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Removing flywheel on push mower
#1
Parkmower
Parkmower
I'm working on a old toro 2cyl push mower. The flywheel key is sheared and I can't get the wheel off. I tried prying while tapping the nut wit a hammer. Its made of cast aluminum and have already broke two fins. I don't have a thread in puller. Any suggestions?
#2
reynoldston
If you are going to work on your own mower to save money invest in the right tools. You can buy cheaper and workable tools from a place like harbor freight. What little you will be using them they should last you a life time and just think of the money they will save you in the future on other repairs.
reynoldston
I'm working on a old toro 2cyl push mower. The flywheel key is sheared and I can't get the wheel off. I tried prying while tapping the nut wit a hammer. Its made of cast aluminum and have already broke two fins. I don't have a thread in puller. Any suggestions?
If you are going to work on your own mower to save money invest in the right tools. You can buy cheaper and workable tools from a place like harbor freight. What little you will be using them they should last you a life time and just think of the money they will save you in the future on other repairs.
#3
Parkmower
Parkmower
I have a full professional shop with welders compressors large gears pullers large wrenches. Usually work on larger equip . Was asking for suggestions
#4
Parkmower
Parkmower
Have about 7 of these old mowers that are "junked" I'm piecing together a few to run.
#5
reynoldston
Sorry I didn't know this if I gave you bad information. Just trying to help. You said you didn't have a puller that fit?? I have removed a lot of flywheels in my repair shop and some come off harder then others. I have tryed to remove a flywheel by prying on the bottom and hitting on the top of the crank but had no luck at times. There is times you just have to use a puller and unless someone else smarter then me knows of a different way I don't know. I would say see your snap-on man and get the right puller. Also there is times I just have to make one of my pullers work that I have.
reynoldston
I have a full professional shop with welders compressors large gears pullers large wrenches. Was asking for suggestions
Sorry I didn't know this if I gave you bad information. Just trying to help. You said you didn't have a puller that fit?? I have removed a lot of flywheels in my repair shop and some come off harder then others. I have tryed to remove a flywheel by prying on the bottom and hitting on the top of the crank but had no luck at times. There is times you just have to use a puller and unless someone else smarter then me knows of a different way I don't know. I would say see your snap-on man and get the right puller. Also there is times I just have to make one of my pullers work that I have.
#6
S
SeniorCitizen
Two mistakes often made using the pry bar and hammer method is:
1) too much force is applied to the pry bar. The only force needed there is to lift the weight of the flywheel and crank shaft the distance of the thrust bearing clearance. 5 pounds of weight on the end of a wonder bar (nail bar) is plenty.
2) the hammer was too small. Flush the nut with the end of the shaft and give the end of the shaft a good smack (subjective) with a 3 lb. hammer. Second choice of hammers is an 8 lb. sledge hammer dropped from about a foot distance above the shaft end.
Brute force won't usually separate tapers as well as shock force.
S
SeniorCitizen
*****************************************************************I'm working on a old toro 2cyl push mower. The flywheel key is sheared and I can't get the wheel off. I tried prying while tapping the nut wit a hammer. Its made of cast aluminum and have already broke two fins. I don't have a thread in puller. Any suggestions?
Two mistakes often made using the pry bar and hammer method is:
1) too much force is applied to the pry bar. The only force needed there is to lift the weight of the flywheel and crank shaft the distance of the thrust bearing clearance. 5 pounds of weight on the end of a wonder bar (nail bar) is plenty.
2) the hammer was too small. Flush the nut with the end of the shaft and give the end of the shaft a good smack (subjective) with a 3 lb. hammer. Second choice of hammers is an 8 lb. sledge hammer dropped from about a foot distance above the shaft end.
Brute force won't usually separate tapers as well as shock force.
#7
Parkmower
Parkmower
Ok I tried using a mini sledge.
#8
Two-Stroke
This is what I'd try -- :laughing: in my unprofessional (hobbyist) opinion. :laughing:
Sometimes a few other things help with the above technique: (a) spray some Liquid Wrench (or other penetrating oil) onto the taper; (b) hold the engine (best to remove engine from deck) with your left hand and smack with your right; and (c) never apply a lot of force to the flywheel via a pry bar, etc -- there's a risk of doing damage.
Bear in mind that it's best to get the correct puller. :thumbsup:
Good luck those old Toro two-strokes. It sounds like a fun winter project. If you feel the urge you could probably sell the extra parts on eBay. As you probably know, the parts for those engines are pretty expensive new.
Two-Stroke
*****************************************************************
Flush the nut with the end of the shaft and give the end of the shaft a good smack (subjective) with a 3 lb. hammer.
Brute force won't usually separate tapers as well as shock force.
This is what I'd try -- :laughing: in my unprofessional (hobbyist) opinion. :laughing:
Sometimes a few other things help with the above technique: (a) spray some Liquid Wrench (or other penetrating oil) onto the taper; (b) hold the engine (best to remove engine from deck) with your left hand and smack with your right; and (c) never apply a lot of force to the flywheel via a pry bar, etc -- there's a risk of doing damage.
