Question RE matching up different engine pieces for a Troy built econo horse.

[Motormender]

Hello to the group!

I am new here and glad I found you all

The info on the motor; H60-75505R ser#0022D. This was the original motor and ran great until it threw a rod after 30 years so I found a brand new in box short block model SBH-6216A ser#2070F.

There were a few minor differences in short blocks that required me to find a new flywheel/magneto assy. I scrounged them at a local mower grave yard. The Flywheel # is 30555. It has a ring gear for a starter and a replaceable magnet assy. I am not sure if I used the original magneto assy or the one that came with the flywheel.

First, the problem; when I put the whole thing back together the first time it ran great. But after a while it started running very rich. I adjusted float and addressed things as if it was a fuel issue. That did not help at all. I messed around with it for quite a while and still got my garden in. But I resolved to fix it this spring. After thinking it through over the winter, I thought it may be ignition related and a significant amount of misses may suck too much fuel and seem like a carb issue. I took it apart again and found the insulation on the high tension wire had cracked and fallen off in a couple spots and the wire was probably arcing to the block which explained the whole thing.. So a new coil would fix it right?? I installed it and the motor fired right up and I got half the garden tilled and ran out of gas. Refilled and it hasn't really run right since. In fact it really won't start. It tries to catch with starting fluid but sounds like it is firing on the intake stroke through the carb. More like a popping sound through the carb. Same for gas. Clean plug, new points, condenser and a genuine coil. I used a dial indicator with head removed to time it and I am sure the points are as dead on as possible. I have the service manual. As far as I can tell, I have set up the motor as accurately as possible to allow it to fire right up but it simply won't catch.

Now the questions;
1. Why did it run really good and then stop? This is a real puzzler as I could understand if it just didn't stat at all..
2. What is the possibility of the different flywheel magnet not being aligned for the crankshaft and coil relationship and spark simply being off? I could imagine that they are mated and specific to the motor?
3. The magnet doesn't seem to be really strong which could induce a weak spark so does anyone know if new ones are available?

I am kind of out of ideas so I am asking the experts here. Hopefully someone has the answers. I would hate to pay the shop rate for this as I have never taken my equipment to the shop.


Hopefully someone sees this and has the answer to my problem.

Thanks!!

 

[Motormender]

Hello to the group!

I am new here and glad I found you all

The info on the motor; H60-75505R ser#0022D. This was the original motor and ran great until it threw a rod after 30 years so I found a brand new in box short block model SBH-6216A ser#2070F.

There were a few minor differences in short blocks that required me to find a new flywheel/magneto assy. I scrounged them at a local mower grave yard. The Flywheel # is 30555. It has a ring gear for a starter and a replaceable magnet assy. I am not sure if I used the original magneto assy or the one that came with the flywheel.

First, the problem; when I put the whole thing back together the first time it ran great. But after a while it started running very rich. I adjusted float and addressed things as if it was a fuel issue. That did not help at all. I messed around with it for quite a while and still got my garden in. But I resolved to fix it this spring. After thinking it through over the winter, I thought it may be ignition related and a significant amount of misses may suck too much fuel and seem like a carb issue. I took it apart again and found the insulation on the high tension wire had cracked and fallen off in a couple spots and the wire was probably arcing to the block which explained the whole thing.. So a new coil would fix it right?? I installed it and the motor fired right up and I got half the garden tilled and ran out of gas. Refilled and it hasn't really run right since. In fact it really won't start. It tries to catch with starting fluid but sounds like it is firing on the intake stroke through the carb. More like a popping sound through the carb. Same for gas. Clean plug, new points, condenser and a genuine coil. I used a dial indicator with head removed to time it and I am sure the points are as dead on as possible. I have the service manual. As far as I can tell, I have set up the motor as accurately as possible to allow it to fire right up but it simply won't catch.

Now the questions;
1. Why did it run really good and then stop? This is a real puzzler as I could understand if it just didn't stat at all..
2. What is the possibility of the different flywheel magnet not being aligned for the crankshaft and coil relationship and spark simply being off? I could imagine that they are mated and specific to the motor?
3. The magnet doesn't seem to be really strong which could induce a weak spark so does anyone know if new ones are available?

I am kind of out of ideas so I am asking the experts here. Hopefully someone has the answers. I would hate to pay the shop rate for this as I have never taken my equipment to the shop.


Hopefully someone sees this and has the answer to my problem.

Thanks!!

 

[Motormender]

Here is a follow up question,:confused2:
Does anyone know if there are different magnet/shaft key locations on flywheels depending on the Motor? I mean just because it fits, does it mean it will work? That would explain why it wants to catch but won't, because the magnet is located just off enough..
I have spoken to several parts houses and they cannot tell me which flywheel to use with this short block because it is a "part number" and not an engine number.

 

[Rivets]

If it ran good for a while I would say you did everything right from the start. If it were me I would start by checking to see if the magneto or points came loose. Yes, I know this means pulling the head and flywheel, but from your description I’m thinking the timing might have changed or the flywheel key sheared.

 

[Motormender]

Hi Rivets!
Thanks for that advice.
I have had it apart so many times now it's a matter of minutes to do.
I asked about the flywheel maybe being the wrong part. I found the original application motor number for the short block. It is an H60-75389 up to spec "P"
I am trying to find the correct flywheel number for it but I have also found the 30555 flywheel in a different motor application. I called parts places to see if the magnet is available to replace as this one has screws holding it in. Looks factory.

All places are closed now so I will pick it up again tomorro to see what flywheel goes with the block.

Let ya know what I find.

 

[bertsmobile1]

All H60 flywheels will work with any H60 block.
The difference comes in the last 5 numbers which code for the size & shape of the blower housing for example, type of starter etc etc etc.
I am with Rivets.
You got it right but not tight the first time.
However you can try to get it to run with some goop down the carb.
If it fires up then the carb is the problem.

Quick & dirty test.
Fires with fuel down the plug hole = timing is good
Fires with fuel down the carb throat = valves are OK