It seems as if there could be any one of 5 listed in the manual as stock that could be on the mower . Which one is it?
Here are the Hustler blade number from the parts manual:
601124 3 BLADE, 18.50"-L-F-CW
601012 3 BLADE, F18.50"-L-F-CW
797696 3 BLADE, F18.50"-H-F-CW
797704 3 BLADE, 18.50"-MUL-F-CW
797712 3 BLADE, 18.50"-GAT-F-CW
When I cross reference the Hustler blade numbers on the Oregon website, I come up with the following:
HUSTLER 601124 92-208 BLADE
HUSTLER 601124 Option Oregonョ Exclusive 596-808 BLADE, GATOR G5 HUSTLER 18-1/2 IN
HUSTLER 601124 Option 92-738 BLADE, HUSTLER 18-1/2 IN
I have the Gator G5 #596-808 on my RSD54. Love them. Holding one side by side with Factory blade will make you laugh. they are 1/2" wider, thicker metal, and the rakes on the back, wow... scary...
I have found no legitimate downside yet to them vs factory blades. They are superior in every way: better cut, more vacuum, smaller cuttings, discharge further, hold edge longer. Maybe the only thing you could complain about is more wind noise.
Mine weren't bad out of the package, but I took care to balance them on a 5/8" bearing I have stuck to the side of my workbench. Since the blades are heavier it is a bit more important to get the balance right. All three needed a little shave to get them perfect according to the bearing.
The G5 Gatotor blade should improve the cut quality of the mower, the only down fall to using the blade is that you could possibly loose some blade tip speed because they are a little heavier. The thing I like is the extended cutting length, I think that itself can make a big difference. I use the G6 blades on my mowers.
I don't see how any loss of speed could happen unless something is slipping. Governed RPM is the same regardless of blades and nothing is slowing down unless the engine is already at wide open throttle and doesn't have enough torque to keep up.
I think the extended edge is most of why the clippings are smaller, more chance to get re-cut before making it out the side.
I would think the added thickness of the blade could possibly slow it down. I went from a blade with a thickness of .164 to the G6 @ .250
I recommend getting new blades, Gator G5 596-808
Anyone else thinks that grass looks pretty damn good?!?!? Nice yard.
That's some thick looking grass. The RSD deck is shallower and will have some issues with real heavy material volumes as such. A rule of thumb for grass health and cut quality is at most remove 1/3 of grass length, perhaps cut it a touch more often?
Two elements determine the discharge and even dispersing of clippings for a clean cut but only one is thought to be the problem by owners of mowers and that one element is the blades. Change to this blade or that blade is usually the suggestion with disappointing results.
The second element is deck design and the engineering relationship of the blade to the deck. There are just some mowers that will never do the job you want to see no matter what blade is installed.
I'm sure this isn't what anyone that spends thousands for their pretty mower wants to read or hear but it is fact.
I'm bought in with this idea, but what no one ever talks about is what attributes of either the blades or deck actually have an impact on cut quality. As an engineer, I'd love for someone to be able to point to something specific on the deck of my mower that is causing the issues I see.
I had a similar question about blade design that I posted on this forum or another some time back. I see so many posts where people suggest, "try high lift blades", or "try gator blades", but so little discussion of the science behind why one blade might be better than another for its intended purpose.
Not arguing with your point at all, just wishing we as an internet community could get more science behind the discussion to help understand the issues we're seeing, or at least help others make good choices.
I think if you were to use a set of high lift blades it would give you a better cut. It should give you better lift and discharge.
I'm bought in with this idea, but what no one ever talks about is what attributes of either the blades or deck actually have an impact on cut quality. As an engineer, I'd love for someone to be able to point to something specific on the deck of my mower that is causing the issues I see.
I had a similar question about blade design that I posted on this forum or another some time back. I see so many posts where people suggest, "try high lift blades", or "try gator blades", but so little discussion of the science behind why one blade might be better than another for its intended purpose.
Not arguing with your point at all, just wishing we as an internet community could get more science behind the discussion to help understand the issues we're seeing, or at least help others make good choices.
So where does front to back deck level adjustment come into play when using Gator Blades? I can't say what the OP's deck adj. spec is but on my Xone it's 1/4" lower in front than back. This goes against everything I've used when adjusting the deck on a garden tractor....which is 1/4 HIGHER in front.
I'm wondering if all the posts about wanting a better quality of cut...if the OPs' would adjust the decks to run 1/4" high in front. I've now got my XOne running 1/4" high in front with Gator blades. Just need the grass to grow to see if the QOC is better and leaving behind smaller clippings.
So where does front to back deck level adjustment come into play when using Gator Blades? I can't say what the OP's deck adj. spec is but on my Xone it's 1/4" lower in front than back. This goes against everything I've used when adjusting the deck on a garden tractor....which is 1/4 HIGHER in front.
I'm wondering if all the posts about wanting a better quality of cut...if the OPs' would adjust the decks to run 1/4" high in front. I've now got my XOne running 1/4" high in front with Gator blades. Just need the grass to grow to see if the QOC is better and leaving behind smaller clippings.
What type of blade your using doesn't matter, it can be a gator blade or what ever. You measure blade tip. In most conditions the back blade tip should be adjusted 1/4" higher than the front for the correct pitch on the deck. If your a 1/4" higher in the front you may end up getting a face full of grass because it will blow out the front of the deck because you wont be creating enough lift.
Spent a frustrating Friday cutting 5 days worth of dry growth from my lawn at about 3" high. It had not rained during the previous 5 days but the night before we got a bit of drizzle, leaving the lawn damp when I had to cut it that morning. Had to TRIPLE cut to get this:
Cleaned this mess from under the deck:
Went to see my local dealer. When I told him I was using the Gator G5s, he told me he's not surprised that I'm having discharge and clumping issues, saying the blades are better suited to mulching. He also recommended pitching the deck 1/4" forward.
He gave me a set of the high lift blades and asked that I try them with the deck pitched forward.
Installed them yesterday. Will try a cut today (though only two days of dry growth). I also installed a both adjacent to the discharge chute to level it out a bit so it's not pointing downward (raises it about 1").
The Gator blades are High lift as well as mulching blades. I'll bet if you pitch your deck forward and leave the Gator blades on you wont have that mess. If you triple cut that and you have that left there's something else wrong. I mow wet grass all the time and I never have discharge problems with Gator blades and never leave anything like that, if I did I wouldn't have many clients .
Spent a frustrating Friday cutting 5 days worth of dry growth from my lawn at about 3" high. It had not rained during the previous 5 days but the night before we got a bit of drizzle, leaving the lawn damp when I had to cut it that morning. Had to TRIPLE cut to get this:
Cleaned this mess from under the deck:
Went to see my local dealer. When I told him I was using the Gator G5s, he told me he's not surprised that I'm having discharge and clumping issues, saying the blades are better suited to mulching. He also recommended pitching the deck 1/4" forward.
He gave me a set of the high lift blades and asked that I try them with the deck pitched forward.
Installed them yesterday. Will try a cut today (though only two days of dry growth). I also installed a both adjacent to the discharge chute to level it out a bit so it's not pointing downward (raises it about 1").
When you pitch the deck, are you dropping the front or raising the rear? Does it even matter?
I like your chute mod. I'll have to try that this week.
Mowed 5 days worth of very dry growth today. It was long. Probably took off over an inch, at least. No clumping, but definitely some clippings left behind on the lawn. Deck stayed reasonably clean. Since I have a new chute on order, I'm going to try to cut the chute off square with the end of the deck to see if it helps at all.
Definitely better, but not perfect.
Mowed 5 days worth of very dry growth today. It was long. Probably took off over an inch, at least. No clumping, but definitely some clippings left behind on the lawn. Deck stayed reasonably clean. Since I have a new chute on order, I'm going to try to cut the chute off square with the end of the deck to see if it helps at all.
Definitely better, but not perfect.
Unless your planning on a five day mowing schedule I'd say you have more problems than you know. I mean really, your mowing 5 days worth of very dry growth with a mower that has a 18.900 FPM Blade tip speed and mowing only just over an inch of grass and your still leaving clippings View attachment 26121 something is wrong. Cutting off the chute isn't going to solve your problem.
I think the only way you're going to get the "perfect" that you want is by bagging the clippings. I'd be giddy if I got the results you're getting.
I keep coming back to this...I think I got spoiled all those years I could bag my 1/4 acre property. Now that I've got 1.5 acres, bagging isn't possible. So perhaps I need to get used to a small quantity of clippings.
Then I'm at my son's soccer game yesterday and noticed that the municipal field, which had been cut recently (and couldn't have possibly been bagged), didn't have any evidence of clippings.
So I don't know if I'm expecting too much or if I've still got a problem...
I'll post some before and after pictures of a lawn I'll do in the morning with the g6 blades. for comparison.
Please, thanks!
Yes please. Ric - what type(s) of grass are you cutting and with what brand of equipment?
