Pretty please, do not purchase one of those aftermarket Chinese carbs off Amazon, it won't run right. Purchase the OEM carb and solve the problem correctly. They are not expensive. Get the model number off the machine and got to Partstree.com and get the part number for the carb. If you provide me with the model number (it may be under the bagger cover and it is either silver or white or on the rear of the chassis behind the engine). That looks like a Briggs engine?, so probably a plastic carburetor. Alternatively, take the carb to a small engine shop and have it cleaned. They are very simple carbs to clean as there is no low-speed circuit. Simply remove the two screws holding the bowl on, clray some carb cleaner through the brass main jet, remove the pin from the float and spray carb cleaner into the inlet seat, put it back together and pop it back on. Here is a YouTube video with instructions.Yeah so the choke opened slowly but it definitely did open fully.
I have had a few engines over the years that ran rough, and with some seafoam treatment over the long term, they would clear up and run well again. But the plan is to get this thing running good and sell it. I don't have time to mow with it all summer. So I'll probably just do the carb. I also have very bad luck taking carbs apart. So if they're only $20 on ebay, I'll probably just replace it. I know many people don't like ebay carbs but I've had very good luck with them. Very few duds.
Seafoam makes people feel better, like they did something, the majority of the time. However, usually is not the solution or even marginally helpful. It is always better to keep OEM carburetor and clean first before buying an aftermarket carburetor. That said, I have had great results with most aftermarket carburetors I have purchased.Ok I've now mowed my lawn twice with this mower, and its a pretty big yard for a small push machine like this. No change in sputtering/misfiring at all even with all the seafoam I ran through it. I even ran it dry then did a little more mowing with just clean, straight gas, incase I was overdoing it with the seafoam. Nada.
So I'll be replacing the carb and I bet it runs perfectly after that.
If Seafoam were that good, why am I wasting my time cleaning all these hundreds of carburetors over the years and having the engines run great afterwards? Before I started running a small engine shop, I thought Seafoam was the bomb too.I have to disagree on the effectiveness of seafoam. It doesn't always solve the problems but it has helped a lot more engines for me than it has done nothing for. Two mows isn't a very long treatment but because I need to sell this mower and finish it's video, I really don't have time to mow with it all summer to see if it works, especially when new carbs are $10 shipped. But I've had very good luck with sea foam actually DOING stuff, and by stuff, I mean making engines that run a little rough, run like they should.
Good luck creating a proper running machine with the ten-dollar bill. Simply remove the carburetor and clean it thoroughly. It's an uncomplicated process, and you can Watch YouTube videos for guidance on cleaning. Allocate 30 minutes to fix the problem.Because you don't have time to use a customers machine for a few weeks to let seafoam work its magic. But as a homeowner, I have that time.
Also I'm not against cleaning a carb. Well, I am but not like that. Why bother cleaning when a new one is $10. But I'm just saying, it doesn't always fix things but it often will if you use it regularly. I put an ounce per gallon into all my power tool gas and I've had a lot fewer carb issues since I started doing that.
But yeah my boat has 3 carbs and they seem to have bad needle valves that let too much fuel in causing stalling at idle and a smokey mess when you are going slow. Seafoam isn't going to fix that.
At no point have you checked high end RPMs. Low RPMs will result in surging, especially when the carb may have a blocked passage way.
Let me spell it out in simple language. Either your carburetor is dirty and needs attention, or much less likely, you have an air leak. Try to open yourself up to people that have years of experience and are trying to help you. When I get phone calls from new customers, I have noticed that it is not uncommon that people are poor listeners. If you can get the mower running correctly, the sense of accomplishment is worth the trouble.Ok well i disagree with some of what you say, but this part I don't understand at all:
I don't know what you mean here or what you are suggesting I do?
It seems very likely that OEM carburetor is dirty, and that the aftermarket carburetor is not dead on with air/fuel mixture, so not running properly.Doesn't it seem unlikely that the original carb was dirty, and the brand new one is also dirty? Seems like in this scenario where I've gone through two carbs, the air leak would be the more likely problem, no?
