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Just took delivery of my new Raptor SD54. Been driving around a while learning the touch of ZTR. So far so good.

Did a lot of shopping around and comparing, this mower seemed the most bang for the buck. Looked at Husky, was $500 more for about the same spec machine. Looked at Deere, not impressed. Looked at Toro also, as well as Bad Boy. Have a Hustler dealer within 4 miles as with the others. It is a stout piece of machinery. I have about an acre to cut with some slopes and some rough ground.

Want to thank the posters here for helping with my pick. All posts can be helpful, good and bad.

From the Swamp, Lenny

After running around for about an hour yesterday, I started looking the mower over closely this morning. The transmission tank was empty, needed some topping, not a great deal.

Noticing the mower always veers to left, no matter the throttle setting with levers full forward. Very hard to keep a straight line cutting. I checked the tire pressure and found all at about 16/17lbs. Let all down to 10lbs. as per manual, still same veer to left. Made some adjustments on the right lever stop under the seat, and then aligned the levers to be together at full forward. All good now.

Not terrible, but these are things the dealer should have taken care of prior to delivery.

The dealer should have caught the tracking and tires. I set all men to 10 psi. The hypo tank though, I can give I'm some slack. I've found that they come filled right from the factory, but after some use they get low. No leaks. I think that the filter elements saturate ans suck up more oil once it is moving through them under pressure. Just keep it opped up, not a big deal.

Congrats on your machine, it's a great rig.

L454S said:

After running around for about an hour yesterday, I started looking the mower over closely this morning. The transmission tank was empty, needed some topping, not a great deal.

Noticing the mower always veers to left, no matter the throttle setting with levers full forward. Very hard to keep a straight line cutting. I checked the tire pressure and found all at about 16/17lbs. Let all down to 10lbs. as per manual, still same veer to left. Made some adjustments on the right lever stop under the seat, and then aligned the levers to be together at full forward. All good now.

Not terrible, but these are things the dealer should have taken care of prior to delivery.

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I've noticed the same with mine, on both counts.

I'm particularly concerned about the empty hydro expansion tank. Hoping I haven't run it with excessively low fluid and damaged/prematurely worn something in the process...

Mooch, sent you a PM about adjustments.

Only took about 4 oz. to bring the tranny tank to the full cold line. Not a big deal.

L454S said:

Mooch, sent you a PM about adjustments.

Only took about 4 oz. to bring the tranny tank to the full cold line. Not a big deal.

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Thanks Lenny, I will take a look. I want to drive it some on level ground; I may have been feeling the effects of having a somewhat hilly property, but I will confirm tonight. I'm also going to stop for some 20W50 for the expansion tank.

These are the adjustment bolts that are mentioned earlier. It's just a stop block that moves up and down in a slot, the side facing bolt is a lock bolt and the top facing one is the adjuster. The last pic is also the last adjustment made, aligning the bars.

Broke over 6 hours on the machine and decided to do the initial oil and filter change. Used a Purolator L14476 filter and Chevron Delo 5W40 Syn. I usually use Shell Rotella 15W40 for all outdoor power equipment, going to give this HD Syn. 5W40 a try.

Yes, 3 gorilla's tightened the OE oil filter on. I got it off using a gorilla sized pair of channel locks. The oil drain is in an unfriendly place, and requires a 10MM wrench to loosen the outer cap. It works like the old style petcock on a radiator. Don't use a lot of force, it is plastic and don't remove the plug all the way. The supplied hose works(slowly), but be aware of where you stick it out below(don't fill up the black cross brace with oil).

It took just over 2 quarts of oil to be at the full line after run it to fill the filter and recheck.

So far I am satisfied with the machine, it has done all I asked of it.

Pure One filter Part No. PL2019 and a Motorcraft Fl-400s also work.

I was advised to use SAE 30 period by dealer.In terms of oil filter I'm going with Kawasaki brand even though expensive.I'm sure there are many differing opinions about this topic.I finally got the expansion tank at the right level,added about 6 ounces:thumbsup:.

chemingthroughtheleather said:

I was advised to use SAE 30 period by dealer.In terms of oil filter I'm going with Kawasaki brand even though expensive.I'm sure there are many differing opinions about this topic.I finally got the expansion tank at the right level,added about 6 ounces:thumbsup:.

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I hear ya....I sure hope user L454S doesn't "regret" going to synthetic so quickly. Most users here with ZTR experience will recommend waiting "at least" 50 hours(until the engine has been completely broken in) before changing to a synthetic oil. Then, there's always a possibility that it could "complicate" engine work under warranty if the dealer has an issue with going to synthetic at 6 hours:0(

djdicetn said:

I hear ya....I sure hope user L454S doesn't "regret" going to synthetic so quickly. Most users here with ZTR experience will recommend waiting "at least" 50 hours(until the engine has been completely broken in) before changing to a synthetic oil. Then, there's always a possibility that it could "complicate" engine work under warranty if the dealer has an issue with going to synthetic at 6 hours:0(

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I'm sorry, but that is the most 40yr. old bad info I have seen posted on the internet in a while. First what is the difference in engines between a ZTR and a regular mower? You are running the engine at full throttle right out of the gate right? Metallurgy has changed a lot over the last 40 yrs. as relates to rings, pistons, and cylinder wall composition, as has oil chemistry. The lines between syn. and conventional are very blurred. Lots of engines delivered today with syn. in the crankcase.

