StarTech, this manual is everything I could ask for. Thank you. I was able to verify it was an issue with the hall effect sensor as it did 8 beeps. I did double check the transducer by swapping the left and right control arms and still managed to get motion on my left wheel. I am planning to get some gator clips tomorrow to make it a little easier to swap between the channels, but I did see the expected 0-5V between yellow and black hall sensor wires.Count the beeps and compared to the chart in the following manual.
Good thing you know how to work on this mower. Most shops will not work on a Ryobi battery powered tool or up to a mower. I will not work on gas Ryobi handheld equipment or battery anything.StarTech, this manual is everything I could ask for. Thank you. I was able to verify it was an issue with the hall effect sensor as it did 8 beeps. I did double check the transducer by swapping the left and right control arms and still managed to get motion on my left wheel. I am planning to get some gator clips tomorrow to make it a little easier to swap between the channels, but I did see the expected 0-5V between yellow and black hall sensor wires.
I've read as such from the forum posts. It's part of why I got such a good deal. I feel confident I can trace down the problem, though most of my tools are not ryobi.Good thing you know how to work on this mower. Most shops will not work on a Ryobi battery powered tool or up to a mower. I will not work on gas Ryobi handheld equipment or battery anything.
Good thing you know how to work on this mower. Most shops will not work on a Ryobi battery powered tool or up to a mower. I will not work on gas Ryobi handheld equipment or battery anything.
StarTech, this manual is everything I could ask for. Thank you. I was able to verify it was an issue with the hall effect sensor as it did 8 beeps. I did double check the transducer by swapping the left and right control arms and still managed to get motion on my left wheel. I am planning to get some gator clips tomorrow to make it a little easier to swap between the channels, but I did see the expected 0-5V between yellow and black hall sensor wires.
The Accelerator or Angle Transducer is located within the control arm assembly. (Photo of Homelite 997144001 Control Arm Assembly, Left)I don't know why you avoiding the 2 cycle Ryobi (TTI) handhelds. Now some techs just hate 2 cycles of all types. My brother was one of them.
I can understand the lack of parts for the battery powered handhelds. They are just as easy to fix as if they were a Homelite, Poulan, or other handheld 2 cycle. Just finding the IPLs and parts are harder sometimes. Depending on your distributor PartSmart will have the IPLs. I just repaired two Ryobi chainsaws last week.
For me Gardner is the TTI parts distributor.
Even this RY48ZTR75 IPLs are listed on the Gardner PartSmart. Those sensors (they calling them Accelerators) doesn't have a PN listed. I need to get with Gardner tech support to see if they can provide a PN for the sensors only or what assembly they are part of.
Can you verify where the sensors are located in the control boxes (I have yet to see one these battery ZTRs in my shop)? If they are the control assemblies are about $160 list and apparently they are failing a lot as the vendor only has over 500 in stock.
We all will have a steep learning curve on these battery powered mowers just as we did when EFI first came out for automobiles. So all got to pull together what knowledge we got and share for the benefit of all of us.
Luckily I think my transducers are fine. I did snag a part number off the left control arm of TJ563A YP 201218(photo attached) for anyone trying to source one.Well that BS from Partstree as it being part of the harness when the 997144001 image clearly shows it on it. And do your leg work on the 997144001 as my distributor listing for a lot less retail.
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And wiring harness doesn't show those sensors as part of it.
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Now here is something you could do pull one of the control arm assembly and look for the OEM of sensor and their part number. A lot of the time it would be there. Then you could search for that part number.
I don't know why you avoiding the 2 cycle Ryobi (TTI) handhelds. Now some techs just hate 2 cycles of all types. My brother was one of them.
I can understand the lack of parts for the battery powered handhelds. They are just as easy to fix as if they were a Homelite, Poulan, or other handheld 2 cycle. Just finding the IPLs and parts are harder sometimes. Depending on your distributor PartSmart will have the IPLs. I just repaired two Ryobi chainsaws last week.
For me Gardner is the TTI parts distributor.
Even this RY48ZTR75 IPLs are listed on the Gardner PartSmart. Those sensors (they calling them Accelerators) doesn't have a PN listed. I need to get with Gardner tech support to see if they can provide a PN for the sensors only or what assembly they are part of.
Can you verify where the sensors are located in the control boxes (I have yet to see one these battery ZTRs in my shop)? If they are the control assemblies are about $160 list and apparently they are failing a lot as the vendor only has over 500 in stock.
We all will have a steep learning curve on these battery powered mowers just as we did when EFI first came out for automobiles. So all got to pull together what knowledge we got and share for the benefit of all of us.
The way you posted it gave me the impression that you hated all Ryobi equipment including the two strokes. Plus you got to remember the Homelite is also under TTI wing now. But a lot of the old Homelite chainsaws are simply dying off now due to lack of parts from the former owners.I love two strokes and work on them all the time. I DO NOT nor will I work on any battery powered outdoor power equipment by choice. Has nothing to do with Ryobi (which I find subpar anyway). It is my way of not agreeing with nor supporting battery equipment.
