Replacing the transmission drive belt on a LT1045 '08

[LT1045wrh]

Hi,
I'm trying to find help on how to replace the transmission drive belt on my CC LT1045, 2008.
Have less than 200hrs on this machine and really am about fed up. Finally got the thing mowing again and after a few passes, the mower stopped moving. Had the cruise control on, but the mower just stopped. After assessing the problem, it seems as though the drive belt has jumped off of the motor pulley. Also, the belt seems to be chewed up in various areas, so will need replaced. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you,
WRH

 

[KennyV]

Welcome to LMF...

That is not going to be much fun, so be sure you are reasonably happy to start this job...
You will need to remove the deck to get to things better...
The trans drive belt is above the deck drive and not that easy to get to...
Note the idler pulley path, and check the guides and pulleys for alignment.... keep smiling you will get through this... it will be a pain. :smile:KennyV

 

[LT1045wrh]

Thanks, I know it's going to be a finger pincher and knuckle buster, but I'm willing. All the instructions I've read indicate that I have to take the PTO pulley off, is this a for sure thing, or can I work the belt around that pulley and up through the opening?
Thank you,
WRH

 

[KennyV]

... All the instructions I've read indicate that I have to take the PTO pulley off, is this a for sure thing, or can I work the belt around that pulley and up through the opening?
...
WRH

I'm not sure... but I have a feeling you will soon be able to tell us if it can be done without removing it...
Good luck and post back... :smile:KennyV

 

[jross]

I do not know about the LT1045, but both drive belts are removed via the hole under the battery on my 1000. The electric pto and drive pulley have to removed from the engine shaft. I read somewhere that a person just cut off the belt guide tabs around the drive pulley because he couldn't get the pto off. He stated that there was no problem with the drive belt coming off with the tabs removed. Maybe he had the two pulleys running true.

 

[benski]

We normally end up taking an impact gun to get the pto clutch off. This job is less than fun. Be sure to use a premium quality belt when it all goes back in...:biggrin:

 

[Jetblast]

Impact gun to remove the PTO for sure, but that's the easy part.

The job is a SOB for sure. Cub Cadet riding mower bodies have belt keeper tabs stamped into them around the engine crankshaft pulley, which are entirely unnecessary for hydro type mowers IMO, but there they are, and they make it so you can't slip the belt over the crankshaft pulley.

You either have to remove the exhaust and then lift the engine an inch or two, or do what I did on my old CC SLT-1554 and grind off the belt keeper tabs. I thought I could do it easily with my angle grinder, but it wouldn't fit in there so I ended up using a drill with an assortment of grinding bits. It was hell, but if you do choose the latter, future drive belt changes will be a walk in the park.

Important note: If you decide to grind off the belt keeper tabs, be very careful not to ding or otherwise molest the very fragile crankshaft pulley. I dented mine and then went through a couple of days of torture getting it off. Apparently they don't use anti-seize compound at the factory, so I had to spray the top with PB Blaster and let it soak overnight, then heat the pulley with a heat gun all the while beating the shaft of a three pronged puller I'd attached. To top it all off, since the pulley is soft metal, I couldn't get a good grip with the puller without bending the pulley, so I had to fabricate a thick backing plate to go over the top of it.

I guess what I'm trying to say is, taking it to the dealer will be money well spent.

 

[LT1045wrh]

Hello Everyone and thank you for all the input. Here's how my job went:

1. Day one - Removed mowing deck and took a long look at the project. Decided to tackle the transmission belt removal on day two. Need to get 3/8" rope, spk plug wrench, torque wrench and V-belt. Also had to get a fan and cooler w/drinks, as it is very hot in the garage.

2. Day two - Did not have to use a jack or lift. Everything was done with the tractor sitting on its wheels as is. Disconnected the negative battery cable for safety. Was able to remove the PTO with ease using a socket wrench and stuffing rope down the spark plug hole. I was amazed at how much rope went in the hole. The PTO connection wires were very difficult to disconnect. I kept working at the connection and it finally came apart. Noticed the belt keeper tabs around the crankshaft pulley and decided to bend them back by using a hammer and a long bolt with a nut on the end. I was able to pound them away from the pulley just enough to get the V-belt around the pulley, then I pounded them back into position. This effort was the hardest part for me. I'm sure it was a lot less effort than trying to get the crank shaft pulley off, which I did not do. Another tough part for me was muscling the tensor pulleys enough to get the belts (transmission and deck) back on.

I found a website that sells the V-belts pretty cheap, I was able to buy a better belt for the transmission.
vbeltsforless.com A76K A-SECTION KEVLAR (K-PLUS) $10.37
I think the measurements were 77"L x 1/2"W
Also, while I had the mower in the garage, I went ahead and changed the spark plug and put on new mowing blades.
Once the job was done, I was a little nervous to go out and mow, but I did and it worked fine. I mowed for about 2hrs. Guess it's fixed for now.
Overall the job took about 3-5hrs for me. I work slow and take many breaks.
Happy mowing and thanks again,
Wendy

 

[KennyV]

Hey I do appreciate the 'how it went' description...
I think any problem that you put a bit of thought into will almost always work out...

The only exception I would have made is the bending of the belt guard tabs... You generally only get to bend a few times, then things crack... I would have tried the pulley removal and reapplied antiseize ... but then if it looked doable I may have gone the way you chose...
In any case, you did go with a superior belt ... So it should be a long time before it needs done again... :smile:KennyV

 

[Jetblast]

I wish I'd thought of that "bending the tabs" trick. I'd have left them bent out for the next belt change, but I can't really criticize your approach since your first attempt was several magnitudes more successful than mine. Nice work. :thumbsup: