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I was mowing and it died suddenly, it didnt even spudder first. I replaced spark plug and it didnt help, it has good spark to it. I pulled the fuel line past the fuel filter and got flow, i put gas in a glass jar and didnt see water. Engine will turn well so the battery is good and like i said, i have spark.
If i have spark, then does that mean the interlock switches at the seat and under fuel tank are good? I dont want to buy the switches if theres nothing wrong with them. Only think else I can think of is that fuel isnt getting onto the pistons for some reason. Thanks for any input.

craftsman t2600 2018 model. briggs and stratton engine

If the engine is turning and you have spark, it's not a safety switch.
Give us the model of the mower, being a craftsman they usually start with 917. sometimes others due to being made by different manufacturers. Also give us the engine model numbers.
Did the engine make any knocks or bangs? also check your oil level.

its a craftsman t2600 247255880 model, its red. oil looks good, no knocks or bangs. just went dead and won't crank back up. I also took the air filter off thinking maybe it was too dirty, but it still wouldnt crank. it didnt look dirty. im glad to told me that if i have spark, then its not a switch... anything else????

Do you have any carburetor cleaner or starting fluid?
remove the spark splug and spray about 3 short bursts into the plug hole, reinstall then try start. if it goes bang, or bang bang bang then dies, it's probably a fuel issue.
You can also use gasoline, about 1 teaspoon or a little more should do.
Now, one thing i did forget to mention is the carburetor may have a fuel shutoff solenoid (usually referred to as anti backfire valve) It shuts of fuel to the main jet using a rubber plunger on the end of a steel rod. here is a picture of what the part looks like. Whenever you turn the key ON, not start, but ON you should hear it click. some seem to be louder than others with a CLICK and others a faint click.

I tried to turn on the key to hear a click from the carb, I didnt hear anything. I wonder if there is a switch that is bad that cuts the fuel?

That's what the anti backfire valve is (technically a solenoid, which is a switch) to remove it you usually need to grind down a 1/2" wrench to fit in between the bowl and flats on the solenoid. Sometimes cleaning will help them, but alot of times it wont.
but first i would check to see if there is power on that red wire when the key is on. Set a digital meter to 20 volts DC.

So when did an electromagnet became a switch?

It is an air core inductor that produces a strong magnet field which a moving iron core is used to either open/close a valve, to operation a mechanical switch, or other item that can operated via the pull or push of the magnetic field. Either way a solenoid itself is NOT a switch. Put two of these inductors in very closely to each they become a transformer using either a metal or air core with an AC voltage applied. In electronics they are even use as time delay devices and filters.

Glad i learned something new, i've always known the term solenoid to be associated with it as a switch.

Scrubcadet10 said:

That's what the anti backfire valve is (technically a solenoid, which is a switch) to remove it you usually need to grind down a 1/2" wrench to fit in between the bowl and flats on the solenoid. Sometimes cleaning will help them, but alot of times it wont.
but first i would check to see if there is power on that red wire when the key is on. Set a digital meter to 20 volts DC.

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to use the mutlimeter, do you hook the red wire to the wire you want to test and the black wire to mower's frame or something?

mymowerisbroke said:

to use the mutlimeter, do you hook the red wire to the wire you want to test and the black wire to mower's frame or something?

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yes, red wire to red wire, black wire to a good ground, such as a bolt or something on the frame. or engine

mymowerisbroke said:

to use the mutlimeter, do you hook the red wire to the wire you want to test and the black wire to mower's frame or something?

Click to expand...

Yes. If you do the other way, the reading will be in "negative volts" if you have voltage there, but it won't hurt anything. Read the instruction manual or look online, pretty much all operate the same.

I hooked the multi meter to the wire that goes to the carb bowl, it lite up when i turn on the key so i guess its getting power all the way to the carb. Can i assume now that something inside the carb/engine is preventing fuel from getting to piston?

Run down so far, changed spark plug, checked fuel for water and flow up to carb, it gets spark on plug, engine turns but won't start, gets power up to carb, checked oil level and air filter. what else?

mymowerisbroke said:

I hooked the multi meter to the wire that goes to the carb bowl, it lite up when i turn on the key so i guess its getting power all the way to the carb. Can i assume now that something inside the carb/engine is preventing fuel from getting to piston?

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And does that carburetor solenoid click/operate when it gets that positive voltage?

I didnt hear anything when i tried...

That could be it. Now from your other post i gather you used a test light?

I'm not sure what a test light is, i just used a multimeter and stuck the red prong into the wire socket and the black on the frame,, turned the key and saw that the meter numbers rose rapidly.

mymowerisbroke said:

I'm not sure what a test light is, i just used a multimeter and stuck the red prong into the wire socket and the black on the frame,, turned the key and saw that the meter numbers rose rapidly.

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what did the numbers go to? should be around 12 volts or 12.5 volts