Hi everyone. I'm new here. I have a 2006 rzt 50 mower. The PTO switch melted down. After researching online, I have checked the clutch coil. Measures about 2.5 ohms. The gap was over .035. I reset the gap to .013, shorted the wires and the clutch works and the wires don't get hot. I would like to try to replace the switch and see what happens. The problem is, the switch got so hot it destroyed the plug too. Does anyone know if I can get just a plug somewhere without replacing the entire wiring harness? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
rzt 50 melted plug
- Thread starter raufbob
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Yes can just replace the plug housing and wire terminals but you need an open barrel crimper for the terminals or you splice in an used connector housing and terminals. The terminal are Packard (Delphi) F56 females. The housing would depend on which PTO switch setup you got of the terminal layout.
I do this quite regularly so the the 70-80 usd crimper was well worth the price, not so much for one time applications.
I do this quite regularly so the the 70-80 usd crimper was well worth the price, not so much for one time applications.
Thanks for responding. I haven't been able to find a used plug.
Thanks for responding. I haven't been able to find a used plug. It's a 9 pin plug, roughly 1 1/4 x 3/4 inches. There's an adapter I've found that looks like it has the right plug on one end, but I can't confirm it. I'll attach a picture of it, and of the replacement switch. I appreciate your help.
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Yes that adapter and switch match up pin out wise. Keyed area matches the switch shown. You splice it in using standard butt connectors, just be carefully and not cross any of the wires. you also may have at least one unused wire. You toss the un-used end when you are done. I know it is a waste on materials but as a non shop installer that would be you best solution. The key connector housing makes sure that it and switch goes only way together.
The housing shown is the same one JD uses (JD PN M117518) and the terminals inside it are the Packard 2965867 (16-14 gauge). Of course the wire is color coded. As I said using a standard crimper on these F56 terminal only results in a loose crimp as they are open barrel crimp style terminals. So far JD is only place I have found for either of the particular keyed housings. Since I keep both versions in stock it isn't a problem for me to go to electrical drawer for whichever one I need, There is one note I should share here about those F56 females terminals which is the spring hinged contact does tend to break at times and causes a loose contact which leads to overheating the connection. This sounds like what be happening on your end since the PTO clutch resistance is within specs.
Just make sure your switch is keyed as shown as there is one other style of keyed version where the keyed area is is one side of the last row and not in the center, I would have looked up your mower but I needed the actual model number from the serial number tag.
The housing shown is the same one JD uses (JD PN M117518) and the terminals inside it are the Packard 2965867 (16-14 gauge). Of course the wire is color coded. As I said using a standard crimper on these F56 terminal only results in a loose crimp as they are open barrel crimp style terminals. So far JD is only place I have found for either of the particular keyed housings. Since I keep both versions in stock it isn't a problem for me to go to electrical drawer for whichever one I need, There is one note I should share here about those F56 females terminals which is the spring hinged contact does tend to break at times and causes a loose contact which leads to overheating the connection. This sounds like what be happening on your end since the PTO clutch resistance is within specs.
Just make sure your switch is keyed as shown as there is one other style of keyed version where the keyed area is is one side of the last row and not in the center, I would have looked up your mower but I needed the actual model number from the serial number tag.
bertsmobile1
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I do similar but being a belt & braces type of person I slip about 1/2' or so glued heat shrink up each cable before I fit the terminal then slide it down to the shoulder of the terminal before shrinking it.
This tends to exclude moisture getting into the open end of the wire and provides a lot more support to the joint.
When you get the terminal block, pull out an old feeler gauge , around .045" or there abouts and grind it narrower to fit nicely in the slot of the terminal block where the terminal barb locks the terminal into the block.
You will find this a very handy tool .
Down here the terminal Star has shown is called uninsulated and the crimper used is called an Uninsulated crimper.
get a ratchet type one so that all the crimps will be tight
Put the terminal into the tool and start to crimp till it the terminal is just locked in place then feed the wire into it and finish the cramp.
being cheap i battled for decades using a plain pliers type of tool till I borrowed a ratchet tool.
next day i went out and bought ne from an electrical contractors supply shop , better quality & price than fromTandy ( Radio Shack to some ) .
This tends to exclude moisture getting into the open end of the wire and provides a lot more support to the joint.
When you get the terminal block, pull out an old feeler gauge , around .045" or there abouts and grind it narrower to fit nicely in the slot of the terminal block where the terminal barb locks the terminal into the block.
You will find this a very handy tool .
Down here the terminal Star has shown is called uninsulated and the crimper used is called an Uninsulated crimper.
get a ratchet type one so that all the crimps will be tight
Put the terminal into the tool and start to crimp till it the terminal is just locked in place then feed the wire into it and finish the cramp.
being cheap i battled for decades using a plain pliers type of tool till I borrowed a ratchet tool.
next day i went out and bought ne from an electrical contractors supply shop , better quality & price than fromTandy ( Radio Shack to some ) .
Last edited:
Thank you for your help. I've got got the harness on the way. I'll post my results when the deal is done.Yes that adapter and switch match up pin out wise. Keyed area matches the switch shown. You splice it in using standard butt connectors, just be carefully and not cross any of the wires. you also may have at least one unused wire. You toss the un-used end when you are done. I know it is a waste on materials but as a non shop installer that would be you best solution. The key connector housing makes sure that it and switch goes only way together.
The housing shown is the same one JD uses (JD PN M117518) and the terminals inside it are the Packard 2965867 (16-14 gauge). Of course the wire is color coded. As I said using a standard crimper on these F56 terminal only results in a loose crimp as they are open barrel crimp style terminals. So far JD is only place I have found for either of the particular keyed housings. Since I keep both versions in stock it isn't a problem for me to go to electrical drawer for whichever one I need, There is one note I should share here about those F56 females terminals which is the spring hinged contact does tend to break at times and causes a loose contact which leads to overheating the connection. This sounds like what be happening on your end since the PTO clutch resistance is within specs.
Just make sure your switch is keyed as shown as there is one other style of keyed version where the keyed area is is one side of the last row and not in the center, I would have looked up your mower but I needed the actual model number from the serial number tag.