has been done to the electrical system, but you need to find out or you will be chasing problems all over your machine!!!

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I'm in agreement with Mackie..... being a former electrician I personally know the nightmares of
electrical engineering by misguided Mr. fix-its .... either get the CORRECT wiring diagram and replace
the necessary wiring or.... BEST bet is a replacement electrical harness .. NEW or USED !! sounds
expensive and a lot of work .....but it actually pays-off in the long run ..check E-bay for used or even a local dealer may have one off a unit that was scrapped ......... I feel for ya brother !! ...Boobala ..:thumbsup:

Being a retired controls electrician for me it would be much easier to find a problem if diagrams were in ladder format instead of wiring diagrams. It would be simple left to right instead of going around in circles.

NorthBama said:

Being a retired controls electrician for me it would be much easier to find a problem if diagrams were in ladder format instead of wiring diagrams. It would be simple left to right instead of going around in circles.

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I agree with you so much on that. It would be so much easier and you could actually see what wire actually connects to what... not just a bulk of wires goes from A to B.

macelandscaping said:

I agree with you so much on that. It would be so much easier and you could actually see what wire actually connects to what... not just a bulk of wires goes from A to B.

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and also could tell what is normally open contacts and normally closed contacts. Also mark those modules to show what is input voltage and what is output voltage.

NorthBama said:

and also could tell what is normally open contacts and normally closed contacts. Also mark those modules to show what is input voltage and what is output voltage.

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SORRY you guys .... Wish in 1 hand ...& Sheet in the other ... see which one 1 fills up first !!

We have to work with what they give us ... I used to really appreciate the entire Manual, and especially the color wiring diagrams ..laid out EXACTLY as you said ...in the HELM's ORIGINAL Factory Manuals that were written for General Motors dealerships service centers....THOSE are the manuals where those Blue MOTOR's Manuals ( you may remember those ) got their information from !! NOW those HELM's folks... were Technical writing GURU's

Sadly ... I think such dedication and expertise has, & is dying off with the Baby-Boomer Generation .
Just my opinion ..but things have changed & NOT always for the better . ...Boobala ..:frown: