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Recently got a new Toro TimeCutter MX 5475 which seems to be working great after having used it just 3 times to mow my large yard

Instructions say to change the oil after first 5 hours of use so just curious is any body know the Wix oil filer part number for Toro 136-7848

Also, does anybody happen to know if Toro offers an oil drain hose to screw in to the block? There appears to be a port so I'd like the convenience of having a hose screwed in there so I can take the plug off the end of the hose when draining the oil.

I found a Oil Drain Hose Asm - Toro Part Number: 117-1261 at

Think this would work for my application?
I suppose I could make it work by using adpaters, but I don't know the thread size in the block yet...

Doing a little searching and the Wix website shows that the Wix part number is WL10239

And, Orielly's Auto Parts can order them in which is what I did so I would not have to pay for shipping ?

I have a Timecutter also. but mine has vthe Kawasaki engine, so I can't help ya.

Yeah, I may get that hose I posted the link to anyway and if the threads don't match I'll go to the hardware store and get some adapters

I also have a suction pump setup that would work too.

I'm just looking for an easier way than what they show in the user manual since draining the oil should be simplified.

Well, after scoping out some Utube vids, there is a hose already on this mower fo draining d oil so it's all good up in the hood.

So far, this is a really comfortable mower with plenty of power and it cuts good too.

I've used it three times for a total of about 5 hours so I'm draining the oil now overnight to get a good drain

Tomorrow I'll be putting in Amsoil 10W30 Commercial Grade Synthetic small engine oil along with a Wix oil filter with an aftermarket magnet on the outside of the filter

Gotta take care of the old lawn mower ya know

Well, I hope I purchased the correct Wix filter for mine because I got the Wix 51394. This is the same filter that is used on the Kawasaki engines and I was told they aere the same for the Toro V-twin.

Not sure if that would work but you could always see if a cross reference chart shows the 2 part numbers are interchangeable.

I recently did my first oil change on mine and I know for sure that Wix 10239 works on the Toro engine.

I even got one of those oil filter magnets to put on the end of the filter for super high performance

Drain port sizes are standard so any aftermarket drain extended will work
If you have a Toro branded engine the it might be metric not Unified .

As for the filter, it is a lawnmower not a Nascar top fuler.
What is far more important is changing the oil every season, the filter is almost irrevelent .
FWIW I keep 4 filters in imperial threads and 2 metics and one of them goes on every mower that gets serviced regardless of what was originally fitted.
The determining factor is the room to get it in & out .
With the number of hours that mowers are used , chemical break down of the oil sitting there doing nothing is the biggest determinant of engine wear

Actually, I forgot to post that the Toro engine already has it's own drain hose built in

I saw it and didn't realize it was an oil drain hose until after watching a few reviews on this mower on Utubes

As for the filter, it is a lawnmower not a Nascar top fuler.

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Well, I'm treating mine as though it's high performance machinery so I'll be running synthetic oil, wix filers (work well with synthetic and has the best media), and I'll be looking to switch the transmission lubrication over to synthetic next summer since synthetic lubricants perform so much better than conventional.

My goal is to have this mower last a really long time and perform well.

The oil filter magnet just helps keep any fine metal from remaining in the engine and instead settles in the oil filter which of eliminated from the engine when a new filter is installed. I run this on all my vehicles and it's just something added for a little extra benefit.

If you don't change the oil every season then all of your work and money will be wasted .
Eating high protien suppliments and vitamin tablets , all good things will not make you live one day longer.
Putting avgas in your car won't make it run any better.

However it is your mower so if traveling down this path makes you FEEL happier then please do it.
But check the oil level like a hawk
Synthetics leak a lot more than std oil , both out the seals and past the rings
However being ashless you do not see the puff of white smoke every time you start the engine till the day the engine stops all by itself.

Yes, I'm aware that the oil should be changed each season and the oil level should be checked before you mow each time. That's a given...

