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Problem started a couple days ago on my 15 yr old Dixie XW2002, with the 20hp Kohler engine. Had been started an hour earlier with no problem, but after loading the cart I was pulling, all I got was a 'click' when I hit the switch. Not a chattering as I'd expect with a low battery or dirty terminals, but just a single click. Subsequent attempts didn't yield any sound at all. Had the battery checked; it's o.k. Next suspect was the starter, which I removed and had tested; the Bendix spun just fine when hooked to a test battery,but failed to operate when wired back up (w/o remounting on engine) to my machine, with the key on. I'm not anything close to being a competent mechanic, but my next inclination is to replace the switch and wiring harness from the switch to the starter. I've already removed the switch and cleaned the terminals with no postive results. Even then I'll still have the starter to re-install. Since it was bench tested, the bendix teeth aren't lined up with the teeth on the flywheel, so I'm assuming I have to remove the top cover of the engine, which I've never attempted, so I can see what's going on.

Does all the above sound like I'm headed down the right road? I just dropped $2400 in repairs on this machine late last season at the local Dixie dealer (after they'd told me the bill would be about $1600), so I'm disinclined to put the old girl in the shop again if I can avoid it, especially this time of year. Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Hello and WELCOME to these Forums....
Never attempt to 'repair' a problem by replacing parts... It can get very expensive Plus you can remove something that is working perfect and replace it with a 'New' but non working replacement. (Occasionally new parts are bad).
You need to check the Voltage at the starter solenoid and work back to the battery.
The small wire on the starter solenoid should get 12 volts when the key switch is turned to 'start'... What is yours measuring?
Also check the PTO switch, it Must be in the 'Off' position to get the starter to engage, (Hold the key switch to the start position, WHILE pushing the pto switch On & Off...
Drive control sticks normally need to be in the neutral (start position) before the engine will turn over also...
'Some' models may have an operator present switch in the seat (someone needs to be in the seat)..
Step through all those safety interlocks While holding the Key switch to the start position... That should give you an indication as to where your problem is, But don't just start replacing things....
Post back with the results... :smile:KennyV

I have run across this "many" times, even with cars and trucks. Nine times out of ten, if you hit the starter with a hammer, it will work. I know,, it sounds crude but will get you down the road.
What often times happens is one or two segments on the armature goes bad and when the starter motor coasts to a stop, just by bad luck, it will stop where the brushes contact a bad segment and the click you hear is the solenoid. A sharp hit with a hammer usually jars it enough to the next good segment. The odds are slim that the starter will coast to a stop in the exact same spot, but it does happen. I had to do this two times in the last year to my 87 Toy PU truck

chance123 said:

I have run across this "many" times, even with cars and trucks. Nine times out of ten, if you hit the starter with a hammer, it will work. I know,, it sounds crude but will get you down the road.
What often times happens is one or two segments on the armature goes bad and when the starter motor coasts to a stop, just by bad luck, it will stop where the brushes contact a bad segment and the click you hear is the solenoid. A sharp hit with a hammer usually jars it enough to the next good segment. The odds are slim that the starter will coast to a stop in the exact same spot, but it does happen. I had to do this two times in the last year to my 87 Toy PU truck

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DON'T strike a small engine starter with a hammer, You could get by doing that on a wire wound field starter... BUT starters with Permanent Magnets glued to the inside of the shell will be destroyed...
If your starter has a bad spot on the commutator, remove it and repair that spot, almost Never happens on magnet mounted starters...
BTW most car & truck starters now use Permanent Magnet starters.. You are taking a huge risk of cracking those brittle magnets by hitting those starters... :smile:KennyV

KennyV said:

DON'T strike a small engine starter with a hammer, You could get by doing that on a wire wound field starter... BUT starters with Permanent Magnets glued to the inside of the shell will be destroyed...
If your starter has a bad spot on the commutator, remove it and repair that spot, almost Never happens on magnet mounted starters...
BTW most car & truck starters now use Permanent Magnet starters.. You are taking a huge risk of cracking those brittle magnets by hitting those starters... :smile:KennyV

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Perhaps I should have said "tap" the starter.

Please leave the hammer in the toolbox. It just takes a tap to break the magnets loose from the housing.

ILENGINE said:

Please leave the hammer in the toolbox. It just takes a tap to break the magnets loose from the housing.

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LOL Perhaps you're right. I forgot that a lot of things are now made in China. Never "ever" broke a magnet loose from the housing. "That" would take a hard smack to do that. A "tap" is no more shocking to the starter than riding the machine on a bumpy terrain.
I would prefer to just try a tap than to walk 2 or 3 acres in 100 degree heat to get the truck and trailer and push it on.