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34G777 Briggs revs too high. It will throttle up and down. But the high is too high. And the low is also too high, even after throttle down. When the throttle is all the way down, it tries to die.
I've set the governor (twice) replaced the carb (for other reasons). The gov. spring looks ok. The short fat spring behind the bracket that holds everything isn't bent. The linkage from the governor to the carb isn't bent either. Everything seems to be in it's right shape and position.

I'm at a loss.

Note: When you throttle the engine down, it does throttle down.

I have a question for you......... When you are at wide open throttle which way does the gov arm move ?? Counter clockwise or clock wise ??

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

I have a question for you......... When you are at wide open throttle which way does the gov arm move ?? Counter clockwise or clock wise ??

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The arm that comes out of the block, with the throttle as low as it'll got, when I increase the throttle, that arm turns clockwise until I get just a little shy of 1/2 throttle. You can barely see it move. But it does move clockwise.

Note: That's with the engine off.

I bent the little arm that holds the short fat spring that connects to the governor arm, and that helped, but didn't fix the problem. And now, seems there's some back firing coming through the carburetor. And it's surging now. (New carb)

Check out this Youtube vid, watch till very end !! shows Gov. adjusting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7rvHH0IPPk

Boobala said:

Check out this Youtube vid, watch till very end !! shows Gov. adjusting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7rvHH0IPPk

Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure I got the governor adjustment down. In this video, at the 10:25 mark, he mentions the governor having some wear. But also makes it sound as if just adjusting it can stop the reving up and down that's also what's going on. (which is why I installed the new carb).

One thing to note about the gov adjustment, I lo0sen the arm (that connects the rod & spring from the carb), turn the governor stud clockwise, but the arm itself, won't reach the bracket. On others I've adjusted, seems like I was able to push the arm all the way to the bracket, then tighten it up.

https://youtu.be/XbFyGRixoGA

"34G777 Briggs"

What is a B&S 34G777?

Walt Conner

Tinkerer200 said:

"34G777 Briggs"

What is a B&S 34G777?

Walt Conner

Click to expand...

It may have been a 31G. It probably is.

hrdman2luv said:

I'm pretty sure I got the governor adjustment down. In this video, at the 10:25 mark, he mentions the governor having some wear. But also makes it sound as if just adjusting it can stop the reving up and down that's also what's going on. (which is why I installed the new carb).

One thing to note about the gov adjustment, I lo0sen the arm (that connects the rod & spring from the carb), turn the governor stud clockwise, but the arm itself, won't reach the bracket. On others I've adjusted, seems like I was able to push the arm all the way to the bracket, then tighten it up.

https://youtu.be/XbFyGRixoGA

Click to expand...

Ok the throttle linkage has to be on there to adjust the gov.... When throttle is wide open hold that round plate and gov arm while the bolt is loose.. Then turn the gov shaft clockwise and tighten the bolt.... I messed a couple times in my younger days by not holding everything in place........ We all did it at one time or another messing up something.... If it's wrong it won't throttle the right way......

Let us know again again mon Ami ~~!~

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

Ok the throttle linkage has to be on there to adjust the gov.... When throttle is wide open hold that round plate and gov arm while the bolt is loose.. Then turn the gov shaft clockwise and tighten the bolt.... I messed a couple times in my younger days by not holding everything in place........ We all did it at one time or another messing up something.... If it's wrong it won't throttle the right way......

Let us know again again mon Ami ~~!~

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I think I did that. I used a rubber band to hold the throttle plate on the carb open. That way I could hold the governor bracket to the right, while holding clockwise tension on the gov stud. Then tightening up the bracket nut.

BTW, the gov spring (behind the bracket/cover) is loose when the trottle is low, and tight when throttle is up. So, I'm guessing that's normal.

I'm thinking, as your pointing out, I'm missing something simple.

One thing I just noticed, when I throttle it up, the engine revs up, but the throttle on the carb doesn't move.

https://youtu.be/HpI7qkdftd4

All this time I thought you were working on a V twin... Hence my post on holding the ROUND throttle part on the control.... Oh well..

