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Ryobi RY253SS 2-cycle trimmer dies after about 10 seconds

#1

T

ttimtucker

Trying to repair a Ryobi RY253SS 2-cycle trimmer. Starts up fine, runs for ~10 seconds and dies. It dies regardless of whether full/no-choke, full/no-throttle. Restarts right away, but exhibits same behavior (which leads me to think not an electrical issue). Here is what I've done:
  • New 50:1 fuel in tank
  • Dry compression: 80 psi
  • Wet compression after dripping some oil into cylinder: 120 psi (so some leakage around rings? would this explain symptoms?)
  • Cleaned passages in carb, gaskets/diaphragms seem in reasonable shape
  • Intake and exhaust gaskets look fine
  • Applied 10 psi pressure to carburetor fuel intake pipe and it holds steady
  • Applied vacuum to fuel inlet tube going to tank, and it sucks up fuel, so no obvious obstructions in tube or fuel-filter
  • Cleaned some carbon buildup from exhaust port
  • Pressure tested crankcase: holds steady at 10 psi
  • Vacuum tested crankcase: holds steady at 15 in Hg, returns to 15 when I rotate engine

Only adjustment on carb is throttle idle screw. Might be possible to adjust the needle on the barrel-valve of the carb, but looks like a special tool may be needed.

Would appreciate any ideas of what to try next.


#2

A

Auto Doc's

Use a spark tester to make sure it is not the coil failing or the off switch. To confirm which it is remove the cover and pull the coil kill wire off temporarily and retry.


#3

T

ttimtucker

Have not tried spark tester yet, but did disconnect the kill wire and no change to symptoms.


#4

A

Auto Doc's

The next suspect would be the fuel filter located on the end of the fuel supply line down inside the tank, or possibly the supply line has a crack or pinhole in it. These flexible fuel lines don't last but so long. This unit has been around for quite some time.


#5

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

ttimtucker said:
Have not tried spark tester yet, but did disconnect the kill wire and no change to symptoms.
Click to expand...
When you get a spark tester, get the Briggs and Stratton or Oregon tester that has a gap for the spark to jump.


#6

T

ttimtucker

Tried with 2 different spark testers. One was the light-up type, one was a gap-type (although not B&S or Oregon). Both showed spark until the engine died. in other words I could not see any diminished spark prior to the engine dying. I will try replacing the fuel supply line and fuel filter tomorrow (although I did run an earlier test to with my vacuum pump to show that I could pull fuel up through the filter/line by applying a mild vacuum). One other test I ran was to pump the primer bulb as the engine began to sputter in the hope that if engine were fuel starved that this would keep it running, but that was not the case.


#7

A

Auto Doc's

ttimtucker said:
Tried with 2 different spark testers. One was the light-up type, one was a gap-type (although not B&S or Oregon). Both showed spark until the engine died. in other words I could not see any diminished spark prior to the engine dying. I will try replacing the fuel supply line and fuel filter tomorrow (although I did run an earlier test to with my vacuum pump to show that I could pull fuel up through the filter/line by applying a mild vacuum). One other test I ran was to pump the primer bulb as the engine began to sputter in the hope that if engine were fuel starved that this would keep it running, but that was not the case.
Click to expand...
Another thought came to mind... loosen the muffler slightly and see it will try to keep running. Why?

Last year, I had a Stihl FS45 that a guy was going to throw away after the Stihl tech said it needed a motor. I told him to let me give it a try and he agreed.

To cut to the chase, I removed the muffler and heated it up red hot with an acetylene torch. once good and hot it burned all the carbon for a solid 2-3 minutes. After it cooled, I shook out the carbon flakes and bolted it back on the motor and fired it up like a new unit.

The theory is simple: On a two stroke, especially, if air cannot get out of the exhaust, fresh air cannot be drawn into the intake for the engine to run.

This also might explain why the compression seems a little low.

This problem is often created by customer self-mixing their fuel and using a little too much oil (for extra protection). The wrong can ready premix can also cause the same problem.


