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Riding or walk behind?
#1
S
sailingharry
S
sailingharry
We recently moved to a place with 1/3 acre, with some slightly steep hills (easy to walk). Before, I had a tiny yard and an ancient B&D battery mower. We mowed it all last summer.
Our first solution was a Honda 3011. It does fairly well, but it is old, keeps having issues, and is poorly supported. It was a good "need it now" interim solution, but it needs to go. And I'm willing to spend a bit more, now that I've got some ideas on what I want.
I want to limit to around 30". I can do the entire yard in under an hour, and it fits well in our shed (40" may not even fit).
I've used a self propelled residential (mid-engine, small wheels) mower, and it was pretty awful. It's more like "power assist" -- you really still have to push it, especially on the steeper parts.
So, the question. I can find a few riding mowers in this size bracket, decent ones in the $500-750 range or so. Or, for a little more, I can get commercial style walk behinds (rear engine, big turf wheels, etc). My next door neighbor (similar size lawn, slightly less steep hills) has a pro service and they use a walk behind. The walk behind may store better, I think. It may also maneuver better. Is my yard a good candidate for this style, and is it worth the extra money? Are there upsides/downsides versus a similar ride on? I suspect that the steepest parts of the hill may be helped by my pushing, vs riding.
Thoughts?
Our first solution was a Honda 3011. It does fairly well, but it is old, keeps having issues, and is poorly supported. It was a good "need it now" interim solution, but it needs to go. And I'm willing to spend a bit more, now that I've got some ideas on what I want.
I want to limit to around 30". I can do the entire yard in under an hour, and it fits well in our shed (40" may not even fit).
I've used a self propelled residential (mid-engine, small wheels) mower, and it was pretty awful. It's more like "power assist" -- you really still have to push it, especially on the steeper parts.
So, the question. I can find a few riding mowers in this size bracket, decent ones in the $500-750 range or so. Or, for a little more, I can get commercial style walk behinds (rear engine, big turf wheels, etc). My next door neighbor (similar size lawn, slightly less steep hills) has a pro service and they use a walk behind. The walk behind may store better, I think. It may also maneuver better. Is my yard a good candidate for this style, and is it worth the extra money? Are there upsides/downsides versus a similar ride on? I suspect that the steepest parts of the hill may be helped by my pushing, vs riding.
Thoughts?
#2
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Possibly off topic, more like garbage to me. On topic, I would recommend a Toro Super Recycler. I use mine to cut about a 1/3 acre where my tractor won’t go and have never had a problem. I know they are a bit pricey, but you get what you pay for. I call these 20 year mowers when properly maintained and have never had anyone comeback and say to me it doesn’t do a good job. Disclaimer, I’m a Toro guy and have recommended and sold these units for over 30 years. Read my signature.
#3
S
sailingharry
S
sailingharry
I currently mow with a 30" riding mower that moves significantly faster than I can walk, and it takes an hour to do the yard. A 21" push mower would take that to at least 90 minutes, maybe 2 hours, and also increase the "sweat factor." I also worry about the ability to climb my hill (I also have a small self propelled push mower, and it can't climb the hill without a lot of help from me). The riding mower spins and slides, and requires body english to climb the hill, but that may be related to the ancient hard tires.
I'm really looking to up my game (while reducing how much time and effort it takes).
I'm really looking to up my game (while reducing how much time and effort it takes).
#4
7394
7394
Walking gives ya excersize.
Riding only does when you clean it off after, & under side scrape.
Riding only does when you clean it off after, & under side scrape.
#5
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
You are cutting more than a1/3 of an acre if it takes an hour. With my Toro I cut a 1/3 acre in about 45 minutes, with includes 200 feet of ditch and a 45 degree hill which must be cut sideways. But you asked for a recommendation and that’s what I gave you, for a guy North of 70 who still cuts a large part of his lawn, with a walk behind mower. If you don’t like the answer don't berate the giver, it won’t help your cause.