You sure do have a miss every now and then.... Put a load on it and see what it does....

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

All this time I thought you were working on a V twin... Hence my post on holding the ROUND throttle part on the control.... Oh well..

You sure do have a miss every now and then.... Put a load on it and see what it does....

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When I put a load on it, it does the same thing as if it's just sitting there idling.

Tell me something, since the throttle plate doesn't move, when you throttle it up & down from the dash, then the ONLY thing it could be (since the throttle plate isn't stuck) is the govenor inside the sump. What could be wrong with that, to make it idle too high?


Note: The throttle plate isn't sticking, the arm from the govenor to the carb isn't rubbing on anything and the throttle cable is in connected property.

hrdman2luv said:

One thing I just noticed, when I throttle it up, the engine revs up, but the throttle on the carb doesn't move.

https://youtu.be/HpI7qkdftd4

Click to expand...

Must be bewitched to accomplish this.

Walt Conner

Tinkerer200 said:

Must be bewitched to accomplish this.

Walt Conner

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Watch the video. The throttle plate on the cab doesn't move, unless the governor moves it. When it's reving up and down. It's weird.

I took the sump off, and the governor was fine. It wasn't in it's correct spot. But that could've been from removing the sump. And tips on what to look for, before I put it back together?

Seem's to me we thought it was a twin, now I see it's a single OHV eng. take a look at this manual, see SECTION 5 .. Pages 91 & 92
let's see if this is the problem .

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6NaqjIxWV1ybEN0LWo3azl6OUU/edit

Just out of curiosity, ...... is your carb linkages installed correctly .. ?? just a thought ! this is my engines ( 17.5 Briggs Nikki carb )

..................

Boobala said:

Seem's to me we thought it was a twin, now I see it's a single OHV eng. take a look at this manual, see SECTION 5 .. Pages 91 & 92
let's see if this is the problem .

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6NaqjIxWV1ybEN0LWo3azl6OUU/edit

Click to expand...

I can't see anything that looks different. I took the governor out. It looks ok to me. Still in one piece. No pieces of anything in the engine. I reset the governor again, as all the diagrams and video's show to do.
But one thing still, that has to be part of the problem, when I move the throttle lever on the dash, it only moves the slide on the bracket that it connects to. It doesn't transfer that to the throttle plate on the carb. As seen in the video I posted.
Although, when I increase the throttle on the dash, it does throttle up and down. It's just way to high on both ends.

If you have the service manual it will tell you the top running RPM's to set it at... You will need a tach for that.......

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

If you have the service manual it will tell you the top running RPM's to set it at... You will need a tach for that.......

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I sent him a service manual, see earlier posts.

ALSO check page 17 0f service manual for cable adjusting

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

If you have the service manual it will tell you the top running RPM's to set it at... You will need a tach for that.......

Click to expand...

I don't have a tach. Or know how to set the governor. As far as I know, they're sort of preset. Except for being able to bend the place where the governor spring attaches. And Unless I'm mistaken, I didn't see any way of adjusting anything. You just loosen the nut, turn the govenor clockwise, while holding the loose lever to the right as well. And it should be set.

Pardon my ignorance guys, but I've never seen this before.

Briggs make a tool for setting the gov... It's called a tang bender and in the service manual it shows exactly how to do 2 different gov settings...

Once you got the gov adjustment done at the arm and gov stud itself then you have to adjust the tang.. Idle adjust and high speed adjust.........You do those with the TANG bender ~!~!

Also section 1... page 20 shows the adjustments for your engine.... and like Boo said page 17 shows how to set the throttle cable.. That is important ............

Boobala said:

HELLO !!!

HAVE YOU EVEN CHECKED THE PREVIOUS POSTS ?? I'm beginning to think we are talking to a %$#@$$#@ wall !!