#8

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

ttimtucker said:
Trying to repair a Ryobi RY253SS 2-cycle trimmer. Starts up fine, runs for ~10 seconds and dies. It dies regardless of whether full/no-choke, full/no-throttle. Restarts right away, but exhibits same behavior (which leads me to think not an electrical issue). Here is what I've done:
  • New 50:1 fuel in tank
  • Dry compression: 80 psi
  • Wet compression after dripping some oil into cylinder: 120 psi (so some leakage around rings? would this explain symptoms?)
  • Cleaned passages in carb, gaskets/diaphragms seem in reasonable shape
  • Intake and exhaust gaskets look fine
  • Applied 10 psi pressure to carburetor fuel intake pipe and it holds steady
  • Applied vacuum to fuel inlet tube going to tank, and it sucks up fuel, so no obvious obstructions in tube or fuel-filter
  • Cleaned some carbon buildup from exhaust port
  • Pressure tested crankcase: holds steady at 10 psi
  • Vacuum tested crankcase: holds steady at 15 in Hg, returns to 15 when I rotate engine

Only adjustment on carb is throttle idle screw. Might be possible to adjust the needle on the barrel-valve of the carb, but looks like a special tool may be needed.

Would appreciate any ideas of what to try next.
Click to expand...
Compression is low for a 2-stroke if you are using a proper compression tester for small engines (Schraeder valve). You have spent a lot of time on this Ryobi turd trimmer. If you can’t get it running, move on to real equipment.


#9

T

ttimtucker

Tried with 2 different spark testers. One was the light-up type, one was a gap-type (although not B&S or Oregon). Both showed spark until the engine died. in other words I could not see any diminished spark prior to the engine dying. I will try replacing the fuel supply line and fuel filter tomorrow (although I did run an earlier test to with my vacuum pump to show that I could pull fuel up through the filter/line by applying a mild vacuum). One other test I ran was to pump the primer bulb when the engine began to sputter in the hope that if it were fuel starved that this would keep it running, but that was not the case.
Tiger Small Engine said:
Compression is low for a 2-stroke if you are using a proper compression tester for small engines (Schraeder valve). You have spent a lot of time on this Ryobi turd trimmer. If you can’t get it running, move on to real equipment.
Click to expand...
I agree. This is now mainly turning into a learning exercise as I try to figure out what's wrong.


#10

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

ttimtucker said:
Tried with 2 different spark testers. One was the light-up type, one was a gap-type (although not B&S or Oregon). Both showed spark until the engine died. in other words I could not see any diminished spark prior to the engine dying. I will try replacing the fuel supply line and fuel filter tomorrow (although I did run an earlier test to with my vacuum pump to show that I could pull fuel up through the filter/line by applying a mild vacuum). One other test I ran was to pump the primer bulb when the engine began to sputter in the hope that if it were fuel starved that this would keep it running, but that was not the case.

I agree. This is now mainly turning into a learning exercise as I try to figure out what's wrong.
Click to expand...
You need to be able to adjust the carburetor. If it will start and idle for about 10 seconds, it could be as simple as a carburetor adjustment. Increase idle screw temporarily and try to adjust high and low screws. Sometimes you can take an electrical crimp connector with hard plastic cover and heat it up and hold it on the screw until it cools to form the threads.


#11

T

ttimtucker

Tiger Small Engine said:
You need to be able to adjust the carburetor. If it will start and idle for about 10 seconds, it could be as simple as a carburetor adjustment. Increase idle screw temporarily and try to adjust high and low screws. Sometimes you can take an electrical crimp connector with hard plastic cover and heat it up and hold it on the screw until it cools to form the threads.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately this barrel-valve carb (see Amazon page here for photos of what carb looks like) has no high/low adjustment. As per suggestion from an earlier post I did loosen exhaust, but no change.


#12

A

Auto Doc's

I was mistaken earlier, these had the ruiXing throw away carburetors that were nonadjustable. We called them "one season wonders".


#13

C

cliffeby

ttimtucker said:
Trying to repair a Ryobi RY253SS 2-cycle trimmer. Starts up fine, runs for ~10 seconds and dies. It dies regardless of whether full/no-choke, full/no-throttle. Restarts right away, but exhibits same behavior (which leads me to think not an electrical issue). Here is what I've done:
  • New 50:1 fuel in tank
  • Dry compression: 80 psi
  • Wet compression after dripping some oil into cylinder: 120 psi (so some leakage around rings? would this explain symptoms?)
  • Cleaned passages in carb, gaskets/diaphragms seem in reasonable shape
  • Intake and exhaust gaskets look fine
  • Applied 10 psi pressure to carburetor fuel intake pipe and it holds steady
  • Applied vacuum to fuel inlet tube going to tank, and it sucks up fuel, so no obvious obstructions in tube or fuel-filter
  • Cleaned some carbon buildup from exhaust port
  • Pressure tested crankcase: holds steady at 10 psi
  • Vacuum tested crankcase: holds steady at 15 in Hg, returns to 15 when I rotate engine

Only adjustment on carb is throttle idle screw. Might be possible to adjust the needle on the barrel-valve of the carb, but looks like a special tool may be needed.