#6
TonyPrin
TonyPrin
An important but not so obvious difference between riding and push mowers is maintenance. Riding mowers are significantly more time consuming and potentially costly to maintain than push mowers. A simple chore like sharpening the blades can become a project. In addition, riding mowers have more parts requiring maintenance. If you decide on a riding mower understand what's involved before you go forward.
Also, a riding mower on hills can be difficult, scary, or even dangerous and isn't recommended for some models. I suspect you're considering a rear engine riding mower which can be particularly problematic on hills. It may also be impossible to turn a riding mower around trees or other obstacles on a hill. In addition, you may not get traction when the lawn isn't dry so a riding mower should be avoided on hills if the grass isn't dry. I suggest you discuss the issue with your dealer.
Also, a riding mower on hills can be difficult, scary, or even dangerous and isn't recommended for some models. I suspect you're considering a rear engine riding mower which can be particularly problematic on hills. It may also be impossible to turn a riding mower around trees or other obstacles on a hill. In addition, you may not get traction when the lawn isn't dry so a riding mower should be avoided on hills if the grass isn't dry. I suggest you discuss the issue with your dealer.
#7
B
bertsmobile1
Choice is yours
Pay for throw away junk and that is what you will get
Double or triple that amount and you should not need to buy a new mower again.
B
bertsmobile1
For that price you might get a reasonable walk behind or a junk ride onWe recently moved to a place with 1/3 acre, with some slightly steep hills (easy to walk). Before, I had a tiny yard and an ancient B&D battery mower. We mowed it all last summer.
Our first solution was a Honda 3011. It does fairly well, but it is old, keeps having issues, and is poorly supported. It was a good "need it now" interim solution, but it needs to go. And I'm willing to spend a bit more, now that I've got some ideas on what I want.
I want to limit to around 30". I can do the entire yard in under an hour, and it fits well in our shed (40" may not even fit).
I've used a self propelled residential (mid-engine, small wheels) mower, and it was pretty awful. It's more like "power assist" -- you really still have to push it, especially on the steeper parts.
So, the question. I can find a few riding mowers in this size bracket, decent ones in the $500-750 range or so. Or, for a little more, I can get commercial style walk behinds (rear engine, big turf wheels, etc). My next door neighbor (similar size lawn, slightly less steep hills) has a pro service and they use a walk behind. The walk behind may store better, I think. It may also maneuver better. Is my yard a good candidate for this style, and is it worth the extra money? Are there upsides/downsides versus a similar ride on? I suspect that the steepest parts of the hill may be helped by my pushing, vs riding.
Thoughts?
Choice is yours
Pay for throw away junk and that is what you will get
Double or triple that amount and you should not need to buy a new mower again.
#8
S
sailingharry
S
sailingharry
Rivets has cautioned me against berating the giver, so I'll try not to.
I have and like a ride-on. Perhaps my target price for a replacement is off (and my target isn't really very firm -- I can buy what I want). But I really don't have any interest in going back to the push type I have. It's more time and effort than I want.
Most of the responses have compared a riding to a push. The riding is more maintenance (I haven't seen that much, but I've only had my ancient and dying Honda for a year -- my efforts have been "repairs" not "maintenance"). My question was comparing a riding to a walk behind (in my mind, a "push" is a classic residential mower, 4 tires all about the same size, an engine in the middle, the operator steers by pushing the handle side to side, only one operating speed, etc)
Bertsmobile's response indicated a walk behind was much less expensive than a riding -- I think he is talking about what I call a push. I've found many riding mowers in good condition for under $1K (haven't actually gone to look at them yet), although about 98% are too big to fit in my shed (most are 42+). What I call a "walk behind" is the commercial style, big rear wheels, steer like a zero turn, often a floating deck, etc. Most are also too big, with 42 being the start, but some are in the 30-36 range. They are rare below $1K.
TonyPrin kind of alluded to something that is an issue for me -- the riding mower struggles on a small part of my hill (under 5 minutes of the total job, but it's always a challenge). The push was a serious pain -- those little drive wheels just don't cut it, and even that super spiffy Toro that Rivets recommended still has the tiny wheels.
