My 2005-ish 22hp V twin has a bad sump leak. I figured since I have to take it apart I might as well do the oil seal and valves, so I bought gaskets. I also picked up a couple of head gaskets because I’ve read it’s really common on these engines for leaking head gaskets to pressurize the sump and blow out the gaskets. Grand total for gaskets and seals was $123 to redo an engine with 600+ hours.
I was surfing online and discovered an outfit within driving distance was selling new 20hp Intek with the correct shaft and alternator configuration for $499. So the gaskets are 25% the cost of a replacement engine.
Long story short I decided to pick up a new engine and swap it for the leaky one. That way I can fix the old engine at my leisure and have it as a spare, or to transplant onto a cheap used tractor with a dead engine and then resell it.
Sounds like a good plan
Best way to botch a job is to rush because the house is vanishing into the grass.
And now you know why most techs rarely do full engine rebuilds .
Check the new engine has the same or higher output alternator as your engine.
If not swap them over
Sounds like a good plan
Best way to botch a job is to rush because the house is vanishing into the grass.
And now you know why most techs rarely do full engine rebuilds .
Check the new engine has the same or higher output alternator as your engine.
If not swap them over
I think one of the reasons the new engine was on sale is because it has a 5/3 amp dual circuit alternator. The sales guy quizzed me on my application because of that. My mower has a mechanical blade clutch and only needs the alternator for battery charging and lights. According to him mowers with electronic clutches need six amps minimum, and a lot of mowers have push button engagement these days.
That will be fine for your mower
Most electric clutches pull 3 to 5 amps so engines for them usually have a 10A alternator or larger .
Nice to see a vendor doing the right thing by the customer
Just a follow up: I swapped the engines today and it’s up and running. One thing that threw me for a loop was that my older engine has a separate choke and throttle but the new one has the choke hooked to the throttle. It took me a second to figure that one out. I also seriously pulled my back lifting the new engine into place. I managed to finish the job but I suspect aI won’t be doing much else for the next couple of days.
#6
sgkent
sorry about your back. Good work on the rest of the project.
The leaking sump gasket plauged all the V twin B&S engines and the cost of the upgrade "fix" kit for the sump probably is a good part of your gasket expense. I made my own gasket with equal quality gasket material from O'Reily Auto Parts, bought grade 8 bolts in the bulk from Rural King Farm Supply and upgraded the torque to 200 inch lbs according to the new spec. Used Copper Coat Gasket cement and no problem so far. Less than $5.
Walt Conner
i would suggest you check with coppergasket63 on ebay to get a set of copper head gaskets to replace you conventional ones...stops the blowouts and can be reused once annealed...about 2x the cost of oem gaskets
i know he said it needed a sump gasket but he also said he'll be doing head gaskets as well because of his concern about failures and wanted to let him know about a much better option.
i know he said it needed a sump gasket but he also said he'll be doing head gaskets as well because of his concern about failures and wanted to let him know about a much better option.