Would appreciate any ideas of what to try next.
Click to expand...
I always use starting fluid without an air filter to keep it running when I don’t know if it’s air, spark or fuel. My experience says it’s your fuel filter.


#14

R

RevB

ttimtucker said:
Trying to repair a Ryobi RY253SS 2-cycle trimmer. Starts up fine, runs for ~10 seconds and dies. It dies regardless of whether full/no-choke, full/no-throttle. Restarts right away, but exhibits same behavior (which leads me to think not an electrical issue). Here is what I've done:
  • New 50:1 fuel in tank
  • Dry compression: 80 psi
  • Wet compression after dripping some oil into cylinder: 120 psi (so some leakage around rings? would this explain symptoms?)
  • Cleaned passages in carb, gaskets/diaphragms seem in reasonable shape
  • Intake and exhaust gaskets look fine
  • Applied 10 psi pressure to carburetor fuel intake pipe and it holds steady
  • Applied vacuum to fuel inlet tube going to tank, and it sucks up fuel, so no obvious obstructions in tube or fuel-filter
  • Cleaned some carbon buildup from exhaust port
  • Pressure tested crankcase: holds steady at 10 psi
  • Vacuum tested crankcase: holds steady at 15 in Hg, returns to 15 when I rotate engine

Only adjustment on carb is throttle idle screw. Might be possible to adjust the needle on the barrel-valve of the carb, but looks like a special tool may be needed.

Would appreciate any ideas of what to try next.
Click to expand...
Got mud daubers? Check the exhaust can. A possibility....not the possibility.


#15

T

ttimtucker

I replaced the fuel filter and fuel line, and it behave a little better, but still died. I then replaced the carb with the one here, from Amazon. Runs fine now. This reinforces Auto Doc's earlier comment about ruiXing being "one season wonders".


#16

A

Auto Doc's

At the end of use on a regular basis, it will help to empty the fuel and then try to start it a couple of times to draw out anything left in the carburetor. I started doing that and it greatly reduced my Springtime weed eater problems a few years ago.

Buy new fuel mix or mix your own every Spring. Non-Ethanol works best if you have it available.

I have several older Ryobi and Stihl weed eaters that have been reliable over 15 years with just regular upkeep like fuel lines, air cleaners and spark plugs.


#17

T

tonycarfagna

Try relacing spark arrestor screen or clean old one in muffler these are notorious


#18

D

darksoul251

ttimtucker said:
Trying to repair a Ryobi RY253SS 2-cycle trimmer. Starts up fine, runs for ~10 seconds and dies. It dies regardless of whether full/no-choke, full/no-throttle. Restarts right away, but exhibits same behavior (which leads me to think not an electrical issue). Here is what I've done:
  • New 50:1 fuel in tank
  • Dry compression: 80 psi
  • Wet compression after dripping some oil into cylinder: 120 psi (so some leakage around rings? would this explain symptoms?)
  • Cleaned passages in carb, gaskets/diaphragms seem in reasonable shape
  • Intake and exhaust gaskets look fine
  • Applied 10 psi pressure to carburetor fuel intake pipe and it holds steady
  • Applied vacuum to fuel inlet tube going to tank, and it sucks up fuel, so no obvious obstructions in tube or fuel-filter
  • Cleaned some carbon buildup from exhaust port
  • Pressure tested crankcase: holds steady at 10 psi
  • Vacuum tested crankcase: holds steady at 15 in Hg, returns to 15 when I rotate engine

Only adjustment on carb is throttle idle screw. Might be possible to adjust the needle on the barrel-valve of the carb, but looks like a special tool may be needed.

Would appreciate any ideas of what to try next.
Click to expand...
I just go on ebay and replace the carburetor. Something goes wrong with them. They cheap on ebay. Make sure to get the right one.