"Durability" is a bit of a low point on my scale. I am quite handy (currently finishing up a removal, complete teardown, and rebuild of my power boat engine), and if parts are available (a problem on my Honda 3011) I can fix most things -- not that I want to. It's important to remember that I run it about 10 hours a year -- so if a commerical shop sells somethihing that might last him another month, it will last me more than my lifetime. And conversely, if I buy a brand new one, my kids will inherit it (and sell it!) with 200 hours on the clock.
I have and use a riding. I have and used to use a push. I've never even touched a walk behind, let alone used one. And they are scarce in the residential scene -- the vast majority of homeowners who don't use a push go riding, not walk behind. Not sure if that is cost, or headache, or "style" (appearance, doing what the joneses do, etc), but when no one uses one it makes me ponder why. Lowes has nothing out front but riding mowers and zero turns, I don't think I saw a single walk behind.
The real question is, how does a commerical sytle walk behind compare to a riding (or, if they exist, a sub-36" zero turn)? Is it worth the extra 20-40% or so I see in the prices, or am I better getting another riding?
I have and like a ride-on. Perhaps my target price for a replacement is off (and my target isn't really very firm -- I can buy what I want). But I really don't have any interest in going back to the push type I have. It's more time and effort than I want.
Most of the responses have compared a riding to a push. The riding is more maintenance (I haven't seen that much, but I've only had my ancient and dying Honda for a year -- my efforts have been "repairs" not "maintenance"). My question was comparing a riding to a walk behind (in my mind, a "push" is a classic residential mower, 4 tires all about the same size, an engine in the middle, the operator steers by pushing the handle side to side, only one operating speed, etc)
Bertsmobile's response indicated a walk behind was much less expensive than a riding -- I think he is talking about what I call a push. I've found many riding mowers in good condition for under $1K (haven't actually gone to look at them yet), although about 98% are too big to fit in my shed (most are 42+). What I call a "walk behind" is the commercial style, big rear wheels, steer like a zero turn, often a floating deck, etc. Most are also too big, with 42 being the start, but some are in the 30-36 range. They are rare below $1K.
TonyPrin kind of alluded to something that is an issue for me -- the riding mower struggles on a small part of my hill (under 5 minutes of the total job, but it's always a challenge). The push was a serious pain -- those little drive wheels just don't cut it, and even that super spiffy Toro that Rivets recommended still has the tiny wheels.
"Durability" is a bit of a low point on my scale. I am quite handy (currently finishing up a removal, complete teardown, and rebuild of my power boat engine), and if parts are available (a problem on my Honda 3011) I can fix most things -- not that I want to. It's important to remember that I run it about 10 hours a year -- so if a commerical shop sells somethihing that might last him another month, it will last me more than my lifetime. And conversely, if I buy a brand new one, my kids will inherit it (and sell it!) with 200 hours on the clock.
I have and use a riding. I have and used to use a push. I've never even touched a walk behind, let alone used one. And they are scarce in the residential scene -- the vast majority of homeowners who don't use a push go riding, not walk behind. Not sure if that is cost, or headache, or "style" (appearance, doing what the joneses do, etc), but when no one uses one it makes me ponder why. Lowes has nothing out front but riding mowers and zero turns, I don't think I saw a single walk behind.
The real question is, how does a commerical sytle walk behind compare to a riding (or, if they exist, a sub-36" zero turn)? Is it worth the extra 20-40% or so I see in the prices, or am I better getting another riding?
#9
S
SeniorCitizen
S
SeniorCitizen
You get pissed off each time you need to type and talk on the cell ? It's no wonder this site is bout to fold . New member has probably already dumped this site in the dumpsterPossibly off topic, more like garbage to me. On topic, I would recommend a Toro Super Recycler. I use mine to cut about a 1/3 acre where my tractor won’t go and have never had a problem. I know they are a bit pricey, but you get what you pay for. I call these 20 year mowers when properly maintained and have never had anyone comeback and say to me it doesn’t do a good job. Disclaimer, I’m a Toro guy and have recommended and sold these units for over 30 years. Read my signature.
