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Scab tuff tiger w/ 26DFI engine

#1

K

Knots

Have a 2013 Turf Tiger with 26DFI engine that intermittently won't turn over. Often will start and run but if cut off, will not restart. Happens hot or cold. If you put 12volts on the solenoid it starts and runs just fine. Dealer has checked all safety switches and has replaced key switch, pto switch and start "brain box" as well as start relay. Nothing helps. Problem is definitely in the start circuit some where as once running it is fine. You just never know when it is going to start.
Any thoughts or guesses would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Knots


#2

55TBird

55TBird

Have a 2013 Turf Tiger with 26DFI engine that intermittently won't turn over. Often will start and run but if cut off, will not restart. Happens hot or cold. If you put 12volts on the solenoid it starts and runs just fine. Dealer has checked all safety switches and has replaced key switch, pto switch and start "brain box" as well as start relay. Nothing helps. Problem is definitely in the start circuit some where as once running it is fine. You just never know when it is going to start.
Any thoughts or guesses would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Knots


This probably won't help, but there is one problem area my old mower used to have and it always seem to get by the mechanics at the shop. There are two little wires on the solenoid that are held on just by push on clips...not with nuts. (See pic) Several times with my mower and once lately with my JD Gator, what you described happened and all I did was jiggle those wires or maybe pull them off and put them on and voila! Problem solved.

It may not help you but it is so easy it doesn't cost anything to try. Good luck!

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#3

M

Mad Mackie

There is a cranking relay under the panel close to the key switch, replace it.


#4

K

Knots

Thanks but I replaced that as well as the key switch, the pto switch, and the safety switch module.

Still does the same thing.


#5

B

bertsmobile1

Before you start, pull the spark plug & try to rotate the engine by hand.
No use checking the electrics if you have a hydraulic lock, seized engine or jambed belt overloading the stater motor.
Assuming the engine turns freely.

I like to start from the starter motor and go backwards .
Do the following 5 tests, regardless of the results from an or all of them as there can be more than one problem and you want to isolate where the problem lies.
Elimination of individual parts is important so you know by the end, the battery, solenoid & heavy power circuits are all in good order.

1) try to jump the starter motor directly from your car or truck.
Starter turns = starter good

2) do the same directly from the mowers battery
Starter turns = mower battery good
No turn = duff battery, recharge it & try again.

3) check for voltage ( + 12V ) at the solenoid trigger wire with the key in start position
3a) same with ground trigger wire ( 4 wire solenoid ) or body of solenoid ( 3 wire solenoid)
( I like to test V from the battery hot terminal to ground terminal rather than ohms as they give funny readings )

4) leave ground jumper in place ( from step 2 ) & try key start.
Starter turns = power connection good but ground connection suspect ( most common )
Confirm it by trying again, extra ground removed
I run a secondary ground from the grounding bolt to one of the starter mounting bolts & paint over both with liquid electrical tape.

5) Remove the trigger ( thin ) wire / wires from the solenoid.
Ground one & bridge from the hot terminal to the other.
Starter cranks = solenoid good.
Solenoid is not polarity sensitive, BUT THE WIRING IS so make sure you remove the thin control wires.
Note a thinner wire on the hot terminal is not a control wire. It is the main power feed to the mower.


From here on things become very mower dependant as starting circuits are getting changed all the time.
Basically the power goes in a loop from the hot side of the solenoid ( saves wire, no other reason ) through the fuse to the B terminal on the key switch then to the PTO switch then to the parking brake switch then to the solenoid trigger switch , easy peasy after you grow the 3rd arm. Use a test lamp and follow the power.
However a lot of mowers with a 4 pole solenoid, run a secondary ground control circuit to the ground solenoid wire through the lap bars.
Then to stop this interfearing with the normal safety function of the ground kill, it goes to a relay with the ground as the switched connection.
These are a PIA as the + control wire to the relay comes from the power loop above and the ground side of the control comes via the normal cut out functions of the lap bars.
Be very careful because if you have a system like this and accidentally send 12V down the ground loop you can fry the magnetos on some circuits.


#6

S

Steve0853

Your Scag has the same problem as mine. It has a curse on it. This curse causes the starter to get power when it wants to and to not get power when it doesn't want to.

You are trying to cure the problem with mechanics when what you really need is a witch doctor to remove this curse. I have tried many incantations to remove this curse, but have been completely unsuccessful. It still cranks when it wants to and doesn't crank if it doesn't want to.

The only saving grace is that it will always crank if you short out the solenoid.

If you find a good witch doctor, please let me know.


#7

M

motoman

Wires break "open" under insulation from age and vibration. Very difficult to find. Ohm meter end to end and wiggle. Intermittent with heat , cold. Think lamp wires which I have often replaced.


#8

55TBird

55TBird

Your Scag has the same problem as mine. It has a curse on it. This curse causes the starter to get power when it wants to and to not get power when it doesn't want to.

You are trying to cure the problem with mechanics when what you really need is a witch doctor to remove this curse. I have tried many incantations to remove this curse, but have been completely unsuccessful. It still cranks when it wants to and doesn't crank if it doesn't want to.

The only saving grace is that it will always crank if you short out the solenoid.

If you find a good witch doctor, please let me know.

Thank you Steve. My old mower was possessed by a Poltergeist and although we all know it happens, no one will ever admit to it. :thumbsup:


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