Export thread

I know this may be to some extent a matter of opinion but rating and explaining the major differences in quality in the different product lines would be a very useful guide IMHO
For instance the GT series appears to have a heavier deck than other lines made at the same time
and the LX series has watercooled engines in some models

Hitechluddite said:

I know this may be to some extent a matter of opinion but rating and explaining the major differences in quality in the different product lines would be a very useful guide IMHO
For instance the GT series appears to have a heavier deck than other lines made at the same time
and the LX series has watercooled engines in some models

Click to expand...

This is a good idea and a good thought, but, having worked at a Deere dealership since 1998, I can tell you, this is a subject better for a book. Everyone has their opinions and thoughts. And then you add those who only know what Google tells them, and then this conversation will turn into a mess in which the actual facts will get lost in the confusion. I would suggest asking questions about a specific series here as it would get out of control in a hurry! Just my $0.02!

Will that book Sounds like a good retirement project for you!

How bout we try to stick to a few rules?

John Deere's target audience when they released them.

MSRP Higher$=Higher Quality. This may not always be the case but it's a good rule...

I'm looking for a 48-54" deck model that has an engine that will provide long life as I have around sunny 4 acres that I have to my in a location that downtime is a real killer. I can easily find 6 different JD lines that fit the bill Manf between mid 80's and late 90's that fall in my price range, which is at the ragged bloody edge of a reasonable amt for such a mower $500-700 I'm hoping for a little help sorting things out :-D

I have a GT275 which now serves as a spare. It's about 20 years old, still looks great, and is still in top notch shape mechanically except for broken hood hinges. It has a very stout 48" deck, and is powered by the legendary Kawasaki FC540V. No knocks or rattles, and does not use or leak oil. I bought it back in 2007 at a bargain. I paid $970 for it then, and have used it for 11 seasons. I suspect that with proper maintenance, it could run another 20 years without any major repairs. With Deere's outstanding parts system, you should be able to get parts for a GT275 for many years. Check 'em out on Machinery Pete. Good luck.

Hitechluddite said:

Will that book Sounds like a good retirement project for you!

How bout we try to stick to a few rules?

John Deere's target audience when they released them.

MSRP Higher$=Higher Quality. This may not always be the case but it's a good rule...

I'm looking for a 48-54" deck model that has an engine that will provide long life as I have around sunny 4 acres that I have to my in a location that downtime is a real killer. I can easily find 6 different JD lines that fit the bill Manf between mid 80's and late 90's that fall in my price range, which is at the ragged bloody edge of a reasonable amt for such a mower $500-700 I'm hoping for a little help sorting things out :-D

Click to expand...

You used to be able to use Tractordata.com to do this.
It is still there and lists the mowers with their attachments and has the Higher model - lower model feature but they have taken the "price when new" off the site.
This was handy because you then could work out if it was a low end residential or high end commercial.

Vigilant said:

I have a GT275 which now serves as a spare. It's about 20 years old, still looks great, and is still in top notch shape mechanically except for broken hood hinges. It has a very stout 48" deck, and is powered by the legendary Kawasaki FC540V. No knocks or rattles, and does not use or leak oil. I bought it back in 2007 at a bargain. I paid $970 for it then, and have used it for 11 seasons. I suspect that with proper maintenance, it could run another 20 years without any major repairs. With Deere's outstanding parts system, you should be able to get parts for a GT275 for many years. Check 'em out on Machinery Pete. Good luck.

Click to expand...

The GT275 was an excellent machine, and there are still many out there running in fine shape. I'm not knocking your machine, but I would like to pass on some information on this series for the original poster.
The early GT series with the black frame was basically an LX series frame with a heavier duty rear, which was it's achilles heel if you had a snowblower or snow blade.
The frame was known to crack and break in front of the rear wheels from the flexing caused by a snowblower or blade.
It seems the transmission was too strong, and the frame would fatigue and crack from the twisting caused by the weight of the front implement and constant changing of direction from forward to reverse while using a blower or blade.
We welded quite a few here at the shop for this very reason.
When looking to buy one of these, check for cracks on the frame. Also check and see if the frame had weld repair done to it.

The later GT series with the green frame could do this as well.

*My suggestion would be to look for a 325 (twin cylinder version, not the older single cylinder version), 335, or the water cooled 345 due to the size of lawn you are looking to mow.

Vigilant, I'm not knocking your machine! I'm only passing this info on for the original poster so he knows to look for that when viewing a used machine.
Hope this info helps, good luck!