EDIT - sorry....I see what you have now. A 60" Toro Z-Master 2000 is on my list of possibilities for my new ZTR purchase.
Most of the lawns I cut are both St. Augustine and Bahia depending on the quality sub-division and who is building the homes. I do lawns in one sub-division that is all strictly Bahia.
The thing is most of the time when I start mowing at 7:30 in the morning I've got 90 to100% humidity so the grass is really wet and when you couple the Humidity with people who water at 4 or 5 in the morning some lawns are really wet and the g6 blades do a great job, that's why I don't understand his problem and say there's something else wrong.
I'd bet that mooch is cutting mainly KB with a little fescue and rye mixed in. Typical northern cool season grasses. Very dense and lots of blades to cut up vs. what you are cutting. Golf courses up by us (northern peeps) do leave clippings unlike the many southern courses I have played where it seems like the grass just disappears when it's cut.
IMO...the only thing "wrong" is that he's got a Hustler deck, which for whatever reason doesn't leave a clean cut on lush northern grasses and what appears to be a heavy KB lawn.
G5's, G6's or whatever else.....the clippings aren't TOTALLY going to go away right after they're cut.
I'm assuming your talking about Kentucky Blue Grass when you say KB and if that's what he has he's cutting it at the wrong height by the look of his pictures and that could be one of his problems. I don't agree with the clipping not going totally away because with a double cut they should disappear and he said he triple cut so there is no excuse for clippings being left. I personally feel like the dealership sold the mower and it wasn't properly set up and they sold him a bill of goods blaming the cut on the gator blades and selling him another set of high lifts when he already had high lift blades on the machine.
Yes Ric, I was referring to Kentucky Bluegrass. As you and other stated earlier, height of cut and amount of blade being cut will have an effect. But IMO....you can triple cut KBG (sorry, I left out the "G" in my previous post) and you will still see it. Ask me how I know this? Because my lawn is 75% KBG and as I travel, sometimes I can't mow as often as I want and have to triple cut it. Whether it's my lawn tractor or now gone, XOne, the clippings are still there.
Maybe a good suggestion to mooch is to take it to a different Hustler dealer and have them go thru the deck and make sure the pulley springs are working right? Sounds as if mooch has a handle on deck leveling. The shallower deck that his Hustler has is not known for a good cut on northern grasses. Maybe southern grasses it's OK.
High lift blades wont give you small quantity of clippings, That's what Gator blades are designed to do. When you look at municipal fields, ball parks, football fields and such most will be a special grass like Bermuda and be cut with real mowers not a rotary mower the same with a Golf Coarse and there cut 2 or 3 times weekly so you can't compare them to your lawn. I use the G6 blades on both the Stander and ZTR and mow ever 7 days and I never leave clippings that you'll see and I'll cut off as much as 3 or 4 inches of grass off. I'll post some before and after pictures of a lawn I'll do in the morning with the g6 blades. for comparison.
Please, thanks!
Ok I said I'd post some pictures. The pictures of this lawn were taken this morning after the clients had watered so it was plenty wet as you can see the water standing in the flowerbed. The next picture is just as I was getting started. Third is the roadway portion after mowing once. The last four are when finished and there is no clippings left with the G6 Blades and I removed between 3 and 3.5 inches of St Augustine grass with no double cutting.
View attachment 26142View attachment 26136 View attachment 26137 View attachment 26138 View attachment 26139 View attachment 26140 View attachment 26141
Totally different kind of grass vs. KBG. Not near as dense IMO.
But it's just my opinion and nothing more.
Ok I said I'd post some pictures. The pictures of this lawn were taken this morning after the clients had watered so it was plenty wet as you can see the water standing in the flowerbed. The next picture is just as I was getting started. Third is the roadway portion after mowing once. The last four are when finished and there is no clippings left with the G6 Blades and I removed between 3 and 3.5 inches of St Augustine grass with no double cutting.
View attachment 26142View attachment 26136 View attachment 26137 View attachment 26138 View attachment 26139 View attachment 26140 View attachment 26141
Ric -
First off, lawn looks great! Very well maintained, neat and even cut. Love it!
I don't have any experience with southern grasses, but as 1striper1 has mentioned, the KBG/rye/fescue I'm cutting appears to be very thin bladed and dense compared to the pictures you've shown. I'm not sure if that makes a difference to the mower's ability to discharge, but I imagine it would.
I am planning to be more conscious of the pro cuts of some of the higher end properties in my neighborhood. I've convinced myself that they side discharge and don't leave clippings. Maybe I've just set my expectations too high based upon something that's not possible without bagging, no matter who you are or what type of mower you have.
I did catch the comment about cut height - I do tend to try to leave it a little longer (3.25 - 3.5") based upon reading I've done in the past. I will start reducing my cut height to 3" maximum. But I am curious - will the lawn grow less if I maintain a lower cut height? My assumption is the lawn grows at the same rate no matter what the cut height. So no matter if I cut at 2.75" or 3.5", I'm still taking off the same amount each week, meaning same quantity of clippings and no impact to discharge/cut quality. Is my thinking wrong here?
Thanks.
IMO - the ONLY time you should cut a KBG lawn down to 1.5" is the final cut of the season before winter sets in.
Think of a bell curve when thinking of cutting heights for cool season grasses. Low (1.5 - 2") in spring adjusting slowly up to 3" in the heat of summer and slowly back down again to the same LOW area in the fall and pre-winter final cut.
Weeds and other bad grasses will be kept at bay by keeping the grass taller.
But what do I know....I don't have 2000 posts and live in Wisconsin.
Gee seems like I just kinda said or posted the same thing in my last post, as far as cutting height goes you can cut KBG down to as low as 1.5 inches if you want during the cool times of the year where you are and increase your height during the summer months when it's hot to 3 inches for your location unless it gets extremely hot then maybe as much as 4 inches.
Ric,
Have you ever actually been "up north" and cut (more than 5X) a lush KBG lawn? You say you're from Florida.....I'm just asking if you have. I myself have never cut a warm season grass, but have spent enough time "down south" to say that any grass I have walked on, laid down on, played golf on, or "anything" on has never had the texture of a lush, fine blade KBG lawn.
Maybe I haven't been in the right places....I dunno!
I read your post about cutting heights to mean that one could KEEP a KBG lawn at 1.5". My bad and I'm sorry. :ashamed:
:laughing: Yes I been up north, lived up north and I've cut grass up north and I was so impressed with up north I couldn't wait to leave and I never looked or went back. I mean really you can cut KBG at any length you want to get the look you want.
KBG grass is best cut and probably at its healthiest if maintained at 1 1/2 to 2 1/4 inches to maintain a manicured appearance, thicken the base, and help keep the most moisture in the grass during times of drought conditions. If he cut the lawn at that height his deck would handle the load without clumping and leaving a bunch of clipping all over it especially if he never took off more than a third of the total height.
OK...all I wanted was an answer. Personally I would never want to live in FL. You can have the hurricanes, bugs the size of my hand, ants and all the other issues of living down there.
KBG is healthiest at 1.5 to 2.25? Wow.....I won't touch that one.
Run up that post count Ric! :laughing:
March 20 to April 10 | Clean lawn of debris (i.e. rocks, sticks, etc.). Mow lawn as short as possible and remove clipping debris. |
April 10 to June 15 | Mow lawn at 2.0 inches. Mowing frequency should be dictated by growth rate, never removing more than one-third the mowing height at any mowing. |
June 15 to Aug. 30 | Raise mowing height to 2.5 inches. |
Sept. 1 to Oct. 15 | Lower mowing height to 2.0 inches. |
Oct. 15 to Nov. 15 (or last mowing) | Lower mowing height to 1.5 - 1.75 inches. |
Alternative and Preferred Mowing Schedule: | |
March 29 to last mowing | Maintain 2.5 - 3.5 inch mowing height throughout season to promote rooting and stress tolerance. |
Yeah you mow the stuff when it gets up to like 3 or maybe 3.5 inches in height and you bring it down to 1.5 or 2.25 inches in height depending on what you want. Yeah we have Hurricanes but I think bugs the size of your hand is a little exaggeration, never seen anything that big not even palmetto bugs are that big and like you don't have ants up north and what other issues are there that I'm not aware of :laughing: Yeah you run your heat three quarters of the year and we rub AC
Thing is we've haven't had a Hurricane of any consequence in I don't know how long and as often as they do happen I''l take the Tropical depression anytime to setting in a snow bank and shoveling snow for three quarters of the year.
[h=3]Detailed Mowing Schedule For Kentucky Bluegrass[/h]
March 20 to April 10 Clean lawn of debris (i.e. rocks, sticks, etc.). Mow lawn as short as possible and remove clipping debris. April 10 to June 15 Mow lawn at 2.0 inches. Mowing frequency should be dictated by growth rate, never removing more than one-third the mowing height at any mowing. June 15 to Aug. 30 Raise mowing height to 2.5 inches. Sept. 1 to Oct. 15 Lower mowing height to 2.0 inches. Oct. 15 to Nov. 15 (or last mowing) Lower mowing height to 1.5 - 1.75 inches. Alternative and Preferred Mowing Schedule: March 29 to last mowing Maintain 2.5 - 3.5 inch mowing height throughout season to promote rooting and stress tolerance.