#10
TonyPrin
TonyPrin
sailingharry, I accept your point on push mowers. Technically, the term is walk behind, which can be push or self-propelled. Having said that, I think the comparisons were accurate for all walk behind mowers.
On maintenance, things like sharpening blades are multiple times more difficult on a riding mower. Sometimes, for example, the deck has to be removed to get at the blades if you don't jack it up. Also, the deck has to be level or the blades aren't level and the grass will be shaved on one side. In addition, something as simple as an underinflated tire can cause the blades to be unlevel.
I believe self-propelled mowers are ideal for 1/3-acre lawns and there are several Honda and Toro mowers in your price range. (Honda is moving from gas powered mowers so you should be able to find a good deal on them.) The Honda HRX217HYA, in particular, is a great machine.
For me, a riding mower for 1/3 acre is overkill unless you want to use attachments like a cart, spreader, or sweeper. The extra versatility of attachments is then a plus for riding mowers. I'd particularly stay away from a riding mower on hills when grass is wet. That's a recipe for disaster.
On maintenance, things like sharpening blades are multiple times more difficult on a riding mower. Sometimes, for example, the deck has to be removed to get at the blades if you don't jack it up. Also, the deck has to be level or the blades aren't level and the grass will be shaved on one side. In addition, something as simple as an underinflated tire can cause the blades to be unlevel.
I believe self-propelled mowers are ideal for 1/3-acre lawns and there are several Honda and Toro mowers in your price range. (Honda is moving from gas powered mowers so you should be able to find a good deal on them.) The Honda HRX217HYA, in particular, is a great machine.
For me, a riding mower for 1/3 acre is overkill unless you want to use attachments like a cart, spreader, or sweeper. The extra versatility of attachments is then a plus for riding mowers. I'd particularly stay away from a riding mower on hills when grass is wet. That's a recipe for disaster.
#11
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Senior, do you realize that there was a post between the OP’s first post and my first post, which you quoted. That post was inappropriate and was deleted. The OP requested info on which mower would be appropriate for his conditions. Based on the info he provided I gave my recommendation based on a couple years of experience. He then added more info, but I still don’t think he understands the difference between a push mower and a self propelled unit. Second it sounds like he has been using an elcheapo front wheel unit, which when compared to the Recycler I recommended is like comparing cherries to watermelons, they’re not in the same ballpark. Finally, if someone dislikes my replies there is a sure remedy, ignore me. Read my signature.
#12
S
sailingharry
S
sailingharry
Rivet
I am new to this, for sure. Until this house, I had a couple decades with a lead-acid B&D push mower (yes, starting back in the late 90s when battery was a real novelty), and it did all I needed. So bigger mowers are new to me -- the 30" riding mower I have now is the largest thing I've every used.
I have terminology issues between what I call the walk-behind and what I call the push, still not clear on what they should be called.
I currently also have a Poulan Pro 21" self propelled. It may be a "cheapie" but the propulsion is on the rear wheels, not the front wheels. I hated it -- upgrading to the Honda riding mower was a huge improvement in my quality of life (putting aside the effort to keep it going).
You all sound convincing in your endorsement of a high quality push mower. I have to admit, it's a hard sell -- I look at a 21" mower with 6" wheels and rear wheel propulsion like mine, and see that for $1000 I can buy a 21" mower with 8" wheels and rear wheel propulsion. It may indeed be "higher quality" and "last longer" and "start easier" and lots of other meaningful descriptors (I'm not being sarcastic here) -- but does it really climb the hill better than my push mower (without the wheels slipping/spinning like mine) or do the yard faster/eaier than my 30" ride on mower? If it really does, it's an easy decision. If I spend that coin and realize that the biggest benefit is it lasts longer, that's an expensive mistake.
Of course, that's the conundrum here. I *know* what I have. Anything else -- anything -- is a guess and a gamble. A new one, if I guess right, is a win -- or sold at significant loss. An old one, if I guess wrong, can be resold or scrapped. I certainly am hearing a chorus of "get a push mower" (and by that, I mean a residential style, not a commercial style -- regardless of quality). Maybe I can ask around for friends who may have a variety of units I can try, and see if my negativity is related to MY mower, not the TYPE of mower.