Will1988 said:

The GT275 was an excellent machine, and there are still many out there running in fine shape. I'm not knocking your machine, but I would like to pass on some information on this series for the original poster.
The early GT series with the black frame was basically an LX series frame with a heavier duty rear, which was it's achilles heel if you had a snowblower or snow blade.
The frame was known to crack and break in front of the rear wheels from the flexing caused by a snowblower or blade.
It seems the transmission was too strong, and the frame would fatigue and crack from the twisting caused by the weight of the front implement and constant changing of direction from forward to reverse while using a blower or blade.
We welded quite a few here at the shop for this very reason.
When looking to buy one of these, check for cracks on the frame. Also check and see if the frame had weld repair done to it.

The later GT series with the green frame could do this as well.

*My suggestion would be to look for a 325 (twin cylinder version, not the older single cylinder version), 335, or the water cooled 345 due to the size of lawn you are looking to mow.

Vigilant, I'm not knocking your machine! I'm only passing this info on for the original poster so he knows to look for that when viewing a used machine.
Hope this info helps, good luck!

View attachment 45335

Click to expand...

10-4. Good info. Thanks.

Will1988 said:

The GT275 was an excellent machine, and there are still many out there running in fine shape. I'm not knocking your machine, but I would like to pass on some information on this series for the original poster.
The early GT series with the black frame was basically an LX series frame with a heavier duty rear, which was it's achilles heel if you had a snowblower or snow blade.
The frame was known to crack and break in front of the rear wheels from the flexing caused by a snowblower or blade.
It seems the transmission was too strong, and the frame would fatigue and crack from the twisting caused by the weight of the front implement and constant changing of direction from forward to reverse while using a blower or blade.
We welded quite a few here at the shop for this very reason.
When looking to buy one of these, check for cracks on the frame. Also check and see if the frame had weld repair done to it.

The later GT series with the green frame could do this as well.

*My suggestion would be to look for a 325 (twin cylinder version, not the older single cylinder version), 335, or the water cooled 345 due to the size of lawn you are looking to mow.

Vigilant, I'm not knocking your machine! I'm only passing this info on for the original poster so he knows to look for that when viewing a used machine.
Hope this info helps, good luck!

View attachment 45335

Click to expand...

You like the 325 better than the X500?

Vigilant said:

You like the 325 better than the X500?

Click to expand...

Side by side in great condition, I would pick the 325 over the X500 in a heartbeat, both from a reliability standpoint and also from a technician (DIY) standpoint.
The 325 is also more comfortable to ride on and has a lower center of gravity.
The X series seats are uncomfortable and make you sit higher. (I have a bad lower back)
The mower deck can be removed quicker from a 325 also.
Overall, the 325 is a better built machine when directly compared to the X500.
Don't read me wrong, the X series are great tractors, but this is just my preference.

Thanks for the info on the GT275. The one i looked at had an oil leak ( Maybe at the valve cover gasket and the charge light was lit. ( he said it went away after it ran awhile and I didn't have my Fluke with me to test.

Tonight I'm looking at a LT180 with 300hrs on it.

I have seen a couple ads for a LX188 that said they were watercooled. It looks to be a very small tractor for water cooling but that would be a great benefit.

I've msged with a local guy here that swears by the 430 but that's too rich for me at this time... I'll see if I can find a 325 anywhere near...

I don't know if any of the John Deere tractor you are looking for has the Kawasaki FD590, that Kawasaki engine is notorious for breaking the plastic Cam shaft around 900 hrs. I believe. Just my :2cents:

So far all the Kaw's I'm looking at are FC420's 540's ond the 501 watercooled

Hitechluddite said:

So far all the Kaw's I'm looking at are FC420's 540's ond the 501 watercooled

Click to expand...

I had an FC420 in an older Deere, and loved it. In tall grass, it didn't usually even bog down. It would sound like it got pissed off, grunt, and tear on through it. Have an FC540V in a GT275 now. No hour meter. I've probably put about 600 hours on it since I bought it, and it was pristine. Appeared to have very low hours and was garage kept. It's been a great engine. Still no leaks, does not burn oil, and it tears right through everything I have mowed with it.