Where did you get those specs from? Up here above the arctic circle (that's where most folks think I live) if you mow KBG at 1.5-2.0 in summer you're battling weeds and crab grass all season as well as the grass going dormant (yellow) due to stress.
But I digress.....you do it your way...I'll do it my way.
What was this thread about?
NW Wisconsin isn't exactly above the arctic circle:smile: Mowing: Older bluegrass varieties were mown at 2-3 inches for a good looking lawn. With the emergence of newer, improved varieties many bluegrass lawns can now be mown shorter than 2 inches. Mowing maintenance requires that you should never remove over a third of the growth at the time. Consistent, not constant mowing will help keep the density of the lawn thick and lush and helps to keep out insects and disease. Over mowing can lead to problems in dehydration of the sod base and invitation to insects with thinning of the grass material.
Jumping back in...
I will say that 3" is a definite inflection point for my lawn and mower. When I mow higher than 3" (which I had been doing, because I always thought longer is better), I was getting a lot of grass laying down and a lot of blades "missed". At 3", especially with the high-lift blades, the cut itself is extremely smooth and even (see the picture of the stripes I posted earlier). We've had a very dry spring here in PA, though, and I'm starting to see the effects in the lawn (dormancy, browning), so I don't think I'll drop the cutting height any time soon.
I don't intend to go much lower than 2.5-2.75", anyway, as I think there's enough uneven-ness in my lawn that I would end up scalping/chopping up some areas if I went shorter.
I can definitely understand the need to not go too low on mowing height, but I'm still trying to read and get an understanding about what benefits you get at different points in the height range. Seems like much of the advice is to mow as long as you can tolerate, as it will crowd out weeds, preserve moisture, etc. But I imagine there's a point where too long becomes bad for the turf quality as well? Most guidance is to not mow too low, but not much info on mowing too high.
Unless by mowing lower I can get the rate of top growth to slow, I don't see the mowing height having a dramatic impact on the issue I've been experiencing, which is the quantity of clippings when mowing once a week. If I'm growing at a rate of 2" per week, I would imagine I'd grow at that same rate whether I mow at 1" height or I mow at 3" height. The final height before I mow will be different, but I'm guessing I'll still be taking 2" off, so the volume of clippings to discharge will be the same.
Yes some of us are!
Cutting down at 3 inches now with virtually no chute (cut square to the edge of the deck). We are practically in a drought here in PA so cuts are very dry. Using the super high lifts the dealer gave me.
Still leaving visible clippings a row or 2 over in some spots of the yard. It is cutting VERY smooth, just not getting the clippings as far out as it could. I measure that the clippings go about 5 feet out at most.
I might still be expecting too much. We are getting out first rain in over a month and I won't be out there again until this weekend (1 week cut interval) so this next cut will be a real test.
Spoke with my dealer yesterday and he told me he will not sell any 60" models because of scalping issues... JS
That's a fairly broad statement... how do know this?....are you "most" all other dealers?...with all due respect that would almost be impossible to know without doin some kind of study.Most all other dealers are carrying them.
That's a fairly broad statement... how do know this?....are you "most" all other dealers?...with all due respect that would almost be impossible to know without doin some kind of study.
That's a fairly broad statement... how do know this?....are you "most" all other dealers?...with all due respect that would almost be impossible to know without doin some kind of study.
Lol....as opinionated as I am... I'm sure I have..unless I had a large FLAT yard I would avoid the 60" model...my dealer attributed it to the terrain around here...could be I guess...smart choice you made there going with Kawasaki instead of the Kohler..one of the many reasons I bought my Hustler..I don't think them Kohler's are gonna boost sales that's for sure...What most folks don't think about (and no I am not most folks) lol...at least I didn't anyway because I actually wanted a larger deck but they (dealer) didn't have one in stock and I don't do very well at waiting so I ended up with a 48" is unless you go up in engine size your gonna lose power with that larger deck..glad I ended up with my 48" because I feel like any bigger and mine woulda been under powered...FX691V and a 48" deck is a good combo...at least on my FTSD it is anyway..I hope you enjoy your new mower as much as I've enjoyed mineIt was a broad statement and I have seen you make some broad statements also; it is pretty obvious no one can speak for all dealers but we speak from our experience.
In the past week I have visited 7 Hustler dealers in Indiana and Illinois (I travel for a living so it was pretty easy to stop at a lot of different dealers, I actually stopped at many more than 7 but only 7 hustler dealers). Since I was considering the best value I was talking about everything from the 42 inch Raptor to the 60 inch SD. 5 had 60" in stock, the other two had them on order. So, of the seven dealers I spoke with, none indicated anything negative about the 60" to the degree they would not re-order.
On another note, one thing that pushed my decision is all the new mowers they are getting in (Raptor) have the KT725 motor rather than the Kaw. No one could tell me for sure if the SD would come with the Kaw or Kohler so I bought an SD on the spot to make sure I got the motor I wanted.
Lol....as opinionated as I am... I'm sure I have..unless I had a large FLAT yard I would avoid the 60" model...my dealer attributed it to the terrain around here...could be I guess...smart choice you made there going with Kawasaki instead of the Kohler..one of the many reasons I bought my Hustler..I don't think them Kohler's are gonna boost sales that's for sure...What most folks don't think about (and no I am not most folks) lol...at least I didn't anyway because I actually wanted a larger deck but they (dealer) didn't have one in stock and I don't do very well at waiting so I ended up with a 48" is unless you go up in engine size your gonna lose power with that larger deck..glad I ended up with my 48" because I feel like any bigger and mine woulda been under powered...FX691V and a 48" deck is a good combo...at least on my FTSD it is anyway..I hope you enjoy your new mower as much as I've enjoyed mine
They should give you a full refund on the Raptor (my dealer did me)...I originally bought the Raptor when they first came out in 2013...I spent twice as much money on my Fast Trak SD but I have at minimum 3 times the mower...looks like a nice place you have there and plenty to mow as well..Hustler builds very good mowers but I am by no means a fan of the Raptor...my mom in law has one that every time she mows with it (no matter what the conditions are) I have to scrape out the deck... I HATE IT!!...BUT...I absolutely LOVE my FTSD.So I've proven it can't cut without leaving clumps/visible clippings during the middle of a drought cutting at 4 day intervals. It surely can't do it with spring growth or a more reasonable (weekly) cutting rate.
I've tried every adjustment possible on this thing, every blade available... I think it's about time I call it what it is and move on to something better. I'm going to try Hustler corporate customer service on Monday for one last shot at seeing if there's something I'm missing, or something they can do, but I'm not optimistic. Had I known the cut quality was going to be this pathetic, I'd have spent a couple of thousand more on a pro model.
They should give you a full refund on the Raptor (my dealer did me)...I originally bought the Raptor when they first came out in 2013...I spent twice as much money on my Fast Trak SD but I have at minimum 3 times the mower...looks like a nice place you have there and plenty to mow as well..Hustler builds very good mowers but I am by no means a fan of the Raptor...my mom in law has one that every time she mows with it (no matter what the conditions are) I have to scrape out the deck... I HATE IT!!...BUT...I absolutely LOVE my FTSD.
These HI-Lifts you have on now, Are they Hustler blades ? Whats the part #. Here is the Part # for some Big-Dog blades, They call them "Catcher" Blades. They have a very similar profile and lift "Fin" like the Scag super hi-lift blade. Hustler part# 602416
Is the deck Level side to side? Deck Pitch? Reason I ask as it looks too not be level in the pics. Is the engine running at 3600 RPM's, Alot of the units I've seen were NOT running at correct rpm. If all checks out good, I would try setting deck Pitch differently and see what happens. got nothing to lose right? I've had some older Fastrak's that I've had too set pitch 1\4 HIGH in front to get them to cut good.
OP back.
Embarrassing cut tonight with my SD 54.
I was on vacation this week, so my lawn went 8 days since the last cut. We had two significant thunderstorms this past week which brought some torrential rains too, so there was some growth.
I'd say I was between 5 and 6", cutting at 3". So in some cases I was taking 50%+ off the lawn. Not ideal, but I would have hoped not overwhelming for the mower either.
Attached is what I got. This is still with the super high lifts and a squared-off discharge chute.
I'm back to running the Gator blades and I made an arbitrary increase in engine speed tonight. Not sure if it's 3600 rpm or above (lever is about 1/8" from the end of its travel in the cam), but there's not much more room to increase speed beyond where I have it.
Same result. TWO days worth of growth (two big downpours over the last two days) and I still have rows of visible clippings and some smaller clumps. I was trying to determine if it was throwing the clippings further (before, most clippings were landing between 3 and 5 feet). It might be a hair better in terms of distance thrown, but hard to tell.