Bear in mind that it's best to get the correct puller. :thumbsup:
Good luck those old Toro two-strokes. It sounds like a fun winter project. If you feel the urge you could probably sell the extra parts on eBay. As you probably know, the parts for those engines are pretty expensive new.
#9
Parkmower
Parkmower
I gonna try make a puller. Shouldn't be too hard. Have everything to do it. This is one of the better mowers. I have it ready to go except for this key. Pretty sure someone hit something hard wit the blade and sheared the key. It seems like a common symptom on these I've been workin on. After I'm done I prob will part them out.
Two stroke I know you want a side discharge deck. I strip one down and see how much to ship.
Two stroke I know you want a side discharge deck. I strip one down and see how much to ship.
#10
RobertBrown
here's my :2cents:
You have already boogered up the fly wheel....right?
Since it's toast. and you have another. it's expendable...unless I missed something.
If you grab the fly wheel like 2 stroke says and tap....not pound...just tap lightly and repeatedly on the top of the crank and let gravity dislodge this unholy marriage...it will come apart, eventually. Use some PB blaster or what ever you like and it has no choice but to separate. If it won't come loose then it's probably damaged the crank beyond repair anyway...... right?
RobertBrown
I gonna try make a puller. Shouldn't be too hard. Have everything to do it. This is one of the better mowers. I have it ready to go except for this key. Pretty sure someone hit something hard wit the blade and sheared the key. It seems like a common symptom on these I've been workin on. After I'm done I prob will part them out.
Two stroke I know you want a side discharge deck. I strip one down and see how much to ship.
here's my :2cents:
You have already boogered up the fly wheel....right?
Since it's toast. and you have another. it's expendable...unless I missed something.
If you grab the fly wheel like 2 stroke says and tap....not pound...just tap lightly and repeatedly on the top of the crank and let gravity dislodge this unholy marriage...it will come apart, eventually. Use some PB blaster or what ever you like and it has no choice but to separate. If it won't come loose then it's probably damaged the crank beyond repair anyway...... right?
#11
reynoldston
reynoldston
Just why is everyone against using a puller to remove a flywheel? I have removed many flywheels and never damaged one yet using a puller. Just what am I doing wrong? I have seen more damage to the top of the crankshaft from someone hitting it with a hammer then any puller has made. Is a puller too much work or too slow? Just what damage is the puller doing? In a earler post somesaid a 8 lb hammer. Is that better?? Am I wrong in saying a 2 cycle uses roller bearings on its crankshaft and just what does all the hammering doing to them bearings? Or am I wrong in saying it is bad to hammer on a roller bearing. You are sure not working on anything of mine.
#12
D
Duffer72
D
Duffer72
Yes pullers are slower and in a shop time is $, have Never used one to pull a flywhel and have never had any problems getting them off or damaging a flywheel in over 30 years in the shop, considering the beating those bearings get based on the use of these type engines again never had a problem and used the same procedure on 2 cycles also, again with no problrem.
#13
reynoldston
You may not like what I have to say here but, Sound like some good old flat rate work to me. Been there and done that for over 25 years I worked flay rate. Shop time is dollars. Now that I am retired in my 70's and its my shop its my way or not at all and if the customer doesn't like it take it else where. I take all the time I want to remove anything and might even go take a nap. Of course I don't do it to make big dollars. If you been in it for 30 years you sure know what I mean by flat rate. You get your time out of a book how long to fix something and then see how fast you can beat that time. The customer looses and you make big $$. Yes I do take off some flywheels off with the pry bar and hammer, if they come right off easy.
reynoldston
Yes pullers are slower and in a shop time is $, have Never used one to pull a flywhel and have never had any problems getting them off or damaging a flywheel in over 30 years in the shop, considering the beating those bearings get based on the use of these type engines again never had a problem and used the same procedure on 2 cycles also, again with no problrem.
You may not like what I have to say here but, Sound like some good old flat rate work to me. Been there and done that for over 25 years I worked flay rate. Shop time is dollars. Now that I am retired in my 70's and its my shop its my way or not at all and if the customer doesn't like it take it else where. I take all the time I want to remove anything and might even go take a nap. Of course I don't do it to make big dollars. If you been in it for 30 years you sure know what I mean by flat rate. You get your time out of a book how long to fix something and then see how fast you can beat that time. The customer looses and you make big $$. Yes I do take off some flywheels off with the pry bar and hammer, if they come right off easy.