Will1988 said:

Side by side in great condition, I would pick the 325 over the X500 in a heartbeat, both from a reliability standpoint and also from a technician (DIY) standpoint.
The 325 is also more comfortable to ride on and has a lower center of gravity.
The X series seats are uncomfortable and make you sit higher. (I have a bad lower back)
The mower deck can be removed quicker from a 325 also.
Overall, the 325 is a better built machine when directly compared to the X500.
Don't read me wrong, the X series are great tractors, but this is just my preference.

Click to expand...

I haven't seen any complaints about X500 reliability. You probably know something I don't, but the X500 is looking good to me. I didn't know the 325 has a lower center of gravity. That may matter to some folks, but not me. I pretty much stay off the slopes. The traction assist on the X500 was a strong selling point for me, plus it has 1/3 more horsepower which I may not need, but I sure like it.

Vigilant said:

I haven't seen any complaints about X500 reliability. You probably know something I don't, but the X500 is looking good to me. I didn't know the 325 has a lower center of gravity. That may matter to some folks, but not me. I pretty much stay off the slopes. The traction assist on the X500 was a strong selling point for me, plus it has 1/3 more horsepower which I may not need, but I sure like it.

Click to expand...

The X500 is a good machine. I just prefer the one that is the easiest to replace parts on and easiest to get the deck off because I like to work on my own stuff.
For instance, the transmission drive belt is easier to replace on the 325.
The deck belts are routed better and tend to last longer.
The PTO clutch on a 325 will usually last longer than the X500.
I have replaced lots of steering gears on the X500's, but on the 325 only a balljoint once in a while, which is alot easier to replace.
It all comes down to a matter of preference.
The 325 is an older machine compared to the X500.
Just passing on some info that I have learned over the years working on both of these machine here at the shop.
In the end, buy what suits your needs the best.
Hope this helps!

This seems more like a thread asking what used tractor to buy.

Hitechluddite said:

... I'm looking for a 48-54" deck model that has an engine that will provide long life as I have around sunny 4 acres that I have to my in a location that downtime is a real killer. I can easily find 6 different JD lines that fit the bill Manf between mid 80's and late 90's that fall in my price range, which is at the ragged bloody edge of a reasonable amt for such a mower $500-700 I'm hoping for a little help sorting things out :-D

Click to expand...

Within that price range I bought 3 tractors a few summers ago. The first was an LX176. I don't think the LX series is too small for 4 acres at all, even though it's less machine than the GT275 mentioned. Like that 14HP Kawasaki engine and hydrostatic trans with foot control. But I hated the steering. Hard to turn the wheel. Maybe mine was worn out or needed lube or some other fix, but ... I quickly bought a 265 (and then a second 265 later that summer).

The second and third tractors were bought because the previous purchase died shortly after I'd purchased it, and I panicked not wanting down time. Tractors this old get sold because the owner was tired of dealing with them. Something atrophies and dies soon after your successful test drive at their house. Ask me how I know.

The "Late 200" series is just on another level. It's a generation earlier, so there's a shift/direction lever instead of modern foot controls, but you get a recirculating ball steering box. I kid you not, you'd never want the power steering pricier models have. You lose the modern trans bypass rod that stays engaged by pulling it out (making pushing possible by one person) and the lever mechanism that disengages the trans for pushing could fail. You'll need a truck and a chain to retrieve the tractor. Unlike the LX series, you gain fuel level, oil level light, hour meter standard. At least on the 265.

So the GT series should alleviate those worries, being next gen, but I'd remain on the lookout for a low-hour 265, 285. There was even an EFI version of the 285, and the 320 had hydraulic lift for the mower deck. The 260 with manual trans is also good. The 240 loses some features.

These 200 models have the 17hp 1 cyl Kawasaki. Nice engine. Noisier than a 2-cyl, but so what? If you don't make a big cut in your lawn the tractor will cut decently even at 50-75% throttle with sharp blades. Any of these can "bush hog" grasses taller than the tractor. Grasses, not actual brush of course.

************************

Consider mower decks independently of the tractor, to the extent they are compatible. You could be better off buying a cheap machine with a better deck in addition to a better tractor saddled with a lesser deck. And then sell the other machine or keep as a spare, for downtime repairs and maintenance. For the tractors I mentioned, the 240 came with I think a 38" and the rest came with 46", 48", 50" decks.

The 46" (weirdly, it'll be unmarked as to size) and the 50" are the same basic design. Good spindles with bearings that date back to the vaunted 317/318 ... but the small pulleys are down close to the deck. Expect those bolts/nuts to have to be cut off when replacing bearings. The "pulley valley" up top is a water and rust magnet.