Your trying to fix a problem with a mower when the mower isn't the issue. The mower is doing all it can do. You can't cut grass that's 5 and 6" high taking 50%+ off the lawn and not expect the outcome that your getting. Your deck wont handle it. You need to increase the frequency of cutting to no more than every three days until you get the lawn under control. I'd start at the top of my height settings and cut at a 3 day interval bringing it down a 1/4" at a time until you get the lawn cutting to a 3 1/4" height and at that point re-cut the lawn when it gets to a 4" height at your 3 1/4 setting and you''ll solve your clumping issue and have a better looking lawn.
I've only done that once this season, when I was on vacation last week, and I posted the pics. That was an extreme example.
I can get it looking good, but it means I need to cut it every 2-3 days to keep up with it. I've posted pics in this thread of what it looks like being cut at that rate. Even then, though, I get many visible clippings and some clumping. I wanted to test the Gator blades with higher engine speed last night so I worked a 20x20 area that was cut only 2 days before. I left a heavy layer of clippings that I could not make disappear, even after triple cutting.
What you're implying is that all of the good looking lawns around me are being cut every two days which is not the case. Most folks have pro services come in once per week and when I observe and see how their lawns ultimately look, most of them have no visible clippings. They're not being bagged, just side discharged, and they are being cut very quickly.
There's something different. Either I have a mutant lawn that grows so fast no mower will ever keep up, or my equipment is not up to keeping this type of lawn manicured in the way I want it.
I think the ultimate test is to borrow a commercial unit, wait 5-7 days, and see how it cuts the lawn.
Just stopped in to see my dealer...
He has a 54" Fastrak that I can reserve for demo, I think I'm going to do that next week.
Then I can see if mower or lawn are making the bigger difference. I know it's not top-of-the-line, but it's a step up from the Raptor SD and will be interesting to see how it performs.
mooch,Just stopped in to see my dealer...
He has a 54" Fastrak that I can reserve for demo, I think I'm going to do that next week.
Then I can see if mower or lawn are making the bigger difference. I know it's not top-of-the-line, but it's a step up from the Raptor SD and will be interesting to see how it performs.
mooch,
Wondering if you had a chance to try the Fastrack yet and if it made a difference; looking forward to hearing your results. I am interested to learn how high you have to climb the ladder to get a unit that can cut your grass without leaving clumps.
Your not gonna want to return that Fast Trak... It may be just one step up from that RSD but it's be 3 times the mower of that RSD...I can promise you that.....REALLY lookin forward to your review on the Fast Trak...Enjoy!Not yet, probably won't get to it for a week or two due to some personal items. Will keep you all posted.
Your not gonna want to return that Fast Trak... It may be just one step up from that RSD but it's be 3 times the mower of that RSD...I can promise you that.....REALLY lookin forward to your review on the Fast Trak...Enjoy!
I need to read up on the Fastrak models - I believe there used to be a base model and an SD, not sure of the differences between them, and I know there have been changes for 2015. I'm also not sure which of them he was planning to let me demo. I do know that the one he pointed to when he and I were speaking had the FR691V on it, which is the same as my Raptor SD.
Ric we don't disagree very often however I feel like he's gonna notice a huge difference in these two mowers....I can ALMOST say I know he will but only time will tell...this will be interesting... Can't wait for him to get that demo!I seriously doubt you will see a lot of difference between the two mowers. About the only difference is the fastrak has a 5" deck vs the raptors 4.5'. Engine wise there both the Kawasaki 691, ones an FR and the other an FS which will Probably outlast the FR but seeing that there both running the 18.900 BTS / FPM the cutting and discharge shouldn't be that great of a difference.
When you talk about Lawn company's and seeing what they do, have you ever talked to one of the guys to get there opinion on what to do or maybe what there running and why? If the deck you are using with a G5 or 6 Gator blade is leaving clumps, you have more grass under the deck than that particular make of deck can handle, you may want to consider another brand of mower. What other type of mowers does your dealer handle?
Me? I am. Lever all the way forward.
I'm back to running the Gator blades and I made an arbitrary increase in engine speed tonight. Not sure if it's 3600 rpm or above (lever is about 1/8" from the end of its travel in the cam), but there's not much more room to increase speed beyond where I have it.
Your not gonna want to return that Fast Trak... It may be just one step up from that RSD but it's be 3 times the mower of that RSD...I can promise you that.....REALLY lookin forward to your review on the Fast Trak...Enjoy!
The FR series engines are on the standard Fastrak....FS series is on the SD edition and yes they still build those and now (on the new models) in order to get the FX (commercial) series you have to step up to the SDX model which is a new model introduced in 2015...I have a 2013 FTSD...they came with FX series engines on them back then...some changes to the new mods are a deeper deck (which is good) bigger tires....the SD edition. now comes with ZT 3400 transmissions instead of the ZT3100 which I have on my FTSD both are commercial grade...mine also has a chain hung deck which is very important to the point where I feel it can't be over stated...all new FT models have bracket hung decks...in order to get a chain hung deck now you must step up to the X-one series... there are some other minor differences but I feel these are the important...the standard FT would probably suit your mowing needs just fine...however I have a history of going bigger than I need...if it were me I'd go for the SDX or at minimum the SD model.
I should have read this before I responded to your other post.
Question on the FR vs FS or FX; I thought I read someplace that the only difference is access to filters and things of that nature, is there something different in the build that would make them last longer?
Sounds like if he doesn't like the Raptor SD he really needs to go at least to the Fastrack SD
Ok, this is why I asked (see below) Either way it should be all the way forward.
That half inch will make more of a difference than you think and that deck is a completely different design...that half sure makes it look bigger...they are not even close to being the same mower..lol
PV,
I just went to the Hustler Website and did a comparison; These are almost exactly the same mower, here are some specs and I will highlight the exceptions
Engine - same
Drive System - SD 2800; FT 3100 and .5 mph faster I don't believe this will affect the cut but I could be wrong.
Deck, 1/2 inch deeper, honest question; can a half inch make that much difference?
Blade - same
Blade Tip Speed; FT 18910, SD 18900 (I would guess the 10fpm difference is within the margin of error)
Spindle - same
Deck construction FT 10ga, SD 11 ga -this tells me the FT is more HD but again do not know if the cut would be affected
Frame is made with a little stronger steel on FT
Tires FT 22 x 11 - 10 SD 20 x 12 - 10
weight FT 860 SD 650
There are other differences that should not affect the cut such as gas tank, etc.
I have made some assumptions here and could be wrong. I can see that the FT may last longer but do not see how it will cut any better unless it is the .5 in deck height. .5 doesn't sound like much but it is greater than 10% increase.
Interested in why you think it will cut better.
That half inch will make more of a difference than you think and I don't think the deck is designed the same either...that half sure makes it look bigger...they are not even close to being the same mower..lol
..... you shall see for yourself
There will be huge difference in cut quality...less build up under the deck... better discharge.... Will be kinda like goin from log wagon to Cadillac... and that's not an exaggeration... I don't know why Ric would think there's not much difference in these mowers...also forgot to mention that Deck will handle wet grass much better as well.When I looked at the deck quickly last weekend, the FT definitely looked a bit deeper. The side discharge was big compared to the RSD with that curved, open-top discharge with the bar across the bottom, and underneath looked more "open".
That does depend on how much the home owner is mowing and the terrain and something I feel is never mentioned is..... it also depends on how well the H.O. wants his lawn mower to perform.One of the differences between the engines is the air filtration system. The FR is only a single stage. The FS is a dual element and you need to service the foam element every 25 hrs and the paper element every 50hrs/ replace at 200hrs. The fx Has the Dual stage canister air filter, it has a Primary and a Safety inside the the primary and the service interval is 250hrs and replacement is every 500hrs. The Fx has a metal engine cover and a heavy duty shift-type starter. The Thing is if your a homeowner and using the mower for your personal use the Raptor sd with the FR and 2800 drives are all you would need, a commercial drive is really a waste of money for a homeowner.
Only problem with this theory is....that mower don't come with a gas pedal and on a ZT you should always be mowin full throttle..so I'd say it would effect BTSI think the added mass and windage might increase engine load a bit, and fuel use, but I don't see RPM changing. compare it to towing a trailer in your car. you still have plenty of power to go faster than speed limit, but maintaining the limit your foot is a little deeper into the throttle.
That half inch will make more of a difference than you think and I don't think the deck is designed the same either...that half sure makes it look bigger...they are not even close to being the same mower..lol
..... you shall see for yourself
When I looked at the deck quickly last weekend, the FT definitely looked a bit deeper. The side discharge was big compared to the RSD with that curved, open-top discharge with the bar across the bottom, and underneath looked more "open".
There will be huge difference in cut quality...less build up under the deck... better discharge.... Will be kinda like goin from log wagon to Cadillac... and that's not an exaggeration... I don't know why Ric would think there's not much difference in these mowers...also forgot to mention that Deck will handle wet grass much better as well.