#14
D
Duffer72
D
Duffer72
Nope never used flat rate books, but I did have set charges for most repairs in most cases, I also go a little slower and pick and chose want I work on now, since it isn't my real income or paying someone elses along with uncle sam. Havent worked up to taking a nap in the middle of a job:thumbsup: yet
#15
reynoldston
Now it sounds more like my type of work. I buy all my parts retail to keep Uncle Sam out of my business. My repair business is more a hobby then a business. I try to keep it down to lawn equipment, motorcycles, and ATV's. Every once in a while someone will talk into fixing a car or pickup truck which I don't care for anymore. My first rule to the customer is don't rush me. The nap comes in time with age.
reynoldston
Nope never used flat rate books, but I did have set charges for most repairs in most cases, I also go a little slower and pick and chose want I work on now, since it isn't my real income or paying someone elses along with uncle sam. Havent worked up to taking a nap in the middle of a job:thumbsup: yet
Now it sounds more like my type of work. I buy all my parts retail to keep Uncle Sam out of my business. My repair business is more a hobby then a business. I try to keep it down to lawn equipment, motorcycles, and ATV's. Every once in a while someone will talk into fixing a car or pickup truck which I don't care for anymore. My first rule to the customer is don't rush me. The nap comes in time with age.
#16
D
Duffer72
D
Duffer72
Nope no cars here, have enough to do with 3 daughters cars and the wife's. I buy my parts from a guy I worked for part time when I was laid off for a year, he gives them to me for cost +10% .
I'm mainly mowers and riders, try to stay away from 2 cycle if all possible, not a big fan and always made sure I had a good 2 cycle guy on the payroll for them. 1 guy was with me for over 12 years and I think he still works for the new owner, I know he still did 5 yrs ago if they are still in business.
I mainly use the cash for golf expenses and schedule my work around my golf days. So I only work tues and thurs and sat mornings.
I'm mainly mowers and riders, try to stay away from 2 cycle if all possible, not a big fan and always made sure I had a good 2 cycle guy on the payroll for them. 1 guy was with me for over 12 years and I think he still works for the new owner, I know he still did 5 yrs ago if they are still in business.
I mainly use the cash for golf expenses and schedule my work around my golf days. So I only work tues and thurs and sat mornings.
#17
reynoldston
Sure sounds like you enjoy retirement as much as I do. My expenses is for my motorcycle.
reynoldston
Nope no cars here, have enough to do with 3 daughters cars and the wife's. I buy my parts from a guy I worked for part time when I was laid off for a year, he gives them to me for cost +10% .
I'm mainly mowers and riders, try to stay away from 2 cycle if all possible, not a big fan and always made sure I had a good 2 cycle guy on the payroll for them. 1 guy was with me for over 12 years and I think he still works for the new owner, I know he still did 5 yrs ago if they are still in business.
I mainly use the cash for golf expenses and schedule my work around my golf days. So I only work tues and thurs and sat mornings.
Sure sounds like you enjoy retirement as much as I do. My expenses is for my motorcycle.
#18
G
gary lee
G
gary lee
If all fails use a slap or chain wrench to reline the crankshaft and flywheel slot. You are going to have use something to hold blade from moving.
#20
S
SeniorCitizen
I'm sorry you don't understand thrust clearance. If you did you could readily see the precious roller bearings aren't being beaten on with a hammer. When the flywheel and shaft separate the only thing the bearings see is the weight of the shaft as the thrust of the shaft goes in the opposite direction.
I'll work on my own.
S
SeniorCitizen
***********************************************************************In a earler post somesaid a 8 lb hammer. Is that better?? Am I wrong in saying a 2 cycle uses roller bearings on its crankshaft and just what does all the hammering doing to them bearings? Or am I wrong in saying it is bad to hammer on a roller bearing. You are sure not working on anything of mine.
I'm sorry you don't understand thrust clearance. If you did you could readily see the precious roller bearings aren't being beaten on with a hammer. When the flywheel and shaft separate the only thing the bearings see is the weight of the shaft as the thrust of the shaft goes in the opposite direction.
I'll work on my own.
#21
reynoldston
I understand a lot, been doing this work for the most part for the last 60 years. Yes I know how to install a crankshaft and set up the clearance. I could care less what anyone does with their equipment. The thing I would just like to know what is the sin of using a puller to remove a flywheel. everyone just seem dead set against it. Does it do damage where a hammer doesn't? For some reason I have seen the end of a crankshaft all beat up and you are telling me that is caused from a puller not a hammer. I don't think so. Also why would you think it is OK to pound on a roller bearing or thrust bearing. I am going to say go for it by all means because it means nothing to me. Not going to take place in my shop.
reynoldston
***********************************************************************
I'm sorry you don't understand thrust clearance. If you did you could readily see the precious roller bearings aren't being beaten on with a hammer. When the flywheel and shaft separate the only thing the bearings see is the weight of the shaft as the thrust of the shaft goes in the opposite direction.
I'll work on my own.
I understand a lot, been doing this work for the most part for the last 60 years. Yes I know how to install a crankshaft and set up the clearance. I could care less what anyone does with their equipment. The thing I would just like to know what is the sin of using a puller to remove a flywheel. everyone just seem dead set against it. Does it do damage where a hammer doesn't? For some reason I have seen the end of a crankshaft all beat up and you are telling me that is caused from a puller not a hammer. I don't think so. Also why would you think it is OK to pound on a roller bearing or thrust bearing. I am going to say go for it by all means because it means nothing to me. Not going to take place in my shop.
#22
Parkmower
Parkmower
Got it wit mini sledge and pry bar. Light pressure on bar and a few whacks harder than before and it's off. Thanks guys