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I have been surveying the market. A 38" 12hp would do me fine, it is what I'm replacing after my 20 year old MTD bit the dust in the last storm. I really liked that $80 mower....

Walmart has the Murray M1338, 15.5hp "Powerbuilt" B&S: $998, 38" cut
Poulan has a 42" 17.5hp w/ B&S IC engine $1,129 (Ace Hardware). Model 960120110
HD has the 42" Ariens 17.5hp, $999 understand may be same as the Poulan, doesn't say I/C in the description, though. Model 960160027
Then there is the MTD models w/ the Boulan and Yard Machines badge w/ different 12.5-15.5hp B&S.

I can also get a reconditioned Craftsman 28856 for about $1200, that gets really good reviews, i have not seen it, but it could be a monster with a 24hp

So, any models to avoid or suggestions on what to look for? I'm basically just sucking up leaves and cutting the lawn maybe 20 times a season, really light duty, just don't want to end up with something that is going to be frustrating.

Sound to me like you just need a light duty mower and you got 20 years from your first one. I realy can't see too much differant in the price range type mower you are looking at. I would keep away from the Weedeater or the Kholer courage engine.

+1 on avoiding the Kohler Courage line. They seem to have a lot of problems.:frown:

I too am in the market (brand new to this forum) and looking to replace a 17hp Murray 42" with something of similar size. I have 3/4 acre to mow, and don't mind going a little smaller or bigger. I don't want to spend a lot, as we're not sure we'll be here long term. Have seen a few local rigs for sale recently, close by is a Troy Built 42" 17.5 (Briggs) that he claims doesn't even have a tank of gas through it for $900. It's a 7 speed that he says bought at Lowes 2 months ago for about $1,200.

I have had a lot of problems lately with the drive belt popping off, no matter if I adjust the tension, replaced the belt with a 3/4" smaller one, etc. No loose motor mounts, nothing makes sense. It has other issues (it's seen quite a few hours) but am tired of trying to fix it every time I mow. Not sure what to do except go back to mowing with push mower I use for close spaces...

Thanks for any advice - Outside Dog

If you are having a problem with the belt coming off and can't see a reason I would say you have the wrong belt. Mowers take a different style belt. It might be a little on the pricey side but make sure you are getting the right belt for your mower from a good dealer.

My son bought me a Sears Craftsman 30 inch 420cc 6 speed riding mower last month.
I spent a good deal of time looking at Cadets, Husks, etc all in the range of $1500-$2500.

I've got about 1/2 acre, mostly flat and the Sears looked like it would do the job.

So far, so good.

First time on a rider for me so I started a slooow speed. Now I'm up to notch 3 speed.

(I'm 77 with arthritis)

Minor complaints: (1) I can't figure out how to be able to get off without shutting down the engine.
Some say it can't be done but others disagree. (2) The shift lever under the seat is a bit hard to reach with my back. A two or three inch extension would be great.

I talked the sales guy into the internet price - $949 and got a 10% vet's discount. With a 5 year warranty it all came to about $1300.

All in all a good buy.

Researched riding mowers in the 1,000 dollar range before I bought one. Did not think there was much difference in that price range. However, in that range, the Poulan Pro 300 EX and 500 EX had the thickest guage metal decks. They are also one of the few if only mowers in that price range with real steel decks. Then I waited for a deal on craigs list (buyer beware craigslist). Found a guy that was moving out of state and had to sell everything. I bought a barely used Poulan Pro 300 Ex, 42" (fits well in the back of a truck bed), 18hp Briggs I/C, 6 speed for $500. Works very well.

....just wish it was Snapper Red :biggrin:

Jimvt, most of those riders have to have the parking brake engaged before you can leave the seat with it running.

make sure the blades are disengaged and the parking break is set and you should be able to get off the mower with it running

I ended up getting a 1994 Powr Kraft 18hp Twin II, 42" cut w/ hydrostatic transmission. I'm loving it. A definite upgrade from my 1988 12hp IC, 38", 6 speed (MTD 139-658-372). It turns more sharply, handles better, cuts MUCH faster and effortlessly and is quieter. I paid $300 for it in very good condition. I can reuse my rear bagging attachment.

I was seriously considering getting a refurbished rider from the Craftsman outlet. I'm providing a link. I was a bit anxious about buying a new mower, given most everything on the market nowadays is so cheaply constructed, so I went the used route. Glad I did, at least so far.

Sears Outlet: Discount appliances, refrigerators, dishwashers, laundry equipment, lawn tractors[90100+TO+135000]&cid=2147483647&st=0&check_store_types=&flt_sp=[90100+TO+135000]

The 42" 24hp V Twin w/ hydrostatic xmission looked good to me and widely available for around $1K:

http://www.searsoutlet.com/42-24hp-...id=972&mode=buyUsedOnly&itemSelectionType=all

Blade Runner said:

However, in that range, the Poulan Pro 300 EX and 500 EX had the thickest guage metal decks. They are also one of the few if only mowers in that price range with real steel decks.

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Just curious since I don't know much about the big box store mowers, but what kind of decks are on the the ones that don't have "real steel" decks?

I wondered the same thing.

the commercial machines will have manufactured decks on then there the big heavy looking decks there ones you see at the big box stores are called stamped decks there not welded there just stamped out by a big punch press in a factory the manufactured decks will be pieces of steel cut out and welded together much heaver and much better

I will find the online articles about the $1000 range riding mowers and steel decks and post them. I agree with scott. However, I was referring to the less expensive riding mower stamped decks. Some stamped decks are made of heavier guage metal and are comprised of more steel. Others are thinner and have less steel and more alloys.

Many have reported that some late model riding mower decks warp or bend too easily. When they attempt to repair the deck by welding them, the weld will not hold because they are made of less steel and or the decks are thinner than older models. Some of the late model riders with those types of decks can be found at home improvement chain stores. I prefer to not make negative comments against a specific brand, as people often take negative comments about their property too personnal.

Blade Runner said:

I will find the online articles about the $1000 range riding mowers and steel decks and post them. I agree with scott. However, I was referring to the less expensive riding mower stamped decks. Some stamped decks are made of heavier guage metal and are comprised of more steel. Others are thinner and have less steel and more alloys.

Many have reported that some late model riding mower decks warp or bend too easily. When they attempt to repair the deck by welding them, the weld will not hold because they are made of less steel and or the decks are thinner than older models. Some of the late model riders with those types of decks can be found at home improvement chain stores. I prefer to not make negative comments against a specific brand, as people often take negative comments about their property too personnal.

Click to expand...

These folks need to find actual welders, not people who call themselves being able to weld! I've been involved in the welding field for all of my adult life from managing a pressure vessel weld shop for 13 years to now selling welding supplies to the military, part of what I do is show people there is a better way. There is products out there that will weld dissimilar metals at low temps, perfect for mower decks. So are even designed to burn thru oil, grease and paint.