I would guess that the half inch in depth could make some difference but with the BTS/FPM being the same or equal I wouldn't think there would be a lot of difference.I don't see the creation of vacuum and rate of discharge being all that different. PV you run the Hustler so you should know what's what with them, me I'm a Toro guy and I'll take my Turbo Force deck.:smile: If you say there's going to be huge difference in cut quality, I'll go with you.
I would guess that the half inch in depth could make some difference but with the BTS/FPM being the same or equal I wouldn't think there would be a lot of difference.I don't see the creation of vacuum and rate of discharge being all that different. PV you run the Hustler so you should know what's what with them, me I'm a Toro guy and I'll take my Turbo Force deck.:smile: If you say there's going to be huge difference in cut quality, I'll go with you.
That is your opinion, not mine.The Thing is if your a homeowner and using the mower for your personal use the Raptor sd with the FR and 2800 drives are all you would need, a commercial drive is really a waste of money for a homeowner.
That is your opinion, not mine.
I'm a homeowner that mows a 7acres lawn. I own a Hustler Super Z w/35 HP Kawasaki and the 72" deck.
I wanted the Super Z to cut my mowing time way down, and last me the next 15-20 years.
I owned A Hustler FasTrak 54" for 4 years. It was an excellent mower, but I wanted bigger, faster, more power..
I sold it and upsized to the Super Z and wouldn't want anything less.
Yes, I have the 72" VX4 deck.Exactly what I'm gonna do in 2 more years...do you have the VX4 deck on your Z....and how do you like it?
Never ran one of those Toro's but that deck does get good reviews.Do you have a Hustler dealer in your area... and if so have you ever ran Hustler... Just wondering why you chose the Toro over the rest of the competition... My dealer's son and I are good friends so I'm in and out of their shop all the time so I am FAIRLY knowledgeable about these mowers... they carry Hustler and Grasshopper exclusively...I can ALMOST promise you he will be back on here shortly braggin about his new Fast Trak lol
That is your opinion, not mine.
I'm a homeowner that mows a 7acres lawn. I own a Hustler Super Z w/35 HP Kawasaki and the 72" deck.
I wanted the Super Z to cut my mowing time way down, and last me the next 15-20 years.
I owned A Hustler FasTrak 54" for 4 years. It was an excellent mower, but I wanted bigger, faster, more power..
I sold it and upsized to the Super Z and wouldn't want anything less.
Exactly what I'm gonna do in 2 more years...do you have the VX4 deck on your Z....and how do you like it?
Wanting/expecting performance and longevity from your machine makes no sense ??The theory above just doesn't make any sense to me at all, bigger, faster, more power
Wanting/expecting performance and longevity from your machine makes no sense ??
My neighbor has a Raptor SD. The difference between it and my Super Z as far as mowing speed, power, ride, and build is huge.
I certainly wouldn't want to mow my large yard with a Raptor every week.
The Super Z does it with ease. Does it fast, and will do it for many, many years. Makes perfect sense.
We use all the power and speed my Super Z will give us every week when we mow. Nothing wasted here. We use it all.The problem with the Super Z for a homeowner is the fact the mower is never used for it's intended use so the 35HP engine and drive speeds are wasted,
We use all the power and speed my Super Z will give us every week when we mow. Nothing wasted here. We use it all.
One of my main complaints about my previous FastraK (23 HP Kawasaki, w/54" deck) was lack of power. Seemed we had to often slow down because were running out of power.
Upsizing to the Super Z 72" deck I didn't want to have an issue with barely enough power again. I went with the 35 HP Kawasaki.
Mowing at full speed with the 72" deck I'm sure glad I didn't go with any less power.
After years of mowing our lawn we know where all the bumps are.As far as mowing speeds go, in reality the Super Z doesn't cut as fast as the Raptor SD. Just because you can run a higher MPH doesn't mean you can cut any faster. The Raptor is rated to cut 18900 fpm, the Super Z is rated at or for 18040 fpm from Hustler. Anything beyond that and you sacrifice cut quality. The top end speeds/mph is intended for transport not mowing. Actually and in reality the Super Z was not designed to cut ones lawn. They were designed for the big Commercial boys that run main roads or sub-divisions for HOA where they would be out 3 or 4 miles from a their trailers and have to get back in a sufficient amount of time.
I would go ahead with your Fast Trak demo...you will not have these problems with the Fast Trak....when you spend as much on a mower as you did that Raptor SD you shouldn't have to "baby" it to get the result you want...I think that's a very poor deck design on the Raptor and Raptor SD...you may be mowing a lil too fast and cutting more off at once than you should but sometimes I know that I want to now faster than I should and cut more off at once than I should so I want a mower that can handle it and I have one in the Fast Trak SD..I just can't wait for you to demo that Fast Trak!Another pretty miserable cut at a 7-day interval today.
I did about 1/4 of the lawn Friday night before some heavy rain started yesterday. I came back and redid and finished it off today.
The area I didn't cut on Friday was obviously the worst (I took off a couple of inches of growth), but even the area cut on Friday had heavy clippings and some clumps. I triple cut some areas and still have a nice heavy dusting of clippings.
My wife is actually starting to get upset because my son is tracking healthy quantities of clippings in to the house.
One interesting thing I observed and now I think I know why multiple cuts don't seem to make the clippings go away - the discharge coming out of the side seems to be concentrated to the front end of the discharge chute. I would say that better than 80% of the clippings come out in a stream about 1-2" wide at the front end of the chute. They're definitely not discharging from the whole width of the chute. I don't know if this is the way all side discharge mowers work or if it's something unique to mine that's contributing to my problem. I'll see if I can post a video I took of the discharge while mowing.
We use all the power and speed my Super Z will give us every week when we mow. Nothing wasted here. We use it all.
One of my main complaints about my previous FastraK (23 HP Kawasaki, w/54" deck) was lack of power. Seemed we were always needing to slow down because were running out of power.
Upsizing to the Super Z 72" deck I didn't want to have an issue with barely enough power again. I went with the 35 HP Kawasaki.
Mowing at full speed with the 72" deck I'm sure glad I didn't go with any less power.
I don't think.your crazy lol..your probably right about his mowing speed and amount of cut...however there's NO WAY all his problems with that mower are a result of operator error..for that much $$$ that mower should be able to handle a lil operator error...JMOI know your going to think I'm crazy but Right off hand the video is telling me two things, One with the build up of grass on the top deck your mowing way too much grass at a time. Two by the looks of the ground and the rate it's moving your mowing too fast.
As I said earlier in the thread you need to increase the frequency of cutting to no more than every three days until you get the lawn under control. Every 7 days is not going to be acceptable. I'd start at the top of my height settings and cut at a 3 day interval bringing it down a setting every cut until you get the lawn cutting to a 3"and 3 1/4" height and at that point re-cut the lawn when it gets to a 4" height at your 3" setting and you''ll solve your clumping issue and have a better looking lawn.
The mower you have is doing all it can do and no matter what changes you make it's not going to help.
It's hard to take a video and control the mower at the same time, so forgive the fact that I wasn't controlling speed. I can assure you - I was crawling with the mower for a few passes today as well. It definitely improved but still wasn't resolving the issue.
Ok a couple of questions. You said you did this last cut at a seven day interval. How tall was the grass before you cut it? and what setting did you have the mower set at?
It was at 5+ inches and I cut to 3.
I know mowing every 2-3 days will be best, but it's a tough frequency to keep up with. And I've sent some pics showing that I will still get heavy clippings and clumps in part of the yard when I do mow at this frequency.
You keep mentioning "get the lawn in to control" - it's "in control" every time I cut it, as I leave it at 3" each and every time I'm done. Frequent cuts have not slowed it down (the last couple of 7-day intervals were exception to the fast rate I've been cutting all summer). So unless there is some way to stunt its growth, this is what I've got.
It was at 5+ inches and I cut to 3.
I know mowing every 2-3 days will be best, but it's a tough frequency to keep up with. And I've sent some pics showing that I will still get heavy clippings and clumps in part of the yard when I do mow at this frequency.
You keep mentioning "get the lawn in to control" - it's "in control" every time I cut it, as I leave it at 3" each and every time I'm done. Frequent cuts have not slowed it down (the last couple of 7-day intervals were exception to the fast rate I've been cutting all summer). So unless there is some way to stunt its growth, this is what I've got.
OK....I've I got a question lol....who wants to spend roughly $4,500 on a mower that when you get a little behind on your mowing schedule you have to deal with this?
am i going to regret getting a raptor sd 54? i will mainly being using it to cut tall grass. maybe 6" to 1' tall, empty lots.
From my experience I would say will you be happy with it, talk to mooch and PV and they will tell you will hate it. Why don't you demo one for a couple days and see for yourself.am i going to regret getting a raptor sd 54? i will mainly being using it to cut tall grass. maybe 6" to 1' tall, empty lots.
And that is why I went with the 35 HP when I upsized to the 72" Super Z.That's the main reason I went with the 48" instead of the 54"...POWER...I feel like mine would be under powered if I had the 54"...I have plenty of horse's for the 48".
am i going to regret getting a raptor sd 54? i will mainly being using it to cut tall grass. maybe 6" to 1' tall, empty lots.