#19

T

The Specialist

ttimtucker said:
Trying to repair a Ryobi RY253SS 2-cycle trimmer. Starts up fine, runs for ~10 seconds and dies. It dies regardless of whether full/no-choke, full/no-throttle. Restarts right away, but exhibits same behavior (which leads me to think not an electrical issue). Here is what I've done:
  • New 50:1 fuel in tank
  • Dry compression: 80 psi
  • Wet compression after dripping some oil into cylinder: 120 psi (so some leakage around rings? would this explain symptoms?)
  • Cleaned passages in carb, gaskets/diaphragms seem in reasonable shape
  • Intake and exhaust gaskets look fine
  • Applied 10 psi pressure to carburetor fuel intake pipe and it holds steady
  • Applied vacuum to fuel inlet tube going to tank, and it sucks up fuel, so no obvious obstructions in tube or fuel-filter
  • Cleaned some carbon buildup from exhaust port
  • Pressure tested crankcase: holds steady at 10 psi
  • Vacuum tested crankcase: holds steady at 15 in Hg, returns to 15 when I rotate engine

Only adjustment on carb is throttle idle screw. Might be possible to adjust the needle on the barrel-valve of the carb, but looks like a special tool may be needed.

Would appreciate any ideas of what to try next.
Click to expand...
Hi. As a specialist in small engine repair, everyone will be saying to check this and that. The first thing that you have to do with all 2 strokes is remove the exhaust and look at the piston. If you see bar codes (I call them) known as score marks, you are wasting your time, the engine is finished. If no score marks, make a hook out of a piece of wire and pull the fuel filter out of the tank, remove it from the line and you should be able to blow through it. Some filters have a water absorbing filter and it should be changed. If you can blow through it, then the problem is in the carb. There is a 10micron screen and it could be blocked with water, dirt or a micro film of old fuel across the screen.
As it runs, it’s not a spark issue at this point, unless the flywheel key has sheered.
Compression testers don’t work on 2 strokes, as you can have compression, but if you have score marks, the pressure collapses in the crankcase and the fuel sits on the bottom. The fuel and oil mix are no longer in an atomised state.
The thing that everyone has to understand is that from the fuel cap to the spark plug is that it’s a pressure vessel. A carb only controls the fuel going into the engine by movement of the piston.
Vacuum and pressure tests only confirm that there is no air leaks.
If all of your fuel related issues are confirmed not to be the problem, I would look at the flywheel next. A fella with a stihl some time ago had the same issue as you. He put a new carb on, fuel lines and filter and still the same thing. He contacted me and I told him “well I know it’s not a fuel issue and there were no score marks “😂 I told him to look at the flywheel and the key sheered and the flywheel rotated just enough for it to start, but quickly died. He put on a new flywheel and never looked back.


#20

Mike88se

Mike88se

Seems like a lot of time & trouble for a Ryobi but kudos for persistence. I would have advised customer to buy a new (and better) machine but if customer really wanted the Ryobi fixed and was willing to pay then I would have just bought a new carb straight away and skipped all the diagnostics. Glad it worked out for you.


#21

C

CWatters

Ive managed to kill three Ryobi strimmers. They get harder and harder to start and then a compression test shows lack of compression. Sometimes you can see the piston is scored. Not sure why as I use fuel filters and the right amount of oil. Someone once suggested its important to let them warm up before use or you can get micro seizures?

Anyway I think normal is 90-110psi with a minimum of 70psi so yours is a bit low. Thing is once mine started they tended to keep running so not 100% convinced thats it. Check the anti spark mesh on the exhaust as others have suggested.


#22

R

RevB

Auto Doc's said:
The next suspect would be the fuel filter located on the end of the fuel supply line down inside the tank, or possibly the supply line has a crack or pinhole in it. These flexible fuel lines don't last but so long. This unit has been around for quite some time.
Click to expand...
F4040 Tygon yellow fuel line is rated for gasoline.....not all yellow, or for that matter, any color, lines are gasoline rated.


#23

R

RevB

ttimtucker said:
Unfortunately this barrel-valve carb (see Amazon page here for photos of what carb looks like) has no high/low adjustment. As per suggestion from an earlier post I did loosen exhaust, but no change.
Click to expand...


#24

C

Chuckers

ttimtucker said:
...replaced the carb with the one here, from Amazon. Runs fine now. This reinforces Auto Doc's earlier comment about ruiXing being "one season wonders".
Click to expand...

