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Refused to buy a repro ignition switch. Dealers inventory had no branding or packaging to indicate it is any better than after market. But the dealers did have a single brass spade, so I bought it. (after market appear all aluminum). It was after that install that my problem began.
When pulling the blade knob to engage nothing out of the ordinary, no delay the blades engage, but depressing blade button does not disengage the blade. PTO is obviously not the issue as the blades engage. Right? Any suggestion on trouble shooting?
Logical reasoning depressing the knob to disengage, is not being acknowledged. Anything further?
Fast Trak Mini 36" Honda GXV530 Model: 927376
Thanks in advance.

So how do you disengage the blades turn the switch off?

hlw49 said:

So how do you disengage the blades turn the switch off?

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Now yes, that is the only way to stop the blades from spinning. Before this repair, you would push the knob down, blades would stop. When you wanted to mow again pull knob up.

Manicurist said:

Refused to buy a repro ignition switch. Dealers inventory had no branding or packaging to indicate it is any better than after market. But the dealers did have a single brass spade, so I bought it. (after market appear all aluminum). It was after that install that my problem began.
When pulling the blade knob to engage nothing out of the ordinary, no delay the blades engage, but depressing blade button does not disengage the blade. PTO is obviously not the issue as the blades engage. Right? Any suggestion on trouble shooting?
Logical reasoning depressing the knob to disengage, is not being acknowledged. Anything further?
Fast Trak Mini 36" Honda GXV530 Model: 927376
Thanks in advance.

Click to expand...

What prompted you to replace the switch to begin with?

Aftermarket switches are a best guess. Did you get it from an actual Hustler dealer or an independent repair shop that only claims it is correct? Not all switches are pinned the same or correctly.

it is more likely that the PTO clutch is sticking or the PTO switch is defective. The PTO switch would turn off the power to the clutch no matter what if it is good.

As for switch unlike Delta switches Indak does not put their PN on their switches so we have to depend on our vendors for the correct crosses so the internal configs are correct.

Auto Doc's said:

What prompted you to replace the switch to begin with?

Aftermarket switches are a best guess. Did you get it from an actual Hustler dealer or an independent repair shop that only claims it is correct? Not all switches are pinned the same or correctly.

Click to expand...

It is a 2004 model. The key hole was just worn out. Hustler dealer. I have only used OEM on this machine +/- blades. Past 4 years, the parts mostly seem generic or aftermarket. They used to be presented in a branded pouch or bag or tag with part number. Now you get a generic looking no brand no manufacture mark, just a raw part handed to you and you have to trust them it is the number you need. This ignition switch wasn't any different but as I said it did have one spade in brass, and the amazon/on line options didn't, so I went with the dealer full retail Hustler.

And there is only 29 3 position Indak magneto switches and none have a part number on them. Dumb I know but is how Indak does things.

If you read the wiring I posted you see there is no way the new is preventing the PTO from electrically shutting down. Only the PTO switch; unless, someone not knowing what they are doing rewired the circuit.

Note things can fail at any time. Otherwords just because it work before you replace the ignition doesn't mean it fail the during the time as you replace the ignition switch.

Manicurist said:

It is a 2004 model. The key hole was just worn out. Hustler dealer. I have only used OEM on this machine +/- blades. Past 4 years, the parts mostly seem generic or aftermarket. They used to be presented in a branded pouch or bag or tag with part number. Now you get a generic looking no brand no manufacture mark, just a raw part handed to you and you have to trust them it is the number you need. This ignition switch wasn't any different but as I said it did have one spade in brass, and the amazon/on line options didn't, so I went with the dealer full retail Hustler.

Click to expand...

If it is a 2004 model, you are under the illusion that you are getting genuine OEM. (You are only paying dealer prices for a "best guess" wrong aftermarket part)

Aside from that, all of the electrical components are supplied by aftermarket contracted vendors anyway. The "factory" is just the assembly location, and they have multiple locations around the world.

Remove the new switch and look at the plastic at the base of the pins, there will be tiny letters usually molded in. The pin assignments on original worn switch needs to be compared to the new one.

Dealers don't always sell "genuine" bagged and boxed parts; they are in business to make money regardless. Don't expect their parts people to be aware of internal switch differences that are common. I ran into this a couple of times a year when I was a service manager at a JD dealer.

As StarTech mentioned, there are many switch variations. You cannot go by basic looks alone.

Can you reinstall/ reconnect the old switch temporarily and still have the same issue?

You will likely find the correct part through Jack's small engine, Parts Tree or EBAY. You will have to look it up by your product label tag ID numbers.

Check to see if power is still at the clutch connector when PTO switch is turned off. Will isolate switch or clutch.

Don't believe you problem is ignition switch related, as the PTO switch should be the disconnect for the clutch unless you have a RIO and the key switch is the wrong one and is backfeeding the clutch.

Compare the terminals on the old switch with the new switch to be sure the new one is correct. terminals or the disk they are mounted on should be stamped with letters as B, L, I, M, S, A, G etc. May not be all leters and may e more.

When PTO won't shut off test the wire to it to see if the current is really shut off.

Here are the 3 and 4 position switches made by indak, they do not list the terminal positions but note the connections in different positions.





Here is the pages for stens listing indak switches. Click on part number to see termial layout.

here is one switch notice terminal position

bentrim said:

Don't believe you problem is ignition switch related, as the PTO switch should be the disconnect for the clutch unless you have a RIO and the key switch is the wrong one and is backfeeding the clutch.

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Just how do explain a back feeding of the PTO clutch from the ignition switch?

The only for clutch to receive power is via the PTO switch [which is an on/off switch] via the ignition switch.

As mention it can be a clutch failure to disengage even though its power source is removed. This is why some mowers has a damper diode in the PTO circuit.

StarTech said:

Just how do explain a back feeding of the PTO clutch from the ignition switch?
View attachment 71970
The only for clutch to receive power is via the PTO switch [which is an on/off switch] via the ignition switch.

As mention it can be a clutch failure to disengage even though its power source is removed. This is why some mowers has a damper diode in the PTO circuit.

Click to expand...

Without a RIO that should not be possible IF the correct switch is installed. But it the mower has RIO,which according to the diagram it does not, that again should not be possible but I have seen electric do strange things. Best to take a volt reading on the clutch wire to be sure it is no voltage in it. Then one would assume the clutch is damaged or a bearing is bad. I once condemed a JD 345 for a locked engine only to find the clutch bearing had locked up. Doh!
According to the OEM trining I have recieved the diode is to kill excessive voltage spike from the clutch when it is shut off. It sends it to ground instead of back thru the wiring where it was destroying switches. Just as with any coil a voltage spike is caused when a coil is turned off. Years ago I got a jolt from a 12 volt relay, touching the wrong terminal when it was turned off.

Relays can go into self cycling if the diode is not there.

Here one of my stupid mistakes for you. While working a linear amp, I drained the power supply caps. While the unit was still unplugged they recharge themselves because whoever built the amp didn't install the bleeders. It took off part of my finger tip with a 3rd degree burn. Ever since I make those bleeders are there and if not install them.

When the owner brought in the amp, he said it was a 500 watts unit. When it left the shop it was peaking over 1500 watts. I actually burn up my mini RG8 800 watt cable and had to replace it.