BuddyRegrub
Forum Newbie
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2016
- Threads
- 1
- Messages
- 1
Process to replace drive belt JD LT150
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
replace drive belt john deere LT150 hydro trans
- Thread starter BuddyRegrub
- Start date
More options
Export threadbertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2014
- Threads
- 65
- Messages
- 24,995
The higher you get the mower off the ground, the easier it will be to do.
I remove the mowing deck then remove the battery & drain the fuel then stand the mower vertical.
In that position it is easy to work on and obvious how to do it.
The belt runs down either side of the steering shaft so you will need to remove the steering stem or undo both drag links. The latter is easier and ding it at the wheel end is easier still.
You will also need to remove the clutch/brake spring and both pulleys.
The pulleys are held in with coach bolts so it is a lot easier to do than it sounds, just slip your finger behind to keep the square section on the bolt in the square hole.
The front engine pulley will also need to be undone.
You do not have to remove it , just pull it down 1" so the belt will clear the keeper.
Same for the front idler pulley, needs to be loosened so the belt can get between the pulley & frame
Do the front idler first followed by the clutch.
You will then have enough slack to remove the belt from the gearbox pulley after you remove / loosen the belt keeper
Then you work the belt past the steering and finally off the engine pulley.
If you have the electric PTO you will need to unplug it as well.
As the books all say, installation is the reverse.
The 3 idler pulleys are plastic and generally require replacing.
They are not expensive , around $ 10 a piece so replace them while you are in there.
A new belt on old pulleys is almost as bad as a new chain on worn out sprockets.
The belt will not last long and as it is a PIA job better to do it just once.
While the deck is off give it the once over, check bearings, blades & belt and give all the pivoting parts some lube
I charge out 1 hour for a belt replacement with a service and 1.5 hours to do it stand alone repair.
Allow yourself 3 to 4 hours being that you have never done it before.
Being a Deere, all bolts are metric with the exception of the PTO on the mower and if you have an electric PTO you will need a deep socket.
Impact guns are your best friend..
Go to the JD web site http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt ( hope it worked this time ) and print out the steering section and the transmission belt & pulley section
Put something nice in the fridge to reward yourself when the job is finished.
I remove the mowing deck then remove the battery & drain the fuel then stand the mower vertical.
In that position it is easy to work on and obvious how to do it.
The belt runs down either side of the steering shaft so you will need to remove the steering stem or undo both drag links. The latter is easier and ding it at the wheel end is easier still.
You will also need to remove the clutch/brake spring and both pulleys.
The pulleys are held in with coach bolts so it is a lot easier to do than it sounds, just slip your finger behind to keep the square section on the bolt in the square hole.
The front engine pulley will also need to be undone.
You do not have to remove it , just pull it down 1" so the belt will clear the keeper.
Same for the front idler pulley, needs to be loosened so the belt can get between the pulley & frame
Do the front idler first followed by the clutch.
You will then have enough slack to remove the belt from the gearbox pulley after you remove / loosen the belt keeper
Then you work the belt past the steering and finally off the engine pulley.
If you have the electric PTO you will need to unplug it as well.
As the books all say, installation is the reverse.
The 3 idler pulleys are plastic and generally require replacing.
They are not expensive , around $ 10 a piece so replace them while you are in there.
A new belt on old pulleys is almost as bad as a new chain on worn out sprockets.
The belt will not last long and as it is a PIA job better to do it just once.
While the deck is off give it the once over, check bearings, blades & belt and give all the pivoting parts some lube
I charge out 1 hour for a belt replacement with a service and 1.5 hours to do it stand alone repair.
Allow yourself 3 to 4 hours being that you have never done it before.
Being a Deere, all bolts are metric with the exception of the PTO on the mower and if you have an electric PTO you will need a deep socket.
Impact guns are your best friend..
Go to the JD web site http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt ( hope it worked this time ) and print out the steering section and the transmission belt & pulley section
Put something nice in the fridge to reward yourself when the job is finished.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2014
- Threads
- 65
- Messages
- 24,995
I forgot to mention, the two V pulleys are the same and it is a lot cheaper to buy 2 pulleys with no hub and swap the old ones.
They are a light press out and when you replace them support the inner bearing race, the hub is flush on one side.
When I first started I inherited a very large box full of pulleys that I noticed were all the same except the hub but a different hub can trebble or even quadruple the price and they all press out really easy.
So now I buy the pulley from a pulley shop and reuse the old hubs.
They are a light press out and when you replace them support the inner bearing race, the hub is flush on one side.
When I first started I inherited a very large box full of pulleys that I noticed were all the same except the hub but a different hub can trebble or even quadruple the price and they all press out really easy.
So now I buy the pulley from a pulley shop and reuse the old hubs.