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I didn't want to jump into others that seem to have this problem so I started my own thread. My freedom Z is now just out of warranty with 37 hours on it. It's in the G19 serial number series. Has the Kawasaki 600 motor. Last year under warranty I replaced the starter solenoid as that had gone bad. With that you could hear the relay click but it wouldn't start. Dealer had a new and improved relay as the original was a known problem. Now when I turn the key there is no clicking down on the starter relay. In fact there is no clicking anywhere. I jumped the 2 posts with a screw driver and it starts and runs well. I saw on other threads about a relay next to the starter switch. I pulled the starter panel and don't see a safety relay on this mower under the starter panel. There are 2 20 amp fuses next to the box and they are both good. I keep the mower on a battery tender 24/7 so I know the battery is not the issue. Probably a safety switch some where. Any guidance on how to proceed with my multimeter?

Check the small terminals on the solenoid
From memory yours is the 4 terminal type.
If so check for 12V ( to an earth point ) when you turn the key to Start
Then check for continuity to earth on the other terminal when the key goes to start.
No 12 V then you are looking at the wire that goes from the S terminal on the ignition switch to the PTO switch then from the PTO switch to the brake switch ( on the lap bars or parking brake or both ) and then from there to the start solenoid.
Easiest to go from the solenoid back.
If no earth continuity then you are looking at the lap bars, Parking brake & seat switch

Make sure that you have the correct wiring diagram, print, scan or copy it.
Trace the green wire from the start solenoid back to the keyswitch. More than likely your problem is in this circuit.
Freedom Zs don't have the cranking relay or the electronic control module. Each switch on the levers, parking brake and seat switch has two electrical circuits and are dual switches.
When you "jump" the solenoid are you applying 12 volts to the green wire terminal?

Mad Mackie said:

Make sure that you have the correct wiring diagram, print, scan or copy it.
Trace the green wire from the start solenoid back to the keyswitch. More than likely your problem is in this circuit.
Freedom Zs don't have the cranking relay or the electronic control module. Each switch on the levers, parking brake and seat switch has two electrical circuits and are dual switches.
When you "jump" the solenoid are you applying 12 volts to the green wire terminal?

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No I just jumped the 2 large posts on the solenoid that has the rubber covers on them. There are 2 additional small posts but I didn't touch those.

Thanks for everyones input. Will look at it today.

I have the green wire diagram and want to confirm the lap bars, seat switch, start switch and pto switch logic which is on this circuit. Is there a break in continuity at each switch between the 2 green wires at that particular terminal say when you're off the seat, lap bars folded in and pto engaged? This open green wire circuit at any of these position won't allow a start? Is this correct?
Thanks

Update: I think I may have found it. The PTO switch has 2 green wires going into it and when using a multimeter and the beeper signaling a closed circuit, I get an open circuit no mater what position the PTO switch is in when touching the 2 green terminals on the back of the PTO switch. My logic thinks when the switch is pushed in, the circuit should be closed for the green wire circuit. I first used this test on the seat switch and it checked good when pushing on the seat cushion, I got a tone on the multimeter.

Thanks guys for steering me in the right direction first checking the green wire and all it's switches. If I'm wrong let me know.
Bill

Update: It was the PTO switch and an easy fix. Now that I have an understanding that the green wire is used to energize the starter solenoid by sending 12v when key is placed to start if all safety switches are closed to the starter solenoid to energize it. What are the purpose of the white wires that goes to the brake switch and runs through the other safety switches? Does it ground out the ignition coils so the motor stops? Just trying to understand their logic.

The white wire is from the engine ignition harness. The engine makes its own spark by cranking and needs to be grounded to shut the engine off. With the parking brake lever in the off position, the engine ignition is grounded and a no spark condition exists. Trace the white wire and you will see that it passes thru the PTO switch, key switch and the brake interlock switch.

B737capt said:

Update: It was the PTO switch and an easy fix. Now that I have an understanding that the green wire is used to energize the starter solenoid by sending 12v when key is placed to start if all safety switches are closed to the starter solenoid to energize it. What are the purpose of the white wires that goes to the brake switch and runs through the other safety switches? Does it ground out the ignition coils so the motor stops? Just trying to understand their logic.

Click to expand...

First, I wanted to say thank you! Reading through this forum led me straight to the issue; same as yours. I fixed my PTO switch by jumpering the green wire circuit very near the base of the switch plug block by drilling a small hole (through all three posts) and forcing a small piece of 14G copper wire into the through-holes. I selected a drill bit that allowed for an 'interference' fit so the copper wire fits snuggly. This should hold for at least another 3 mowing seasons and by then something else will fail prematurely anyway. Thanks

I'm having trouble with mine scag as well. Not sure what it is, will turn over but won't crank. It's not getting power to spark plugs or spark plug wires.

:welcome:

Clayton_ray07 said:

I'm having trouble with mine scag as well. Not sure what it is, will turn over but won't crank. It's not getting power to spark plugs or spark plug wires.

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Firstly Clayton
:welcome:

Secondly note the opening line on B737capt's post.
Please do the same.
It is way too confusing for both you and any one whore cares to help you by tacking a different problem onto another different problem.
and yours while being wiring is different.

This is the same for me on my Liberty Z: PTO switch. I had already replaced two Starter Solenoids and it cranked intermittently; then before ordering another solenoid, I looked through the interwebs (again) and thankfully I came across this thread. I ordered a cheap PTO switch on ebay, and installed easily with the removal of (3) 7/16" hex bolts to access the back of the mounting plate. The plug looked somewhat pulled away, too. I did the PTO switch swap in minutes, then I also installed a freshly charged battery. Boom - cranked and cut my yard. (Note: The other battery was down to 10.6V but did began to click and whirl with the new PTO switch.)

Chrux said:

...then I also installed a freshly charged battery. Boom - cranked and cut my yard. (Note: The other battery was down to 10.6V but did began to click and whirl with the new PTO switch.)

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>> Even with the key OFF some electrical power is always allowed to flow. The only way to stop the battery "discharge" during long winter storage is to TOTALLY disconnect one of the terminals from the battery. You can physically remove the terminal, OR you can get one of those $9 disconnect devices off Amazon. HERE.

Your battery will have a much longer life if you do something like this.

Or............... get something to maintain your battery, for me it was the Battery MINDer® 1500. Set it & forget it..