But isn't that just another disposable "one season wonder" carb?


#25

R

RevB

RevB said:
Click to expand...
Loosen is not removed....mud daubers love, for some reason, to build mud capsules in the muffler. Make sure that's not the case. Otherwise, remove carb, disassemble, inspect and blow all passages out with at least 30 psi or higher.

What you describe can be either fuel starvation or blockage. I use a small syringe filled with fuel to drip fuel into the carb throat to check if it will continue to run when supplied with fuel. If not the reason lies elsewhere.


#26

L

LMPPLUS

ttimtucker said:
Trying to repair a Ryobi RY253SS 2-cycle trimmer. Starts up fine, runs for ~10 seconds and dies. It dies regardless of whether full/no-choke, full/no-throttle. Restarts right away, but exhibits same behavior (which leads me to think not an electrical issue). Here is what I've done:
  • New 50:1 fuel in tank
  • Dry compression: 80 psi
  • Wet compression after dripping some oil into cylinder: 120 psi (so some leakage around rings? would this explain symptoms?)
  • Cleaned passages in carb, gaskets/diaphragms seem in reasonable shape
  • Intake and exhaust gaskets look fine
  • Applied 10 psi pressure to carburetor fuel intake pipe and it holds steady
  • Applied vacuum to fuel inlet tube going to tank, and it sucks up fuel, so no obvious obstructions in tube or fuel-filter
  • Cleaned some carbon buildup from exhaust port
  • Pressure tested crankcase: holds steady at 10 psi
  • Vacuum tested crankcase: holds steady at 15 in Hg, returns to 15 when I rotate engine

Only adjustment on carb is throttle idle screw. Might be possible to adjust the needle on the barrel-valve of the carb, but looks like a special tool may be needed.

Would appreciate any ideas of what to try next.
Click to expand...


#27

R

rhkraft

The crack or pin hole in the supply fuel line seems noteworthy. Fill the tank and see if it runs OK. If the problem only occurs after the fuel level drops it is probably a cracked fuel pickup line. Air is sucked into the crack and the engine falters.


#28

P

Pitt

I have recently experienced the same set of circumstances w/my Ryobi RY251PH strimmer. (Manufactured 10-22-15)
I must have dropped mine as I had a small piece coming off the carburetor with what looked like a ball behind it.
Order the $9 Amazon Chinese flavor of the day and attached.
What I discovered is that it runs at a totally different "richness/choke" setting which we cannot adjust.
Pull a few times with choke on 100%.
Whether it starts or not, then move choke to somewhere around mid setting.
Start it here.
Mine runs BUT if I totally shut choke off so more air goes thru it does exactly like yours.
I think the "richness" setting is off in the ChiComm specials and we can only adjust mixture with the choke setting.
If this works for you, be sure choke is tight so it doesn't vibrate totally open and then die again.
Please advise.
For proof that mine has lasted 10 years as a residential user a photo of manufacturing date sticker is attached.

Attachments





#29

mpqualdie

mpqualdie

ttimtucker said:
Trying to repair a Ryobi RY253SS 2-cycle trimmer. Starts up fine, runs for ~10 seconds and dies. It dies regardless of whether full/no-choke, full/no-throttle. Restarts right away, but exhibits same behavior (which leads me to think not an electrical issue). Here is what I've done:
  • New 50:1 fuel in tank
  • Dry compression: 80 psi
  • Wet compression after dripping some oil into cylinder: 120 psi (so some leakage around rings? would this explain symptoms?)
  • Cleaned passages in carb, gaskets/diaphragms seem in reasonable shape
  • Intake and exhaust gaskets look fine
  • Applied 10 psi pressure to carburetor fuel intake pipe and it holds steady
  • Applied vacuum to fuel inlet tube going to tank, and it sucks up fuel, so no obvious obstructions in tube or fuel-filter
  • Cleaned some carbon buildup from exhaust port
  • Pressure tested crankcase: holds steady at 10 psi
  • Vacuum tested crankcase: holds steady at 15 in Hg, returns to 15 when I rotate engine

Only adjustment on carb is throttle idle screw. Might be possible to adjust the needle on the barrel-valve of the carb, but looks like a special tool may be needed.

