Rotating spindle shaft, frozen blade bolt.

[rick tenny]

I have a Cub GT2523. I'm trying to break the blade bolts loose and the spindle shaft is moving with the nut. I'm using some stout force to move the nut. Should the spindle shaft move counter clockwise and can I lock it up some how.

 

[Lawnranger]

You may need to use an air impact wrench to get it loose. You can try a hand impact driver with a six point socket but that may not be enough.

 

[KennyV]

Like Lawnranger said... an impact will take it right off...
You Might get lucky, using a wrench if you block the blade, put a block of wood under the deck where it will jam the tip of the blade with the deck baffling.... :smile:KennyV

 

[MBTRAC]

Hi - if you need to loosen blade bolts firstly wedge a block of wood between the blade & the deck so the blade is unable to rotate on the splindle.

An old Aussie farmers "trick" on rusted bolts/threads->
Fristly, Caution on the advice below, do not use/allow the acetone mix near/or to penetrate any seals, bearing or nylox nuts (it will destroy them!!) & the mix must be "fresh" as the acetone evaporates quickly.

For any rusted or seized bolts/threads mixed 50/50 Acetone & oil (ideally transmission oil but any oil will work from light machine, compressor, engine oil to the ideal transmission oil) - you won't need much just a few drops applied sparingly, leave for day or so & then retry to loosen the bolt if it doesn't work the first time again put a few drops on each day .....etc until it loosens, above all have patience, it will always work after 1 or maybe few more application !!! (and will avoid the bolt snapping) - I usualy dip a drinking straw in the 50/50 mix (I make only at max. an ounce or two at a time) then place my thunb on the end on the straw & drip the mix on to the bolt/thread.
It all works very simply as the acetone "eats" the rust/crud then evaporates leaving the oil to penetrate/lubricate the thread (repeated applications allow the mix to work its way into the thread).
Make sure when you replaced the bolt you firstly lubricte the thread with a little oil or grease prior to torquing correctly. (Acetone can be purchased usually at any auto or marine store in the paint or fibreglass section)

Impact drivers & air wrenches are great but they do snap bolts & stress crack hardware if you are not skilled in using them.

 

[motoman]

I like mbrtac's concotion. Seems like if you are really stuck you need help from gravity , and maybe a trick I read, but have not tried, from a classic auto restoration guide . Unless I missed it the solvent is being put on " bolt head down " when it really needs to soak or otherwise penetrate under the head around the bolt and into the thread area. Take off the deck and place it blades (bolt heads) up. Then apply the white lightening. The classic tip I read is to find a tube that will clear the hex bolt head, and fit flush with the spindle surface. An air compressor air nozzle should be rigged to fit tightly on the open vertical end. Put some elixir in the tube and apply air pressure. Repeat. Seems like light rapping with a soft (brass) hammer on the bolt head would also probably help. It should not be necessary to dress up funny or dance with rattles. Hope some of this helps .:smile:

Since mbtrac' is warning about seal damage maybe you should use "blaster" or other metal penetrant.