Oh, about wheels. Mine is rear wheel drive. That Honda mentioned (the HRX217HYA) doesn't say anything, but I sure think I see drive mechanism on the front wheels. Is it perhaps 4WD? That could make a big difference on the hill.
I am new to this, for sure. Until this house, I had a couple decades with a lead-acid B&D push mower (yes, starting back in the late 90s when battery was a real novelty), and it did all I needed. So bigger mowers are new to me -- the 30" riding mower I have now is the largest thing I've every used.
I have terminology issues between what I call the walk-behind and what I call the push, still not clear on what they should be called.
I currently also have a Poulan Pro 21" self propelled. It may be a "cheapie" but the propulsion is on the rear wheels, not the front wheels. I hated it -- upgrading to the Honda riding mower was a huge improvement in my quality of life (putting aside the effort to keep it going).
You all sound convincing in your endorsement of a high quality push mower. I have to admit, it's a hard sell -- I look at a 21" mower with 6" wheels and rear wheel propulsion like mine, and see that for $1000 I can buy a 21" mower with 8" wheels and rear wheel propulsion. It may indeed be "higher quality" and "last longer" and "start easier" and lots of other meaningful descriptors (I'm not being sarcastic here) -- but does it really climb the hill better than my push mower (without the wheels slipping/spinning like mine) or do the yard faster/eaier than my 30" ride on mower? If it really does, it's an easy decision. If I spend that coin and realize that the biggest benefit is it lasts longer, that's an expensive mistake.
Of course, that's the conundrum here. I *know* what I have. Anything else -- anything -- is a guess and a gamble. A new one, if I guess right, is a win -- or sold at significant loss. An old one, if I guess wrong, can be resold or scrapped. I certainly am hearing a chorus of "get a push mower" (and by that, I mean a residential style, not a commercial style -- regardless of quality). Maybe I can ask around for friends who may have a variety of units I can try, and see if my negativity is related to MY mower, not the TYPE of mower.
Oh, about wheels. Mine is rear wheel drive. That Honda mentioned (the HRX217HYA) doesn't say anything, but I sure think I see drive mechanism on the front wheels. Is it perhaps 4WD? That could make a big difference on the hill.
#13
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
When I talk about the Toro Super Recycler, I’m talking about the 21” unit not the 30” unit. I don’t like the 30” unit for the average home owner and I don’t feel the drive is as good. I’m sure that if you do a little research in your area you’ll find multiple people using these mowers. Personal Pace unit which will go as fast or slow as you would like. 3-1, meaning you can bag, mulch or side discharge. If it can handle my ditches, it will handle just about anything you throw at it. Test one at your local dealer,then make your decision.
#14
M
mmoffitt
M
mmoffitt
Run what you brung! see if you can get your mower issues? "sorted" if not, make a decision walk or ride ...and do your home work...buy something of quality...whatever that means in this day and age and plan on spending more than 5-7 hunn-ee on anything! good luck sirWe recently moved to a place with 1/3 acre, with some slightly steep hills (easy to walk). Before, I had a tiny yard and an ancient B&D battery mower. We mowed it all last summer.
Our first solution was a Honda 3011. It does fairly well, but it is old, keeps having issues, and is poorly supported. It was a good "need it now" interim solution, but it needs to go. And I'm willing to spend a bit more, now that I've got some ideas on what I want.
I want to limit to around 30". I can do the entire yard in under an hour, and it fits well in our shed (40" may not even fit).
I've used a self propelled residential (mid-engine, small wheels) mower, and it was pretty awful. It's more like "power assist" -- you really still have to push it, especially on the steeper parts.
So, the question. I can find a few riding mowers in this size bracket, decent ones in the $500-750 range or so. Or, for a little more, I can get commercial style walk behinds (rear engine, big turf wheels, etc). My next door neighbor (similar size lawn, slightly less steep hills) has a pro service and they use a walk behind. The walk behind may store better, I think. It may also maneuver better. Is my yard a good candidate for this style, and is it worth the extra money? Are there upsides/downsides versus a similar ride on? I suspect that the steepest parts of the hill may be helped by my pushing, vs riding.