The way you posted it gave me the impression that you hated all Ryobi equipment including the two strokes. Plus you got to remember the Homelite is also under TTI wing now. But a lot of the old Homelite chainsaws are simply dying off now due to lack of parts from the former owners.
As for battery powered equipment I have personally work on a lot of equipment that used batteries as their main source of power, just not lawn care equipment. But if thing keeps going the way it is we will need to yield and learn how to repair this new battery powered equipment. It look like every OEM is getting into the act of making some sort of a battery powered mower. It at first be mostly consumer equipment but it will make it way into commercial soon too. BTW I even have worked of coffee pots and hair dryers over the years. Always needed those terminal splices and didn't even knew where get them until a few years ago. It was the same with my suppliers they didn't know either. Just took finding the right supplier. Now I stock and use them over the butt connectors; although, I need to use some heat shrink tubing most times to insulate them. Just easier to work them into the harnesses and where the wires are running.
View attachment 68048View attachment 68049
My main issue with the newer battery powered equipment is the lack of info and parts. On this Ryobi discussion here, they at least came to the same conclusion that we must have these things. Now it will be up to us independent shop that are willing to learn new things that will help keep the customer equipment repaired; although, it will give a lot of headaches to all that is involved until we too learn these new battery systems. Plus there is no way their dealer only shops are going handle the overload of repairs.
Now I give the OP at lot credit here for he is willing to apply what he knows from other equipment and is willing to share with us too. I greatly appreciate it myself as I am willing myself to learn this to help my customers that have jumped on to the bandwagon of battery powered equipment. Just now from this one thread I done learn a few new things including finding that troubleshooting PDF and that my distributor's PartSmart has the IPLs (Rev 2 and Rev 4) and that the distributor is a lot more reasonable on the parts. Partstree is just way over priced of these parts.
The problem here is that I have only a limited time left to learn this equipment on the fly as I am entering the 65 and up club very soon. Matter of fact I am signing up for SS and Medicare today.
But you must be willing to learn new things or you will end up failing in life period as we must always be learning new things our entire life be it this equipment or say cook a new meal or deal with a new medical problem. Here I am learning to deal with Afib now and the diet that is related to it.
The first generation of Ryobi Lawn mowers(ZT and RY series) are a lesson in Self Sabotage in regards to Ryobi brand loyalty. Anyone who knows batteries would have never paired the cheap lead acid batteries when it's fully expected DoD is beyond 50% every mow cycle. They threw it out and marked it up as a cash grab - which is a disservice to everyone. They have improved slightly in the newer gen, but they rely on Li-ion battery packs that are removable and waste space rather than committing to a proper LiFePO4 which would provide the longest cycle life(besides going LTO, but those aren't anywhere near as power dense).I learn everyday. I choose not to work on battery equipment. The customer decided to buy a cheaper off brand piece of equipment (Troy Bilt, Craftsman, Ryobi, Poulan, etc.). Now when it comes to repair, they will have to find a shop(good luck), fix it themselves (good luck), or throw it away and buy a new one(most likely).
My neighbor bought a Ryobi battery zero turn mower. Came with lead acid batteries and is dead after about 2.5 years. It is a $4000 boat anchor now. Nearest service center is 100 miles away in Arkansas. This is what some customers are running into. Meanwhile the gas zero turn is chugging along 20 years later.
So in our shop, we work on anything I can get in the shop. We are a bit more electrical savvy as rotable rebuilders (starters, alternators and generators). Because of this open attitude, we do get some jobs referred from other shops, over 100 OEM's we are authored for, and nearly all generators come our way, and jobs other's failed to solve end up here pushing us to learn. Many of these jobs are higher return when you prepare the customer for the extensive diagnostics you may have to undergo. We do not get board, we can push some projects out as nobody does better, keeping good diagnostic details is imperative. Enjoy the learning and the challenge and the reward.Good thing you know how to work on this mower. Most shops will not work on a Ryobi battery powered tool or up to a mower. I will not work on gas Ryobi handheld equipment or battery anything.
That is your right to refuse but I think in the long run you will miss out on the initial learning phase. It better to learn when only a few these are around than when it is all that is out there.
We have had a warranty repair with similar issues which was the drive controller.Good Afternoon All,
I recently picked up a Ryobi ZT480E, the 75AH variant for relatively cheap. Everything appears to work, except for the motion. I've already ruled out the seat sensor as the blades will engage normally, but will not when the connection is removed. What's interesting is the beeping I hear from the Safety Interlock System only triggers when I move the left side control arm, but does not for the right side control arm. I am expecting the issue is either a limit switch or the accelerator on the right side, but neither part seems to have a part number in the diagrams. I wanted to see if anyone else had a similar issue or maybe a product specific diagnostic manual like the one J provided for the RY48110. Thanks for any experience you can share.
(As an aside, I do know the 75AH SLA are terrible and likely to die within a year. Once they do the plan is to replace with ~200AH of LiFePO4 and a 150A BMS)
I did also suspect that. For my particular issue I still had one working wheel so I did swap testing for the motor controllers and was able to verify that both controllers could run the known working motor. I did the same swap test on the control arms to verify they were providing correct feedback to the controller.We have had a warranty repair with similar issues which was the drive controller.