Would appreciate any ideas of what to try next.
Click to expand...
If you use gas with ethanol in it the carburetor diaphragms are probably shot. You should be using non-ethenol gas. Check that the fuel line and pickup weight in the tank are still intact. This is very common with weed eaters and chain saws. If tgat doesnt fix it, you can buy a new carburetor on ebay, usually for about 20 bucks. Change that and put new fuel lines in it and it should work well for you.


#30

P

Pitt

Also just ran across this photo of carb replacement.
Mine had 2 holes, does yours?

Attachments





#31

R

RevB

Pitt said:
I have recently experienced the same set of circumstances w/my Ryobi RY251PH strimmer. (Manufactured 10-22-15)
I must have dropped mine as I had a small piece coming off the carburetor with what looked like a ball behind it.
Order the $9 Amazon Chinese flavor of the day and attached.
What I discovered is that it runs at a totally different "richness/choke" setting which we cannot adjust.
Pull a few times with choke on 100%.
Whether it starts or not, then move choke to somewhere around mid setting.
Start it here.
Mine runs BUT if I totally shut choke off so more air goes thru it does exactly like yours.
I think the "richness" setting is off in the ChiComm specials and we can only adjust mixture with the choke setting.
If this works for you, be sure choke is tight so it doesn't vibrate totally open and then die again.
Please advise.
For proof that mine has lasted 10 years as a residential user a photo of manufacturing date sticker is attached.
Click to expand...
Hence the need to exactly specify which engine gets the same carb spec as the OEM carb. If you cannot adjust them they are pre jetted for a specific displacement engine.


#32

R

RevB

Pitt said:
Also just ran across this photo of carb replacement.
Mine had 2 holes, does yours?
Click to expand...
Most likely the impulse port for the fuel pump diaphram in the carb body.


#33

R

RevB

mpqualdie said:
If you use gas with ethanol in it the carburetor diaphragms are probably shot. You should be using non-ethenol gas. Check that the fuel line and pickup weight in the tank are still intact. This is very common with weed eaters and chain saws. If tgat doesnt fix it, you can buy a new carburetor on ebay, usually for about 20 bucks. Change that and put new fuel lines in it and it should work well for you.
Click to expand...
Mostly incorrect . Everything made after the early 80s has switched to materials that are ethanol agnostic as it doesn't do anything to them. Pre Buna-N orings were the common failure and after the switch to Buna-N no more problems. Same holds true with diaphragms.


#34

L

lbrac

I've had a ring trapped by carbon in the piston groove cause the piston/cylinder to score when combustion gases pass into the lower end of the engine. Carbon can clog the spark arrestor screen and plug the exhaust. The fuel cap vent can not vent the tank when the fuel is drawn from it, causing a vacuum in the fuel tank when running, or pressurize fuel through the carb into the lower end of the engine when not running and ambient temperature rises. Some carbs have a check ball in a passage in the metering block that can bind due to trash/deposits; it requires a metal cover to be removed to clean the passage. The primer bulb can crack and draw air when the engine is running. Spark plugs can carbon track or crack the ceramic insulator, shorting the spark to ground. And all the various other things previously suggested. Some are easily checked/tested, and others take more effort. Checking the easy ones and ruling them out before moving on to the more elaborate issues is usually best.


#35

T

TRACTORTOWN

Remove the spark arrester screen in the muffler. Leave it out. If you can’t remove it, poke big holes in it. Only State that is required to have it is in California. It plugs constantly and does not let the exhaust move freely out of the engine. Most common problem seen on two cycle hand held products.


#36

F

farmerdave1954

In can attest from experience that this can definitely be due to a clogged spark arrestor screen in the muffler. My Stihl string trimmer had this issue about 5 years after I bought it new. Took it to the repair shop (due to needing it immediately and simply not having time to work on it my self) and described the problem. The tech just asked if I was going to be using it in a National Forest, to which I replied no. He pulled a pair of pliers out of his pocket, ripped the screen out, handed it back to me and said, "There. You won't have any more problems like that again." He was right. 14 years later the only problem I've had since was a bad kill switch. Never another issue of any kind with it. Even if it's not the arrester screen, pull it out or it will be one of these days.


#37

T

ttimtucker

Prior to replacing the carb I had removed the muffler, but that did not change the symptoms. I will definitely keep in mind the spark arrestor as a point of failure for future diagnosis.


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