If you haven't read this whole thread you may want to before you buy, Take a good look at the photo's and you can make up your mind.
If your going to attempt 6" to a 1' foot tall grass my choice would be a good 48" walk behind, it would do the job well. It just depends on what type of cut your looking for, I wouldn't attempt foot tall grass with a ztr.
well, the lawns i'll be cutting wont matter how they look. lol
these raptors cant cut any worse than my old home depot cub cadet, could it?
walk? i suppose i could use the exercise, but it ain't gonna happen.
[...]
...mine also has a chain hung deck which is very important to the point where I feel it can't be over stated...all new FT models have bracket hung decks...in order to get a chain hung deck now you must step up to the X-one series...
[...]
Would you kindly expand on chain over brackets?
Why is this feature so important?
The chain hung deck still has forward mounted height
adjust "brackets", yes/no?
Cheers
well, the lawns i'll be cutting wont matter how they look. lol
these raptors cant cut any worse than my old home depot cub cadet, could it?
walk? i suppose i could use the excercise, but it aint gonna happen.
The Raptor that I bought and happily returned for a refund...did not cut as well as the Troy-Built lawn tractor I traded in for it...and the lil stump I hit that bent the deck mounts...my Troy-Built would have been able to absorb the impact because there was some play in the deck mounts it would give a little instead of bending the deck mounts like the Raptor did.
If they don't matter how they look I'd say stick to the old home depot cub cadet, why waste the money on a ZTR. Seriously a ZTR wasn't designed for a bush hog, the tractor would be just as fast if that's your trying to accomplish.
The Raptor that I bought and happily returned for a refund...did not cut as well as the Troy-Built lawn tractor I traded in for it...and the lil stump I hit that bent the deck mounts...my Troy-Built would have been able to absorb the impact because there was some play in the deck mounts it would give a little instead of bending the deck mounts like the Raptor did.
Based on this thread, I keep second guessing my Raptor SD purchase, that is until I cut my grass again. I have not yet been able to cut it when it is dry, it has rained so much and growing so fast, if there is a few hour break in the rain I cut it. Just finished cutting about an inch that has grown in 4 days. Grass was wet, ground was soft. The only time I noticed any clumping was when I put it in reverse (no idea why this would happen since the blades still turn the same way). I quickly drove over the clump and it was gone (I do have the mulch kit). I am the only one in the neighborhood who cuts their own lawn and it looks every bit as good as any professionally cut lawn. I am also the only one who seems to fertilize so actually it looks better. Could not be happier with the SD.
I do have a problem and I think it is related to ZTM in general and it has to do with turning at the end of a run. I am putting a nice divot at the end of each line I cut (OK, the professional cut lawns do not have this, so in that case they look better) I know it is technique, but not sure what I am doing wrong. Any suggestions?
Try This for turning at the end of a run. It's the Y Turn
I do have a problem and I think it is related to ZTM in general and it has to do with turning at the end of a run. I am putting a nice divot at the end of each line I cut (OK, the professional cut lawns do not have this, so in that case they look better) I know it is technique, but not sure what I am doing wrong. Any suggestions?
Thank you Ric, I will try that.
I think you are a lawn pro so I will pose a couple questions to you
1. Any idea why I get clumping in reverse when virtually nothing in forward (grass is very wet)
2. This entire conversation got me very interested in "clumping" and why the pros don't get any. I had the opportunity to watch two lawns being pro cut today. I took my dogs for a walk past the houses and both had clumps of grass, I was surprised because I have not seen this before. they both had different ways to take care of the problem, one used a back mounted blower and blew the clumps into fine grass and they dissipated. The other walked around the yard with what looked to be a very stiff bristled push broom and raked over the clumps and they disappeared. Is this how pros normally deal with clumps?
Based on this thread, I keep second guessing my Raptor SD purchase, that is until I cut my grass again. I have not yet been able to cut it when it is dry, it has rained so much and growing so fast, if there is a few hour break in the rain I cut it. Just finished cutting about an inch that has grown in 4 days. Grass was wet, ground was soft. The only time I noticed any clumping was when I put it in reverse (no idea why this would happen since the blades still turn the same way). I quickly drove over the clump and it was gone (I do have the mulch kit). I am the only one in the neighborhood who cuts their own lawn and it looks every bit as good as any professionally cut lawn. I am also the only one who seems to fertilize so actually it looks better. Could not be happier with the SD.
I do have a problem and I think it is related to ZTM in general and it has to do with turning at the end of a run. I am putting a nice divot at the end of each line I cut (OK, the professional cut lawns do not have this, so in that case they look better) I know it is technique, but not sure what I am doing wrong. Any suggestions?
The chains allow for the deck to basically float which gives you a much better cut and THEY DON'T BEND.
...mmmm, okay.
I'll change out mine to find out about float although I got no
gripe with manicure. But our grasses (.au) and methods of
housekeeping are way different to what I read and see here
reported in posts.
On manicure, or rather clippings gathering, I am going to get up
a thread on Walkers. I have found an Australian distributor
Home Page
but would seek some feedback from the "home country".
I would appreciate your looking at that thread and maybe
offer some input, thanks.
so i got a 54" raptor sd. cut some tall grass today 12", and had quite a bit of wet grass stuck under the deck.
i'm thinking of swapping the stock blades for something with more lift.
the grass seems to clump in the upper corners of the deck. i wonder if something can be placed there to fill the corner or make it a 45 degree inside corner.
here is a quick sketch. see red lines.
I really don't get it, you just said you cut 12 inches of wet grass, which means you cut 6 to 7 inches of wet grass and you wonder why it was stuck under the deck; what do you think wet grass is going to do? You don't need more lift, you need to cut your grass more often.
these are empty lots. so they dont get cut frequent. the grass was dry. didnt rain. grass was just wet from the moisture in the grass.
the cub cadet blew a motor after after only 150 hours of cutting. not buying another.
did you have the raptor sd? what exactly bent? those long pins that the deck hangs on?
should i have gotten some goats instead?
Two elements determine the discharge and even dispersing of clippings for a clean cut but only one is thought to be the problem by owners of mowers and that one element is the blades. Change to this blade or that blade is usually the suggestion with disappointing results.
The second element is deck design and the engineering relationship of the blade to the deck. There are just some mowers that will never do the job you want to see no matter what blade is installed.
I'm sure this isn't what anyone that spends thousands for their pretty mower wants to read or hear but it is fact.
All,
I love my Raptor SD 54, but I've been a little disappointed in the cut quality. I stepped up from a 36" Snapper Pro walk-behind that would vacuum and cut the lawn and make it look like a carpet when done.
The Raptor is doing a good job, just not excellent. It doesn't seem to get that vacuum effect like the Snapper did. For example, I used to run over twigs and sticks on the Snapper, and it would pick them up, chop them a bit, and spit them out. I've noticed that the Hustler rarely, if ever, lifts a twig or stick from the lawn. Same with stones - the edge of my property has a row of stones that I used to have to be careful with when using the Snapper (as it would lift them and discharge them). I can run over the stone edge with the Hustler with no worries of it lifting them up. With the Raptor, it generally seems as if the grass will lay down a bit while being cut instead of being lifted.
Seems as if I could get some more vacuum under the deck that I'd be able to get a better cut with the Raptor SD. At least that's my thought of what could improve the situation. I don't see anything else wrong with the mower (deck is level, blades are sharp), except for a little bit of clutch rattle when engaging the blades (but I don't suspect this would cause the cut issue).
Any recommendations on specific blades that can accomplish this? I know there are 5 blades listed in the Hustler parts manual (including what looks like Gator blades and high lift blades), but it's very hard to get a clear idea of what blade will work best to accomplish what I'm looking for. Some say the gators are the way to go, others say go high lift, but not a lot of reasons as to why to choose one over the other. I'd prefer some real-world experience as to which would be best to improve the cut quality. I don't want to keep buying blades (at 3 of them) to experiment.
Thanks!!!
Still waitin on that Fast Trak demo...keep us posted.. Thanks!
Still waiting too, the holiday weekend did not allow me to reserve with the dealer this weekend.
I'll share an update on the cut I made yesterday. Six days since my last cut due to a short vacation again this time. It was long, for sure, but by no means a pasture at this point.
I measure that I was cutting at about 5 1/2 inches of length:
Or to put it another way, taking off about 2 - 2 1/2 inches:
I cleaned the deck beforehand and put the high-lift blades back on. About 1/3 of a 5-gallon bucket worth of scrap came off:
Some pics during and after pass number one:
I then raised the deck by 1/2 inch and did a second (and in some cases a third) pass across the whole lawn to try to disperse the clippings, in progress shot:
Ended up like this:
Couldn't get them to completely disappear, I was just blowing them back and forth after a while, but the stripes looked nice:
Healthy amount of deck blowout happening with the high-lift blades and the deck raised by 1/2 inch:
Where'd you get your stripping kit?...Very nice yard BTW.