The 48" deck is the star. Released later. Large pulleys up high, with slots that act as cooling fans. The spindle shafts have a grease fitting. Next to zero grass/mud/water catches on top near pulleys, the deck itself is more robust but does catch mud below, so rust through happens but critically, not near the spindles. I have both 46 and 48 and there's a big difference between the two designs, and the 46 isn't "junk."

240,260,265,285,320,160,165,170,175,180,185 can all take the same decks with appropriate draft arms/lift linkage. Notice that the 160,165,170,175,180,185 are all smaller tractors and could be found more cheaply in order get the 48" deck. (But verify it's as I've described. You know, Internet knowledge is only worth so much.)

Even though the LX series overlaps some years, they are next-gen along with the GT and the decks aren't compatible. Someone else will have to give an opinion about those decks.

Lots of good info there dekeda,

I'm staying away from the pre late 80's models. I have had two Kohler K series motors go to that great yard in the sky this year. They both ran perfectly with no loss of oil and a good looking plug right up the second they died, one locked up and one threw a rod. I think it's asking a little much of a 35yr old air cooled engine no mattter how well constructed.

I don't think I'd want to put a 48" deck on my 175 The 38" with a mulching plate in the heavy/thick grass is enough for 14HP.

I looked at a LT180 last night. Lighter duty deck and frame than the 275 but it looks to be a good mower....

Hitechluddite said:

Lots of good info there dekeda,

I'm staying away from the pre late 80's models. I have had two Kohler K series motors go to that great yard in the sky this year. They both ran perfectly with no loss of oil and a good looking plug right up the second they died, one locked up and one threw a rod. I think it's asking a little much of a 35yr old air cooled engine no mattter how well constructed.

I don't think I'd want to put a 48" deck on my 175 The 38" with a mulching plate in the heavy/thick grass is enough for 14HP.

I looked at a LT180 last night. Lighter duty deck and frame than the 275 but it looks to be a good mower....

Click to expand...

The LT is probably equivalent to your earlier 100-series, two generations apart. (With LX generation being in-between.)

The 200-series I jabbered about is late '80s-mid '90s. Most of what's left will be '90s with 700-1300 hours. The air cooled Kaws are just fine. Better reputation than the Kohlers then or now. Like anything else, you won't know how they were treated, of course. I wasn't suggesting you buy a deck for your 175 but you certainly could, and that tractor could be had that way from Deere originally.

Is that the problem, your existing deck is bad?

I have 2 properties 200 miles apart and would rather not shuttle the 175 back and forth plus the 38" deck is a little small for 4 acres The LT is being sold by the original owner and is a 2004 model. He mowed about 1.5 acres of flat land changed the oil every spring and has no attachments except the deck. Asking Price is $600 If I can get 5 years of good service without a major problem I'll be very happy with it.

Hitechluddite said:

I have 2 properties 200 miles apart and would rather not shuttle the 175 back and forth plus the 38" deck is a little small for 4 acres The LT is being sold by the original owner and is a 2004 model. He mowed about 1.5 acres of flat land changed the oil every spring and has no attachments except the deck. Asking Price is $600 If I can get 5 years of good service without a major problem I'll be very happy with it.

Click to expand...

My GT275 was about 10 years old when I bought it. I ran the piss out of it for 12 years, and it's none the worse for wear other than the hood finally breaking at each hinge. The hood still goes off and on, just takes a little finesse. Sooner or later, I'll find a good used hood. I certainly won't shell out a thousand for a new one. I'm planning on keeping it indefinitely as a spare. Plenty of room in the garage, and I just like lookin at it. Besides, I doubt that I'll ever be able to kill it.

Will1988 said:

The X500 is a good machine. I just prefer the one that is the easiest to replace parts on and easiest to get the deck off because I like to work on my own stuff.
For instance, the transmission drive belt is easier to replace on the 325.
The deck belts are routed better and tend to last longer.
The PTO clutch on a 325 will usually last longer than the X500.
I have replaced lots of steering gears on the X500's, but on the 325 only a balljoint once in a while, which is alot easier to replace.
It all comes down to a matter of preference.
The 325 is an older machine compared to the X500.
Just passing on some info that I have learned over the years working on both of these machine here at the shop.
In the end, buy what suits your needs the best.
Hope this helps!

Click to expand...

I really appreciate that. Thanks. What do you think about the 345? Whatever I buy, I'm hoping to get 25 years or so out of it with top notch maintenance and relatively easy use.