Thoughts?
#15
Tiger Small Engine
Who said this site is about to fold? Seems like you are the only one.
Also, there is no way it will take you 90 minutes to two hours to mow 1/3 of an acre with a 21” self-propelled mower. More like 30 minutes .
Tiger Small Engine
You get pissed off each time you need to type and talk on the cell ? It's no wonder this site is bout to fold . New member has probably already dumped this site in the dumpster
Who said this site is about to fold? Seems like you are the only one.
Also, there is no way it will take you 90 minutes to two hours to mow 1/3 of an acre with a 21” self-propelled mower. More like 30 minutes .
#16
S
SamB
S
SamB
This just my personal opinion, but have you considered a used Snapper rear engine rider. There are several cutting width models to chose from. I would suggest a used one in good condition, tube frame style, not square frame style. Easy to maintain, good quality cut and parts can be had literally everywhere. easy to fit bigger rear tires for more traction on hills. Another plus, they can be stood on end for compact storage. Use an AGM battery for carefree easy tipping. Anyone even remotely handy with tools can maintain one of these mowers quite easily and dare I say, cheaply. Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/166527572177We recently moved to a place with 1/3 acre, with some slightly steep hills (easy to walk). Before, I had a tiny yard and an ancient B&D battery mower. We mowed it all last summer.
Our first solution was a Honda 3011. It does fairly well, but it is old, keeps having issues, and is poorly supported. It was a good "need it now" interim solution, but it needs to go. And I'm willing to spend a bit more, now that I've got some ideas on what I want.
I want to limit to around 30". I can do the entire yard in under an hour, and it fits well in our shed (40" may not even fit).
I've used a self propelled residential (mid-engine, small wheels) mower, and it was pretty awful. It's more like "power assist" -- you really still have to push it, especially on the steeper parts.
So, the question. I can find a few riding mowers in this size bracket, decent ones in the $500-750 range or so. Or, for a little more, I can get commercial style walk behinds (rear engine, big turf wheels, etc). My next door neighbor (similar size lawn, slightly less steep hills) has a pro service and they use a walk behind. The walk behind may store better, I think. It may also maneuver better. Is my yard a good candidate for this style, and is it worth the extra money? Are there upsides/downsides versus a similar ride on? I suspect that the steepest parts of the hill may be helped by my pushing, vs riding.
Thoughts?
#17
S
sparg45
S
sparg45
I agree. I do the same and have done so for 50 yrs. A small slope on one side that a rider couldn't do. His acreage is off.You are cutting more than a1/3 of an acre if it takes an hour. With my Toro I cut a 1/3 acre in about 45 minutes, with includes 200 feet of ditch and a 45 degree hill which must be cut sideways. But you asked for a recommendation and that’s what I gave you, for a guy North of 70 who still cuts a large part of his lawn, with a walk behind mower. If you don’t like the answer don't berate the giver, it won’t help your cause.
#18
B
barny57
B
barny57
Whether you want a walk behind or ride spend the money and get a good one probably be the last one you’ll have to buyWe recently moved to a place with 1/3 acre, with some slightly steep hills (easy to walk). Before, I had a tiny yard and an ancient B&D battery mower. We mowed it all last summer.
Our first solution was a Honda 3011. It does fairly well, but it is old, keeps having issues, and is poorly supported. It was a good "need it now" interim solution, but it needs to go. And I'm willing to spend a bit more, now that I've got some ideas on what I want.
I want to limit to around 30". I can do the entire yard in under an hour, and it fits well in our shed (40" may not even fit).
I've used a self propelled residential (mid-engine, small wheels) mower, and it was pretty awful. It's more like "power assist" -- you really still have to push it, especially on the steeper parts.
