Hello
Motor running on 1 piston have changed the coil packs and the spark plug and left hand piston still not working I have changed the coil packs from left to right along with the spark plug and legit hand piston still not firing any ideas.
#2
ILENGINE
Have you removed the valve covers to make sure the push rods are still in place and the valves are opening and closing properly. And the piston is moving up and down when the engine cranks.
Hello
Motor running on 1 piston have changed the coil packs and the spark plug and left hand piston still not working I have changed the coil packs from left to right along with the spark plug and legit hand piston still not firing any ideas.
If it is a Briggs you might also try unplugging both coils kill wires and try it again. Each wire has its own diode in it and they do go bad . It can have spark on both cylinders but one side at the wrong time / open ex valve piston on bottom of stroke .
Pull the plug on the left cylinder and make sure the piston is moving, had a twin on a JD that ran but seemed to have a miss. Everything checked out as far as firing and but still had a miss. Pulled the plug and found out the rod had broken.
Hello
Motor running on 1 piston have changed the coil packs and the spark plug and left hand piston still not working I have changed the coil packs from left to right along with the spark plug and legit hand piston still not firing any ideas.
This may sound strange but I had a fellow bring me a Kubota zero turn mower with Briggs vertical twin that was only running on one cylinder as evidenced by using a laser thermometer on the exhaust Pipe. Working cylinder would hit 400 degrees in short order while non-working would hit barely 200 degrees. Long story short, after checking valves swapping coils from one side to other to no avail, cleaned the carb and problem was solved. Apparently, the carb has two circuits, one for each cylinder. Good Luck.
Correct, also check intake seals or gaskets, plastic intake manifolds also can crack or warp. Some 2 barrel carbs have adjusting screws under the small brass or aluminum plugs closest to the intake manifold, they can be removed and adjusted after removing and cleaning the carb. I use a ultra sonic cleaner and it cleans and repairs 80% of carb problems.
I have an engine here now that is doing same thing. Everything seems right. 60psi compression. Wasn't till I did a leak down test that I found rings bad. Chinese PowerCrap engine, I don't think it's worth the price of parts.
I have an engine here now that is doing same thing. Everything seems right. 60psi compression. Wasn't till I did a leak down test that I found rings bad. Chinese PowerCrap engine, I don't think it's worth the price of parts.
Were the valves fully closed when you tested for compression?
Most of the time people use a small or big block engine compression tester on outdoor power equipment. Most have a super long hose. Gives low readings on OPE.
I would pull the piston and free the rings. Put her back together and test. Most of the time rings are carboned up from lack of oil changes. Could also be just dead rings.
Solomo, TDC, Valves and choke closed. I don't read the actual psi value. Use a rough measurement. Leak down, even at low psi, leaked into crankcase. I haven't opened the engine. Too cold to work on now. Left this info for suggestion.