Thanks. Home-made, per some instructions and ideas on lawnsite.com.
Looks like some pretty country there in the background...didn't know it was that pretty in New Jersey.Still waiting too, the holiday weekend did not allow me to reserve with the dealer this weekend.
I'll share an update on the cut I made yesterday. Six days since my last cut due to a short vacation again this time. It was long, for sure, but by no means a pasture at this point.
I measure that I was cutting at about 5 1/2 inches of length:
Or to put it another way, taking off about 2 - 2 1/2 inches:
I cleaned the deck beforehand and put the high-lift blades back on. About 1/3 of a 5-gallon bucket worth of scrap came off:
Some pics during and after pass number one:
I then raised the deck by 1/2 inch and did a second (and in some cases a third) pass across the whole lawn to try to disperse the clippings, in progress shot:
Ended up like this:
Couldn't get them to completely disappear, I was just blowing them back and forth after a while, but the stripes looked nice:
Healthy amount of deck blowout happening with the high-lift blades and the deck raised by 1/2 inch:
Looks like some pretty country there in the background...didn't know it was that pretty in New Jersey.
It's actually Pennsylvania. Moved last year but never updated my profile. But in defense of NJ, there's some nice land there too!
Just curious... does everyone else have this seemingly "empty" bolt hole on the top of their Raptor SD deck as well? Every time I see it has filled up with grass, I wonder what it's for, or if something "fell off" my deck.
Beautiful lawn....about what is your ground speed?
I'm on the fence about a raptor SD or the new ariens ikon. Does the deck on the SD seem like it has any suction...I mean...if you passed a leaf with the trimming edge would it pull it in? Seems like a deck needs to be pulling air to do a good job...at least on my lawn. I have a anti blowout lip on my Deere deck and it cuts great and will pull in a leaf or piece of paper from 3" away...but leaves rocks and pebbles alone.
Thanks Mooch...and how about ground speed vrs quality of cut. Is there a big difference between say 3-4 MPH vrs full ground speed? I love the idea of the SD having the monster tires, kaw engine, and 2800 hydros but quality of cut is important to me. It almost seems to me your lawn is "so thick" it won't let the clippings drop in between the grass blades to disappear?
Are you happy enough to keep the machine.....or.....shopping again...lol?
I've cut at full speed and have slowed it down considerably. I see a bit poorer discharge and cut at full speed, but I can never move slow enough to totally stop the uneven discharge and clumping from my mower. I'm waiting for the opportunity to demo a couple of other machines before passing final judgment on the Raptor SD for my lawn...
Are you going to demo another SD to make sure it's not an issue specific to your unit? I had an older Dixon that was having issues much like yours and I (after much headache) found out I had a belt slipping. With a new belt with proper tension it was back to cutting like new.
Are you going to demo another SD to make sure it's not an issue specific to your unit? I had an older Dixon that was having issues much like yours and I (after much headache) found out I had a belt slipping. With a new belt with proper tension it was back to cutting like new.
Is this something I can check now? I've never thrown a belt, or had one shred, like some folks on this forum so I never gave it much consideration.
But I don't believe there are any adjustments on the deck belt, just a spring that holds it in place.
I
If there's a troubleshooting procedure for the deck belt, I'd love to give it a shot.
This thread is now really long and it may have been covered already but I've seen posts where guys claim there was a certain period of time where raptors got out of the factory w/wrong sized pulleys which slowed blade speed. The story seems a bit funny in that a person would think wrong pulleys would affect belt tension. I guess it would be worth looking to see if your belt is real shiney/glazed on the outside?
When I shopped a raptor sd54 and referenced cutting issues w/the dealer he said he'd equip it w/high lift blades and tilt the deck down a tiny bit at the rear. He said the theory is it breaks the seal of the deck allowing air up front and better discharge. Just saying what he said. He's waiting for another shipment. He seems to be selling alot of these.
Mooch....do the high lift blades take more power than the standard ones?
https://youtu.be/igwY98KEpvc video of new model Fast Trak mowingIs this something I can check now? I've never thrown a belt, or had one shred, like some folks on this forum so I never gave it much consideration. But I don't believe there are any adjustments on the deck belt, just a spring that holds it in place.
If there's a troubleshooting procedure for the deck belt, I'd love to give it a shot.
https://youtu.be/igwY98KEpvc Better video of new model Fast Trak.Thanks. Home-made, per some instructions and ideas on lawnsite.com.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=eIIWdww0tY8Still waiting too, the holiday weekend did not allow me to reserve with the dealer this weekend.
I'll share an update on the cut I made yesterday. Six days since my last cut due to a short vacation again this time. It was long, for sure, but by no means a pasture at this point.
I measure that I was cutting at about 5 1/2 inches of length:
Or to put it another way, taking off about 2 - 2 1/2 inches:
I cleaned the deck beforehand and put the high-lift blades back on. About 1/3 of a 5-gallon bucket worth of scrap came off:
Some pics during and after pass number one:
I then raised the deck by 1/2 inch and did a second (and in some cases a third) pass across the whole lawn to try to disperse the clippings, in progress shot:
Ended up like this:
Couldn't get them to completely disappear, I was just blowing them back and forth after a while, but the stripes looked nice:
Healthy amount of deck blowout happening with the high-lift blades and the deck raised by 1/2 inch:
I always take my blower to mine when I get done mowing... Keeps buildup outta the trans fans and outta all the nooks and crannies on the deckCould I be cutting too SHORT?
It's been two days since my last cut to 3" and I went and tinkered with the mower today.
Pulled off the belt covers, wanted to check how the belt and pullies looked. It was definitely packed good with grass, but no evidence of misalignment, damage or glazing to the belt, or anything else not working right:
Awesome might be an understatement! There isn't a golf course within 50 mi of my place that wouldn't be jealous.......let alone ME!
I was proud of it yesterday! Just wish I could get it to look like that all the time without having to triple-cut it every two days!
Kindorf?
I was banging around eBay today to see what was out there for striping kits for my jd lawn tractor.
It already leaves a bit of a stripe but wanted a little more. This caught my eye and i ordered one. Looks like the guy is making them up and selling there. Reviews aren't bad. I like that its easily universal and think it might do what I want. Spent $79 more foolishly.....
Adjustable Lawn Striping Kit for Mowers John Deere Toro Cub Cadet and Others | eBay
Fwiw...years ago I played w/the discharge chute on a mower I had. I tried no chute, lifting the chute slightly, and cutting the chute so there wasn't alot of overhang beyond the deck. In my "experiment" I found that particular deck liked the chute as from the factory but lifted just a bit..Accomplished by gluing an easily removable wood block on top of the deck.
This is how I run my RSD54 with the Gator blades. lifted via bungee cord about 20 degrees or so (maybe 4" a the the end) I drop it fully to blow off sidewalks and stuff or lift a little more if away from the house and I really need it to disperse clippings as much as possible.
But the blades are dull. (Zoysia has a high silica content in the grass blade and will dull the crap out of any blade in a hurry).
There are a bunch of people making chutes like this.....here's one...
The Qwikchute Advantage
For me up here in wisconsin we have fall leaf grinding where it would also be nice.....blow the leaves to a remote area of the lawn and drop the chute for a final "grind". Then again hoping w/23 HP on tap and gator blades a few "go overs" might have them pretty much disappear. I still have my jd l tractor w/bagger too. That thing is like a giant vacume cleaner but its a dusty adventure and requires tailoring waste to the city composite pile.....2 days after an immaculant clean up the neighbors leaves all come to visit....happens every year...lol!
The Oregon Gator G5 Blades have a bit of carbide at the cutting edge (I think they sputter it on the underside of the blade) and go much longer between sharpening.
They are marketed as a mulching blade also.
I quite like them.
Right on..!I to this day do not understand how you can block off the discharge chute on a multi-bladed mower deck (Other that the Old Bolens and Troybilt units) and mulch......Well I should say mulch well. [...].
Right on..!
Yourself and <kraky> have mowing sense. The rest...?.. it's rare on these bLogs today
one gets exposed to such a degree of narcisstic dogmatic trolling. It's either one
clueless git seeking cost free Mowing 101 or a bunch of mirror obsessed lawn freaks
having a Mad Alice tea party.
Either way the thread is junk and I have tried to get Admin to block it from my read.
No answer, so far.
FWIW... I do regularly MORE on less mower than the SD or Fastrack, easily.
Either those operators whinging cannot drive or carnt Talk, to their mower dealer.
End of.
I follow certain posters. Do us all a favor and stay off this junk thread.
KK
Well, I am a homeowner and new to the LawnWorld forum and boy it didn't take long to get someone pi@@ed off. I am indeed a neophite when it comes to using a ZTR and have all of 3 hours on my machine. See, its like this: I am trying to get all happy with a new mower and would like to have the same results as my Toro Super Recycler but my RSD leaves clumps. And thats with the dealer mulch kit. So, I come here to ask what to do and are my expectations reasonable or just whacked. Dealer will work with me to change to a different model but his answer is "We can try it and see". I wonder if anyone is getting great results on a different model cutting at @ 2 inches while mulching.