So, the question. I can find a few riding mowers in this size bracket, decent ones in the $500-750 range or so. Or, for a little more, I can get commercial style walk behinds (rear engine, big turf wheels, etc). My next door neighbor (similar size lawn, slightly less steep hills) has a pro service and they use a walk behind. The walk behind may store better, I think. It may also maneuver better. Is my yard a good candidate for this style, and is it worth the extra money? Are there upsides/downsides versus a similar ride on? I suspect that the steepest parts of the hill may be helped by my pushing, vs riding.
Thoughts?
#19
S
sailingharry
But, still, it's just shy of an hour on a 30" riding mower. Some time is spent fiddling in dead-end parts of the yard and cutting in around edges. But then the rest is running wide open (5th gear).
I should get a tape out (or even just pace it). My "lot" is actually 1.5 lots, so it's possible that when they were merged the records don't reflect the correct area.
But here's some interesting math. Assume my 16000 SF is right. Assume a 24" cut (probably what my 30" mower actually makes as I drive it). By dividing 16000/2, you get 8000 feet of driving, or 1.5 miles. An hour to go 1.5 miles at riding mower seems too long -- so maybe it is more area.
But that same math says that a walk behind with a 21" mower (assume 18" actual cut?) results in a walking distance of 16000/1.5, or almost exactly 2 miles -- I'd be impressed with anyone who could push a mower 2 miles in under an hour (exercise pace for walking is 3MPH)
S
sailingharry
I'll have to agree with this suggestion. I pulled the acerage off my tax records in SF (18000 SF, and then deduct some for the house and some garden beds.I agree. I do the same and have done so for 50 yrs. A small slope on one side that a rider couldn't do. His acreage is off.
But, still, it's just shy of an hour on a 30" riding mower. Some time is spent fiddling in dead-end parts of the yard and cutting in around edges. But then the rest is running wide open (5th gear).
I should get a tape out (or even just pace it). My "lot" is actually 1.5 lots, so it's possible that when they were merged the records don't reflect the correct area.
But here's some interesting math. Assume my 16000 SF is right. Assume a 24" cut (probably what my 30" mower actually makes as I drive it). By dividing 16000/2, you get 8000 feet of driving, or 1.5 miles. An hour to go 1.5 miles at riding mower seems too long -- so maybe it is more area.
But that same math says that a walk behind with a 21" mower (assume 18" actual cut?) results in a walking distance of 16000/1.5, or almost exactly 2 miles -- I'd be impressed with anyone who could push a mower 2 miles in under an hour (exercise pace for walking is 3MPH)
#20
1
1madmouse
1
1madmouse
I would think rent or borrow several different types and see how they well they mow in your actual situation. Then decide what works best for You. Most of us can only guess as we are not working with the same factors you experience in mowing your yard. On steep hills we would add ballast to get traction, but results may vary.
#21
7394
7394
#22
F
Freddie21
F
Freddie21
Might an AWD push mower be a solution. Such as a:
Toro 22′′ Personal Pace All Wheel Drive 163cc Briggs Walk Mower
#23
G
GearHead36
G
GearHead36
I would 2nd (or 3rd or whatever) the recommendation for a Toro Recycler. I had an MTD riding mower with a 36" deck, I think, and I bought a Recycler to replace it when I moved to a property (around 1/3 acre, as I recall) with hills that were marginal for the MTD. I couldn't mow across the hills with the rider. I had to mow straight up the hill, reverse back down the hill, repeat. The Recycler was only slightly slower than the rider, as I could mow up, down, or across the hills. The nice thing about Personal Pace is that it speeds up and slows down as you walk faster or slower, and the amount of force you have to apply is minimal. Mowing is almost like just taking a stroll around your property.
If you don't like that, I'd 2nd the recommendation for a Snapper Rear Engine Rider. I've never owned one, but I hear that they are very durable and reliable, and with the rear engine, might have better traction on the hills than what you have now. They're also less maintenance than most riding mowers.
If you don't like that, I'd 2nd the recommendation for a Snapper Rear Engine Rider. I've never owned one, but I hear that they are very durable and reliable, and with the rear engine, might have better traction on the hills than what you have now. They're also less maintenance than most riding mowers.