EDIT: First, I apologize that I wrote my earlier comment w/o watching your entire video. As a consequence of that, I missed the fact that in addition to SURGING, your mower actually is MISFIRING as well, albeit intermittently.Ok well i disagree with some of what you say, but this part I don't understand at all:
I don't know what you mean here or what you are suggesting I do?
No. There is a comment in ALL mower manuals about removing carbon say every 5 years. Check your maintenance items out in your manual. Clean cooling fins and some de-carbon action are highly over looked. Carbon will not work itself out. Once you de-carbon one you will get your answer. Most have big chunks of carbon say behind valves and well all over the chamber.If there is carbon on the valves, will it work itself out if I just keep using the machine?
Doubtful. I don't recall... have you checked the flywheel key? Backfiring would make me suspect the key.Yup I cleaned the carb the other day, took it all apart, sprayed everything. The tank looks totally clean and has seen several tanks of fresh gas so theres no old fuel anywhere.
Would a dirty carb cause backfiring out the exhaust?
Hand driver is plenty tight. Make sure the rocker stud is tight and thread locked in. You don't need NASCAR torque on any of these tiny bolts/nuts.So it felt like the set screws had loosened up a lot, even though I had tightened them good and snug with my T10. I re-tighten them after I readjusted them, squeezing as hard as I could with my T10 driver but no luck. Is there a trick to this? The first T10 (bit) I used snapped when I was trying to initially loosen them. I can't get them back that tight, not with my hand driver anyway.
Might have residual fuel in the chamber lighting off. Nothing to worry about.Another thing I don't udnerstand. I was able to pull the cord and get the machine to fire a few times before it died again.
If the intake vale is stuck closed because the rocker isn't touching it, how was the engine able to run at all? That doesn't make sense to me?
Do you mean valve cover? If so the valve cover doesn't hold anything on other than itself and or maybe a gasket.The rocker issue was just because I took the engine over off and didn't realize that removed the pressure holding the rocker on to the rods.
You need to FLUSH, BLOW and reverse blow the tank out. If you have a 90 degree hose barb on the tank outlet, make sure you have flow there as in a good solid stream. Be looking at where you can't see inside the tank. Not just in the bottom and call it good.So I'm just going to drain the fuel tank again, remove and clean the carb again, and see what happens. The fuel tank looked plenty clean to me, but maybe since it will be empty anyway, I'll clean it with some soapy water.
Not advised. Any grit being smaller than you and I can see will go right back in where you don't want it to.Then I'm going to put the same fuel back in. That fuel is not old, it's new. But its been in a tank that theoretically could be dirty. So it could have some dirt in it. SOOO whats a good say to strain the fuel, as a precaution? Like a coffee filter maybe? Something like that?
Not needed but not critical. Remember to use some alcohol to clean that connector when you are done testing. Remove the adhesive from the tape. It will attract grit and grime.I put a little electrical tape on the coil side connector to make sure it doesn't try to arc over to the engine block.
IF the coil is good, the engine will run against the flywheel brake. You will need to strap the deadman lever to the bar leaving the engine running, for testing only. Should run the tank dry IF the coil is good.what exactly will happen when I let go of the man lever?
You need to verify you have solid spark all the time you are holding the deadman lever to the bar. With a good coil, should of ran perfect IF it was a spark issue. You could have a partial failure in your ignition coil? Never seen one but it is an electrical part. Coil gets hot and starts sputtering???????? Did you remove the coil polishing the mounting pads and such? Coil needs a good ground.I unplugged the coil's ground line and started it up, no change in behavior.
So your word is misfire. Back to the coil again. Get one of these. The Oppama PET-4000 is supreme. You need to rule out SPARK as a cause.Its one misfire every 1 to 3 seconds on average. It didn't seem to be getting worse,