Synthetics don't cause leaks on new engines. A lot of equipment, especially in the auto industry come from the factory with Synthetics. On old stuff, yes it can cause issues.

And, I only run fuel that has no moonshine (ethanol) even though Toro's hand book claims it's OK to use gas that has moonshine in it. I don't drink-N-drive ? cause I don't wanna have a lanw mower accident and hit another mower since my lawn mower liability insurance coverage isn't that good. (I'm just going to be in my own yard)

Hey guys,

On the Toro Timecutter MX 5475... is the Hydrostatic Transmission serviceable in terms of changing the tranny fluid?.

The owner's manual says nothing about it so maybe it's a "sealed" system they only want the Toro dealer to work on.

I know it has lubrication in there so I'd like to change it...

I was just looking under the mower and there does not appear to be any drain plugs on the bottom at all.

But, there does appear to be a pug on top on each transmission

Maybe the way the dealer services each tranny is to remove the plug on top and sticks a hose down in there and sucks the old fluid out and then puts new fluid in and puts the plug back.

Well, I found a video on this and apparently the same company makes these Hydrostatic Transmissions and some of the newer ones do not have filters or drain plugs

So, I have an electric pump for lubricants and before Long I'm going to remove the plug on top and see if I can get a hose to go all the way down to the bottom to be able to pump out all the oil.

The guy in the video said it takes about 1.5 quarts but I'll measure how much comes out and put back the same amount Here's the video:

Here's an interesting video about how to Make A Sealed Unit Serviceable:

If you want to replace all of the oil then it is take the tranny out remove fill plug then tip upside down.
Fitting a drain plug is not uncommon but considering the chances of swarf ending up in the box not a good idea IMHO unless the box is split at the time
Most of the filters are magnetic and a magnet does not pull out alloy chips .

Yeah, I'm not going to disassemble the back end of the mower just to take out the transmission housing to be able to turn them upside down to drain the oil. Just thinking about how goofy it is to have to do that is irritating.

The guy in the video says he found the schematics for his particular transmission housings and determined putting the hole right in the middle would not hurt anything as long as he did not drill all the way thru where the drill bit went up in side.

As he was drilling slowly, as soon as the oil started coming out he stopped drilling so the bit didn't go all the way thru. Then he was able to tap some threads into the housing and he did so as the oil was still running out.

Once done, he poured new oil in and let it flow out to help flush any shards from the cutting out to make sure none of the little pieces remained in the case.

There are shops out there that rebuild these transmissions and this would be a great idea for them to add drain plugs when they have the housing open. Of course they may not want to do that since changing the oil frequently helps the trannys last a lot longer.

Anyway there are supposed to be tags on these transmissions to tell you what model it is so I'll get that info off of mine to see if I can obtain a copy of the schematics to make sure the plug can go right in the middle like the guy did on his in the video.

He was saying on his, right where he was putting the hole there was a filter on the inside and it would not be damaged as long as he isn't pushing the drill bit all the way inside.

Once I get the plug installed... I'm going to run Amsoil 20W-50 Synthetic Hydrostatic Transmission Fluid which should be some good stuff!

Monkey see
Monkey do
Monkey get big repair bill
It is a lot harder to do than you think
And transmissions are made in sealed factory to exclude dust because they are so vunerabe to wear
So you saw it on You tube
When have you seen a you tube video say
DO not do what I posted last year as now my tranny is beyond repair & I have an $ 1800 replacement bill.

But it is your mower and your money so go ahead .

Yeah, this ain't rocket science you know. It's a simple hole to be drilled slowly for the purposes of easily being able to change the oil. It's them city slickers that'll be paying others to fix their equipmemt.

The shards from drilling will be caught in the oil coming out and that's when I'll cut the threads is while the oil is still coming out.

It's a great idea that should have been done by the manufacturer... but of course they want to make money repairing these units or selling people an entire new mower.

