Robert's Honda (light mods)

Cut off the bottom smash with hammer drill holes for bolts use smaller flat head hammer smooth it out paint walla
 
Shortening the handle by cutting a section out of the middle would be your best bet. You really don't have to shorten the cables. They are anchored at each end and should still work properly. You may have to get a few zip ties to anchor the excess cable to the handle, so it doesn't snag.
 
I'm tempted to do something like this on my Honda because it has been cold out lately, and I realized the one thing my Honda HRR is better than my HRX is that it has a padded handle! And rubber is less cold than metal! My hands were freezing! Yes I know I could wear gloves, but I like customizing better! :thumbsup:

I used Foam rubber A/C lines insulation ( the kind used on A/C unit lines in your house ) get in Lowes or H/D REALLY cheap ! try to find the type that is slit down the center with self sealing sticky-stuff on the slit. ..:thumbsup:
 
Robert,
I see the kits for bicycle handlebar wraps. They are held on by plugs on the ends. How did you secure them?
Another mod, which I have is the stainless steel scrape shields on the sides. I also have modded the chute add on to work. This allows you to blow grass to the right.
This is great to blow the leaves and clean off the walkway. I have also added the striping kit.
 
Robert,
I see the kits for bicycle handlebar wraps. They are held on by plugs on the ends. How did you secure them?
Another mod, which I have is the stainless steel scrape shields on the sides. I also have modded the chute add on to work. This allows you to blow grass to the right.
This is great to blow the leaves and clean off the walkway. I have also added the striping kit.

Maybe I see a black tyrap. Did you have to re adjust the cables?
 
I'm stealing this cork wrap idea! My HRX217 shakes like a freakin' paint mixer compared to my HR515 Masters ... even with blade disengaged.
 
It should not shake like a paint mixer. The HXA has a weighted balanced flywheel. I am wondering if the engine was changed. Also the HXA will last longer because it basically has 2 flywheels. The blade and the weighted flywheel.
 
As Rivets said Robert. Cut out the required section.
I would mark where i wished to do this, then cut with tube/pipe cutters. Don't force the cut action because you will 'fold' in the tube more than necessary. You could part cut and finish with a hacksaw too, if you wished.
Anyway, clean the tube ends with a file and insert lengths of alloy or use the cut out tube sections. If you use the cut out section, cut them lengthwise with a grinding disc ( be careful here) What you will end up with is over size tension pins:wink:
Insert/drive these in equidistant and rivet in place. If the handle tubes are too light in section, scrounge up some heavier wall material and follow on as described.
Or take it to your friendly welder and get him to TIG/Mig the join. Any engineer will know how to do this successfully.
By the way, NICE mower.

Edit:
Good grief!! I just realised how old this thread is lol
I assume you have the handle sorted by now Robert?? :biggrin:
 
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