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Have an old MTD rider mower needing new spindles, and last time I replaced one years ago I had a friend use a impact gun to remove the nut. Is that the only way to do this? Planning ahead, so I am prepared.

Thanks, people.

Not the only way but quickest way. Remember Safety First!

mechanic mark said:

Not the only way but quickest way. Remember Safety First!

Click to expand...

Thanks, but can you say what other way? I have time on my hands........

mechanic mark said:

Not the only way but quickest way. Remember Safety First!

Click to expand...

Thanks, but can you say what other way? I have time on my hands........

OOps, sorry for repeat post, I hit save too fast.

If you don't have an impact gun, i usually get a 4x4 or 2x4 block that i can block the blade with against the deck, and use a cheater pipe/breaker bar on the nut.

Then I must have been doing all wrong the last few years as I was just letting my Great Dane chew them off.

Btw if they are the large nuts then they are 24MM (15/16") and the user should be using impact sockets as these nut are tighten between 85 to 95 ft pounds and usually take a lot more to get them loose.

Also if disassembling the spinde take the pulley off first then the blade if using 2X or 4X.

StarTech said:

Then I must have been doing all wrong the last few years as I was just letting my Great Dane chew them off.

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I borrow the neighbors Weenie dog for some of them...........

Thanks, people, for so many good tips!! Wish me luck!

Soaking the threads w/ penetrating oil (Kroil if possible) can sometimes work wonders. Putting a large hammer on one side of the nut and striking the opposite side of the nut with another hammer can sometimes help loosen the nut. Heating the nut slightly w/ a torch sometimes helps. There are hand held impact tools that use a socket and are struck on the top with a hammer; causing a cam inside to twist the nut that can sometimes help. If all else fails, a nut splitter might be the next method to try. It can sometimes take one method, or all, to loosen corroded threads on a shaft/nut. Using an anti-sieze compound upon reassembly can help keep the corrosion under control for the next time it needs to be disassembled.

Just a thought here.. If your needing to remove the blades and do not have an impact gun or breaker bar, would it not be easier to remove the pulley, then the 3 or 4 bolts that hold the spindle to the deck, remove the spindle with the blade still attached through the bottom, then either throw away the old spindle and blade and replace with new OR if you really really wanna save that old dull blade (that costs about 20 bucks to replace) put the blade in a vice and then grind off the nut with a 20$ harbor freight grinder... Or just grind it off while still in the tractor, goto the hardware store and get a brand new nut for 50 cents if the nw spidle didn't come with one? I mean if your replacing the spindle why not replace the entire assembly then it doesn't matter how you destroy the old parts..

mitchstein443 said:

Just a thought here.. If your needing to remove the blades and do not have an impact gun or breaker bar, would it not be easier to remove the pulley, then the 3 or 4 bolts that hold the spindle to the deck, remove the spindle with the blade still attached through the bottom, then either throw away the old spindle and blade and replace with new OR if you really really wanna save that old dull blade (that costs about 20 bucks to replace) put the blade in a vice and then grind off the nut with a 20$ harbor freight grinder... Or just grind it off while still in the tractor, goto the hardware store and get a brand new nut for 50 cents if the nw spidle didn't come with one? I mean if your replacing the spindle why not replace the entire assembly then it doesn't matter how you destroy the old parts..

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For grinding off the blade nut a new 5/8-18 smooth flange nut will be required. Most hardware stores will not have this nut in stock but many mower repair shops should have it.

Also don't remove the spindle housing if you are just rebuilding the spindle as the mounting screws tends to be seized and break off when you try to remove them. Once broken off usually the spindle would need replacing afterwards.

Personally I rebuild most MTD spindles with bearings and seals if needed saving the customer the price of new spindle assemblies.Especially when for an example the MTD 918-04865 spindles are $106.31 ea here vs the two bearing being only $7.43 ea.

two mtd spindles with that part number can be had for 50$ through ebay and under that from amazon..

It has never been wrth while using the factory spindles or rebuilding them.. aftermarket spindles will last just as long if proper maintaince is done to the mower.. never had an issue with hundreds I've replaced..

Also, if the bolts break off.. you simply drill them out and retap the spindle to accept a slightly larger bolt.
When replacing the spindles, use ock washers and NEVERSIEZE.. then they come out next time very easily. I also use stainless steel replacement bolts when I know most ikely I will have to get them out in a couple years..

You can also use loctite on them instead of the lock washer and neversieze, the octight will keep them from coroding in place and make it actually easier to remove later on..

Neversieze is also great for elctrical connections, I learned that from an electrician replacing the main feed from the pole, he used neversieaze (the silver stuff used on car lug nuts) to coat all the wires, it conducts electricity and prevents corrosion. Works great on battery terminals as well, also helps prevent bolts from rusting.

After market Chinese spindles. Not OEM as I brought one from Amazon and wasn't OEM even though they claimed it OEM. I know what MTD OEM costs me from my MTD distributor, one costs more the two list on eBay. I am not posting my costs as civilians (customers) don't need to know that.

As drilling out the screws it is not at simple as these are harden tri-sided screws and the drill bit even in a drill press will want to walk of to one side into the aluminum housing. The only way I have found that get them where near centered is to step drill the screws out which is time consuming.

And apparently that electrician is violating electrical code as he is to be using anti-oxide compound (No Ox is one brand). The grease in the anti seize compound will liquidize and run out leaving the connection to oxidize and to overheat. If he gets caught he could lose his license. Or worst be responsible someone or whole family losing their lives. Aluminum wiring isn't something to play with.