I went out to mow today and it was running great until after about 30 minutes when it got so hot that the tranny on the right side quit functioning all together. I had to turn the mower off and wait about 30 to 40 minutes before I could drive it to my shop. (it runs great when it's cold, malfunctions once it gets hot)

The items I need to drill, tap, and plug the hole will be in this week (I wanted brand new stuff for this) and soon I'll be one happy monkey who just changed the oil and put in all new Amsoil 20W-50 Synthetic Hydrostatic Transmission Fluid and back up and running smooth!

So, no need to worry about me my friend...

bertsmobile1 said:

When have you seen a you tube video say
DO not do what I posted last year as now my tranny is beyond repair & I have an $ 1800 replacement bill.

Click to expand...

The guy in the video bought his mower for $100 and the mower is still ruining great after he put new oil in the tranny on each side.

I feel sorry for the guys that take their trannys out just to drain them.

Just installed the drain plugs on both sides this afternoon and mowed the yard, and WOW what a difference using Amsoil 20W-50 Synthetic Hydrostatic Transmission Fluid makes!

The trannys are nice and quite, they are more responsive so changing the fluid definitely fixed my issue.

The problem I was having was after mowing for about 30 minutes, the trannys literally quit pulling and were making a terrible whining sound. This happened twice when the mower got warmed up and I had to leave it in the yard for 30 to 45 minutes for it to cool down and then I could move it again.

Apparently the fluid that came in my mower oiriginally has degraded and could not longer take the heat. I just bought my mower brand new in June of 2020

So, rather than going thru the foolishness of taking the trannys out of the mower just to be able to drain the fluid and be able to put in new fluid... like the guy in the video I posted above... I just drilled a couple of holes, cut some threads and install plugs.

Now, I'll be able to service my tranny easily by removing the drain lugs to drain it... which is how it should have come from the factory. Obviously by making the tranny "non-serviceable" they hope to make some money off of people or even sell them a new mower!

Anyway, it was an easy fix and I'm back in bidness!

KM Richards said:

Just installed the drain plugs on both sides this afternoon and mowed the yard, and WOW what a difference using Amsoil 20W-50 Synthetic Hydrostatic Transmission Fluid makes! View attachment 67107

The trannys are nice and quite, they are more responsive so changing the fluid definitely fixed my issue.

The problem I was having was after mowing for about 30 minutes, the trannys literally quit pulling and were making a terrible whining sound. This happened twice when the mower got warmed up and I had to leave it in the yard for 30 to 45 minutes for it to cool down and then I could move it again.

Apparently the fluid that came in my mower oiriginally has degraded and could not longer take the heat. I just bought my mower brand new in June of 2020

So, rather than going thru the foolishness of taking the trannys out of the mower just to be able to drain the fluid and be able to put in new fluid... like the guy in the video I posted above... I just drilled a couple of holes, cut some threads and install plugs.

Now, I'll be able to service my tranny easily by removing the drain lugs to drain it... which is how it should have come from the factory. Obviously by making the tranny "non-serviceable" they hope to make some money off of people or even sell them a new mower!

Anyway, it was an easy fix and I'm back in bidness!
View attachment 67108

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These days, very few if any shops, will rebuild a hydro pump or transaxle. I have done it a few times in the past, and is a labor intensive undertaking. It is remove and replace. Just like few, if any shops will rebuild engines (same labor issue).

In my reading up on all this, I found several individuals out there that do lawn mower repair that you can ship your trannys to and they'll rebuild them considerably cheaper than buying new ones.

Besides, a lot of the guys that use their mowers commercially get long time service out of them if they use synthetic motor oil and tranny oil which is what I'm doing.

The only remaining issue I'm experiencing with my mower is... occasionally something to do with the safety seat switch acts up and when I start the mower and bring the levers in to start driving it it kills the engine.... but it only does it ever so often and not frequently.

If it ever becomes a big problem I'll have to figure out a way to bypass this system which I don't need anyway being a grown adult knowing to turn the blades off before getting off the mower all all.