Not trying to talk you into anything, go ahead and "break in" yours for 50 hours or so. It will be fine......mine too

L454S said:

I'm sorry, but that is the most 40yr. old bad info I have seen posted on the internet in a while. First what is the difference in engines between a ZTR and a regular mower? You are running the engine at full throttle right out of the gate right? Metallurgy has changed a lot over the last 40 yrs. as relates to rings, pistons, and cylinder wall composition, as has oil chemistry. The lines between syn. and conventional are very blurred. Lots of engines delivered today with syn. in the crankcase.

Not trying to talk you into anything, go ahead and "break in" yours for 50 hours or so. It will be fine......mine too

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I won't "debate" synthetic oil versus regular oil(there have been several "heated discussion" threads on these forums regarding that very topic). I have an opinion and you have one. Thing is I have a 1995 Chevy Z71 with a 350 V8 that I bought new and I have used "conventional oil" for 240,000 miles. Runs like the day I bought it with no major engine repairs and may "leak" a pint between 3,000 mile oil changes. IMHO, conventional oil, changed regularly with a new filter will protect an internal combustion engine adequately as well as any synthetic. BTW, just imagine how much money I've saved over 80 oil changes by not buying the expensive synthetic(yeah, I know the syn lovers go a lot farther between oil changes....good luck with that after a quarter of a million miles). That's my story and I'm sticking to it. I did not "bash" you for your decision, only offered my hope that you don't have engine problems at 40 hours and when Hustler finds out you went with synthetic at 6 hours they don't balk at making repairs under warranty. I still hope that!! No need to dis my opinion...like I said my personal vehicle proves synthetic is not necessary for an extended engine life. When ZTR engine manufacturers begin delivering new engines with synthetic oil in them we can resume this debate and you will obviously be right. Currently, most statements that we both have made are right. The 50 hour break-in before going to synthetic is information I got on this forum from "several" respected users over the last two years(not forty years ago).

I think the word OIL should be banned from this group.

Just use whatever oil you want and change it every week or 50 hours whatever comes first.

Guess, I should help out here. I'm a professional performance engine builder. Came on here looking for a good new mower and RSD is one I'm researching. If a motor is built to run with conventional oil at first the cross hatching in the bore will be rougher. If you switch to synthetic to quickly the rings will not be seated and you will get some oil consumptions problems. If this does happen you need to buy a new mower ship me the old one so I can run it on conventional a little long to fix it before putting syn back in and using it if for the next 15 years. If the motor is made to start on syn then the cross hatching will be finer so the rings can seat with the slicker oil. Another thing many might have noticed, but not understand why. It's hard to find thicker syn like 20W-50, unless you order $12 a quart straight 50W Redline to run in your Methanol burning motor. This is because when you go from conv to syn you will go down in weight, so 20-50 would go to a 15-40 or a 15-40 would go 10-30.

RNS said:

Guess, I should help out here. I'm a professional performance engine builder. Came on here looking for a good new mower and RSD is one I'm researching. If a motor is built to run with conventional oil at first the cross hatching in the bore will be rougher. If you switch to synthetic to quickly the rings will not be seated and you will get some oil consumptions problems. If this does happen you need to buy a new mower ship me the old one so I can run it on conventional a little long to fix it before putting syn back in and using it if for the next 15 years. If the motor is made to start on syn then the cross hatching will be finer so the rings can seat with the slicker oil. Another thing many might have noticed, but not understand why. It's hard to find thicker syn like 20W-50, unless you order $12 a quart straight 50W Redline to run in your Methanol burning motor. This is because when you go from conv to syn you will go down in weight, so 20-50 would go to a 15-40 or a 15-40 would go 10-30.

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Thanks for the technical information....I knew there was a reason why so many recommended waiting 50 hours before changing to synthetic, but didn't know exactly what it was.

Ok, question about the tranny tank, is it the smaller one? What is the larger one for, gas? My smaller one is empty, but I thought I read or the sales guys said dont' worry about that one.. Something just doesn't add up??

Thanks
Ken

bricehome1 said:

Ok, question about the tranny tank, is it the smaller one? What is the larger one for, gas? My smaller one is empty, but I thought I read or the sales guys said dont' worry about that one.. Something just doesn't add up??

Thanks
Ken

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The opaque transmission overflow tank is under the seat closer to the front of the mower and is ~4"x4" with a round black cap. It should have oil 20w50 up to the cold fill line. You're gonna wanna add oil in there. Add oil, then run it to pull the oil into the hydros. There was a thread earlier about this. I ended up having to put about 4 oz of oil into mine. Others have had to put more.