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Sorry, I meant I didn't know how to set the RPM's. They're from what I understand, they're sort of factory set with no adjustments on this engine set up. From what I read on the pages you listed for the link, I didn't see what could make the manual throttle lever, not control the throttle. The cable from the dash lever goes to the sliding plate. Which connects to a spring that's connected to the choke lever. It's like there's nothing connecting the throttle cable to the actual carburetor.

hrdman2luv said:

Sorry, I meant I didn't know how to set the RPM's. They're from what I understand, they're sort of factory set with no adjustments on this engine set up. From what I read on the pages you listed for the link, I didn't see what could make the manual throttle lever, not control the throttle. The cable from the dash lever goes to the sliding plate. Which connects to a spring that's connected to the choke lever. It's like there's nothing connecting the throttle cable to the actual carburetor.

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Go BACK to see pics on post # 18.... the throttle rod with lonnng delicate spring for the carb is connected to the arm behind the throttle cable control plate, the throttle cable moves the linkage ON the CONTROL PLATE which in turn moves the linkage of the carburetor, be sure you have set the throttle CABLE on the control plate as shown in the manual.

that lever behind the plate which that lonnnng spring and throttle rod connects to is the Governor arm

So I adjust the valves and bent the stop on the throttle control plate. That seems to do the trick. With the exception of the up and down reving. At about medium idle, it lopes like it's got a huge cam in it, and will die. But at high idle, it revs up & down. At high throttle and the deck engaged, it runs a lot better. So correct me if I'm wrong, I'm thinking I got a bad carburetor.

BTW, thanks for all your replies. I'm a dummy at this stuff, I know it. But being a trucker for 15 years, and no longer able to do so (because of my knee), trying to fix small engines is some sort of income. I usually don't have this much trouble. This one has been a real nightmare.

Connection between the two- that is the question. Ultimately the throttle plate in the carburetor controls the engine speed. And they do sometimes come loose on these. You can inspect it easily by removing the upper shroud and the elbow that is held to the end of the carb. The governor assembly inside the engine is what controls the linkage to the throttle shaft. So if all else looks good, that should be your answer.

gardrner said:

Connection between the two- that is the question. Ultimately the throttle plate in the carburetor controls the engine speed. And they do sometimes come loose on these. You can inspect it easily by removing the upper shroud and the elbow that is held to the end of the carb. The governor assembly inside the engine is what controls the linkage to the throttle shaft. So if all else looks good, that should be your answer.

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I noticed during all of this trial and error, that I could push the governor arm (that's connected to the throttle plate, forward, and the engine would idle down, as it should That's why I questioned why I even took the sump off. I should've known better. Because if you can lower the engines RPM's by moving the gov arm, then the governor on the inside is adjusted. Maybe not dead center.
So, i'm guessing now that it's all in the carb.

Maybe what you said is absolutely right. But I don't remember the throttle plate being sticky, when the governor linkage wasn't connected.

Well, I think the catastrophe is over. Finally. I took the stuff (bowl gasket, O ring and needle) out of the new (bad carb) and put into one that I'd cleaned a few weeks ago (and had in storage). It reved up and down at high idle for about a minute. I shut it off, kicked and cussed a little bit. Then cranked it back up.
And high idle or low, it ran smooth. It idled down, way down, without dying. Revved way up with surging.

Still scratching my head about it. But it would seem that it's fixed.



Knocking on wood... (ouch)

Ok i didn't look over the last 3 pages to look for it......... Did you ever take the welch plug out of the carb and soak it in a ultra sonic bath ?????

I had one surging on me until I finally took that damn thing out and got it soaked in my regular chem dip all day .............

Then pressed a new one in and GLORY BE it was a huge difference ~!~!

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

Ok i didn't look over the last 3 pages to look for it......... Did you ever take the welch plug out of the carb and soak it in a ultra sonic bath ?????

I had one surging on me until I finally took that damn thing out and got it soaked in my regular chem dip all day .............

Then pressed a new one in and GLORY BE it was a huge difference ~!~!

Click to expand...

I usually don't mess with those if the rest of the carb is clean. I could've been just lucky, but every plug I've ever taken out of a fairly clean carb, I found the crevice behind the welsh plug to be clean as well.

The crevice behind the welsh plug is for gas or air?