I do indeed have the nicest lawn in my neighborhood. I have attended anything about turf grass that I can and enjoy my yard more than anyone. Yep, Im pretty nuts. Certified turf grass nerd. And that's OK with me. But the information I would like is if I upgrade to a Fastrak or a Fastrak SD and use a mulch kit will it perform like I would like?
I never had the intention to irritate KrashnKraka but strike one for me, my bad brother. Wish you could just drop by and let me extract all your experience so I could just be a happy content mower and enjoy a nice my nice yard.
BTW: Empire Zoysia is what I have.
Pay little heed to my 'rant' beyond noting I too can express my opinion which holds this 'conversation' come training seminar really belongs elsewhere... like that Front Porch forum I was directed to.Well, I am a homeowner and new to the LawnWorld forum and boy it didn't take long to get someone pi@@ed off. I am indeed a neophite when it comes to using a ZTR and have all of 3 hours on my machine.
Heh... I am just the one letting you know. If you are not aware of other satirical theads and postsI never had the intention to irritate KrashnKraka but strike one for me, my bad brother. Wish you could just drop by and let me extract all your experience so I could just be a happy content mower and enjoy a nice my nice yard.
mooch91: This is where I am at as well. The Raptor SD deck is different than the Fastrak. I am looking at the Fastrak as an upgrade and dealer will allow me to demo. Thinking about letting go of the "mulching issue" provided the cut looks good.
I'd make the upgrade for $1800 in a heartbeat!
What's the easiest way to post pictures to this forum?
I would be thrilled to show you my yard. Apple product though, so I'm stumped.
S.O.B.!
We CANNOT just end this 249 post thread w/a new purchase! Its....its...its just wrong!
The very LEAST you can do is fill is old Raptor SD friends in about how wonderful the fastrack is!
You Do a great job on pics Mooch.....we'll watch....we'll listen and we will now be even more envious of that nice house....beautiful lawn AND the fact the rest of us are stuck in "raptorville"!
Anyhow...let us know what we're missing so we can justify it to our honeys!
Your comments on the controls interest me. In the open my RSD seems to wander just a bit but not bad.
Where I feel I really don't quite have it is doing up close trimming near expensive things....like air conditioners, house siding....new plantings. I was ALOT more confident on my lawn tractor. It also seems like at times making higher speed maneuvers one of the tires can slow down and sort of lock up or slide too easily.
Again....for $4k still a hell of a machine.....but if these things are gone w/the fast track I would like to know. I'm pretty much retired and am seeing plenty of people in my small town battling health problems .....I'm thinking of doing some lawns for free to help out.....not wrecking something expensive has value for me. Do you see a fair gain in "accuracy"?
Another question fastrack owners.....
I see you have a lift assist spring on the deck. I would think you could dial in some help not just for your footlift but wouldn't that help the deck float a heck of alot easier too?
Is this true and does it make a practical difference?
Makes perfect sense Kraky, my thoughts were with the deeper deck and mulching. My next step is to remove the mulch kit and side discharge. I agree with you on side discharge though.
One thing I can say is the trans. are a bit smoother as it has zt3100 vs. the raptors zt2800. Not that there is a thing wrong with either. Another difference is the tires are not as wide as the Raptor54. But it's 200 lbs. heavier! Not including my fat *****! :laughing:
Man...another really good deal. Around here on a outright no trade deal the spread between a SD raptor and fastrack is $2000. I'd trade my used SD for a new fastrack in a heartbeat for 2 grand....you guys are getting treated WELL!
My dealer has a 2014 fastrak sitting on his floor. I think he would be motivated to move it. I didn't consider it d/t it having the same deck thickness as the Raptor (4.5 inch ) deck. The 2015 has a 5 inch deck and is not chain hung. Not a concern for me at all. Homeowner after all and take good care of my equipment. I would think that a chain hung deck is for more commercial application.:smile:
I have to say this at least once..."Told ya"! ;-)It's done... proud owner of a new Fastrak. Thanks for all the help many have provided in this thread. I'll keep you posted on how it goes with the Fastrak, but I'm confident it will meet my expectations.
Lesson learned: demo any mower before you buy.
S.O.B.!
We CANNOT just end this 249 post thread w/a new purchase! Its....its...its just wrong!
The very LEAST you can do is fill is old Raptor SD friends in about how wonderful the fastrack is!
You Do a great job on pics Mooch.....we'll watch....we'll listen and we will now be even more envious of that nice house....beautiful lawn AND the fact the rest of us are stuck in "raptorville"!
Anyhow...let us know what we're missing so we can justify it to our honeys!
Well I too just walked in and said the Raptor SD for me. No demo and really regret that decision.
Mulching kit installed by dealer and I'm thinking, "really poor cut with clumps everywhere - did the company ever test this thing?" A bit stunned over it. My Toro super recycler mulches and leaves a great finish cut. Sure if I let the grass grow super long it's chokes and will leave clumps. However, if I cut with the toro and follow 2days later with the Raptor SD clumps everywhere. I have the Raptor SD sitting in the shop and just wish I never bought it. ;(
Now let's review something, I think that a ZTR mower
is really for guys who can cut quickly, blow driveway and sidewalk, load up and hit the next yard. It's just not for the guy who wants a manicured perfect beautiful yard. Which is completely fine. Surely not slamming any ZTR. Think my application is not realistic for my expectations.
Showed my dealer pictures of my yard and told him about what grass I had and that I mulched it weekly. I just wish he would have said, "yeah, that mower will not do that, it's a ZTR. You want ......."
School of hard knocks...
I too have a choice to upgrade to a fastrak but just not sure that it will cut without clumps. Thoughts?
One important thing to consider is the Blade Tip Speed is much faster on the Fast Track.Well I too just walked in and said the Raptor SD for me. No demo and really regret that decision.
Mulching kit installed by dealer and I'm thinking, "really poor cut with clumps everywhere - did the company ever test this thing?" A bit stunned over it. My Toro super recycler mulches and leaves a great finish cut. Sure if I let the grass grow super long it's chokes and will leave clumps. However, if I cut with the toro and follow 2days later with the Raptor SD clumps everywhere. I have the Raptor SD sitting in the shop and just wish I never bought it. ;(
Now let's review something, I think that a ZTR mower
is really for guys who can cut quickly, blow driveway and sidewalk, load up and hit the next yard. It's just not for the guy who wants a manicured perfect beautiful yard. Which is completely fine. Surely not slamming any ZTR. Think my application is not realistic for my expectations.
Showed my dealer pictures of my yard and told him about what grass I had and that I mulched it weekly. I just wish he would have said, "yeah, that mower will not do that, it's a ZTR. You want ......."
School of hard knocks...
I too have a choice to upgrade to a fastrak but just not sure that it will cut without clumps. Thoughts?
Clumps disappeared with trading my Raptor SD in for the Fastrak SD. Leaves a great cut. Love it.
View attachment 27155View attachment 27156
One important thing to consider is the Blade Tip Speed is much faster on the Fast Track.
I thought about that right after I made that post...I knew the standard Raptor was roughly 16.000..I stand corrected.the blade speed is the same on the raptor sd and fastrak and fastrak sd. the standard raptor is a little bit slower.
raptor sd:
48": 18,600 fpm
54": 18,900 fpm
60": 18,400 fpm
fastrak:
48": 18,600 fpm
54": 18,910 fpm
60": 18,410 fpm
I thought about that right after I made that post...I knew the standard Raptor was roughly 16.000..I stand corrected.
the blade speed is the same on the raptor sd and fastrak and fastrak sd. the standard raptor is a little bit slower.
raptor sd:
48": 18,600 fpm
54": 18,900 fpm
60": 18,400 fpm
fastrak:
48": 18,600 fpm
54": 18,910 fpm
60": 18,410 fpm
Congrats on the new mower and that's a beautiful yard you have there..I added Flex Forks to mine and a set of Gator Blades...improved upon what is already a great machine.... enjoy that thing I sure do mine as I'm about to go saddle up now... Lol
I totally agree about subtle changes to the deck have drastic consequences when it comes to deck performance/ buildup ext...and I think the biggest problem with these Raptors and Raptor SD's is the deck is just to Shallow...I can't imagine what it would be like trying to mulch with one....JMO.I think w/all that's going on under a deck even subtle differences make big changes. A little lip here...a toe bar discharge there...big changes.
I got a little lesson this weekend on my sd54 w/gator blades. On my lawn which is weed free I get no under deck build up. After finishing my lawn I helped my neighbor who's mower is in the shop. He has lots of leafy weeds. I could hear the deck getting louder and louder as I mowed. By the time I was done I had to scrape out alot of build up. Guessing the gator blades hammering the watery leafy stuff turned it into glue!
Kinda made me glad I spend a little money on the tru-green applications!