KM Richards said:

In my reading up on all this, I found several individuals out there that do lawn mower repair that you can ship your trannys to and they'll rebuild them considerably cheaper than buying new ones.

Besides, a lot of the guys that use their mowers commercially get long time service out of them if they use synthetic motor oil and tranny oil which is what I'm doing.

The only remaining issue I'm experiencing with my mower is... occasionally something to do with the safety seat switch acts up and when I start the mower and bring the levers in to start driving it it kills the engine.... but it only does it ever so often and not frequently.

If it ever becomes a big problem I'll have to figure out a way to bypass this system which I don't need anyway being a grown adult knowing to turn the blades off before getting off the mower all all.

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Sure, there are shops that specialize in rebuilding hydros, transaxles, engines, starters, alternators, and the list goes on.

If a person is willing to physically remove the hydro, transaxle, engine, etc., and ship it, wait, and the install it again, that is an option. I would say very few people are willing to do that. Most of my customers are lucky if they will remove a spark plug, much less a transaxle. Don’t get me wrong, I love my customers, I am simply saying people don’t want to get involved and know very little mechanic wise these days.

Many hydros and transaxles go hundreds and hundreds of hours of operation, often with little to no maintenance.

I run a one person small engine repair shop, and am very busy. If you were in my shoes, I doubt you would want to deal with rebuilding engines and transaxles, and hydros when the phone is ringing off the hook, and the floor needs to be swept. If business was lean and I needed the work, I would do what it takes. As it is, the demand for outdoor power equipment is very steady for me year around. The support I have received locally by my customers is truly appreciated, and they are grateful for my skills and solid service.

Tiger Small Engine said:

Many hydros and transaxles go hundreds and hundreds of hours of operation, often with little to no maintenance.

Click to expand...

Well, mine was brand new in June of 202 when I bought it... and the fluid in the trannys played out after about 3 mowing seasons and I am only using mine to mow my yard (no commercial use). And with the drought we had this year, the grass died and I didn't mow all summer long, just a few times in the spring,

So mine doesn't hall all that many hours (it doesn't have an hour counter). It's pretty sad that this happened and the fluid didn't last longer. So, I'm glad I found that video!

The Amsoil 20W-50 Synthetic Hydrostatic Transmission Fluid I'm using now is designed to last up to 3 times longer than the manufacture's recommended changing intervals... whenever that is. The User Manual for my mower does not say anything about changing the tranny fluid

Since Amsoil make a superior product, I should be able to go 2 years between tranny fluid changes. But, I'll know if the fluid is going bad cause it was whining a lot before and the whining got worse the longer I mowed,

So once I hear that I'll know it's time to change the oil... but with using the Amsoil I doubt it'll degrade anytime soon so I'll just change it every couple of years.

KM Richards said:

In my reading up on all this, I found several individuals out there that do lawn mower repair that you can ship your trannys to and they'll rebuild them considerably cheaper than buying new ones.

Besides, a lot of the guys that use their mowers commercially get long time service out of them if they use synthetic motor oil and tranny oil which is what I'm doing.

The only remaining issue I'm experiencing with my mower is... occasionally something to do with the safety seat switch acts up and when I start the mower and bring the levers in to start driving it it kills the engine.... but it only does it ever so often and not frequently.

If it ever becomes a big problem I'll have to figure out a way to bypass this system which I don't need anyway being a grown adult knowing to turn the blades off before getting off the mower all all.

Click to expand...

Yep,
A bod just 20 minutes drive away machines the valve plate & piston chest , reassembles with new seals & filters and purges the units for $ 400 to $ 600 ( AUS )
The wholesale price of a drop in pump / motor unit starts at $ 800 so he gets a lot of work from me
I did not ask for any trade discount just that he warrants them for 12 months which he will do for me .
Customer gets his invoice & I get a removal & replace fee
Works for me .